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Troll Hunter

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Troll Hunter last won the day on January 15 2020

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    Kaslo, BC, Canada

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  1. Thanks for your best wishes, simonpelly. My rebuild has little of interest in it, and there are far more captivating projects than mine. I might, however, include a photo or two of my electrical mods. Let’s see how I get on! Mike
  2. My fuel filter is mounted on the right hand side of the engine compartment forward of the cooling header tank, as in simonpelly’s first photo. It has always been here, as far as I know, at least since 1995, when I bought the vehicle. The spill-back line from cylinder one injector to the FIP is a gently curved line, not one with pre-formed bends. The two pipes connected to the filter are as in simonpelly’s second photo. Although the lower pipe in my original photo could go to the area of the 300Tdi fuel lift pump the pre-formed bends are all wrong, and the 300Tdi lift pump doesn’t have banjo fittings. Bowie 69 and hurbie may just have hit the answer. Somewhere during the last 19 years, since I had the engine changed, I’ve collected a couple of 200Tdi pipes and I inadvertently got them mixed-up with the bits that I dismantled during the tear down. Thank you, everyone, for your suggestions, photos and general detective work. I’ll continue with my rebuild and not worry any more. Mike
  3. So you’re still unsure, simonpelly! I agree with you, but 100%. I still can’t work out where the other line would go. I don’t think that it’s a breather because of the two banjo fittings. Mike
  4. Now I’ve been out to look at the engine, FIP and filter I’m sorry to say that my mystery remains. All the fuel lines are already connected up. The upper line in the photo could go from the No.1 cylinder spill back to the back of the pump, but it would need a few more inches at each end. At least it is the right shape. The other line doesn’t seem to fit anywhere. From the front of the FIP it ends somewhere in the middle of the air filter, and not the right shape to connect to the fuel pump. I’ll not worry, but will continue with my rebuild and if I find out where they go I’ll resurrect this thread and close it out. Mike
  5. Thank you, thank you, thank you. For some reason I was convinced that they were parts of the breather systems. It’s funny how one can be blind when totally convinced of something. All is now well. Mike
  6. My vehicle is a LHS 1991 110 CSW originally with 3.5V8 and LT77S g’box but now with a 300Tdi and R380. I’m rebuilding the dash and I’ve got the two screen demisters installed on the plenum, which also supplies the face level vents in the dash, but I’m at a loss regarding the left hand end of the plenum. It ends with a slightly upturned outlet that is 53mm I/D and 60mm O/D. What is supposed to go onto this? Although I tried to make a text record of everything I removed , and a photo of a lot of the bits, I’ve no record of removing anything from here, which perhaps explains why the demisters never really worked! Please can anybody throw any light on this open end. Mike
  7. My vehicle is a 1991 110 CSW originally with 3.5V8 and LT77S g’box but now with 300Tdi and R380. My memory, the LR parts manual, LRWorkshop and the LR Maintenance manual have totally failed me. About seven years ago I started my tear down and labelled most bits I removed, but I am totally lost regarding the two pipes below. They appear to not have had oil through them, maybe water, but no evidence of any liquid. I already have the breather lines on both front and rear axle tubes and on the t’box and g’box extension. The upper pipe is approximately 54cm long and has one banjo fitting of 21mm diameter. The lower pipe is approximately 51cm long and has two banjo fittings of 21mm and 23mm although not very clear in the photo. The bends in the pipes are as they were when removed. Both pipes are very stiff plastic except for the short metal section that includes the banjo fitting in the upper pipe. The longer straight of the lower pipe is almost the length of the engine block. THat’s about all the detail I can provide. Can anybody throw any light on them, please. Mike
  8. Totally agree with keeping detailed records, far more than you think at the time are necessary. Not having ready access to all the LR original wire colours and gauges in the lengths I’d need them I totally disregarded colours. The way I identified wires was by numbering them. I bought from Ebay a couple of sets of 0-9 numbers, 100 of each. These I slipped onto the wire at each end and I then covered each with clear heat shrink tubing. This kept the number, of three or four digits, legible and allowed me to slide the number set along the wire if I needed to shorten the wire. Mike
  9. Defender 110 CSW with 300Tdi. In the process of my total body rebuild (Charles Atlas - look out) I ripped out the rat’s nest of all my wiring, much my own additions, and decided to replace it all. Three parameters I worked to was that every consumer of 4 amps or more would be fed through a relay, every consumer would have an earth (ground) back to a bus bar and then to the battery, and I would include a dash warning light test at ignition On.. These requirements resulted in a HUGE numbers of wires and a massive amount of computer based detail logging. In retrospect I would have been much smarter to buy all the various looms and add earths, for example. It would have saved me much time and might have been cheaper. Still, that’s what I’ve done and I’m now at the stage of connecting a zillion wires from the dash panel and a Mudpod panel to the bulkhead mounted fuse panel. Happy days! OK, from my experience I’d recommend buying the loom you need and augmenting it, if necessary. Don’t ry to make your own. If anyone wants to know more about this stage of my rebuild project, just let me know. Mike
  10. I see that in Simon Pelly's photo above the EGT gauge is mounted in what looks like a Mudpod, on top of the dash. I’ve swapped my fuel gauge into my Mudpod and have the EGT gauge in its place in the dash. I did this because exhaust gas temperature can change very quickly and you need to be aware if you are approaching your maximum allowable temperature. On the other hand, you usually only need to look at your fuel gauge every hour or so, unless you are running on fumes and hope! Mike
  11. What about repairing your existing bulkhead annd having that galvanised? Mike
  12. I have a dashcam in my pick-up and a reversing camera in my 110. The latter communicates with my windscreen mounted screen by bluetooth. This is very useful because it saves me having to run wires from the back to the front. Also, the reversing camera is weatherproof and is mounted just above my tow hitch. I get a lovely picture to help me reverse onto my trailer. What I am looking for is a dual camera setup that provides a decent dashcam and a weatherproof back-up camera with bluetooth communication. I don’t want two screens at the top of my windscreen! Has anyone got a recommendation, or even found, such a setup, please? Mike
  13. Ooh! you have got me excited now❤️‍🔥🈲️! Thank you for your responses and suggestions. Yes, it’s this potential mix of imperial and metric threads that I’m afraid of. I think that your suggestion of cutting off the old fittings and either reusing them or using them to identify the correct replacements is the way to go. I also like both the suggestions of using banjo fittings and of fitting an easier access bleed screw. As far as lying on the ground is concerned, if I can’t be bothered to remove my pit cover, I lie on a double thickness sheet of bubble wrap. It’s insulating and more comfortable than bare earth or concrete. Mike
  14. Most of us have at least one 🥳🤡! But never mind your vice, forget about the vise and try soaking in vinegar or some other acid. This should dissolve the rust which has “welded’ to the plastic without damaging the plastic. Just a thought, but I hope it helps. Mike
  15. Many thanks for your suggestions for sourcing a braided hose. What about the end connections? Mike
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