stobbie
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Posts posted by stobbie
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lets hope he will finaly have to go to jail. Their car thefts have been all over the news, but that's some time ago already
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Hi,
I have a defender 2.4 TDCI. A few days ago it cut out while driving. It would immidiately start again en run for a short while. Sometimes for 30 seconds, sometimes 10. Now it won't fire at all.
It cranks fine, but will not fire.
It's freezing here, minus 8 degrees celcius. I thought there may be ice in the fuel filter so I have changed that, but it made no difference.
I did have a few alarm problems lately, but at this moment it locks and unlocks fine with the keyfob and there is no immobiliser light on the dash.
On my nanocom and on my IIDTool I see RPM's while cranking, so I assume my crankshaft position sensor is working.
I've checked all underseat relays, they are all fine.
Half of the times my IIDtool an nanocom looses contact with the car. When I disconnect the battery most of the times it will connect again.
I was thinking of some kind of immobiliser problem. But should it crank when immobilised?
I do have some errors about lost communication with instrument cluster, but when I clear them they will stay away for a while, but still no start.I have no diesel at the injectors. Should I always have diesel at the injectors? Even when I have some kind of electrical problem? The high pressure fuel pump is pure mechanical? Or can the VCV valve or something shut of all fuel to the rail?
I don't see any railpressure on the display but when I record live values it shows a pressure..
With easy start the engine fires right up, but ofcourse dies again when I stop spraying.Any ideas?
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Yes, they screwed me over, one or two years ago..
Yes it is strange that nobody has gone to his house.. His details are easy to find..He has built a nice shed:
https://www.facebook.com/Edwardbarrington814
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To get back at them a bit I regulary buy rather expensive parts from them on Ebay. TDV8 complete interior for 1500 etc..
I make an appointment for collection in a few days. Mark the item as paid afterwards and ofcourse never show up :-) .I hope the will have to pay the ebay charges each time. After I while I will leave some negative feedback, telling the parts where damaged and they wouldn't refund :-)
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Haha.. CH is fine with me..
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Yes, that would be a possibility.. ..
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We have replaced several low mileage tdci engines for customers this year and have replaced several turbo's, injectors, vcv valves etc.
On this rental car we have replaced a turbo already this year and now it has several other problems.
It is still running however.
Everything is way more expensive on a tdci than on a 300tdi and breaks more often. I almost never have to replace a 300 turbo even at very very high mileages, injectors keep going for ever, no problems with bearings etc. Only a head gasket every other 250.000km, but that's a 3 hour job on a tdi.If I would fit a 300tdi I would use an MT82 adapter and I would retain all wiring and even the engine ecu, without the engine. Then I would just have to fit a tdci temp sender to the 300tdi and everything should work exempt for the rpm signal, but I don't need that.
It would be way cheaper than a replacement engine because I have several good 300tdi's lying around. I would just have to buy the mt82 adapter.But I'm not going to do it.... Because it's a rental car it will have to be legal...
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No, it isn't allowed, but it will never be tested again. We only have tot have an engine conversion tested if the number of cilinders or type of fuel changes..
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Has anyone on here converted a tdci to 300tdi? We have one of our rental defenders with a broken engine and are fed up with all the TDCI problems. Our 300 TDI's don't give any problems at all.
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that's a good idea!
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I'll buy a few of those..
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I've sold my 2005 d3 tdv6 a few years ago with 625000km's on the clock. We used it to tow our trailers throuh all of europe. We only once broke down during our trips with a broken alternator. I've replaced a few suspension arms, a brake caliper, blanked off the EGR's when they broke down, a few ball-joints. It has been one of our most reliable cars.
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@Davo, yes it is strange, but I can't think of anything anymore..
I have a puma heater so it the flow of coolant will be blocked off at the heater when it is set at cold and that's not a good thing with a V8, but we don't have a thermostat fitted, so there should be flow.
But that is the last bit that could cause some strange behavior.@cynic-al, I have a td radiator fitted. But because of the hot oil the water is hotter as well, so the temp is higher with the oil cooler in the radiator
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I have a 3,9 V8 in een Defender. It was running hot on idle. I have now fitted bigger fans en blanked off the oil cooler and now it sits at 88 degrees for hours.
The extra heat of the oil cooler adds a few degrees to the coolant. I don't have much space for an external oil cooler because I allready have a auto gearbox cooler and an aircon condensor in front of the rad.
Can the 3,9 be run without the oil cooler for normal road use? I do have a customer who's running one without oil cooler but that's an old man who does 1000 miles a year...
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thanks
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OK, even if is has a mulitbelt on the alternator it is still called a v-belt setup?
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Thanks. Dropping the sump is a bit too much work just for identification . But I could look in the sump with an endoscope at the next oil chance. .
So, if I understand it right, any cam for a dizzy V8 will physically fit? For fitment it is just dizzy or no dizzy?
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OK, I'll try that next week. Do all 4.2's have a serpentine and a v-belt?
Is there a difference in cams? Can I just buy a ERR5924 3,9 cam?
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Hi, I too have a V8 identification problem..
I have a Range Rover Classic LSE. I thought it had the standard 4.2 V8 but I found an old receipt in the pile of receipts that statet that a brand new 4.6 engine was fitted 10 years ago.
I have looked but there is no engine number on the block.
I has one small serpentine belt and a few V-belts.
I have some tappet noise and would like to replace them and the cam but have no ideas what to order. I probably should buy a timing chain as well.
Could someone point me in the right direction?
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I don't think there are a lot of companies that will do a rhd to lhd conversion for 1000,-. That is almost the amount for the labour and the LHD parts are hard to find and expensive.
We could do this conversion combined with a full restoration, but it would cost a LOT more than on your Polish quote. I gues somewhere around 35000 to 40000 euro's
Have a look at our projects at www.facebook.com/onetenlandrovers or www.one-ten.nl
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Hi PhantomSVE,
Thanks for your reply. Unfortunately our customer didn't want to wait anymore and has collected the car without having it repaired. I'll try to get him to come again and I'll do the tests you've mentioned..
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We have a 2007 Defender 2.4TDCI here and it will not rev.
When it is cold it stops at 3000 rpm, but when you keep the pedal depressed it will go past 3000 with a lot of noise.
When it is warm it won''t go past 2250 rpm.
When you drive it, everything is normal, normal power, it just cuts out at 2250 rpm. Sort of like a limiter, a sort of on-off on-off..
At first it showed an injector fault code, so I have had the injectors tested and they are all fine.
I've done a pump calibration in SDD, and that completed without problems. I've done a pilot learn and that completed without problems as well. No fault codes present anymore.
Rail pressure seems OK in the live data in SDD..
Anyone an idea?
300tdi - Thick grey smoke from exhaust?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I've got a Defender that has been doing this for over a year now, and cannot find the problem. It has done 40.000 kilometers running this way now. No problem at all, but still would like to get rid of the smoke 😞