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Troll Hunter

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Troll Hunter last won the day on January 5

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About Troll Hunter

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    Kaslo, BC, Canada

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  1. New Work bench advice

    I agree with the posters above that a metal top, although not essential, is highly desirable. It's easy to keep clean and good for fabbing on. A wooden top tends to absorb any spilled fluids, and metal particles, from grinding for example, tend to get embedded and generate later contamination and grief. My bench top is 24" wide 3/4" plywood with a 16ga. mild steel cover, and I love it! (Sorry, that's getting a bit OT!) Mike
  2. Heated Washer Jets

    The other issue, which is really difficult to do anything about, is that under the laws of physics the methyl alcohol will tend to evaporate from the screen wash at the very tip of the spray nozzle. In theory, at least, this could raise the freezing point of the liquid right at the tip to a value above the ambient temperature, and hence it would freeze, although any ice film could be very thin, and easily broken/washed away, when the spray is next used. One option to counter this, if it proves to be a problem, would be to have a NRV in the supply line just inside the bonnet, so that that line section benefits from engine compartment heat, and add a very small drain hole immediately above the NRV. This would allow screenwash to drain from the washer tip, thus preventing freezing. Admittedly, the small drain hole would allow some loss of screenwash when the washers are actually being used, but provided the hole is really small, this should not be a significant loss. Mike
  3. Rubber seal between windscreen and bulkhead

    Many thanks, western. This is the same info as Brit-car sent me this morning. I reckon that the 17cm dimension should be 1.7cm, ie the thickness of the seal. The length you quote is about what I was hoping for. I just don't understand how they can get such basic information so wrong! I have sent a supplementary email to them asking for clarification. Grrrrr! Rant over. Mike
  4. Vehicle: 1991 110 CSW, VIN: SALLDHMV8HA905197 My LR 1987 One Ten Parts Catalogue shows this item, p. 787 item 21, to be part number ALR1737, and it is the full width of the screen. However, looking up this part number on a number of supplier websites comes up with several part numbers that have superceded it, but they are all in the range 20 - 25cm length. Is the LR catalogue wrong, and am I looking at the wrong part number? Please can you point me in the right direction? Many thanks, in advance. Mike
  5. Replacement doors bonnets bulkhead

    Repair of the ccurved sections is not that difficult. I had zero metal fabrication or welding experience but did an acceptable job. The write up is here: Page 2 shows the rot around the curved door sections and pp. 5, 6 show the repairs. Hope this encourages you to persevere. Mike
  6. depressed top surfaces of Defender wings.

    Thanks. I'll follow up. Mike
  7. depressed top surfaces of Defender wings.

    Thanks for the pic, Eightpot. Yes, they look very good and I think that they will be the answer for me, provided I can get a reasonable quote for the freight. Mike
  8. Difflock linkage eyebolt LT230T

    Since I've got my engine and transmission out ATM I did the very same adjustment a couple of weeks ago. I've just measured the distance, as you asked in the OP, and it is 56mm. I did find that even a single thread difference in or out on the pivot pin made the link non-operational. I could engage one gear, but not disengage and engage the other. I admit, I do need new plastic washers/bushes, Item 2 in the figure, and these will be fitted before I refit the bits. Replacing these may give me a little more wiggle room in the adjustment. Mike
  9. depressed top surfaces of Defender wings.

    Thank you, all, for your ideas and tips. Your pointer, Eightpot, looks like the dogs danglies, if I can get them here at a reasonable freight cost. One of the problems of getting the existing top surface flat again is that the skin has stretched, and my metal working skills are not up to shrinking it back. If I can get these panels I'll probably try glueing them to the original panels, with the wing, currently removed, upside down on a smooth concrete floor and a significant weight of sand bags inside it to try to get the two surfaces in contact. Optimistic, yes, so I'll also use countersunk screws or countersunk pop rivets, just to be sure. I'll post how I get on. In the meantime I've got a seriously corroded rear end door to perform major reconstructive surgery on. This might also get a brief report. Mike
  10. I'm doing a total rebuild of my 1991 110 CSW, and my query regards the front wings. Being vertically challenged, both wing tops are a little depressed due to me leaning on them when trying to access the engine compartment. Apart from fitting chequer plate wing tops, is there any other way to restore them to a more or less flat, horizontal state? I'm afraid that new LR or Bearmach panels are not an option ($$$$). Has anybody tried, for example, gluing a flat steel (?) panel beneath the aluminiumm wing top? Or should I consider a new flat ali panel on top of the present wing top? All views, comments and experiences will be gratefully received. Mike
  11. What is the black mastic LR use?

    Thank you, all, for the info and suggestions. Having the appropriate description I've already found a local supplier of butyl tape. I want to retain the option of possible removal, perhaps in another 20+ years, although it won't be me doing it, so I'll keep away from the Tigerseal type products. Mike
  12. In prepping body panels for spraying I have found there are a number of internal locations where LR used a non-hardening, black mastic to seal between panels, particularly where aluminium/steel contact could occur. What is this, please, and where can I buy it, or what is an acceptable alternative? Many thanks for any info and suggestions. Mike
  13. Supply of air for spray painting

    My compressor manual says that it does 8.5cfm at 90 psig. It cuts out at 120 psig and back in at 90 psig. I'm hoping that the big cylinder I've included will give me the capacity I need. If not, it might just be time for bevvy while I wait for it to recharge. Mike
  14. Hot dip galvanized old chassis

    A very good point, BW, about internal corrosion. Apart from an ultrasonic thickness meter, and I just don't have one, I suppose the only tests for internal corrosion are the good and trusty hammer and screwdriver tests. Mike
  15. Supply of air for spray painting

    OK, thanks, all, for the comments. I was going by some Youtube vids that show the pressure regulator immediately upstream of the spray gun. I agree, it is heavy. I don't understand the reference to "pigtails", since the pressure regulator must be in the main supply line. Please explain, for the benefit of a geriatric! Mike