rusty94disco

i've just changed the front props transfer box uj and what difference that has made and it took some levering before it showed any sign that it had failed at a couple of different rotation points and then only only one bearing had gone so it may not be as loose as you think it should be. my donut has splits and was my first suspect but it's still there and none of the vibration is still there. i also changed both rear roll bar to axle ends that killed of another rear clunk.

hurray after years of mystery small clunk almost every gear change in my 94 300tdi now @ 152,000 It's gone and the disco is so much much smoother and quieter and a with marked reduction in drive train vibration. last week a sudden very bad vibration led to the changing of the front propshaft transfer box end uj after 1 of the little bearings self destructed imagine my surprise on the test run afterwards that the mystery clunk had gone. honest guv: i"ve greased the propshafts as per service rules and inspected them fairly often and never found any freeplay or obvious problem so there's a lesson learned: just because it looks ok if you suspect it then replace it. (i bought the uj's about a year ago just in case considering the mileage ) BTW this job would have been almost impossible without the propshaft tool even then it's an medium pain to do. i also replaced both rear roll bar links and that's got rid of another clunk at the rear end. i've still got the rubber donut to do as it showing some small splits in it. (how many times do you have to explain to the sudoeco mafia: that yes my car costs more in fuel than the average 4 wheel box but i'm not paying out £200+ per month to hire it from the loan company every month before putting fuel in BTW how many new cars have you had since mine was built 16years ago: and thier faces are shut: engaging smug mode:lol:

i've got one of the trim panels on each side instead of seats: very useful they are 2. The unfortunately seem to be very rare and i got a spare of ebay this year to replace one that had cracked.

hi pinn76 my rust disco adventures are listed on this topic http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=46513&view=&hl=&fromsearch=1 and it includes a link to the photos i took while doing it. never heard of the 8 second rule before. Re inner wing a kit of parts can be got from YRM http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.com/page3.htm. see my photos for exasperation opps inspiration. if your doing the welding yourself invest in a an auto shield welding mask. good luck it's agreat feeling when the gumpy mot guy hands over the mot with a muttered not bad well do there mate.

another cooper user here i've just replaced a set of at's on the front after 25,000; mostly road miles the rear's are good for another few thousand miles. the At's were great on and off road but mostly on forest roads and soft fields rather than green lanes. replaced fronts with atr's and so far very impressed quieter than the at's on road and ploughed through the recent flooded roads no problem not used them of road but don't think they will be at all bothered with what i do.

Hi i did my 94 tdi a month ago and it passed its mot last week no problem. All the mot tests is smoke. car feels much smoother. i paid the extra for the flexi down pipe and fitting was no problem just a bit of wiggling about.

thanks for the comments and if anyone wants another picture of the finished bits just let me know. after driving around now for a week i'm convinced the new air pipe and catless downpipe have made a big difference to power and hopefully milage which had dipped to 25-27 on average; i do alot of town and A road ,15 miles at a time runs for work and this weeks fuel seems to be going further. Strangely i now have a new leak in the passenger footwell area coming from high up as well as the one in the boot from the alpine windows but i have plans for these. just put new cooper atr's on and there great; grippy on and off road. lets see what their like in the winter since iv'e got loads of winter hiking in the mountains up north planned. parts mostly from paddocks with the usual hiccups and vague delivery much better were http://www.lrseries.com/ apart from a britpart top swivel pin which there was no way a bearing will go on to. on swivels the bottom pin was so tight i broke both my torx bits trying to remove it, so i didn't bother, when i cleaned it up it was fine and i just let it be. you don't need to remove it to rebuild or dismantle the swivel housing. The body and rear mounts came from mps4x4. i got the extended rear ones and probably didn't need them but it was usuful to have so much metal extra to overlap the rusty original fixing area. re tank strap; this was a major pain and success because to do it properly you need to drop the tank unless you doing the boot floor then it will be a doddle. Something i wish i had considered when i did mine. I remember thinking it might need done but was in to much hurry to finish it. this time i made the strap out of a length flat steel minus the bracket on the drivers side then bolted it on once i had shoved the strap over (not that easy) i did buy the bracket on the chassis and my there mounting was ok. i've heard that most have lost the chassis mount as well leaving a big hole there. I've just found out that my local scrappy has got a 96 xs in so i'm of to have a look see. A leather steering wheel would be nice and those half leather seats with the land rover logo are good; here's hoping. ps re td5 lights all you have to do is take the lens off your originals ,paint the shiny flat part black reseal the lenses onto the back and refit.

I've just had this experience and without les's guide might given it a go. actually not a problem apart from the muck from the one shot which in my case had almost all leaked out the swivel seal. really is a piece of tiddle to do problem will be all the other things that might need doing at the same time. If you can try checking the preload on the swivel it makes an enormous difference to your steering all my wobbles are gone. gav

after a tough couple of month's welding and fixing things my venerable 94 tdi is back on the road. To be honest it was very close to being retired. I even tested a few TD5's but most were very ropey in my price range all were over 100.000k and with out reasonable services histories. one for sale at nearly 5000 only had 2 dealer stamps. but i'm very glad it's done. My photos are here in a rough order of the repairs done. the one inner sill piece of advice i missed until to late is to forget patching but to cut the bottom out of the sill and put a length of 120mmx60mm box inside then attach the new mounts to it and weld the whole thing together again. the inner wing parts are from YRM and i shudder to think how much more difficult it must be to put in a full built up inner wing. i lost count how many times i temp fitted the main part to get everthing lined up. A discovery i did make is that my early model 300tdi is put together slightly differently on either side and dimensions from one side aren't the same either; Well done land rover quality control. finally the old disco passed the test first time and i even got a muttered positive comment from the garage. heres the list of repairs Drivers side light box and mount lower half rebuilt battery carier and small piece of inner wing below replaced. front sill mount completly replaced front of outer sill rebuilt and boxed in floor checked and some seams welded where the original spot welds had obviously never taken. outer sill patched A post base patched usual rust on rear traps around door welded rear cross memebr mount replaced. rear cross member repaired where it's hidden under the bumper plastic panel Original towbar rebuilt and new strengtheners put in (some thing to check here new tank strap and brackets made up from spare bits on metal. rear lights swapped for the ones with indicators in them rear door spring fixed (It opens)) passenger side rear cross member mount replaced c pillar plated where the drain plug is fitted. This is what i think lets the rust into the wheel arch wheel arch patched near the seat belt mount. rear sill mount repaired. outer sills patched front sill mount repaired front of sill boxed in A post patched foot well and floor patched / replaced inner wing replaced light box lower part replaced both swivels and cv's replaced (no more steering wobbles at last) all bearing replaced all ball joints replaced poly bush's for panhard rod new driving members (no more clunks when changing gear) New cat less down pipe with flexy bit; easy to fit and full new exhaust ( original cat was solid with black soot you couldn't even blow thought it!)and as an experiment a new 80mm induction feed pipe instead of the original which really is a mess and must choke the intake. probably not much more power but feels much smoother and now pulls better and longer from lower revs than before) boot floor got done 2 years ago. biggest cost apart from parts Welding gas and etch primer; which sticks to metal better than any other paint. zinc primer and black metal paint; lots followed by waxyol in and on everything; including the cats and then on parts of wife, son and house nothing was amazing difficult but welding straight up is horrible. good luck if you contemplating saving your disco