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Troll Hunter

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Troll Hunter last won the day on February 4

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About Troll Hunter

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    Kaslo, BC, Canada

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  1. That's an interesting situation because AT2s appear to be available over here - Canada, but I haven't tried actually buying any. https://generaltire.com/sites/default/files/tires/files/GT18_Grabber-AT2_Tire_Spec_Pages.pdf On the General Grabber site I also searched for AT3, but it came up with zero hits. So, perhaps over here the current AT2 is the Euro AT3. Just different marketing for different countries. Mike
  2. I'm surprised that nobody has mentioned General Grabber AT2 . I used these from 2009 to 2016 and covered ~150,000 km and they still have 4+mm tread. Yes, it was mainly on tarmac,, but did include a significant dirt road mileage. They are 265/75/R16s and I must admit that although they carry the winter tyre motif, 3 peaks and a snow flake, I did not like them in snow and ice. For proper winter driving I'v been using Michelin Alpine winter tyres. But going back to tyres for 3 season use I'll very happily be buying GG AT2 again. Mike
  3. I hope also that others can learn from my "blindness". Yes, check, check, and check again! I didn't ☹️. Mike
  4. OK, guys, my fault entirely. 😡 I had not appreciated that the two dished metal washers, above and below the rubber/poly bush, had slightly different diameter holes for the top shaft of the damper to pass through. Of course, I had them the wrong way around, with the washer with the smaller hole below the top bush. This prevented the damper shaft extending sufficiently to accept the bush, the upper washer and then the nut. Getting the washers the correct way around solved the problem. Both dampers are now correctly installed. Many thanks to all who have provided thoughts or advise, and also to those who had puzzled, but to no avail. Mike
  5. Mo, Please accept my humblest apologies. I didn't realise that I was becoming so North Americanised! I'm a Brit, and have been here only ten years. This is very serious. I must obviously mind my Ps and Qs and ensure not to offend sensitive souls, like yourself, with the local abbreviations and spellings, which I do try to avoid. I promise to attempt to do better in future. Have a good day! Mike
  6. I've started to rebuild my CSW and am currently attempting to fit the front springs and dampers to a bare chassis. I seem unable to compress the spring enough, even with coil spring compressors, to get sufficient of the damper top thread through the top of the conical bracket. I'm suspecting that I need the added weight of the engine and transmission on the chassis to compress both front springs sufficiently for me to get the damper top mounting rubber bush fitted. I only have one set of coil spring compressors so I cannot compress the other front spring simultaneously. I'm not yet ready to refit the engine, and I don't really want to change my programme, but if I have not screwed up, then I may have to. Any confirmation, one way or the other, or hints on how I should proceed will be very much appreciated. Many thanks in advance. Mike
  7. As in the title. I'm trying to develop the new wiring I need for my rebuild, and studying the various wiring diagrams that I have I cannot see any device that indicates that the glow plugs have reached design temperature and that the ignition key should be advanced to "START". I note that the "Low temperature " warning light comes off the same supply as the glow plugs. What am I missing? Does the system rely upon the increase in glow plug temperature increasing their resistance so that the warning light eventually comes on when the glow plugs have reached their design temperature? Many thanks in advance for throwing any light on this problem. Mike
  8. An old thread, I know, and I came across it while searching for some glow plug info, but it's most frustrating when a thread is left unfinished!!! I know the original problem was with glow plugs, and it seems to have been sorted, but what were the cause and cure for your failing battery? Mike
  9. With a 1" difference from side to side obviously at least one axle is not perpendicular to the chassis. It would probably be worth taking various chassis to axle measurements to try to identify the culprit(s). You don't want to apply corrective measures to the wrong axle end, and end up with the two wheel base measurements the same, but both axles non-perpendicular to the chassis. That could make steering very interesting! Whilst doing my ground up rebuild, still in progress, I recently checked my chassis alignment by using a plumb bob from various chassis locations to the garage concrete floor, chalk marking the concrete, and then measuring between marks. I found this was much easier than trying to measure directly on the chassis, even with the help of SWMBO. The result was a mis-alignment of just under a 3/16" on my front axle, and identical measurements on the rear axle. Since I have never experienced any steering issues I don't intend to take any action. I assume that this discrepancy is within the LR build tolerance. Best of luck with your detective work. Mike
  10. Glad I'm not on, and don't look at FB.
  11. I don't know where this was filmed, but it seems a lot of work to ease a parking problem. Then,, perhaps it was made just because .........! It does limit use of the rear door somewhat. http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/twisting-wheels-parallel-parking-gif-72915?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=08-12-19#post139761 Mike
  12. Many thanks, Retroanaconda. That's exactly the info I was looking for. Mike
  13. Thanks, Stellaghost, but as I said, what I need is the thread detail. Mike
  14. Hi, all, As in the title. My parts catalogue (item 8, p. 435) gives the nut that fits the end of the radius arm as part no. NY120041L, which I read as Nyloc, metric, 20mm diameter, 04 ??, zinc passivated. What I need, please, is some kind person who has a radius arm off vehicle to measure the thread size/pitch, since it obviously isn't 4mm pitch. Many thanks for all or any help. Mike
  15. So, it seems that I'm a little late to the party, but very glad that I've found this wonderful lady's site. Mike
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