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ejparrott last won the day on November 25 2016

ejparrott had the most liked content!

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About ejparrott

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  1. Transmission mounts

    Interesting...what do we think then, go for a single central mount rubber for the LT77? Changing it won't be much issue if it does fail in time...undo bolts, jack under gearbox, drop crossmember and away you go. I wasn't going to bother with modifying the chassis for the original LT77 chassis mounts....been thinking about it since the chassis arrived and as it's bare steel I am tempted to drill and tube the chassis to suit...just in case... A single mount on the (customized) removable gearbox crossmember would be similarly easy to modify, and if I change my mind at any point, a new new crossmember isn't the end of the world!
  2. Transmission mounts

    Ever LR to my knowledge from 1948 up to discovery 200TDi had two rubber mounts for engine and two for gearbox, and the Defender 200 even kept that up. My knowledge gets a bit weak then but as far as I'm aware 300's, TD5 and later all reverted to the same 4 mounts. So. Why did the Discovery have two mounts for the engine and only one for the gearbox? Whats the benefit of having 3 mounts instead of 4? Is there one? Is it because of the funky Disco engine mounts that weren't used on anything else? Reason for asking, fitting the LT77 into my 88". The rebuild is imminent, the chassis has now arrived from Richards, and even nearly right. I've some magnifications to make to it and send it for galvanizing, but being August I'll probably wait until next year now to start the work. Anyway, when I did my 109 I made brackets to fit it to the original Series mountings on the crossmember. The thought was floating around, why do I need to fit 2 mounts, why couldn't I fit just one? I do know at least one person has fitted it with just 1 mount, I don't know how it behaves though. Is it something to be thought about, or is it not likely to work long term? Cheers all
  3. Refurbing hydraulic cylinder journals

    Our digger man recently had the same thing done on his big digger, insitu re-boring of the worn hole, then sleeve
  4. Diff Dilemma

    If you hadn't already come to an agreement, I'd have said upgrade to a Salisbury
  5. LED trailer indicators and dash tell-tale

    I fitted LED lights on my 6x4 some time ago, seemed I was having to change bulbs or rewire it every time I (rarely) used it before...now it works every time. My SIII doesn't have a telltale light though, I fitted a warning beeper in the rear light cluster.....then wrapped it in a rag it was so loud! This never seemed to worry about the difference between the filament bulbs and the LED's. Been a long time now and I don't remember where stuff came from...the beeper was probably eBay, the light's most likely from Trailers and Towing, also eBay....use eBay a lot as I get cashback
  6. What SIII Chassis reinforcement if any?

    I found it remarkably difficult to find pictures of Stage 1 V8 chassis on the internet, however a helpful chap on the Series farcebook group sent me this picture of his. You can see the 2 exhausts of the V8 running through. The outrigger sort of middle to top right of photo, that it the bulkhead outrigger, underneath it you can see the flywheel cross member which is bolted in. On the chassis rail at the left of the photo you can see 3 bolt heads, these are the gearbox mounts which are Defender/disco style and there is no cross member there. My 109 has 200TDi/LT77/LT230 and I didn't swap to the boingy gearbox mounts, I maintained the removable gearbox cross member of my military/1-ton chassis, and the Series 3 flywheel cross member. The Series 3 flywheel cross member causes problems with a TDi in the standard place as the wading plug and timing hole end up directly above the cross member. By having the V8 cross member instead, which I've ordered for the new chassis for my 88, this is further back and will keep clear of the hole. Furthermore if for some reason I ever decide to put a 2286 and original 4-speed transmission back in, the Stage 1 cross member will still not interfere with the original style engine or gearbox. Additionally being bolt in I can modify and build new as many times as I want without affecting the galv of the chassis! All that being said, I don't know what effect moving your engine forward 4" will have to the whole thing anyway. I've just been and measured mine which is LT77 not R380, but if that was moved forward 4" then the gearbox drain and filter would be right over the cross member, not a lot of use for doing oil changes. That alone convinces me moving the engine forward is more trouble than it's worth, for an LT77, I don't know where the drain is on an R380. Going out and measuring for you, I've just realised the Stage 1 cross member will give me a further benefit by being in just the right place to give me a mounting point for my LT230 conversion to use the red and yellow levers for HiLo and Difflock, definnitly a productive morning.
  7. What SIII Chassis reinforcement if any?

    I don't think it's particularly good or bad either way. Personally I think it's just more difficult to achieve than a stage 1 type, what with all the effort of drilling the chassis in the right places an welding in crush tubes
  8. What SIII Chassis reinforcement if any?

    Sounds like you're copying the boingy gearbox cross member. The Stage 1 V8 bolts in under the chassis exactly as the military gearbox cross member does. There's a picture here : http://www.defendersource.com/forum/f8/lhd-1982-109-3-5v8-low-mileage-34414.html of the stage 1 V8 cross member. It's mounted inline with the bulkhead outrigger using ears welded to them and under the chassis
  9. What SIII Chassis reinforcement if any?

    I think there's some confusion. To the best of my knowledge the military only had the bolt in GEARBOX cross member, that's certainly what my mil/1-ton chassis has. The Stage 1 V8 had a bolt in FLYWHEEL cross member., but no GEARBOX cross member. The Stage 1 gearbox appears to be mounted the same as boingys.
  10. What SIII Chassis reinforcement if any?

    If I were you, get a Stage 1 V8 cross member for under the flywheel. It's a touch further back - inline with the bulkhead outriggers - and is also bolt in. I've just ordered one for my 88" chassis
  11. Share your LR Plan(s) for 2017

    Get the 88 rebuilt on the new chassis I ordered last week Get the disco second row seats installed in The 109 and re visit the mounting of the front seats ...be surprised if either get done tbh!
  12. I got fed up up with lift pumps only lasting about 14 months, so did away with altogether and fitted one of these in my 200TDi Series 3 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151686761797?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
  13. 4.0 GEMS engine swap

    I always try to avoid custom made parts if I can, I chose my disc brake kit because it uses Defender parts
  14. What SIII Chassis reinforcement if any?

    Stage 1 V8 also has a removable flywheel housing crossmember, so that could easily be replaced if damaged
  15. Rustoleum

    If you are on Facebook you can look up the Buzzweld group and Craig Jones and all is there to see, there is also a website but I've not looked at it. Testing is as basic as it gets....a range of kwality coatings have been applied as directed by the manufacturers/old wives tales and left out to weather. Dates are noted, and signs of rust formation are noted alongside. Grease and oil failed within the first week, a bunch of other coatings failed to do what the manufacturers stated, but interestingly Screwfix own trade red oxide primer was one of the best performers.