That alternator moved exactly as you said it would once I'd located that 15mm bolt and semi-captive nut, Les. Brill...
Plus those exhaust manifold nuts/bolts were much easier to undo than I imagined they would be, considering the rust world they were living in. Only one undid without the bolt, and so I bolted that back up again, gently filed away two side of the bolt bit by bit, until a small open spanner fitted the makeshift shape, which worked a treat!
I now am about ready to remove the cylinder head, and wanted to ask about those critical positions of crakshaft and crankshaft sprockets etc... if that's OK!?!
When I was removing one of the timing belt upper cover nuts/bolts, the left inlet cam did indeed flip over - as I hadn't fitted the handy tool suggested in the Haynes manual that locks the sprocket pulleys together!?! But I've photographed each stage, and know just about where the cams were prior to the cam flipping.
What I was going to do next (remembering that I'm not in the trade or have the experience you guys here on the forum have), was gently turn the crankshaft until it is in the 'safe' or 'desired' 90' BTDC position as indicated by aligning the crankshaft pulley notch with the 90' mark on the lower timing belt cover, for at least the safe removal of the cylinder head. And leave the cams where they are for now - to adjust before re-fitting the CH.
There is a set up you can fit once the CH has been removed, that locates or pins the liners in position, so that the crank can be turned so that the piston crowns can be cleaned etc... Would you say this is OK?!?
Also, I've just seen a really good head gasket and bolt replacement kit for the Freelander on ebay, on The Gasket Shop, for £40 all-in... It looks pretty good - but I've noticed here a few posts regarding certain replacement parts?!? Any ideas on these?
Hope you don't mind me adding these questions here - only I didn't want to start another thread about the same task.
Cheers for any comments...
Tony D
