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Troll Hunter

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Troll Hunter last won the day on October 17

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About Troll Hunter

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    Kaslo, BC, Canada

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  1. Regarding sizes of batteries, I found the attached size details some time ago. Hope somebody finds it useful. Mike Auto battery sizes.xlsx
  2. Tanuki, you said you fill yours with 75W80 GL5. Does the transfer box have any "yellow" metal, brass or bronze etc, in it, because I believe that GL5 is potentially damaging to these alloys, and that GL4 is recommended? Or have I got it wrong😕? Mike
  3. Peaklander, Many thanks. Your thread, and the others referenced therein, give me all the info I was looking for, and, of course, the photos help. Just got to get on with it now. Well, after I've helped SWMBO with preps for our annual Guy Fawkes celebration,, complete with bonfire and a guy, and plenty of liquid refreshment, of course. Tomorrow's another day😊😊! Thanks again for your response. Mike
  4. Thanks for the good try. These figures are present in my copy of the Parts Catalogue Land Rover 110 1987 Model. It appears that only the details of the routing for the 300Tdi, supposed to be on p. 543, is missing. Mike
  5. I'm at the stage of refitting the fuel lines in my rebuild and need some guidance, please. My vehicle was originally a V8, but now has a 300 Tdi engine. When the swap was done, by others, I believe that new fuel lines were installed in compliance with the LR 300Tdi fuel line installation. When I removed the lines, now nearly 3 years ago, I kept the supply and return lines together in their mounting clips. However, old age doesn't come alone, and I cannot remember the alignment of these lines. I believe that they ran along the top of the right chassis rail, but for the life of me I cannot remember their route from the near top, right hand side of the fuel tank to forward of the chassis cross member that is forward of the rear axle. So, I looked in my Parts Catalogue Land Rover 110 1987 Model Year, and on p. 543, there it is, Fuel system - Fuel pipes - 300Tdi. But the only problem is that there is no diagram. The key of diagram item numbers and LR part numbers is there, but no diagram☹️. Am I just unlucky in having a corrupted copy of this document, or is every copy of this document the same? Please, can somebody give me the details of the fuel line routing between tank and fuel lift pump? Many thanks, in advance, for any and all info received. Mike
  6. I've had 30mm spacers since 2009, for ~150k km and have never had any problems with nuts loosening or bearing/stub axle wear. I just check all wheel bearings roughly annually and adjust if necessary. I must admit, though, that when on a road trip - typically 10 km plus , I do take a spare set of wheel bearings, along with a replacement U-joint and various other spares. I've been running General Grabber AT2 165/75/R16 tires. These spacers allowed me to reduce the abysmal turning radius of the 110 and I haven't experienced any down side. Just my experience. Mike
  7. Apologies for hijacking your thread, but since I am in the early stages of rebuilding my 110 CSW this is a mod that I possibly should make at this stage, although I have no need to. Please can you give me the LR part numbers for what would be required to replace my existing standard Defender drop arm on a Gemmer power steering box. Also, is the straight drop arm fitted to all Discoverys, since they are relatively rare over here finding one of a specific year/model in a breaker's yard could involve quite a search. Many thanks, in advance, for these details. Mike
  8. Thank you, both, for your replies. Soutie, that website doesn't give any more info than the LR parts catalogue, unfortunately, but what I noticed as very useful is that they seem to give the dimensions of all bolts. I think I might be visiting for that info quite regularly. A very good info resource. Retroanaconda, Your description makes absolute sense to me, since I was meticulous in labelling and bagging all the bits as I took them off. A 29/32" hole mounted on a 1/2" shaft is a very peculiar design. Some engineer in LR obviously had a rush of carp to the brain when he came up with this brainwave design. Anyway, thank you, again, for restoring my confidence in my record keeping and parts control. I'll fit up and make sure that nut is TIGHT! Mike
  9. Looking very good! Why didn't I use electrolysis instead of paying for grit blasting? I suppose a bath, chemicals and a power supply for a complete chassis might have cost just as much! Mike
