ejparrott
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Posts posted by ejparrott
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4 hours ago, lo-fi said:
For things like that, "in context" editing in OnShape is invaluable. Skip to 26:30 for a good explanation:
https://www.onshape.com/videos/managed-in-context-design-in-onshape-08-29-17
You can get a free account as a hobbyist, but if you'd like to roughly sketch something out with some measurements I'm happy to see what I can come up with for you.
Thanks lo-fi, I'll have a measure and do a doodle and let you know
18 minutes ago, landroversforever said:I came across that in several searches, but they all appeared to be a bit on the small and lightweight side. I don't expect to find a commercial offering for what I want to do, I expect to have to make something. Problem is, I don't know what the criteria for design are for this motion
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I need to make a large cupboard door open vertically instead of side or bottom hung. Space is at a premuim and hinged doors just will not work. Can anyone assist in the design, or point me in the right direction? Google has thrown up a number of images of kitchen cupboards but the mechanisms all look too flimsy for my needs. The crux of it appears to be a parallel mechanism, can't quite figure out what establishes the pivot points and link lengths though.
Cheers
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Straight pipe and mandrel bends, avaliable from a number of places including the 'bay. Just started building up a 2.5" stainless system for my 88 which is about to start it's major rebuild.
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Fascinating project
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No room behind but plenty underneath then
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Yes bleed nipple is at the top.
I've checked the pipework as best I can, visually and by feel. I can't find any trace of a leak anywhere, it's all dry.
We had another go at bleeding it, seems to be producing loads and loads of air and we still don't get a clutch. I've never had a problem with this much air before, in brakes or clutches
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Clutch was fitted by a garage, and the vehicle has been driving for 4 months, so I don't think it's that. I'm not sure it's anything to do with the clutch at all, its a hydraulic problem I'm sure.
We left it wedged overnight, about 16 hours in total I think. Went out to it and we had a clucth, not great, biting point was lower than ever before, but it functioned. Took it for a test drive, gradually getting further from home, tested it for slip which it didn't, than it gradually started waning and eventually we lost it completely, luckily just as we pulled up outside the house and wanted to reverse it on the drive
We've tried bleeding it again, 20 pumps hold it down and open the nipple, still lots of air every time. We've left it wedged again, we'll have to admit defeat on this one, get a garage to look at it. I'm really annoyed, I just can't see what we could have missed, why it's not playing ball
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Really stumped with this one. Helping a friend with his Disco2, and we cannot get the clutch to bleed up at all.
History is this ; owned the Disco getting on 3 years. It's normally had a bite point not far from the floor. Went in for a new clutch just before Christmas, came back and the pedal was the same. Friend suspected slave and/or master, so bought new, TRW/Allmakes. We've fitted them up, struggled to bleed, suspected DOA master cylinder so ultimately have refitted the old one, and eventually the old slave now too. Vehicle is parked nose up, about 6" higher than the rear as my drive sits, tried bleeding up by the two person method but getting lots of air but no resistance. Have reverse bled by modifying my Gunson Eazibleed, lots of fluid coming up to the reservoir no trouble. Can't reverse bleed from master as I don't have a cap to fit. I've had a boroscope in the hole and the pushrod is seated on the fork properly, thrust bearing looks ok, cover plate loks fine and we now know is Valeo. Found RAVE manual says to pump up and down with nipple open and pipe in fluid, closing the nipple after a period of time, not the usual down/close/up/open/down/close I'm used to. Air definitely appears to be coming out and not going back in, but still no clutch. Made a quick clamp for the slave, can push the pedal down about half way and goes rock solid, not moving. Say's to me there's nothing wrong with the cylinders.
Currently it's parked on the drive, we gave it lots of pumps and wedged the pedal down. That method has never worked for me in the past, but I'm all out of ideas! Help!
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The key to it is the quality of parts ordered. Most people see the cheapest part on the list and buy it. It turns up in a blue box, it's Britpart, they ordered the cheapest part so it's **** and Britpart get the blame. If they'd bothered to look at the listing properly, for some more money there would have been another part listed with a part number ending in 'G' for genuine. Still from Britpart, but to the same standard as LR themselves fit, and there's a much higher chance of those parts being good. That said, I still won't fit Britpart unless I absolutely have no choice. I had an LT77 gaiter from them, arrived fine, fitted it, six months later it was in tatters, on a vehicle that had hardly moved. Unfortunately it was the only choice at the time.
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I've been doing a bit of looking around and it seems that reliably successfully welding a head isn't that easy. Many notes about different alloys being used, getting the right filler rod, porosity etc. Re machining to take a 25mm plug might be the most sensible option, which is something I'm equipped to tackle anyway. There's a nice flat space under it where I could stamp it with '25mm plug' so I remember in 30 years time when I replace it again.
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Had to change a core plug in my 200's head this weekend, rotted through. Had a right game getting it out, and once removed found out why, hole wasn't in great shape, obviously damaged by a previous fitter. Anyway, new one doesn't seem to have sealed properly.
