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Troll Hunter

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Troll Hunter last won the day on January 15 2020

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About Troll Hunter

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    Kaslo, BC, Canada

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  1. I agree with the above: a lovely piece of work. What are the blue rails in the photos? Sorry, but I just don't recognise them. Mike
  2. My LHS 1991 110 had/has all the heating and A/C exchangers in a box just forward of the bulkhead on the RHS. Air operated valves and levers controlled both fluid flows and air directions. There is/was no projection into the passenger foot well. Mike
  3. Hallelujah! Bulbs removed, and no finger surgery required. Achieved by holding the bulb holder in my bench vise, gently but firmly. I then used a small flat blade screwdriver between the base of the bulb and the bulb holder, and twisted the screwdriver while pulling on the bulb. Hey presto - out it came. I'll now order bulbs and bulb holders as required, since the bulb holders are over £3.00 each. Mike
  4. Thanks for your replies, Peaklander. My LR parts manual shows the bulb as RTC3635 and the holder as AEU2722, 13 of each required. That they are listed as separate items suggests to me that they should be separable, and they are listed as separate items on various web sites. I note that the ebay seller is one of the most expensive I've come across. On Brit-car, for example, the prices vary from £0.18 each to £1.95 for a pack of 10. Even a genuine LR item is only £1.95 each. Beware of ebay, it is frequently far from the cheapest! So, how do I avoid a visit to ER for finger surge
  5. 1991 110 CSW with 300 tdi engine I'm sorting my electrics and am currently analysing the dash warning light panel. I've found that a couple of the bulb holders don't have a bulb, and there's a coupe that have dud bulbs. My problem is that I cannot remove a dud bulb from a bulb-holder. Holding the bulb holder, I can twist the bulb, but no movement, I can pull the bulb, but no movement. How do I remove the bulb from the bulb holder without giving myself a significant fractured glass bulb wound? Mike
  6. Sorry, I think that this is wrong, but I'm prepared to be corrected Your wastegate is controlled by a spring, which is not affected by altitude, so the air to the engine will be at the the samepressure, regardless of elevation/altitude. My experience crossing the sierras in California (8000+ft) bears this out. Please don't confuse an N/A carburetted engine with a turbo- breathed engine. Mike
  7. When I worked in Vienna my regular time from work in Vienna to home (Conway, UK) was under twenty-four hours, including the channel crossing, in my 300 Tdi 110 CSW. Even long distances can be relatively stress-free, especially when you have an overdrive unit. Mike
  8. Mark Monkey posted; Purged the pump – I can hear the pump humming but no gurgling sounds or anything. Pump is receiving 12v on its live post relay. Surely this indicates that the supply line is not purged of air. I have had a similar situation on a non-LR motor. Having run out of diesel fuel, I added about 10 litres of diesel to the tank and bled the system at all possible points. This didn't solve the problem. The problem was that the inlet to the FIP was fractionally above the fuel level in the tank. Addition of a few more litres of fuel resolved the problem, and my machine sta
  9. That makes an average speed of just over 3mph. Perhaps it has a clock for clocking the mileage! Mike
  10. Back in the late 60's I had the only sports car in my life, a Lotus Elite Type 14 Super 95. It had a Coventry Climax high compression fire pump engine, twin SU carbs and from memory a compression ratio of 10.5:1, and at that time in UK you could get 100 octane virtually everywhere, and even 101 octane at some locations. Being single and then "rich" I used to buy the highest octane available. I don't recall any engine problems over the two or so years, 20,000+ miles, that I enjoyed it. I eventually sold it because of problems with the inboard rear brakes. As my daily driver I could not acc
  11. I think that this is what you are looking for: From memory, and mine's not great, the bolt right in the centre of the photo had a bare woven copper strap to the battery negative, although it does look as if there is an insulated earth cable on the bolt slightly lower and to the left. I can't remember where that went 🤔. Hope this helps. Mike
  12. Agree, if you can do it. It's very difficult to mount a circular fan body to a rectangular radiator matrix unless the circular fan body is larger than the radiator. Be interesting to try on a Defender radiator without modifying the bonnet. My point is that whatever dimensions and fittings, you have to minimise radiator by-passing and fan recirculation. Mike
  13. Thanks, Bowie69. All I've got to then is find a couple of fat friends. That shouldn't be too difficult! Mike
  14. My 1991 110CSW has the Boge kit and as far as I know it is still working. When my rebuild is finished I'll have to try to assess its effectiveness, but I'm not sure how! Mike
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