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Troll Hunter

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Troll Hunter last won the day on January 5

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About Troll Hunter

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    Kaslo, BC, Canada

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  1. Troll Hunter

    TD5 Defender will not start!

    PrettyGood and Kitai, I see that neither of you have included your location, not even your country, in your profile. This makes it impossible for any Forum member to offer you practical on-site help, and they might be just down the road from you! Please, think about adding these details to your profiles. Only you will benefit. Mike
  2. Troll Hunter

    defender 200tdi engine mounts

    I meant to post the following email exchange earlier, but old age overtook me - I forgot! Anyway, here it is, from 08th April 2018. First, my email to Glencoyne Quote: I have read glowing reports of your "softer" engine mounts for 200Tdi engines, particularly on the LR4x4.com forum. Despite a number of your advert headlines claiming to have mounts for 300Tdi engines, the details, unfortunately, go on to specify that they are not for the 300Tdi. So, are you able to offer any recommendation for softer mounts for the 300Tdi and R380 gearbox, please? Unquote. And the reply I received. Quote: I have now renewed that listing several times, sold around 80 pairs through it, and neither I nor anyone else has noticed the error in the heading. Thank you very much for pointing it out. As for your question, 300TDi mounts are something I have wanted to do for a while but will be a bit more complicated as they are vehicle-specific rather than a generic bobbin-type mount. So the tooling cost for a small run would be prohibitive. I will be looking at designing an adapter to fit between the engine mount and chassis bracket, allowing the 200TDi mounts to be used, but given my workload at the moment I have no idea when I will be able to design, fabricate and test this. The gearbox mounts are something else again and I am not sure whether there will be room for an adapted 200 mount to fit there,I haven't looked at it yet. For now I am relying on good second hand original engine mounts for 300s, the aftermarket replacements I have tried are horrible. Bearmach gearbox mounts on the other hand seem OK. Kind regards, Richard Hall Unquote I have also followed up directly with Bearmach and my enquiry and their response is below. Quote: Subject: 300 Tdi engine mounts Comment: My vehicle has been fitted with a 300Tdi engine and R380 gearbox. I've read good reports on LR4x4.com fora of the softer rubber engine/gearbox mounts supplied by Bearmach. I currently suffer gross engine/gearbox vibration in the cabin. Please can you recommend the appropriate mounts for both items. Many thanks. Unquote And their reply. Quote: Thank you for your email, i can confirm that the Bearmach branded Mounts are made of a softer rubber that absorbs and minimizes the vibration of the engine. please see links below for the correct mounts for your 300TDi https://bearmach.com/engine-mounting-ntc9416 Kind Regards, Harry Birnie Unquote I am awaiting their response on R380 mounts and will update when I receive it. Mike
  3. Troll Hunter

    Advice wanted on annealing LR aluminium alloy panels

    Thank you, all, for your replies and advice, and specially to you, Mudmonkey, for the video. It appears that there is nothing significantly different in annealing LR panels than standard aluminium. Mike
  4. I have to rebuild most of the frame for one of the rear side doors on my 110 CSW due to raging corrosion. To do the necessary welding I've taken the skin off the frame by carefully lifting the folded over edges. However, the skin around the window aperture was glued as well as folded on and I had to unfold the edge almost 180 degrees to be able to cut through the adhesive. Consequently, the originally flat external surface around the window is now dished and the original fold lines are very prominent ridges. I believe that the metal has work hardened and I do not want to risk it cracking when I fold it again around the new frame. I've read numerous accounts of annealing aluminium using ordinary hand soap as a temperature indicator, but are there any special tips or things to look out for when annealing Landy panels, please? Being located in Canada, buying a replacement door is not a realistic option, and I certainly don't want to have to make a new skin as well as a rebuilt frame. Many thanks in advance for any and all advice from the forum. Mike
  5. Troll Hunter

    Which is best ?

