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Troll Hunter

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Troll Hunter last won the day on January 15

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    Kaslo, BC, Canada

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  1. Good point, Tanuki. I was aware of the galvanic cell problem, but hadn't decided how to tackle it. If I can use rubber hoses and no copper elbows I should be able to avoid major problems. On further examination of the original V8 heater core, which I am still using, it appears to have brass connection pipes, or at least some yellow metal, as does the 300Tdi radiator. After some 20+ years of use there doesn't appear to be any significant corrosion. There is some internal corrosion in the steel pipe that runs along the top of the rocker cover to the cabin heater.so this might require replacement. Land Rover obviously got the yellow metal alloys close enough in galvanic potential to minimise corrosion. Mike
  2. A good point. Thank you for prompting me to look in the parts manual at V8 hoses since I had only been looking at 300Tdi ones. Something about not seeing the wood ....... I'll get a couple on order and see if I can totally avoid using copper elbows. I'll update, but it'll be a couple of weeks, at least, before I receive them. Mike
  3. Thank you, all, for your replies and suggestions, some of which may be applicable. I should have included photos in my OP, so here they are. My vehicle originally had A/C, but when I replaced the V8 with a 300Tdi I did not have an A/C compressor. I now have 4-60 air conditioning - four open windows and 60kph. In Canadian summers that is OK. It's the winter period that I'm trying to cater for. What I am now trying to do is add another heater core to the original heater box, having removed the A/C evaporator core. The photos show the reconfigured pipework and the two copper elbows I want to attach. All the piping is nominal 1/2", as in traditional domestic plumbing. As you can see, space is limited. I can still remove the new heater core to work on the two pipes, but the final solution has to fit into the box. I am already planning to use 1/2" bore rubber heater hoses to connect to the flared ends of the aluminium pipes. Compression fittings may be suitable, since I can cut back on the aluminium pipe which has a 90 deg. elbow, to give a bit bore room. I don't think that threading of the pipes is an option since the wall thickness is only 1.11 mm, and thread depth is virtually that. If I find that compression fittings don't do the job I'll reluctantly fork out for one of the soldering options. So, thank you, everybody, for your input, and I'll update with the final solution. Meantime, keep healthy. Mike
  4. As in the title. I need to join these two dissimilar metals for a mod on my CSW cabin heater. It appears that Uniweld 4300 (P4KD9) is the recommended method, but is there a cheaper method/process/material that anyone can recommend, please? I'll have to sell a kidney to buy that Uniweld productšŸ„ŗ. Muggyweld Super Alloy 1 is even more expensive. I'd have to sell both kidneys, plus a few other parts! Is it possible to use something like JB Weld, a 2-pack "epoxy metal" that sets hard and seems to adhere to almost anything? All recommendations will be very gratefully received. Mike
  5. I consider myself so very lucky. I have a 1991 CSW that I've owned since 1995 and I'm now into a complete tarmac up rebuild. I had the 3.5 V8 swapped for a 300Tdi in 2003 and never regretted it. Now, during my rebuild, I am treating it as a hobby, not a chore. This is important, because if it becomes a chore you will come to recent it. Sometimes I'll work in my shop for six hours, and other days I'll just enjoy going fishing. I'm fortunate in that I have another vehicle as my daily driver, but I am under pressure from my wife to complete the project, since it has now been over 3 years, and she wants us to go on a road trip and camping. By the way, I'm just past 77 yrs., and I had my first Landy in the early sixties, so Landy love doesn't die with years. Mike
  6. You may well have a faulty new unit. I have had two replacement fuel level senders that were faulty from new. It seemed in both cases that the contact between the slider and the coil was not consistent, and I couldn't see any reliable way of increasing the pressure of the slider on the coil to give a reliable fuel level indication. Send your new unit back and request a replacement. Mike
  7. Some ten or so years ago I had an Alisport inter-cooler fitted, and the fueling was "adjusted" at the same time. Fortunately I had already fitted an EGT because I very soon found that exhaust gas temperatures could very quickly, like in a few seconds, shoot up to above 750 Deg C. when on full throttle but down at 2000 rpm. ie working hard. Yes, please get an EGT gauge before you adjust fueling. A gauge is far cheaper than a new set of exhaust valves. Since exhaust gas temperature can change so very quickly I have replaced the fuel gauge in the dash cluster with the EGT gauge, so that it is right in front of me, and I have relocated the fuel gauge to a Mud dash top panel. I don't need to look at my fuel gauge more than once an hour, so out of the direct line of sight is no problem. Mike
  8. Thank you. That's something else I've learned. I was on my Acer laptop and I don't think that I've ever had that problem before. Can't be sure though. Anyway, thanks for the explanation. Mike
  9. Thanks, Ed, for some reason that top line of links didn't appear when I loaded their page, and I've just reloaded their page, and it still doesn't have that top line. Everything else on the page appears, at least initially, to be the same. I haven't checked it item by item. However, by clicking on the three horizontal lines at top right a drop down menu of options appears which shows the items in the top line of your screenshot. Why the differences beats me! Mike
  10. I've just visited the BP site and there is no mention of any activity or interest other than supplying LR associated products. Surprisingly, there is no "About us" and no "Contact" links/pages. It seems that they want to keep as low a profile as possible except for supplying poor quality goods. Mike
  11. I wish I had known that before I had my chassis and other components galved! Maverick, how do you remove your throw away nuts and bolts after galvanising? Mike
  12. For my strip down I noted and numbered every action on my laptop and used numbered ziplock bags to contain the removed components. Also, take photos, lots and lots of them, since they don't cost anything. My complete vehicle strip down is recorded in nearly 700 actions and just under 600 photos. And I didn't take enough! Mike
  13. I don't know about that. One thread on this forum IIRC stated that silicones burn off at a lower temperature than zinc melts,so, unless the ash/residue prevents zinc adhesion it won't work. Mike
  14. As I said in another thread recently, to make your post galvanising life easier, at this stage identify every threaded hole or male item, both thread size (diameter and tpi) and type (SAE or metric). Once items come back covered in zinc identification can be difficult. Tapped holes will require drilling out and re-tapping, and male threads will need addressing with the correct thread file as a minimum. Although I've got both SAE and metric tap and die sets up to 12mm and 1/2" I have still had to buy additional re-threading items. Mike
  15. ^^^ Agreed. Searching Amazon.ca I found this: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07F3CX7B3/ref=pe_3034960_233709270_TE_item. Considerably cheaper than Blue Sea, and I just hope it's not the local equivalent of a Britpart quality component. I'll report if there are any deficiencies. Mike
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