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Troll Hunter

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Troll Hunter last won the day on January 15

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About Troll Hunter

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    Kaslo, BC, Canada

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  1. Your galvanised chassis already has threaded sockets on it, quite a few. These have been drilled after galvanising, or if drilled before, then they have been re-tapped afterwards to remove the zinc that fouls the thread, and they are just bare steel. So, drilling a few additional holes for mounting pipe brackets is not going to significantly impact your chassis life, especially if protection measures above are taken. Mike
  2. I don't know how good helicoils are, but may be a new caliper would be a good idea, instead of relying on a modified item of critical safety gear. Mike
  3. I may be totally out to lunch, but you surely want to gently heat the caliper rather than the bolt. You need to expand the caliper to release the sheared bolt, rather than expand the steel of the bolt making it even more tightly gripped by the caliper. Mike
  4. I've no complaint about the S/S bolts and nuts, except that half the nuts were missing. It's the nut plates that were the problem. I tend to agree with Snagger, above, except that sending them back would cost me more than the refund! Mike
  5. After struggling for days, yes, days, to get my Defender doors refitted, I have at last identified the problem. I bought from Paddocks a S/S hinge bolt kit, PM017, that is supplied with new nut clips, so that there is a complete new installation. The problem is that these new clips are not as long as the old clips, see photo, and this significantly reduces the scope of vertical adjustment. Consequently, I was unable to get the front doors to close, let alone to align properly. Easy fix - use the new bolts with the old fixings. Wrong! The old fixings are 5/16 x 24 and the new fixings are
  6. If you don't like the look of the spot welds, assuming that you will be painting them, you could flush over the spot welds with a little body filler. Mike
  7. ^^...... or encapsulate them in silicone mastic. Mike
  8. No, they weren't done in situ, they were removed from the vehicle and done in the vise, pillar drill, etc., and then refitted. It's just that the request for photos came after I had refitted them, and I wasn't about to disassemble for no good reason. Mike
  9. You asked for photos, so here they are: Right front door, top hinge. Right front door, top hinge. Left front door, top hinge. One of the s/s bolts before cutting it down. I must admit that not being able to easily remove the hinge pin may be a disadvantage of this mod, but it should be possible by driving the hinge pin upwards. By replacing the hinge pins it reduced the slop at the hinge pin by about 1mm, that is, the gap between the two hinge parts, measured at the base of the hinge. Mike
  10. I should obviously watch Mythbusters as it would disabuse me of some of the bull**** that's around. I honestly believed that failure of the front UJ, particularly on the shorter front prop, could result in the prop digging into the road and lifting the vehicle. I'm very glad that that would not happen, and thank you putting me wise. Even so, UJ collapse could cause, and has caused, major damage, so the recommendation is still to get it replaced ASAP. Mike
  11. Both photos appear to show that a bearing cap has collapsed. Yes, replace ASAP, if not sooner. Continued use could result in total UJ collapse, and if it is a front UJ, of either prop shaft, major damage, and possible injury, could result as the prop shaft digs into the road and "pole vaults" the vehicle. Not good! Mike
  12. I have had this problem during my rebuild. First action was to measure to the top of my tyres, using a spirit level from the tyre to the tape, making sure that the vehicle is parked on a smooth, level surface. Also, I measured the length of each spring, from the bottom seat plate to the top securing ring. These two sets of measurements identified where the out-of alignment was occurring. Mainly, it was due to a difference in top-of-tyre-height. The tyre pressures had not been checked in the nearly four years of my strip down and rebuild, and were about 12psi different. Correcting this pre
  13. That's one more bit of bespoke bling that I don't think I need, but perhaps I'll have to think about it ....... That's an interesting solution to worn hinge pins, Snagger, but I've already followed a different solution. Having driven the hinge pins out I used a 5/16th drill through the top and centre sections and part way into the lower section. I had some 100mm long M8 stainless steel bolts, so I cut the threaded portion off (only about 25mm), chamfered the end of the unthreaded shaft, which was 7.75mm diam, and hammered it into the hinge to the bottom of the newly drilled diameter. T
  14. Thank you, everybody, for your responses. Since Canbus and ECU are foreign words to my 1991 Defender, it seems that I can put the switches in the most convenient places, in most instances. Mike
  15. I've been plagued, while trying to refit my side doors, by sloppy, worn hinges. In many forum posts members have complained of new hinges having even more play than their old ones that they want to replace. Is there any consensus on which makes/suppliers to avoid and which are worth spending my pennies with? I note that genuine LR replacements are about five times the cost of most aftermarket makes, except, of course, the insanely expensive Optimill options. But, if the genuine LR ones are the only ones worth buying, then I'll have to bite the bullet. All advice and opinions will be g
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