Troll Hunter
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Posts posted by Troll Hunter
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Hi, All, many thanks for all your replies and experiences. It looks as if I'll be making a cardboard model tank, and then getting my friend (they can be bought for a few folding beer tokens) to use his magic "stick-steel-to-steel machine" to transmute cardboard into steel, so that I end up with a non-leaking diesel fuel tank.
Since I'm never shy of asking silly questions (already proven) has anybody considered/done an additional fuel tank in the space between the wheel "arches" in a 110? This space is about 36" x 34" x 8" (too much junk in there to measure accurately), but it could give an added capacity of ~ 160 litres, i.e. 20 litres per inch of tank height/lost storage height. Of course, the full 8" need not be utilised, but it's an area that could very well be used for this purpose, depending on other space demands. Also, after looking at commercial sites offering auxiliary tanks (₤300+) and the relatively complex shapes used to maximise volume,a simple flat sided tank suddenly appears very attractive
!Any thoughts or comments from the bigger brain, please?
Mike
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Thank you, everybody, for your replies. As usual, your responses have given rise to more questions
. Please bear with me, as I don't want to reinvent ....... etc!Leeds, what exactly do you mean by a "wing tank", (Post #5)? Is it the same as Richard Allen has (Post #4)?
Tacr2man, is the bottom balance pipe between your tanks safe from impact by high ground? I assume you had to cut a new entry into the original tank, where, or did you just join the outlets via the supply line to the engine?
Mike
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I've been looking at their tanks, and they do look good, but I'm in western Canada, so it's going to be a diy job, I'm afraid.
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I'm considering adding an auxiliary diesel fuel tank to my 110 CSW and I'm asking for installation recommendations and specially advice on a transfer pump to allow tank to tank transfers. Any comments and experiences will be very much appreciated. Many thanks, in advance.
Mike
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To be fair though, the engine seems to be pretty decent - 410bhp from 6.2l is pretty good for a truck engine, assuming it still has proper American V8 levels of low-end torque. It's 10bhp more than the 32 valve, quad-cam, double VANOS, throttle-body injected V8 from the E39 M5, which made 400bhp@7,000rpm from 5l but with bu&*er all below 3,000rpm (or at least bu&*er all for a 3 tonne truck
)Would be fun to put one into a 110!
Andrew Cleland's views seem to be a little unfair. I've relatively recently emigrated from UK to Canada, and I've just bought, two days ago, my first "local" car mag (www.dieselpowermag.com). Look at what they are doing with diesels here. I was jaw-dropped!!!
http://www.gm.com/experience/technology/gmpowertrain/engines/duramax/duramax_engine.jsp without nitrous!!!
OK. They are 6 - 7 litre motors, but they are getting approx 140+ bhp/litre, and they are still driveable on the road. I'm a "power and tuning" incogniscenti, but the idea that North American vehicles can go fast in a straight line, and nothing else, is history. Remember the saying:"Know your friends, but know your enemies better." The North American diesel development momentum is starting to realise what we, in Europe, have realised some years ago, that there is more energy density in diesel than in gasoline, and they have the incentive to be the best!
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An interesting truck, and thread, but why have most of the photos on Photobucket been removed? A lot is lost without the photos.
Mike
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A few years ago I followed a thread here, and I don't remember which forum, but it covered waste oil burners - design, build, operation &risks - in very good detail. Perhaps somebody can recall it and make it available again.
Mike
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Zim,
It's a lovely photo, very pretty, and in beautiful focus, but being very new to hydraulic systems - I'm overhauling a recently bought, very old Kubota tractor, with loading bucket and backhoe - what parts in your photo should I be appreciating? Some labels and arrows would spare the incogniscenti, such as me, the embarrassment of not knowing what we're looking at!
!Mike
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Range Rover Blues, many thanks for the link. He's got some very interesting products, and I'll give hime a call. Since I'm in BC, Canada, I'll see if he's got anything suitable that he sources from this side of the water. Thanks again.
Mike
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A bit off topic, I know, but I'm sure I read about this product many, many moons ago on this forum. I have worn bushings on my Kubota tractor backhoe, and I've read that there's a product that can be applied / injected into the shaft/bushing annulus to take up the wear. Can anybody, please, point me in the direction of this, or similar, products? Many thanks, in advance.
Mike
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Regarding actual vehicle weight, I had to have my 110 300 Tdi weighed before I could register it here (BC, Canada) and with roof rack, but only standard jack, ets., it came in at 1968kg. I must admit, I didn't ask for that mornings calibration certificate!
