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Troll Hunter

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Troll Hunter last won the day on January 15

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About Troll Hunter

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    Kaslo, BC, Canada

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  1. I've fitted all plug locations which didn't already have magnetic plugs with a regular steel plug with a high strength magnet glued to it. Every time I remove one of these plugs, either for an oil change or just a check, there is a "bloom" of material on it. I've learnt to not be alarmed by this since if you smear it on garage cleaning paper it amounts to no more than oil/grease with a very small amount of ferrous material in it, although enough to make it magnetic. I also have a magnetic sleeve for my engine oil filter and when I used to check the filter content at oil change the residue there used to frighten me. There's no apparent deterioration in my 300Tdi engine, so I no longer worry about the "bloom". Likewise for my transmission and differential drain plugs. Yes, I do recommend fitting magnetic plugs to all oil drain points. Mike
  2. Mutley, From personal experience, I'd recommend setting your heart on the Gwyn Lewis one but then allowing your head to take over, and buying one of the cheaper models. You can then have the money left over from the Gwyn Lewis non-purchase to buy the flowers for SWMBO. Although the flowers will not last as long as a new ball joint, they can have additional benefits😍! Mike
  3. So, all is revealed. Still being a long way from fitting interior trim I hadn't considered checking it out. Thank you, both, very much for the clarifications. Mike
  4. Peaklander, I've just been out and fitted one of these brackets, as in your photos, but I still don't know what they are for. Since they each bear against the same panel as they are bolted to they don't seem to supply any support function. The hole in each, on the inward facing surfaces when mounted, suggests that they are for mounting something else on, but the interior trim of the CSW covers them totally, and does not have any corresponding holes that would allow access to these brackets. One of your photos appears to have a small rubber pad beneath the end of the bracket. I have similar pads bagged with these brackets. What is the purpose of these pads? Perhaps these brackets have a use on other Defender models and are redundant on the CSW. Any answers, please, or have I totally misunderstood their purpose? Mike
  5. Thank you, Peaklander, for ending my frustration 😀😀😀. When I disassembled and bagged the brackets I had kept the two parts of each assembly loosely bolted together, but had not made a note of the correct orientation. I can now take another step in reassembly. Thank you again. Mike
  6. Western, Many thanks for your description of the bracket mounting position. I think I've got it right, as in the first photo, and the securing nut will screw down to secure the upper section to the waist rail. Assuming the waist rail is secured to the lower section by rivets, the upper section would be secured. But I still cannot work out what to do with the other two pieces. They don't seem to fit anywhere. The big U-shaped section isn't large enough to fit from above the top section to below the bottom section, so where does it fit? I'm still close to becoming totally bald☹️! Thanks for the link you included. This is, in fact, a copy of the 110 parts catalogue that I referenced, and provides no help whatsoever.
  7. As in the title. When I disassembled the bodywork, some 3 years ago, I took loads of photos, but obviously not enough. I'm now trying to work out how the front mountings of the upper side panels should be refitted. The first photo below shows the front of the upper section fixing which has a shallow vertical pocket to accept a nut plate and a rectangular hole directly below the nut plate pocket. The marks are still on the top and bottom but one holes showing where the mounting bolts, shown in the second photo, were. Below the upper side is the waist capping which has quite a large hole with a section of crush tube welded in it. This is directly below the rectangular cutout. It appears that the upper side attaches to the waist capping and the waist capping is attached, by rivets, to the lower side. The second photo shows the clamping fittings I removed three years ago. I've believe that the stud bolt with the special washer welded to it should be mounted through the crush tube with the washer between the upper and lower side sections. The three little bent tabs are a loose fit in the crush tube bore, but how does the bracket arrangement fit? The right hand end of the brackets has a largish hole, but not as large as the inner bore of the crush tube, and it is too close to the long leg of that bracket to fit over the stud bolt when the bracket is bolted to the nut plate in the pocket. The lighter gauge section to the left I cannot fathom at all! The LR 1987 One Ten Parts Catalogue, page 865, is not much help as it shows only a simple "L" shape for this bracket. Also, of course, it doesn't show definitively how the fixings are attached. So, can anybody put me straight on these mountings, please? I've not got much hair left, and I certainly can't afford to tear any more out! Many thanks, in advance, for any pointers. Mike
