Roel J

Thanks chaps. Well, out witt he welder then! Anyone piccies on how they made the junction with internal/external THROUGH the roof? Thanks

Hello U all, Got a 90 - as featured in the members area with the " AG XC " title- with an full external SD cage. Noticed recently on a friend's 110 DCPU full external SD cage that he got an internal bar behind the front seats, connected tot the outer cage through the roof, making the cage far more stronger and a real roll cage. Now the questions: - Why didn't SD did it for 90 also? - Is it possible to order that (110 internal) bar separatly and weld it to my already existing bar behind to front seats? Anyone done this before? Thanks already!! Roel, Belgium

Hi al, Sorry to nick your thread, but where in UK do you can get spares? On Mainland Europe nobody seems to get them. Need a centre part 24 spl. and a dog clutch, cause its broken after two years of light (ab)use...... Thanks in advance once again chaps! Roel, Antwerp, Belgium

Well gents, I seem to have the same problem after rebuilding the 200 Disco engine in my 90 (see story " AG XC " in members area). Engine had 285.000 km, and a slight crack in the head. In and on went a secondhand cyl head and short block was rebored and everything rebuilt with the tickest gasket. Filled her up using not the dipstick, but the workshop-mentioned 7,5 liter of good quality oil, also 10W40 (think synthetic). Done the running in smoothly (but not grannylike) and went on holiday after 3000 km bedding in and came back with 8000 more on the clock. During my holidaytrip in Morroco I had filled her up with almost 2,5 liter, which means a consumption of 1liter/3000 km. During that time I thougt it had something to do with the heat making the oil thinner and the fact that diesels do consume a little oil. (before the rebuilt, every 5000 km a small top-up) After the trip: changed the oil and filter, filled with 7,5 liter, (reading not full!, only halfway+ on dipstick) and recently added 0,5 liter after less than 2000 km. So what to do next: 1) Keep filling up? 2) Not keen on opening up again the engine to see that there is a problem with rings and bores...... Is there a problem lurking that I ruin the engine filling her up? Thanks once again!

First prize goes to Kamdiffs Steve! Replaced the R&P and whining noise is completely gone. Me very happy!! Thanks guys and see you lot later! Roel

Wozza, how can I test that plz?

Apart from the funny side, how can I check a ring and pinion is gone its best? Steve, Have you got a piccie where to look out for plz? Thanks!

Dear Steve, Thanks for the reply. Bearing diff were replaced as a matter of course when I put in an Detroit Locker last year before I went to Morocco. Locker is now removed (broken) and original diff was re-installed. Bearings have thus 11.000 kms since then. Already two persons, with vast knowledge for diffs and both working on and for Land Rover, have it checked and have it balanced, with the same result: whining noise..... Don't know of a third party where to go to then......

Hello there, I have a 1985 90, Disco 200 tdi retrofitted, LT 77 gearbox with disco X box. Fitted with BFG AT 235 on Wolf rims. Lifted by 2 inch with Bearmach blue springs, polybushed purple and with Paddock wider UJ props. Strange noise is as follows: it appears at 50 Km and stays there. I can get it louder when in 4/5th gear and accellerating/decelerating. Seems a bearing..... Removed the rear prop and gone was the noise! Fitted front prop on rear and noise came back. Not yet tried testing with standard prop, 'cos I think it has nothing to do with props? Bearings diff are replaced, bearings wheel make no sound, correct tyrepressures, balanced wheels, etc. So where to look? - resonance noise from the props? - bearings in gaerbox (no load when no rear prop has been fitted?) - ???? Please help, because I do not want to ruin something by keeping on driving. Thanks in advance already! Sincerly, Roel from Belgium

Hello there, Bought the wide yoke Brittpart greasable props for my 2'' lifted 90. After the Morocco trip I am intending to fit a third nipple for the sliding portion. Any body an idea how to start with it, because I can't see the thread to separate the two halves.... Thanks in advance already! Roel

This is the reply I got from Mud on my question regarding the switches: Hi This is something we noticed only recently ourselves. We contacted Carling and have been informed that is the correct way for the switches to work. Only one 'on' position will illuminate the warning light. Carling does not offer an alternative switch that will light the LED on both 'on' positions. Regards Kevin Baldwin MUD-UK www.mudstuff.co.uk +44 (0) 1422 881951 MUD-UK Unit 20, Moderna Business Park Mytholmroyd Nr Hebden Bridge West Yorkshire HX7 5QQ ----- Original Message ----- From: To: <mud@mudstuff.co.uk> Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 4:26 PM Subject: Carling switches > Dear Miss, Dear Sir, > > I would like to know that the ON-OFF-ON switches have the facility to give > the red control light on both the ON sides, ie top and bottom. > > Mine seems only to work on the bottom for some odd reason.... > > Can you shed some light on this please? > > Thanks already. > > Sincerely, > > R. J > Belgium > So it seems that there is only one side working and giving that red control light??? Can anyone confirm? Thanks already! Roel

Well, thanks already for the answers! I shall try to draw a diagram over te next WE, 'cos a mate of mine is mainly working on the wiring... The note that the red light goes only on under full load is obvious, but will be tested! Keep you posted!