Mike
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Have you considerd keeping your intercooler and adding an electric fan to blow/suck air through it even when the vehicle is stationary? I have this set-up, with the fan coming on automatically with the ignition. I can't give you figures on its effect, but from touch (vehicle stationary and bonnet up) there is a significant increase in manifold temperature if I switch the fan off (there's an over-ride switch).
Mike
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A similar thread is here:
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Extract from Defender owners handbook referring to snow chain fitting & usage
Thank you all for your input, and not for the first time, Western has come up with the definitive answer. My Owners Manual had gone walkies before I had my vehicle, so thank you very much.
I've now got to fit my non-LR approved chains and check for any possibility of interference with the brakes. If so, I'll have to hunt for LR approved ones this side of the pond.
If anybody knows any manufacturer of LR approved chains, that info would be a great help, please.Mike
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What do you mean by "precise"? What standard instrument are you calibrating the installation against? Just because the digital version gives the output to the nearest degree doesn't mean it's precise. A digital watch is a good analogy.
I've got a VDO EGT gauge, calibrated in increments of 100Deg. F, and I'd love to be able to check it. As it is, I just play safe and limit my EGT to an indicated 1250 Deg. F (~677 Deg. C), which I understand still gives a margin of safety. If you know how I can calibrate it, please tell me. Many thanks.
Mike
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Please can someone with experience advise me on the use of snow chains? I've got a Defender 110 CSW, and I've just been on the LR site (http://www.landrover.com/gb/en/lr/defender/accessories/) which advises use of snow chains on the front wheels - and rear if necessary - but should the centre diff be locked or open? My guess is that it should be locked, but does anybody know, please? Thanks in advance.
Mike
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Adam,
Thanks for your advice, and I agree that a replacement pump is the way to go, in the event of pump failure. I haven't actually serviced the pump. I removed it only to replace a failed O-ring in the HP discharge. Job's done, and I'll be testing it tomorrow
.Mike
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At last, I've got a definitive answer, although this appears to be a "non-serviceable" component, and no details of the pump internals appear in any LR WSMs!
Referring to the photo, the spring goes into the pump body first, followed by the small, grooved cylinder/piston, bottom centre. This goes in with the end with the small hole in it first. The HP adapter, top right in the picture, holds this in place against the pressure of the spring.
Many thanks to Julian and Chris Bird, of Bedw Services, in Dyfed, for finding a spare pump and stripping it to confirm the orientation of the components. These two are absolute stars, with Land Rovers being in their DNA!
Many thanks, also, to all others who have been puzzled by, and trying to resolve, my dilemma.
Mike
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Dirtyninety and Piper109,
Many thanks for your replies, but I'm still amazed that it seems nobody has stripped a 300Tdi power steering pump, and is able to provide a definitive answer. I don't think that I've ever been the first person to do anything
! Unless somebody does come along with positive knowledge, I'll add to this post the details of what I did, and the results, good or bad.
Mike
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Tony,
As an avid reader, but infrequent contributor, I really appreciate all the work the admin team puts into running this site, and being Treasurer is one of the most thankless. Many thanks for your energy and input, and I wish you every success for your future ventures.
As for you, Nige, I expect one class act to follow another, notwithstanding the new build (or is it a vapour project?), and I wish you every success.
Mike
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Hey, guys, this is getting me really worried:huh:. Has nobody ever taken a 300Tdi power steering pump apart? Please, I'm getting desperate:unsure:!
The attached file shows the parts that have got me stumped!
If there is no "forum knowledge", does anybody have an LR Tech help contact, please? There aren't many LR experts in this part of the world - rural BC, Canada!
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Can somebody please tell me which way round the grooved cylinder and spring should be re-fitted into my power steering pump.
I had a fluid leak from the joint between the pump body and the high pressure hydraulic adapter that fits into the pump body and retains these in position. They fell out when I removed the adapter, and I've no idea which way they should be re-assembled:unsure:.
The O-ring on the adapter was shot, hence the leak. There's also an O-ring beneath the flange that secures the low pressure connection to the pump. That was toast, as well.
Many thanks for any much needed guidance, since there's nothing on pump overhaul in the manuals that I've got.
Mike
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Si,
Many thanks for the confirmation.
Mike
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I had a front diff from Paddocks and it weighed 42 kg. in original LR packing case.
Mike
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. Please bear with me, as I don't want to reinvent ....... etc!
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If anybody knows any manufacturer of LR approved chains, that info would be a great help, please.
Bigger brakes
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Apologies for hi-jacking the thread, but while talking about uprated braking performance, is it possible to fit vented discs on a 1991 110 with solid discs? Presumably, new calipers would be required, but what else would need changing, if anything?
Mike