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Troll Hunter

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Troll Hunter last won the day on January 15 2020

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    Kaslo, BC, Canada

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  1. If you remove the door internal trim card you can get a very good idea of the extent of skin corrosion and the extent of the rust of the internal steel structural elements. You can assess the problems when you read my door repair project: Mike
  2. Thank you, guys, I've got the info and answer that I needed. A volt meter it will be, and I'll pass on your hybrid gauges😕 thank you, western. Mike
  3. Although specifically for a Defender, I think that this has general application. In the rebuild of my vehicle I am planning to upgrade some of the instruments. For example, I want to have a proper coolant temperature gauge and an engine oil pressure gauge. My question is about the alternator charge light on the dash. Is there any benefit in fitting a voltmeter or an ammeter, and if so, which? All views, experiences and factual information from anybody who understands electrons will be very much appreciated. Mike
  4. Brit-car have them at 20p. upwards. Genuine LR bits are GBP1.67. Mike
  5. I'll second FF on the General Grabber AT2's regarding mileage, although I think that they are now no longer available. I've no experience of the GG AT3. Mike
  6. ^^^^ That is a brilliant thread from aulro.com. Thanks for posting the link. Perhaps this could be linked in the Tech archive since it's far more comprehensive than anything else I've read on LR noise suppression. Of course, it's given me a load more work in my rebuild! Mike
  7. Did you ever get further than hatching a plan? Mike
  8. While you are waiting, if the security key is not hardened, you could try drilling through the side wall of the security key, tap the hole and thread a bolt into the recess in the security nut. This may prevent the key turning. If it does, you've gained a day or two, but if not, wait for the new key to arrive! Mike
  9. Amps @ 13.8 Volts LENGTH OF WIRE American Wire Gauge (AWG) 0-4 ft. 4-7 ft. 7-10 ft. 10-13 ft. 13-16 ft. 16-19 ft. 19-22 ft. 0 – 10 16-ga. 16-ga. 14-ga. 14-ga. 12-ga. 10-ga. 10-ga. 10–15 14-ga. 14-ga. 14-ga. 12-ga. 10-ga. 8-ga. 8-ga. 15-20 12-ga. 12-ga. 12-ga. 12-ga. 10-ga. 8-ga. 8-ga. 20-35 12-ga. 10-ga. 10-ga. 10-ga. 10-ga. 8-ga. 8-ga. 35-50 10-ga. 10-ga. 10-ga. 8-ga. 8-ga. 8-ga. 6 or 4-ga. 50-65 10-ga. 10-ga. 8-ga. 8-ga. 6 or 4-ga. 6 or 4-ga. 4-ga. 65-85 10-ga. 8-ga. 8-ga. 6 or 4-ga. 6 or 4-ga. 4-ga. 4-ga. 85-105 8-ga. 8-ga. 6 or 4-ga. 4-ga. 4-ga. 4-ga. 4-ga. 105-125 8-ga. 8-ga. 6 or 4-ga. 4-ga. 4-ga. 4-ga. 2-ga. 125-150 8-ga. 6 or 4-ga. 4-ga. 4-ga. 2-ga. 2-ga. 2-ga. 150-200 6 or 4-ga. 4-ga. 4-ga. 2-ga. 2-ga. 1/0-ga. 1/0-ga. 200-250 4-ga. 4-ga. 2-ga. 2-ga. 1/0-ga. 1/0-ga. 1/0-ga. 250-300 4-ga. 2-ga. 2-ga. 1/0-ga. 1/0-ga. 1/0-ga. 2/0-ga. This is what I use, but I can't remember where I found it. It seems to work OK, with negligible voltage drop. Mike
  10. I'm about to install same duty wiring, and it will go under the floor rather than trying to crowd wires under the windscreen edge trims to access the inner roof gutter. Mike
  11. You could try one of these: https://taitatools.com/ Mike
  12. Any reindeer in the area? They obviously can't keep up by the time you change into third!
  13. I hardly think that a few minutes of running without the air filter is going to be detrimental. For this test you don't really need to go on the road. In my case the tick-over was fine, but as soon as I tried to rev I couldn't get above about 1500rpm, without being in gear, the engine was strangled. Removed the hose between air filter and turbo and the engine was back to normal. Mike
  14. My step-father was a Met police car driver and subsequently an RAC Approved driving instructor, a qualification that seems to have disappeared these days. He taught me exactly as Eightpot describes above. Read the traffic, no excessive acceleration or braking, and be in the right gear to move off. All the electronic gizmos on vehicles today may help the driver, but they do nothing to help the driver to acquire the skill of driving. If you need computer controlled parallel parking you shouldn't be in charge of a car. Sorry, rant over. Mike
  15. A very interesting thread. Several times it has been suggested that the air inlet piping to the turbo should be disconnected and the turbo allowed to breathe totally unrestricted. This test would indicate or remove a de-laminating rubber air inlet line as the problem. Despite these recommendations I have not seen the result of this easily performed test being reported, or have I missed it? I have suffered from this failure mode, and it resulted in the engine running normally at tick-over but lacking power when under load. The extent of loss of power would depend on the degree of de-lamination. Mike
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