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Troll Hunter

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Troll Hunter last won the day on January 15

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    Kaslo, BC, Canada

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  1. I don't know about that. One thread on this forum IIRC stated that silicones burn off at a lower temperature than zinc melts,so, unless the ash/residue prevents zinc adhesion it won't work. Mike
  2. As I said in another thread recently, to make your post galvanising life easier, at this stage identify every threaded hole or male item, both thread size (diameter and tpi) and type (SAE or metric). Once items come back covered in zinc identification can be difficult. Tapped holes will require drilling out and re-tapping, and male threads will need addressing with the correct thread file as a minimum. Although I've got both SAE and metric tap and die sets up to 12mm and 1/2" I have still had to buy additional re-threading items. Mike
  3. ^^^ Agreed. Searching Amazon.ca I found this: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07F3CX7B3/ref=pe_3034960_233709270_TE_item. Considerably cheaper than Blue Sea, and I just hope it's not the local equivalent of a Britpart quality component. I'll report if there are any deficiencies. Mike
  4. Many thanks for the details and the link. They're expensive, but allow a really tidy wiring arrangement. I think you've just sold a couple of these, a 12-way and probably a 6-way. Mike
  5. I seem to remember a post some time ago that stated that Britpart is a major wholesale/wharehousing operation, and is a major supplier of parts to HM armed forces, possibly holding impressed stock, and that supplying parts for Land Rovers was a very minor part of their business. Also, that BP is a wholesaler/retailer, but not a manufacturer. Is this true, or does BP only need to improve its purchasing QA procedures and change its business model so that it is not scraping the bottom of the barrel on price , and hence quality? Mike
  6. I really like this arrangement, and I wish that my wiring will look so good, but what is the module on the right hand end of the fuse box, the item with the yellow clip? I've been trying to work out the wiring. There's going to be supply and ground for each relay coil, and then there's going to be switched power in and out of each relay. I assume that switched +12V comes to a bus-bar at bottom left which feeds the fuses, but from there, which wires are which? I hope some electroadult can help me😕. Mike
  7. Since you are having parts galvanised please learn from my experience. Make a note of every threaded hole, and the thread type/size before sending to be dipped. I didn't, and have spent a lot of time re-tapping blocked threads, some of which are SAE/Imperial and others are metric. The only way to tell, definitively, is to measure the bolt that came out. Even the LR Parts catalogue is frequently wrong. I have SAE and metric tap and die sets up to 1/2" and 12mm, but have had to buy a number of each for larger sizes. Sorry I can't help with your cleaning problem, but best of luck with your galvanising. Mike
  8. About 1" wide should be OK, and it could be with bristles, natural or nylon, or even a paint pad, and probably with a wooden handle, although a plastic handle would be acceptable. As always, different strokes for ........ Bye! Mike
  9. It seems there are conflicting statements in various publications, but the arguments above for having both sliding sections at the transfer box end of the props sounds like good sense to me, so that is how I'll be refitting mine, when the time comes. Mike
  10. My Land Rover 1987 110 Parts Catalogue, pp. 399, 400, show the front shaft sliding joint towards the diff and the rear shaft towards the t'box. On my 1991 110 they are installed that way. Mike
  11. Many thanks, Peaklander. This document obviously applies to a later model Defender than mine, 1991, but it is still relevant. These points are obviously in addition to the other points detailed by western on Tuesday. Mike
  12. Thank you, both, for putting me right - vaseline first, than tighten up. Mike
  13. Thank you, both, for sorting this for me. I took hundreds of photos and made copious notes during the strip down, but it seems that no matter how many photos and notes one makes there will always be something that gets missed! Again, many thanks. Mike
  14. I've got a bracket mounted double fuel line clip (supply and return) which I can't find the correct location for. My LR 1987 110 Parts Catalogue has a page dedicated to the fuel lines for a 300Tdi, p. 543, but although there is a part number key, there is no diagram to which it refers. So, does anybody have a copy of the missing diagram or can anybody tell me where it should go, please? Mike
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