Hi there, I have placed some Carling switches from Mudstuff to my Defender 90. I have the X-Eng fan controller unit and I have for this used a switch ON-OFF-ON. Funnily enough, only on the manual override, the tiny red light goes on, so in auto mode I have no visual indication that the auto-mode is on. Can anyone tell how to get the red light working also on the other ON? What have you guys done to get it working? Thanks! Roel, from Belgium

RTC308 - GBP 8.34 plus tax. Thanks merry vuch matey!! Roel

Hi all, Been searching the forums but found no relevant info. Have a RR 3 bolt box fitted to the 90. Years of sterling service, but now the box is leaking. Not at the most common place (under the arm to the axles), but on the back end of the box, going to the steering column itself. My supplier here in Belgium says that this specific seal does no longer exist, " cos too old " Is this true or is there anyone in Blighty who can supply me with one? If yes, where and what costs it? Thanks guys! Roel Antwerpen Belgium

Well some time ago I posted also a question on aftermarket steering wheels and Kevin Baldwin pointed me in the rigt direction on a BM Boss (gave even the partnumber!) and advised on Momo. Now I have bought that boss for my 85 90, which is indeed a std 36 spline shaft. Daft thing happened as I couldn' fit it!! Reason was that the shaft is 18,7 mm in outer diameter and the boss has the correct number of splines, but has an inner diamter of 18,0 mm. What shall I do: Trying to get the extra mm. out of inside of the boss with a drill or Trying to gently rub the shaft with emery paper so to "thinnen" the shaft? Any recommendations please? Roel

@ Expat 69, Well, didn't know that part of the story! I saw a report in a mag, stating it was quite fun. But can't you vineyard owners organise yourselves then by asking for other lanes to use? In Belgium, when you shout hard enough, you can get the National being demolished to a snobbish NRR style show event... Roel

Hi guys, Anyone of U (YOU) already taken part in this Raid, which is non competitive. Is around end of October each year and takes place in the Cevennes region in middle of France. I was wondering how technical the routes are, because you have to ride 200 kms + each day and there are some trials and technical sectiosn thrown in for some good measure. So let your experiences, good and bad, be heard! Thanks, Roel Belgium

Hello, Is it possible to fit a 300 tdi cilinder head on a 200 block? Are there any major problems or is it a small alteration? Reason is I have a cracked 200 cilinderhead And Turner Eng. state on their website that there are no new 200 heads. But when checking with Craddock, Paddock, Brittpart en MPS: there are???? Can anybody help me please..... Roel Belgium

Well, All is well in the end: chassis is perfectly straight! Happy New Year then to all..... Roel

Well chaps, Thanks already for your answers! I don't blame Richards: I read here and on other forums that they sell good chassis and are the most accurate. And this was true, 'cause I already built the 90 casco up, prior to fitting the rear bumper and to get my roll cage mounts spot on. I didn't spot any problems whatsoever and the chassis was straight on the inside/outside panelling. On my old chassis though, an OEM LR, there was some very minor distortion, almost invisible, unless you put a long square bar next to it. We're talking here about 2 mm inside wobbling. Then I got the bare chassis shotblasted and got it hotdipped. I think that the galvanisers were too fast in putting it in the bath, causing the distortion. No way they could fix that one out. Distortion here is about 3-4 mm. I aready did some measurements with a pliable meter (do you understand, that thing a builder uses for his measurements) and the difference between the two outriggers on the inside at the front x-member and the 2 riggers rear crossmember is only 2 mm. I don't think that this, if correct measured, is of any problem, given the fact that there is always some room to play with on a Landy. During the WE, a engineer from Bayer Materials will come, do some cross measurements, will take pictures and will discuss this with his colleagues to see if there is any problem to adress. I don' t quit yet, for every problem there's a solution. Will keep you posted! Roel

Troddenmasses, So when I come over the various shows next year celebrating the 60th aniv., I will see at the trade stands all distorted chassis? Seems very strange that no-one ever mentioned this.... Roel

Hello, Bought this summer from Richards a brand new chassis for the 90, without rear Xmember. Welded my own rear bumper in it, got it shotblasted and had it galvanised last week. On return to the workshop, I noticed the chassis was a little distorted on the long panels at the sides. They are not straight anymore and show a little up and down.... Chassis seems straight, but is it normal that there's a little distortion ( 3mm) to be seen on the panels? This distortion will not be seen when tanks and gearbox are in place , but it is an odd sight Happy Christmas to all! Roel

A quick update: I have a quote form Craddocks, stating that I have to pay 135£ incl VAT and shipping for the doorpanels. I would like to know that anyone has any experience with them shipping such sensitive items. Come they at your place in one piece and not broken or bended? Also, I said I would like to pay, only is Craddocks can guarantee me this being sended in a wooden crate or samething. Then no answer anymore.... Any comments or ayone coming to Belgium in the near future? Thanks ! Roel Antwerp Belgium

Well Tonk it's the other side I need B) ! The outer doorpanel wich is STC 569 AND STC 570. Why is there a price difference between those two panels? Thanks anyway I know the firm by now.... Roel Antwerp Belgium