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ejparrott last won the day on November 25 2016

ejparrott had the most liked content!

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About ejparrott

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    Land Rovers
    Models Engineering

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  1. I'm building my own stainless exhaust...might have a few more welds in it than a pucka stainless mandrel bent in one exhaust, but it won't be costing me a grand!
  2. Watch out with centre drills, their favourite hobby is snapping the end off when you least want them to. On all the CNC machines I use spotting drills instead, unless I am going to put a shaft on a cente in which case you have to use a centre drill. Spot drills are 90 degree and have no skinn pilot, they are much stronger.
  3. Dixon type used to be my favourite, but then I got my Schaublin. That came with a multifix which at first at was quite keen to move on. However after using it for a while, I've actually grown to prefer it to the Dixon on my Boxford, and am now thinking about changing out that one instead. Rotagrip stock genuine multifix and chinese copies.
  4. I would ask the question about getting 3 phase installed, you may be pleasently surprised
  5. I'm a Talyllyn Volunteer, as well as being a Model Engineer. There was a number of vehicles listed on the traction pages on Facebook a few days ago. There's a also a holiday camp on one of the railways using a Toad as a chalet. Can't remember where right this minute
  6. I've been thinking about this, need to sketch some things. To make it work at all I think I will need to employ some L shaped links, so it can reach out in front of the pivot and the front of the cupboard when open. I think there needs to be a pair to get it to open parallel, and I think the upper most link must be pivoted to the door at a point just below middle. Then, when the door is raised, the door will be lifted above the opening, because the pviot is below centre....I think! I believe it it were central it would be in line with, and if it were above then it wouldn't lift high enough.
  7. You are not wrong, its a tall order, but mounting on the sides is no problem at all within reason. Keeping clearance of 550mm in front of it is probably not an issue..keeping 1500 for a pair of side hung doors, can't see that happening! Bi fold doors...not sure if I can get everything all tied in nice...lots of things to thing about, and also still looking at having 750mm clear in front.
  8. Couldn't find anything which exactly replicated what I am hoping to achieve, although he has a table which opens out almost exactly in the way I think I need to create. What he did have was this....intreguing....
  9. Ok, so this is what I'm trying to do. I have a cupboard that has an opening of 1090mm. What I would like is a vertically opening door that comes up to leave a minimum clearance under of 1085mm, preferably the full 1090mm, to clear the contents of the cupboard sliding in and out. By having a vertically opening door I hope I can use more of the works floor space, instead of having to keep space clear as I would for normal side opening doors. Gas struts would be nice, make lifting a bit easier, but for now at any rate the thing I can't work out is the mechanism! Cheers
  10. Unfortunately not suitable for this instance, would normally be the nice easy solution though! That's what I'm thinking, but it's designing the pivot points and spec' for the rams that I'm at a loss with. Didn't have to chance to measure today, will try to do it tomorrow. Cheers
  11. Thanks lo-fi, I'll have a measure and do a doodle and let you know I came across that in several searches, but they all appeared to be a bit on the small and lightweight side. I don't expect to find a commercial offering for what I want to do, I expect to have to make something. Problem is, I don't know what the criteria for design are for this motion
  12. I need to make a large cupboard door open vertically instead of side or bottom hung. Space is at a premuim and hinged doors just will not work. Can anyone assist in the design, or point me in the right direction? Google has thrown up a number of images of kitchen cupboards but the mechanisms all look too flimsy for my needs. The crux of it appears to be a parallel mechanism, can't quite figure out what establishes the pivot points and link lengths though. Cheers
  13. Straight pipe and mandrel bends, avaliable from a number of places including the 'bay. Just started building up a 2.5" stainless system for my 88 which is about to start it's major rebuild.
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