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ejparrott last won the day on November 25 2016

ejparrott had the most liked content!

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About ejparrott

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    Land Rovers
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  1. No room behind but plenty underneath then
  2. ejparrott

    TD5 disco clutch not bleeding

    Yes bleed nipple is at the top. I've checked the pipework as best I can, visually and by feel. I can't find any trace of a leak anywhere, it's all dry. We had another go at bleeding it, seems to be producing loads and loads of air and we still don't get a clutch. I've never had a problem with this much air before, in brakes or clutches
  3. ejparrott

    TD5 disco clutch not bleeding

    Clutch was fitted by a garage, and the vehicle has been driving for 4 months, so I don't think it's that. I'm not sure it's anything to do with the clutch at all, its a hydraulic problem I'm sure. We left it wedged overnight, about 16 hours in total I think. Went out to it and we had a clucth, not great, biting point was lower than ever before, but it functioned. Took it for a test drive, gradually getting further from home, tested it for slip which it didn't, than it gradually started waning and eventually we lost it completely, luckily just as we pulled up outside the house and wanted to reverse it on the drive We've tried bleeding it again, 20 pumps hold it down and open the nipple, still lots of air every time. We've left it wedged again, we'll have to admit defeat on this one, get a garage to look at it. I'm really annoyed, I just can't see what we could have missed, why it's not playing ball
  4. ejparrott

    TD5 disco clutch not bleeding

    Really stumped with this one. Helping a friend with his Disco2, and we cannot get the clutch to bleed up at all. History is this ; owned the Disco getting on 3 years. It's normally had a bite point not far from the floor. Went in for a new clutch just before Christmas, came back and the pedal was the same. Friend suspected slave and/or master, so bought new, TRW/Allmakes. We've fitted them up, struggled to bleed, suspected DOA master cylinder so ultimately have refitted the old one, and eventually the old slave now too. Vehicle is parked nose up, about 6" higher than the rear as my drive sits, tried bleeding up by the two person method but getting lots of air but no resistance. Have reverse bled by modifying my Gunson Eazibleed, lots of fluid coming up to the reservoir no trouble. Can't reverse bleed from master as I don't have a cap to fit. I've had a boroscope in the hole and the pushrod is seated on the fork properly, thrust bearing looks ok, cover plate loks fine and we now know is Valeo. Found RAVE manual says to pump up and down with nipple open and pipe in fluid, closing the nipple after a period of time, not the usual down/close/up/open/down/close I'm used to. Air definitely appears to be coming out and not going back in, but still no clutch. Made a quick clamp for the slave, can push the pedal down about half way and goes rock solid, not moving. Say's to me there's nothing wrong with the cylinders. Currently it's parked on the drive, we gave it lots of pumps and wedged the pedal down. That method has never worked for me in the past, but I'm all out of ideas! Help!
  5. The key to it is the quality of parts ordered. Most people see the cheapest part on the list and buy it. It turns up in a blue box, it's Britpart, they ordered the cheapest part so it's **** and Britpart get the blame. If they'd bothered to look at the listing properly, for some more money there would have been another part listed with a part number ending in 'G' for genuine. Still from Britpart, but to the same standard as LR themselves fit, and there's a much higher chance of those parts being good. That said, I still won't fit Britpart unless I absolutely have no choice. I had an LT77 gaiter from them, arrived fine, fitted it, six months later it was in tatters, on a vehicle that had hardly moved. Unfortunately it was the only choice at the time.
  6. ejparrott

    Damaged core plug hole

    I've been doing a bit of looking around and it seems that reliably successfully welding a head isn't that easy. Many notes about different alloys being used, getting the right filler rod, porosity etc. Re machining to take a 25mm plug might be the most sensible option, which is something I'm equipped to tackle anyway. There's a nice flat space under it where I could stamp it with '25mm plug' so I remember in 30 years time when I replace it again.
  7. ejparrott

    Damaged core plug hole

    Had to change a core plug in my 200's head this weekend, rotted through. Had a right game getting it out, and once removed found out why, hole wasn't in great shape, obviously damaged by a previous fitter. Anyway, new one doesn't seem to have sealed properly. As I understand it, they are 24mm plugs, and 25 are available. Two options for eventual repair as I see it 1. Weld up the damage and remachine back to OE size 2. Bore it out to 25mm So....is 1. even entertain able? If so, and for 2., anyone know the interference fit size for the plug?
  8. ejparrott

    Fred Dibnah's collection up for sale

    Great way to start an argument that Fridge. Looks like a lot of overinflated stuff, that's only going to sell because it was his. Any other workshop clearance would dump the vast majority of that stuff as not worth the effort.
  9. ejparrott

    Major IVA change

    Waste of time addressing the Rugby MP, he's spineless, he'll only do what head office tells him to do, never challenges anything
  10. ejparrott

    Series swb 5 Speed Conversion - Help

    Yes, that's how my 109 is set up. I have bought a part time 4WD kit but I've not got around to fitting it. The red lever still gives me HiLo, the yellow is down for difflock and up for open. Being an LT230 both are of course 4WD, although as I still haven't changed my front diff, I'm permanently in difflock and 2WD. @BigJ on my 109 I built custom mounts to support the LT77 and LT230 on the original Series crossmember. My 88 is about to get a rebuild and will also be going LT77/LT230, but I'm in two minds whether to go the same way.. Before my chassis goes for galvenizing I am going to drill and tube the chassis so that I have the option to use the original Defender type mounts if I want to. The Defender tunnel is not a straight fit. IT doesn't fit the seatbox, and it doesn't fit the bulkhead either. I tried it with my 109 originally, then set out to prove the doubters wrong and put the Series tunnel back. Literally the only thing I've done is cut a new hole in the top 4" further back or whatever it is. The handbrake on that is the original early style Defender handbrake, with the external cable bracket removed, and special linkages made to connect it up to the Series handbrake. I've got an X-Eng handbrake kit for it, and I'm going to be converting it to use a cable and a Disco handbrake, long line of modifications to that story. My 88 I'm going to also swap to a disc handbrake, my intention is to retain the Series handbrake lever, but I'm going to fabricate a bracket and have that cable operated.
  11. ejparrott

    Invisible Defender

    We get it all the time, yes it's a Series 3, but it's got a 2.5 turbo under the bonnet,, and one of them has the fueling turned up to... Does show the value of the dashcam though
  12. ejparrott

    Series swb 5 Speed Conversion - Help

    The lever is slightly further back if you maintain the normal Series engine mount position, but the LT77 does fit under the Series Transmission tunnel if you open the hole out rewards, that's all. If you're using an LT230 as well, which I highly recommend, then remove the Difflock+HiLo shifter and convert to Series levers, it's not difficult
  13. ejparrott

    Series swb 5 Speed Conversion - Help

    I had a front prop custom made, can't remember the length but I can go and measure it. Skinny one
  14. ejparrott

    Found a new game - MOT history checking...

    That's interesting....apparently my 200 is 62BHP!
  15. ejparrott

    Discovery Seats in Defender

    I've got Disco 1 seats in the front of my 109, jacked up at the rear, but tbh I'm finding them too high and uncomfortable for driving any distance. My plan is to pull out the seatbox altogether and make it flat-floored like any normal car then I can build new custom frames to hold the seats in a much better psoition. Current project I'm just starting is to fit the second row seats in. This is going to entail some modification of wheel boxes and custom frames, will create a project thread for it in due course.

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