As I understand it, they are 24mm plugs, and 25 are available. Two options for eventual repair as I see it
1. Weld up the damage and remachine back to OE size
2. Bore it out to 25mm
So....is 1. even entertain able? If so, and for 2., anyone know the interference fit size for the plug?
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Great way to start an argument that Fridge.
Looks like a lot of overinflated stuff, that's only going to sell because it was his. Any other workshop clearance would dump the vast majority of that stuff as not worth the effort.
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Waste of time addressing the Rugby MP, he's spineless, he'll only do what head office tells him to do, never challenges anything
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3 hours ago, Gazzar said:
Hi EJ,
Can you do this and retain permanent lt230 style 4x4?
G.
Yes, that's how my 109 is set up. I have bought a part time 4WD kit but I've not got around to fitting it. The red lever still gives me HiLo, the yellow is down for difflock and up for open. Being an LT230 both are of course 4WD, although as I still haven't changed my front diff, I'm permanently in difflock and 2WD.
@BigJ on my 109 I built custom mounts to support the LT77 and LT230 on the original Series crossmember. My 88 is about to get a rebuild and will also be going LT77/LT230, but I'm in two minds whether to go the same way.. Before my chassis goes for galvenizing I am going to drill and tube the chassis so that I have the option to use the original Defender type mounts if I want to. The Defender tunnel is not a straight fit. IT doesn't fit the seatbox, and it doesn't fit the bulkhead either. I tried it with my 109 originally, then set out to prove the doubters wrong and put the Series tunnel back. Literally the only thing I've done is cut a new hole in the top 4" further back or whatever it is. The handbrake on that is the original early style Defender handbrake, with the external cable bracket removed, and special linkages made to connect it up to the Series handbrake. I've got an X-Eng handbrake kit for it, and I'm going to be converting it to use a cable and a Disco handbrake, long line of modifications to that story. My 88 I'm going to also swap to a disc handbrake, my intention is to retain the Series handbrake lever, but I'm going to fabricate a bracket and have that cable operated.
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We get it all the time, yes it's a Series 3, but it's got a 2.5 turbo under the bonnet,, and one of them has the fueling turned up to...
Does show the value of the dashcam though
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On 18/02/2018 at 1:47 PM, BigJ said:
Does fitting the LT77 with a 2.25 engine allow the standard series tunnel to be retained? Is the gear lever in the same position?
The lever is slightly further back if you maintain the normal Series engine mount position, but the LT77 does fit under the Series Transmission tunnel if you open the hole out rewards, that's all. If you're using an LT230 as well, which I highly recommend, then remove the Difflock+HiLo shifter and convert to Series levers, it's not difficult
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I had a front prop custom made, can't remember the length but I can go and measure it. Skinny one
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That's interesting....apparently my 200 is 62BHP!
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I've got Disco 1 seats in the front of my 109, jacked up at the rear, but tbh I'm finding them too high and uncomfortable for driving any distance. My plan is to pull out the seatbox altogether and make it flat-floored like any normal car then I can build new custom frames to hold the seats in a much better psoition.
Current project I'm just starting is to fit the second row seats in. This is going to entail some modification of wheel boxes and custom frames, will create a project thread for it in due course.
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Started watching it but got bored....does he actually do anything or show any bits or just he just sit there droning rubbish in to the camera?
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Getting ready to rebuild my 88 on to it's new chassis, I've decided I'm going to drill the chassis and tube it where the LT77/LT230 mounts would bolt on before it goes for galvanising. When I build it up I might still just stick with using my custom mounts on the Series cross-member when I build it up, but it'll be a lot better to put the mount holes in now than decide to try and do it later!
I'll drop the spare engine in and bolt the transmission up to get the length right from the engine mount, but to get the height, how does the transmission lie in a Defender chassis? I need to get the level right so I can mark through the mounts. I seem to recall in the vague mists of time that with the chassis level the transmission is also level, and the drive flange/hand brake disc would be vertical.
Cheers
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My last one split around the middle and was spraying diesel everywhere, non serviceable. Around 10 months old that was. Luckily I had two days previous just finished putting the engine back together on The 109 so I was able to go and drag the 88 back in...not the sort of thing I wanted to be doing so soon after rebuild with no proving at all!
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On 27/11/2017 at 1:02 PM, Dave64 said:
ejparrott,
Thanks, you had it for 10 years and it's still performing well? Good enough for me, but one question, did you have to get the injector pump recalibrated? Or just left it alone?
Dave64
Nope, just left it alone. Get me almost to 40mpg on our long holiday drives, I'm not going to worry about it at that
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Wish I'd fitted my electric pump years ago....would have saved a lot of faffing around
Vertical lift door mechanism
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
Unfortunately not suitable for this instance, would normally be the nice easy solution though!
That's what I'm thinking, but it's designing the pivot points and spec' for the rams that I'm at a loss with.
Didn't have to chance to measure today, will try to do it tomorrow.
Cheers