ejparrott
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Posts posted by ejparrott
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I am pretty sure its because It is more likely to be removable in the field with simple tools (military and agricultural vehicles in particular) but I believe its because it allows the joint more movement and adjustment after fitting without failure and like a tapered bearing, can be tightened without having to do a refit
If it was a parallel hole it would be impossible to stop it rotating whilst tightening. With a taper a little pressure causes enough friction (normally) for you to tighten.
Mike
That's not quite the point I was working on. I know parallel hole you can't tighten the nut, but the point is, as I said earlier, why don't they use a parallel hole and a clevis TYPE of fitting, one where the pin passes right through and both sides can be accessed
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I'd look at the air inlet pipework, see if that and the intercooler is full of oil
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Buzzweld. Perfect job for it. RCP Primer or 2k armour
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Nige at Megasquirt-V8 was doing them
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I always replace the LR flange head undersize bolts with standard bolts...bloody hate the darn things...
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300 will run without the lift pump. I was going to say solenoid. It does have +12v while cranking, if it didn't it'd never start
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Reliability for daily drivers has nothing to do with it being a Land Rover. It is purely down to the owner, the good ones do preventative maintenance and look after them so they are reliable. The bad ones just use cheap parts when they've got no choice but to fix the latest failure, and then moan that the Land Rover is unreliable. Really piddles me off that people bang on about 'unreliable' owners, it's unreliable owners that are the problem, not the Land Rovers.
<rant over>!
That said, the MOD doesn't buy cheap parts and the vehicles are looked after, mechanically at least.
Having said that, if the vehicle has been sat for any great length of time, things do need to be looked after to bring them back to life. A Turbo that's been sat will have drained it's oil and will eed the system repriming before it runs at any speed, but the oil may well benefit from being changed first. I'd expect to spend a week giving it a going over before using it, and I certainly wouldn't be driving it home
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Right, yes, radically different. A 3-dr, the tub is basically a stretched SWB tub, few differences but essentially that's all it is. Short Cill under the door with the thing at the back that slips up the bottom and bolts in. Bolted along the back of the seatbox - 11 bolts iirc - tabs on the rear crossmember, has a bulkhead at the front etc etc.
The 5-dr tub is very different. There's no bulkhead at the front - you can't, it's where the seats sit. You also have to provide a frame, a hinge post, and a shut line for 2 sets of doors. The Cill on a 5-dr starts off the same - it is a folded U section, has a bracket to bolt to the bottom of the bulkhead, then passes under the seatbox which it's bolted to in the same way. This then changes radically. The B post - the shut line for the front doors - is no longer part of the tub. On a 5-dr a steel post is welded to the Cill which goes up to roof level - I can see you found the bolts at the top when you removed the roof. The Cill then continues under the second row doors, all one piece, to provide the frame for them. This extends back under the odd shaped fill panel which has a line of rivets down it you can see from the outside. If you drill out those rivets - don't forget the 3 that are close together at the top - this panel will come away and expose the C post. This is more steel welded to the Cill at roughly 45 degrees leaning backwards. This also has a flat tab with two bolts going down through the tub floor on the inside. With the seats removed you'll see it, just below the seat catch. This whole frame removes as one, and usually they're rotted out in the C post where it joins the Cill. Those on my road-worthy 109 have been cut and patched and cut and welded soooo many times they're nowhere near the right shape now. I need to really do a body off rebuild of it and completely rebuild or replace them. Not cheap though. £200 per side, only going upwards
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Gas struts?
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Sorry, can't see what you're referring to. That's also a 3-door and you said yours was a 5-door, and the two tubs are quite different
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That's the Cill, that's normal. Take care of it, they're bloody expensive to replace!
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Not done it myself but I believe the entire tray can be fitted as original size, you just have to make it bolt on so you can actually get the engine in place, the FIP sitting underneath the tray quite happily
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M10 nuts for certain
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I just use Brit-car or LR-Direct, much better...
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From memory, the 109 5-dr tub has tabs bolted to the top of it to hold the front of the tub, and in order to access the top to weld it properly as required by the MoT you need to really remove the tub.
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If you've got the manpower and/or equipment avaliable, then take the tub and roof as one - assuming it's a 3-dr. If you haven't then it's a lot easier to split them, you can renew seals then too
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I've just fitted Bearmach tensioner and Idler, box was BM, didn't notice if it had any other make on it, will have a look when I get home
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From what I've seen they always use Dayco belts, but thats the only bit I'd use unless the part number was suffix G
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There's a coincidence...we did a timing belt on a pukka Defender 110 last weekend and it had done exactly the same thing...
I've also just done the belt on my disco 200 and my camshaft is trailing the mark on the casing by half a tooth.....
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lol All I was thinking was couldn't you use a plain hole and a clevis type of joint? Better engineered than the general rigging type you get if you search eBay for 'clevis' obviously, but that style of joint. It works on large turbines for control gear so I don't see why it couldn't be used on steering.
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Why are the holes tapered? Is it purely for doing the nuts up?
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Nice work...sheet metalwork is something I'm not overly good at, prefer machining big heavy lumps!
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FIP jammed. rebuild required.
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Series 200 tdi without the turbo
in International Forum
Posted
Yeah, fit it with the turbo, or don't bother fitting a TDi