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Troll Hunter

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by Troll Hunter

  1. Tanuki, you said you fill yours with 75W80 GL5. Does the transfer box have any "yellow" metal, brass or bronze etc, in it, because I believe that GL5 is potentially damaging to these alloys, and that GL4 is recommended? Or have I got it wrong😕? Mike
  2. Peaklander, Many thanks. Your thread, and the others referenced therein, give me all the info I was looking for, and, of course, the photos help. Just got to get on with it now. Well, after I've helped SWMBO with preps for our annual Guy Fawkes celebration,, complete with bonfire and a guy, and plenty of liquid refreshment, of course. Tomorrow's another day😊😊! Thanks again for your response. Mike
  3. Thanks for the good try. These figures are present in my copy of the Parts Catalogue Land Rover 110 1987 Model. It appears that only the details of the routing for the 300Tdi, supposed to be on p. 543, is missing. Mike
  4. I'm at the stage of refitting the fuel lines in my rebuild and need some guidance, please. My vehicle was originally a V8, but now has a 300 Tdi engine. When the swap was done, by others, I believe that new fuel lines were installed in compliance with the LR 300Tdi fuel line installation. When I removed the lines, now nearly 3 years ago, I kept the supply and return lines together in their mounting clips. However, old age doesn't come alone, and I cannot remember the alignment of these lines. I believe that they ran along the top of the right chassis rail, but for the life of me I cannot remember their route from the near top, right hand side of the fuel tank to forward of the chassis cross member that is forward of the rear axle. So, I looked in my Parts Catalogue Land Rover 110 1987 Model Year, and on p. 543, there it is, Fuel system - Fuel pipes - 300Tdi. But the only problem is that there is no diagram. The key of diagram item numbers and LR part numbers is there, but no diagram☹️. Am I just unlucky in having a corrupted copy of this document, or is every copy of this document the same? Please, can somebody give me the details of the fuel line routing between tank and fuel lift pump? Many thanks, in advance, for any and all info received. Mike
  5. I've had 30mm spacers since 2009, for ~150k km and have never had any problems with nuts loosening or bearing/stub axle wear. I just check all wheel bearings roughly annually and adjust if necessary. I must admit, though, that when on a road trip - typically 10 km plus , I do take a spare set of wheel bearings, along with a replacement U-joint and various other spares. I've been running General Grabber AT2 165/75/R16 tires. These spacers allowed me to reduce the abysmal turning radius of the 110 and I haven't experienced any down side. Just my experience. Mike
  6. Apologies for hijacking your thread, but since I am in the early stages of rebuilding my 110 CSW this is a mod that I possibly should make at this stage, although I have no need to. Please can you give me the LR part numbers for what would be required to replace my existing standard Defender drop arm on a Gemmer power steering box. Also, is the straight drop arm fitted to all Discoverys, since they are relatively rare over here finding one of a specific year/model in a breaker's yard could involve quite a search. Many thanks, in advance, for these details. Mike
  7. Thank you, both, for your replies. Soutie, that website doesn't give any more info than the LR parts catalogue, unfortunately, but what I noticed as very useful is that they seem to give the dimensions of all bolts. I think I might be visiting for that info quite regularly. A very good info resource. Retroanaconda, Your description makes absolute sense to me, since I was meticulous in labelling and bagging all the bits as I took them off. A 29/32" hole mounted on a 1/2" shaft is a very peculiar design. Some engineer in LR obviously had a rush of carp to the brain when he came up with this brainwave design. Anyway, thank you, again, for restoring my confidence in my record keeping and parts control. I'll fit up and make sure that nut is TIGHT! Mike
  8. Looking very good! Why didn't I use electrolysis instead of paying for grit blasting? I suppose a bath, chemicals and a power supply for a complete chassis might have cost just as much! Mike