  8. Yes, thank you, Bowie69. As I said, I'm not great on electrickery, but I do understand, now🤔!
  9. And I've concentrated on fixing a ride-on lawn mower that has had an oil leak for at least three years, and on a petrol powered air compressor that needs a new bullwhip. Keep well, keep healthy and keep happy. Mike
  10. I'm not great on electrickery, but what about an LED bulb and a resistance (normal bulb) in series? Mike
  11. One disadvantage with a skid steer is that they can chew up the surface if it is soft, eg a lawn after a wet period. OK if you're prepared to re-level and possibly re-seed, but can be a disaster otherwise. In my innocence I once allowed a contractor use his skid steer and the lawn was cut up inches deep. Mike
  12. I happen to have my clutch line from a diesel R380 box sitting on my bench and I've just measured it. It's 12mm, and it does not fit part no. FTC5071, which is a Series III or V8 slave cylinder (Brit-part site), although my 1987 Defender 110 Parts Catalogue shows PN UKC8677L for the V8. The same reference gives the PN FTC3911 for the R380 clutch slave cylinder (p. 330, Item 10). I assume this is for diesel engine units since they have a separate page, p. 329, for the R380 with a 4 cylinder petrol engine. This page has the PNs and descriptions screwed up, so the correct PN for the slave cylinder in anybody's guess. To add to the confusion the Brit-part site also lists the PN FTC5072 for "CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER 2/300 TDI - V8 - DEFENDER - DISCOVERY 1 - RANGE ROVER CLASSIC". A complete muddle, and you have my sympathies. Perhaps our numbers man, Western, can throw some light on the subjecct. Mike
  13. Good point, Tanuki. I was aware of the galvanic cell problem, but hadn't decided how to tackle it. If I can use rubber hoses and no copper elbows I should be able to avoid major problems. On further examination of the original V8 heater core, which I am still using, it appears to have brass connection pipes, or at least some yellow metal, as does the 300Tdi radiator. After some 20+ years of use there doesn't appear to be any significant corrosion. There is some internal corrosion in the steel pipe that runs along the top of the rocker cover to the cabin heater.so this might require replacement. Land Rover obviously got the yellow metal alloys close enough in galvanic potential to minimise corrosion. Mike
  14. A good point. Thank you for prompting me to look in the parts manual at V8 hoses since I had only been looking at 300Tdi ones. Something about not seeing the wood ....... I'll get a couple on order and see if I can totally avoid using copper elbows. I'll update, but it'll be a couple of weeks, at least, before I receive them. Mike
  15. Thank you, all, for your replies and suggestions, some of which may be applicable. I should have included photos in my OP, so here they are. My vehicle originally had A/C, but when I replaced the V8 with a 300Tdi I did not have an A/C compressor. I now have 4-60 air conditioning - four open windows and 60kph. In Canadian summers that is OK. It's the winter period that I'm trying to cater for. What I am now trying to do is add another heater core to the original heater box, having removed the A/C evaporator core. The photos show the reconfigured pipework and the two copper elbows I want to attach. All the piping is nominal 1/2", as in traditional domestic plumbing. As you can see, space is limited. I can still remove the new heater core to work on the two pipes, but the final solution has to fit into the box. I am already planning to use 1/2" bore rubber heater hoses to connect to the flared ends of the aluminium pipes. Compression fittings may be suitable, since I can cut back on the aluminium pipe which has a 90 deg. elbow, to give a bit bore room. I don't think that threading of the pipes is an option since the wall thickness is only 1.11 mm, and thread depth is virtually that. If I find that compression fittings don't do the job I'll reluctantly fork out for one of the soldering options. So, thank you, everybody, for your input, and I'll update with the final solution. Meantime, keep healthy. Mike
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