  10. I'm re-assembling my steering components after a ground up recon on my 110 CSW. It looks as if I've either lost,, thrown away, put very, very safe, or it's grown legs, but I cannot find the bush that I believe should be on the steering arm mounting (1987 110 Defender Parts Catalogue, p.435, Item 19) . This item fits to the tie bar (p. 455, Item 9), but apart from whatever should be there, I can't find any reference to a bush in the above parts manual. Or have I got it all wrong😟? Or horribly wrong☹️? I realise that no-one can find the errant part in my workshop, but hopefully someone can confirm that I'm fitting the components I still have correctly, and possibly supply a part number for any missing bits that seem to have gone walk-about. Many thanks, in advance, for any tips, hints or facts that are offered. Guffaws will be ignored. Mike
  11. Yes, lo-fi, you're right on it. Far too many threads have been compromised by PB, or similar, changing rules or just going belly up. If members really want their contributions to be available long term then they really should upload them to the forum or have their own web site where members can visit. As previously said, a great write up and you should be very pleased with the result after 2 years of use. Mike
  12. Good for you, well done, but where are the on-forum piccies? Mike
  13. I had most of the above items galvanised. The front radius arms, third from the top, will require the chassis end threads to be recut. This will require a 20mm x 2.5mm die, not usually included in the typical tap and die set. The rear upper arms, top two items, which I reinstalled today, are quite difficult. I found that installing all the fixings, but keeping them loose, and not locating the tapered bottom fixing of the levelling unit into the fulcrum bracket, LR 1987 110 Parts Catalogue p. 440, Item 16, until the two bolts, same page, Item 17, are installed. During galvanising the threaded hole in the underside of the chassis for fixing the canvas strap to the levelling unit became totally blocked with zinc. This needed drilling out with a 5mm drill and then the thread recut with a 6mm x 1mm tap. The rear radius arms, bottom of the photo, will also need the threaded ends to be recut, another 20mm x 2.5mm die job. Also, of course, all the non-threaded holes, such as on the axle ends of the upper rear suspension arms and the rear shock absorber chassis brackets, in the fifth row down, will need the holes drilled out to clear zinc, and maybe paint. I had the front shock absorber brackets, p. 436 Item 7, galvanised. When they were removed from the zinc bath they were hung with the narrow end down. This resulted in molten zinc accumulating in the narrow end, the top when installed,. This resulted in the shock absorber bushes not seating properly. To fix this I had to use a propane torch, called a Tiger Torch over here, to heat the end of the bracket to melt out the excess zinc. If you get the chance, specify hanging by the narrow, normal top, end. I hope my experiences, and grief, may help you, or anybody else doing a chassis galv exercise. Mike
  14. Looks to be an interesting project. I'm a little ahead of you in my ground up rebuild, having recently started refitting chassis and axle components. One tip for you: before you start any painting on the chassis make a note/photo, of every threaded socket on the chassis. There are quite a lot, and some are metric and some are UNF/UNC. LR obviously dipped into various parts bins when assembling Defenders! Making a "before" record will help you with finding the correct tap to later clean the threads. For anybody doing an existing chassis galvanising job this is especially important. Don't ask me how I know😡, but I'm very glad I've got a good selection of quality taps, and dies. Regarding chassis internal corrosion, I have used Eastwood's Internal Frame Coating Aerosol, https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-frame-coating-14oz-aerosol.html?utm_content=internal frame coating. I used a total of 5 tins, and this gave me 3 - 4 coats on all internal sections. Not too messy a job, and it dries/cures very quickly, so no risk of later drips, etc. How good it'll turn out to be, only time ...... If I'm still around when it fails, I'll come back and revive this post! Mike
  15. That's an interesting situation because AT2s appear to be available over here - Canada, but I haven't tried actually buying any. https://generaltire.com/sites/default/files/tires/files/GT18_Grabber-AT2_Tire_Spec_Pages.pdf On the General Grabber site I also searched for AT3, but it came up with zero hits. So, perhaps over here the current AT2 is the Euro AT3. Just different marketing for different countries. Mike
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