  9. I'm re-assembling my steering components after a ground up recon on my 110 CSW. It looks as if I've either lost,, thrown away, put very, very safe, or it's grown legs, but I cannot find the bush that I believe should be on the steering arm mounting (1987 110 Defender Parts Catalogue, p.435, Item 19) . This item fits to the tie bar (p. 455, Item 9), but apart from whatever should be there, I can't find any reference to a bush in the above parts manual. Or have I got it all wrong😟? Or horribly wrong☹️? I realise that no-one can find the errant part in my workshop, but hopefully someone can confirm that I'm fitting the components I still have correctly, and possibly supply a part number for any missing bits that seem to have gone walk-about. Many thanks, in advance, for any tips, hints or facts that are offered. Guffaws will be ignored. Mike
  10. Yes, lo-fi, you're right on it. Far too many threads have been compromised by PB, or similar, changing rules or just going belly up. If members really want their contributions to be available long term then they really should upload them to the forum or have their own web site where members can visit. As previously said, a great write up and you should be very pleased with the result after 2 years of use. Mike
  11. Good for you, well done, but where are the on-forum piccies? Mike
  12. I had most of the above items galvanised. The front radius arms, third from the top, will require the chassis end threads to be recut. This will require a 20mm x 2.5mm die, not usually included in the typical tap and die set. The rear upper arms, top two items, which I reinstalled today, are quite difficult. I found that installing all the fixings, but keeping them loose, and not locating the tapered bottom fixing of the levelling unit into the fulcrum bracket, LR 1987 110 Parts Catalogue p. 440, Item 16, until the two bolts, same page, Item 17, are installed. During galvanising the threaded hole in the underside of the chassis for fixing the canvas strap to the levelling unit became totally blocked with zinc. This needed drilling out with a 5mm drill and then the thread recut with a 6mm x 1mm tap. The rear radius arms, bottom of the photo, will also need the threaded ends to be recut, another 20mm x 2.5mm die job. Also, of course, all the non-threaded holes, such as on the axle ends of the upper rear suspension arms and the rear shock absorber chassis brackets, in the fifth row down, will need the holes drilled out to clear zinc, and maybe paint. I had the front shock absorber brackets, p. 436 Item 7, galvanised. When they were removed from the zinc bath they were hung with the narrow end down. This resulted in molten zinc accumulating in the narrow end, the top when installed,. This resulted in the shock absorber bushes not seating properly. To fix this I had to use a propane torch, called a Tiger Torch over here, to heat the end of the bracket to melt out the excess zinc. If you get the chance, specify hanging by the narrow, normal top, end. I hope my experiences, and grief, may help you, or anybody else doing a chassis galv exercise. Mike
  13. Looks to be an interesting project. I'm a little ahead of you in my ground up rebuild, having recently started refitting chassis and axle components. One tip for you: before you start any painting on the chassis make a note/photo, of every threaded socket on the chassis. There are quite a lot, and some are metric and some are UNF/UNC. LR obviously dipped into various parts bins when assembling Defenders! Making a "before" record will help you with finding the correct tap to later clean the threads. For anybody doing an existing chassis galvanising job this is especially important. Don't ask me how I know😡, but I'm very glad I've got a good selection of quality taps, and dies. Regarding chassis internal corrosion, I have used Eastwood's Internal Frame Coating Aerosol, https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-frame-coating-14oz-aerosol.html?utm_content=internal frame coating. I used a total of 5 tins, and this gave me 3 - 4 coats on all internal sections. Not too messy a job, and it dries/cures very quickly, so no risk of later drips, etc. How good it'll turn out to be, only time ...... If I'm still around when it fails, I'll come back and revive this post! Mike
  14. That's an interesting situation because AT2s appear to be available over here - Canada, but I haven't tried actually buying any. https://generaltire.com/sites/default/files/tires/files/GT18_Grabber-AT2_Tire_Spec_Pages.pdf On the General Grabber site I also searched for AT3, but it came up with zero hits. So, perhaps over here the current AT2 is the Euro AT3. Just different marketing for different countries. Mike
  15. I'm surprised that nobody has mentioned General Grabber AT2 . I used these from 2009 to 2016 and covered ~150,000 km and they still have 4+mm tread. Yes, it was mainly on tarmac,, but did include a significant dirt road mileage. They are 265/75/R16s and I must admit that although they carry the winter tyre motif, 3 peaks and a snow flake, I did not like them in snow and ice. For proper winter driving I'v been using Michelin Alpine winter tyres. But going back to tyres for 3 season use I'll very happily be buying GG AT2 again. Mike
