Jump to content

Troll Hunter

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Troll Hunter last won the day on January 15

Troll Hunter had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

93 Excellent

About Troll Hunter

  • Rank
    Old Hand

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Location
    Kaslo, BC, Canada

Recent Profile Visitors

2,247 profile views
  1. About 1" wide should be OK, and it could be with bristles, natural or nylon, or even a paint pad, and probably with a wooden handle, although a plastic handle would be acceptable. As always, different strokes for ........ Bye! Mike
  2. It seems there are conflicting statements in various publications, but the arguments above for having both sliding sections at the transfer box end of the props sounds like good sense to me, so that is how I'll be refitting mine, when the time comes. Mike
  3. My Land Rover 1987 110 Parts Catalogue, pp. 399, 400, show the front shaft sliding joint towards the diff and the rear shaft towards the t'box. On my 1991 110 they are installed that way. Mike
  4. Many thanks, Peaklander. This document obviously applies to a later model Defender than mine, 1991, but it is still relevant. These points are obviously in addition to the other points detailed by western on Tuesday. Mike
  5. Thank you, both, for putting me right - vaseline first, than tighten up. Mike
  6. Thank you, both, for sorting this for me. I took hundreds of photos and made copious notes during the strip down, but it seems that no matter how many photos and notes one makes there will always be something that gets missed! Again, many thanks. Mike
  7. I've got a bracket mounted double fuel line clip (supply and return) which I can't find the correct location for. My LR 1987 110 Parts Catalogue has a page dedicated to the fuel lines for a 300Tdi, p. 543, but although there is a part number key, there is no diagram to which it refers. So, does anybody have a copy of the missing diagram or can anybody tell me where it should go, please? Mike
  8. Many thanks for these additional details, western. Vaseline it is then, after all connections have been cleaned with fine emery cloth and done up tight. Mike
  9. Hi, Just looked on EBay for that timer, and over here the same one appears to be only US$4.97 with free shipping. Somebody's ripping off UK clients! https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Digital-LCD-Relay-Switch-Weekly-Programmable-Electronic-Time-Timer-12V-24V-220V/162400001480?hash=item25cfcb5dc8:m:mVlu6uIhQwCWOkt74RowBvA Mike
  10. Western, Many thanks for the details. Since the earth route for many items is via the chassis or the bodywork, how is the chassis connected to the battery negative? Having really cleaned connections before bolting up do you recommend covering the connections with a protective compound - grease, silicone mastic, other??? Mike
  11. As in the title. I'm starting to replace electrical systems on my rebuild and am afraid that I haven't got all the necessary grounds between chassis, engine, gearbox, transfer box etc. Please, can anybody direct me to a list or diagram that details these. There are more than enough threads that seem to be generated by a poor earth and I don't want to contribute to the list. I've searched my LR Parts Catalogue, but found nothing. Of course, old age doesn't come alone, and unexplained temporary blindness is a common failing👴😕! Many thanks in advance for any guidance anyone can give me. Mike
  12. I use my reciprocating saw very rarely, but when I do it is the only tool I have which will do the job. The last use was to cut the head off the front bolt on a radius arm which was totally rusted solidly into the radius arm and I had failed to move it with an impact driver and with a socket with an extension bar and a long pipe. I used a metal cutting blade by Diablo, a part of Freud group of companies. Mike
  13. I suffered absolute total failure in getting the plastic tangs into the slot. I tried the opposite of FF's metal strip, which was used to separate the tangs for attachment to the clutch operating arm on a 3.5 V8, and tried a metal strip with a V-cutout intended to close the tangs to get them through the slot. I also tried grinding down the ball on the end of the rod about 1mm to allow the plastic tangs to penetrate further through the operating shaft in the hope of getting a grip I bit the bullet and split the g'box from the engine. Even then it was a real struggle to get the tangs through the slot in the clutch operating arm, and for them to stay engaged. It seemed that if the rod was in not aligned as if still in the slave cylinder that the tangs would come out of the slot in the arm. With much care I managed to fit the clutch slave cylinder and the tangs are still engaged. G'box back tomorrow. It seems that this is the only way to relocate the plastic rod locating bracket if you are unfortunate enough to dislocate it while replacing your slave cylinder. Mike
  14. Many thanks for such quick replies. Since the engine has no pipes connected I'll play safe and use my trolley jack under the engine as Western suggests. I must admit that I thought it would be front heavy, since the engine mounts appear to be roughly opposite number three cylinder. Shows how little I know!😕 Mike
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy