ejparrott
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Posts posted by ejparrott
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Hoses have arrived now, hoping to do the job on Sunday and will update
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No update yet, still waiting on the hoses. I know David was the organiser for Saturday's show though, so hopefully I'll see them soon
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I've sent the lengths off to David, just waiting to hear back from him. The discussion we had was looking at putting a banjo bolt straight into the Master cylinder, 3/8" UNF, down to the Slave with a male/male to bring the pipe out past the bleed nipple above, and a 90 degree swivel union end, so nice and easy to assemble, all in the larger 1/4" Pipe. To make life easier, I'm also looking at the remote bleed style Ralph had, with a metre of pipe bringing the nipple up the bulkhead. This is in the smaller cheaper brake line as it's only a breather, and it's one less job I have to struggle with on my own.
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I've had a good chat with David at Llama 4x4 this morning, he can absolutely do what I want, with a custom full length hose from Master (with Banjo) to slave (with MM adapter and swivel union) and do a remote bleed pipe foe me too. Just need to go and measure what lengths I want, and double check the threads I've got on my master and slave.
Will keep you updated
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15 hours ago, western said:
David at Llama made me some flexi braided clutch hoses,
Just read back through the post Ralph, Llama does look like a good option. Might actually move my bleed nipple up too, getting under to bleed it isn't a job I much like doing. There was a kit for the Series to have a remote bleeder, but it's all rigid pipe and I didn't like that. More to investigate! My 109 hydraulics have failed, and my 88 is about to get a full rebuild, so that will get new hydraulics, and in the process I'd like to fit it with a one piece flexi.
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23 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Braided TFE from Think Automotive all the way on mine, no rigid pipes at all on the truck. You want -4 size hose, I got black PVC coated as it doesn't absorb mud like the bare braided ones;
Thanks Fridge, exactly the kind of thing I've been thinking of, not a name I recognise, will have a look at their site later
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I think the Goodrich hoses Merlin list are just the 8" or so length standard ones, I've been trying to make sense of it but of course being the weekend nobody to ask.
Gwyn Lewis list hoses, and advertise that they're made by Llama, so my first port of call may have been correct anyway. Hopefully will find out tomorrow
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That's another possibility thanks!
Years ago trying to sort a friends TD5 Disco clutch we came across someone listing full vehicle replacement kits, braided lines as complete replacements for the clutch lines and all the brake lines, can't find them now.
The other thought is of course early 90/110 had the same imperial master and slave as the Series 3, so would probably swap over. I quite like the idea of a banjo fitting on the Master too, if not both ends
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Already emailed David at Llama, but it's Saturday so won't get a reply until Monday, so research meanwhile.
Hydraulics died on my 109, so replacement slave, master and flexi purchased, the top steel is of course seized in the adapter, and the flexi is seized on the lower pipe. I've always hated the locations of the Series pipes, so with the 88's rebuild imminent, I'm thinking sod it I'm going to replace the whole lot from master to slave with one new flexi. I'm sure I've seen them listed somewhere in the past, but I can't now find them. Any help? I'm sure the same source was listing complete replacement braided brake lines too.
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I've got about 1.5" clearance, slider at the front, no gaitor
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I think my 109 has the 200 inlet manifold instead of the 300, been so long since I fitted it I can't remember
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I get the impression it's the motor, but as Fridge says, wire direct to test
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TEC make decent inexpensive motors
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I'm building my own stainless exhaust...might have a few more welds in it than a pucka stainless mandrel bent in one exhaust, but it won't be costing me a grand!
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Watch out with centre drills, their favourite hobby is snapping the end off when you least want them to. On all the CNC machines I use spotting drills instead, unless I am going to put a shaft on a cente in which case you have to use a centre drill. Spot drills are 90 degree and have no skinn pilot, they are much stronger.
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Dixon type used to be my favourite, but then I got my Schaublin. That came with a multifix which at first at was quite keen to move on. However after using it for a while, I've actually grown to prefer it to the Dixon on my Boxford, and am now thinking about changing out that one instead. Rotagrip stock genuine multifix and chinese copies.
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I would ask the question about getting 3 phase installed, you may be pleasently surprised
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I'm a Talyllyn Volunteer, as well as being a Model Engineer.
There was a number of vehicles listed on the traction pages on Facebook a few days ago. There's a also a holiday camp on one of the railways using a Toad as a chalet. Can't remember where right this minute
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I've been thinking about this, need to sketch some things.
To make it work at all I think I will need to employ some L shaped links, so it can reach out in front of the pivot and the front of the cupboard when open. I think there needs to be a pair to get it to open parallel, and I think the upper most link must be pivoted to the door at a point just below middle. Then, when the door is raised, the door will be lifted above the opening, because the pviot is below centre....I think! I believe it it were central it would be in line with, and if it were above then it wouldn't lift high enough.
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On 3/25/2019 at 4:50 PM, zardos said:
5mm is very little for any hardware at the top so any mounting would have to be on the sides (if enough space).
A parallelogram type side pivot would give you the required lift but will push the door out by a minimum of half the door height before bringing it back in (so you would need a minimum of around 545mm clear in front of the door to open)You are not wrong, its a tall order, but mounting on the sides is no problem at all within reason.
Keeping clearance of 550mm in front of it is probably not an issue..keeping 1500 for a pair of side hung doors, can't see that happening! Bi fold doors...not sure if I can get everything all tied in nice...lots of things to thing about, and also still looking at having 750mm clear in front.
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6 hours ago, mickeyw said:
This YouTuber has modelled some ingenious mechanisms on CAD. You might find something useful in his video collection.
Couldn't find anything which exactly replicated what I am hoping to achieve, although he has a table which opens out almost exactly in the way I think I need to create.
What he did have was this....intreguing....
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Ok, so this is what I'm trying to do. I have a cupboard that has an opening of 1090mm. What I would like is a vertically opening door that comes up to leave a minimum clearance under of 1085mm, preferably the full 1090mm, to clear the contents of the cupboard sliding in and out. By having a vertically opening door I hope I can use more of the works floor space, instead of having to keep space clear as I would for normal side opening doors.
Gas struts would be nice, make lifting a bit easier, but for now at any rate the thing I can't work out is the mechanism!
Cheers
TD4 rear crank seal leak
in Freelander Forum
Posted
Did my clutch this weekend, had a weep of oil in the telltale and at 125k with no evidence of a clutch change being done we decided it was prudent to do the lot. Turns out slave was well on it's way out and the DMF was just about knackered, so good call.
The rear crank seal wasn't actually leaking that much but I was in there so lets do it now we've got it, and I've made a pigs ear of it by the looks of it, leaking more now than before. It's a genuine seal, we used the plastic fitting guide that came with it, the crank was clean and damage free, but it's flooding out now. What have I done wrong? The WSM skates over it, Haynes like so many things basically says send it to a specialist. I've done TDi rear crank seals several times without issue, so I don't quite understand it