  16. I hope also that others can learn from my "blindness". Yes, check, check, and check again! I didn't ☹️. Mike
  17. OK, guys, my fault entirely. 😡 I had not appreciated that the two dished metal washers, above and below the rubber/poly bush, had slightly different diameter holes for the top shaft of the damper to pass through. Of course, I had them the wrong way around, with the washer with the smaller hole below the top bush. This prevented the damper shaft extending sufficiently to accept the bush, the upper washer and then the nut. Getting the washers the correct way around solved the problem. Both dampers are now correctly installed. Many thanks to all who have provided thoughts or advise, and also to those who had puzzled, but to no avail. Mike
  18. Mo, Please accept my humblest apologies. I didn't realise that I was becoming so North Americanised! I'm a Brit, and have been here only ten years. This is very serious. I must obviously mind my Ps and Qs and ensure not to offend sensitive souls, like yourself, with the local abbreviations and spellings, which I do try to avoid. I promise to attempt to do better in future. Have a good day! Mike
  19. I've started to rebuild my CSW and am currently attempting to fit the front springs and dampers to a bare chassis. I seem unable to compress the spring enough, even with coil spring compressors, to get sufficient of the damper top thread through the top of the conical bracket. I'm suspecting that I need the added weight of the engine and transmission on the chassis to compress both front springs sufficiently for me to get the damper top mounting rubber bush fitted. I only have one set of coil spring compressors so I cannot compress the other front spring simultaneously. I'm not yet ready to refit the engine, and I don't really want to change my programme, but if I have not screwed up, then I may have to. Any confirmation, one way or the other, or hints on how I should proceed will be very much appreciated. Many thanks in advance. Mike
  20. As in the title. I'm trying to develop the new wiring I need for my rebuild, and studying the various wiring diagrams that I have I cannot see any device that indicates that the glow plugs have reached design temperature and that the ignition key should be advanced to "START". I note that the "Low temperature " warning light comes off the same supply as the glow plugs. What am I missing? Does the system rely upon the increase in glow plug temperature increasing their resistance so that the warning light eventually comes on when the glow plugs have reached their design temperature? Many thanks in advance for throwing any light on this problem. Mike
  21. An old thread, I know, and I came across it while searching for some glow plug info, but it's most frustrating when a thread is left unfinished!!! I know the original problem was with glow plugs, and it seems to have been sorted, but what were the cause and cure for your failing battery? Mike
  22. With a 1" difference from side to side obviously at least one axle is not perpendicular to the chassis. It would probably be worth taking various chassis to axle measurements to try to identify the culprit(s). You don't want to apply corrective measures to the wrong axle end, and end up with the two wheel base measurements the same, but both axles non-perpendicular to the chassis. That could make steering very interesting! Whilst doing my ground up rebuild, still in progress, I recently checked my chassis alignment by using a plumb bob from various chassis locations to the garage concrete floor, chalk marking the concrete, and then measuring between marks. I found this was much easier than trying to measure directly on the chassis, even with the help of SWMBO. The result was a mis-alignment of just under a 3/16" on my front axle, and identical measurements on the rear axle. Since I have never experienced any steering issues I don't intend to take any action. I assume that this discrepancy is within the LR build tolerance. Best of luck with your detective work. Mike
  23. Glad I'm not on, and don't look at FB.
  24. I don't know where this was filmed, but it seems a lot of work to ease a parking problem. Then,, perhaps it was made just because .........! It does limit use of the rear door somewhat. http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/twisting-wheels-parallel-parking-gif-72915?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=08-12-19#post139761 Mike
  25. Many thanks, Retroanaconda. That's exactly the info I was looking for. Mike
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