    I see that in Scott90's poat that he has a white bonnet. I've had lights fitted on the front of my roof rack and they are virtually unusable due to the glare thrown up from the white bonnet. I don't know if Scotts90 ha any glare reducing facility, but please be very careful about mounting lights on your roof rack. Mike
  6. Troll Hunter

    New Work bench advice

    I agree with the posters above that a metal top, although not essential, is highly desirable. It's easy to keep clean and good for fabbing on. A wooden top tends to absorb any spilled fluids, and metal particles, from grinding for example, tend to get embedded and generate later contamination and grief. My bench top is 24" wide 3/4" plywood with a 16ga. mild steel cover, and I love it! (Sorry, that's getting a bit OT!) Mike
  7. Troll Hunter

    Heated Washer Jets

    The other issue, which is really difficult to do anything about, is that under the laws of physics the methyl alcohol will tend to evaporate from the screen wash at the very tip of the spray nozzle. In theory, at least, this could raise the freezing point of the liquid right at the tip to a value above the ambient temperature, and hence it would freeze, although any ice film could be very thin, and easily broken/washed away, when the spray is next used. One option to counter this, if it proves to be a problem, would be to have a NRV in the supply line just inside the bonnet, so that that line section benefits from engine compartment heat, and add a very small drain hole immediately above the NRV. This would allow screenwash to drain from the washer tip, thus preventing freezing. Admittedly, the small drain hole would allow some loss of screenwash when the washers are actually being used, but provided the hole is really small, this should not be a significant loss. Mike
  8. Troll Hunter

    Rubber seal between windscreen and bulkhead

    Many thanks, western. This is the same info as Brit-car sent me this morning. I reckon that the 17cm dimension should be 1.7cm, ie the thickness of the seal. The length you quote is about what I was hoping for. I just don't understand how they can get such basic information so wrong! I have sent a supplementary email to them asking for clarification. Grrrrr! Rant over. Mike
  9. Vehicle: 1991 110 CSW, VIN: SALLDHMV8HA905197 My LR 1987 One Ten Parts Catalogue shows this item, p. 787 item 21, to be part number ALR1737, and it is the full width of the screen. However, looking up this part number on a number of supplier websites comes up with several part numbers that have superceded it, but they are all in the range 20 - 25cm length. Is the LR catalogue wrong, and am I looking at the wrong part number? Please can you point me in the right direction? Many thanks, in advance. Mike
  10. Troll Hunter

    Replacement doors bonnets bulkhead

    Repair of the ccurved sections is not that difficult. I had zero metal fabrication or welding experience but did an acceptable job. The write up is here: Page 2 shows the rot around the curved door sections and pp. 5, 6 show the repairs. Hope this encourages you to persevere. Mike
  11. Troll Hunter

    depressed top surfaces of Defender wings.

    Thanks. I'll follow up. Mike
  12. Troll Hunter

    depressed top surfaces of Defender wings.

    Thanks for the pic, Eightpot. Yes, they look very good and I think that they will be the answer for me, provided I can get a reasonable quote for the freight. Mike
  13. Troll Hunter

    Difflock linkage eyebolt LT230T

    Since I've got my engine and transmission out ATM I did the very same adjustment a couple of weeks ago. I've just measured the distance, as you asked in the OP, and it is 56mm. I did find that even a single thread difference in or out on the pivot pin made the link non-operational. I could engage one gear, but not disengage and engage the other. I admit, I do need new plastic washers/bushes, Item 2 in the figure, and these will be fitted before I refit the bits. Replacing these may give me a little more wiggle room in the adjustment. Mike
  14. Troll Hunter

    depressed top surfaces of Defender wings.

    Thank you, all, for your ideas and tips. Your pointer, Eightpot, looks like the dogs danglies, if I can get them here at a reasonable freight cost. One of the problems of getting the existing top surface flat again is that the skin has stretched, and my metal working skills are not up to shrinking it back. If I can get these panels I'll probably try glueing them to the original panels, with the wing, currently removed, upside down on a smooth concrete floor and a significant weight of sand bags inside it to try to get the two surfaces in contact. Optimistic, yes, so I'll also use countersunk screws or countersunk pop rivets, just to be sure. I'll post how I get on. In the meantime I've got a seriously corroded rear end door to perform major reconstructive surgery on. This might also get a brief report. Mike
  15. I'm doing a total rebuild of my 1991 110 CSW, and my query regards the front wings. Being vertically challenged, both wing tops are a little depressed due to me leaning on them when trying to access the engine compartment. Apart from fitting chequer plate wing tops, is there any other way to restore them to a more or less flat, horizontal state? I'm afraid that new LR or Bearmach panels are not an option ($$$$). Has anybody tried, for example, gluing a flat steel (?) panel beneath the aluminiumm wing top? Or should I consider a new flat ali panel on top of the present wing top? All views, comments and experiences will be gratefully received. Mike
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