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Troll Hunter

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by Troll Hunter

  1. Did you ever get further than hatching a plan? Mike
  2. While you are waiting, if the security key is not hardened, you could try drilling through the side wall of the security key, tap the hole and thread a bolt into the recess in the security nut. This may prevent the key turning. If it does, you've gained a day or two, but if not, wait for the new key to arrive! Mike
  3. Amps @ 13.8 Volts LENGTH OF WIRE American Wire Gauge (AWG) 0-4 ft. 4-7 ft. 7-10 ft. 10-13 ft. 13-16 ft. 16-19 ft. 19-22 ft. 0 – 10 16-ga. 16-ga. 14-ga. 14-ga. 12-ga. 10-ga. 10-ga. 10–15 14-ga. 14-ga. 14-ga. 12-ga. 10-ga. 8-ga. 8-ga. 15-20 12-ga. 12-ga. 12-ga. 12-ga. 10-ga. 8-ga. 8-ga. 20-35 12-ga. 10-ga. 10-ga. 10-ga. 10-ga. 8-ga. 8-ga. 35-50 10-ga. 10-ga. 10-ga. 8-ga. 8-ga. 8-ga. 6 or 4-ga. 50-65 10-ga. 10-ga. 8-ga. 8-ga. 6 or 4-ga. 6 or 4-ga. 4-ga. 65-85 10-ga. 8-ga. 8-ga. 6 or 4-ga. 6 or 4-ga. 4-ga. 4-ga. 85-105 8-ga. 8-ga. 6 or 4-ga. 4-ga. 4-ga. 4-ga. 4-ga. 105-125 8-ga. 8-ga. 6 or 4-ga. 4-ga. 4-ga. 4-ga. 2-ga. 125-150 8-ga. 6 or 4-ga. 4-ga. 4-ga. 2-ga. 2-ga. 2-ga. 150-200 6 or 4-ga. 4-ga. 4-ga. 2-ga. 2-ga. 1/0-ga. 1/0-ga. 200-250 4-ga. 4-ga. 2-ga. 2-ga. 1/0-ga. 1/0-ga. 1/0-ga. 250-300 4-ga. 2-ga. 2-ga. 1/0-ga. 1/0-ga. 1/0-ga. 2/0-ga. This is what I use, but I can't remember where I found it. It seems to work OK, with negligible voltage drop. Mike
  4. I'm about to install same duty wiring, and it will go under the floor rather than trying to crowd wires under the windscreen edge trims to access the inner roof gutter. Mike
  5. You could try one of these: https://taitatools.com/ Mike
  6. Any reindeer in the area? They obviously can't keep up by the time you change into third!
  7. I hardly think that a few minutes of running without the air filter is going to be detrimental. For this test you don't really need to go on the road. In my case the tick-over was fine, but as soon as I tried to rev I couldn't get above about 1500rpm, without being in gear, the engine was strangled. Removed the hose between air filter and turbo and the engine was back to normal. Mike
  8. My step-father was a Met police car driver and subsequently an RAC Approved driving instructor, a qualification that seems to have disappeared these days. He taught me exactly as Eightpot describes above. Read the traffic, no excessive acceleration or braking, and be in the right gear to move off. All the electronic gizmos on vehicles today may help the driver, but they do nothing to help the driver to acquire the skill of driving. If you need computer controlled parallel parking you shouldn't be in charge of a car. Sorry, rant over. Mike
  9. A very interesting thread. Several times it has been suggested that the air inlet piping to the turbo should be disconnected and the turbo allowed to breathe totally unrestricted. This test would indicate or remove a de-laminating rubber air inlet line as the problem. Despite these recommendations I have not seen the result of this easily performed test being reported, or have I missed it? I have suffered from this failure mode, and it resulted in the engine running normally at tick-over but lacking power when under load. The extent of loss of power would depend on the degree of de-lamination. Mike
  10. Surely these non-E10 responses should have been headed "OTT", or moved to a new thread. Sorry, but I tend to be a bit old fashioned on these issues, maybe because I'm now 78 y.o. But at least I stirred up a bit of conversation🙂. Mike
  11. This started out as an E10 petrol thread. What happened??? For the last n pages it's been only about fuel shortages! Should we have a "Bitch Forum"? Mike
  12. Many thanks, Peaklander. I obviously hadn't explored enough. By Sod's law the details I need haven't yet been covered - 1991, so I guess I'll just have to compromise and with whatever is there. Mike
  13. That's a great list for 1998 vehicles, and for some earlier years, as shown, but is there any equivalent list for earlier years, eg for the 200 and 300Tdi years, or even earlier?
  14. I like the idea and appreciate what's driving you. As Maverick mentioned the PAS pump, what about running a supply from that? It would need a suitable size-reduced line to limit flow/pressure, but since you're probably unlikely to need on-board air while travelling it should have no impact on the steering and the plumbing would be relatively simple. Mike
  15. Yep, Land Rovers are perverse, and gravity rules! Mike
  16. If the door skins are that bad, what are the steel door frames like? I had to do significant repairs to my side door frames some years ago, but then refitted the skins, write-up here: I have recently done the same for the rear end door. Again, the frame was rotted but the skin was still good. Mike
  17. I'm currently doing a complete rewire on my 110 CSW and to identify all cables I've bought, on eBay, a set of numbers, 0 to 9, and 100 of each. These are available in 1.5mm and 2.5mm cable diameters. I thread the cable through the relevant numbers and then cover them with transparent heat shrink. I do this at each end of virtually every cable so that I don't have to bother trying to follow/identify cables through a long bunch. I keep an up to date record of all numbered cables with the intention of a hard copy being included in my vehicle maintenance record. So far, this system seems to be working. Mike
  18. Owning a Land Rover, multi-meter competency is mandatory! Mike
  19. Many thanks, all, for your thoughts and suggestions, but being a lazy git, I like miketomcat's the best: I can put my bench mounted pillar drill on the concrete floor of the shop and position the clamped steel components - about 80 lbs - beneath the drill with a rotary burr fitted. This should prevent the burr from wandering and keep the holes aligned. Tomorrow's project, and I'll report back. I'll also invest in a new round file, or two, just in case the rotary burr doesn't cut the mustard! Mike
  20. Is this a Land Rover manufacturing defect? Who actually makes the 300Tdi, is it LR or some sub-contractor? Mike
  21. They could give you bragging rights that you've had a regrind and a hot time!
  22. As in the title. My holes don't quite line up between the two sheets, and the shapes of the components don't allow me to force them into alignment. It looks as if I have to extend one layer of holes at least a 1/4" into oblong slots. So, what is the easiest way to do this, please? I have available a number of power tools - drills, oscillating saws, reciprocating saws, angle grinders and a pneumatic impact chisel/hammer. I have a MIG welder, but no gas burning facility. I also have a number or round section manual files and a hacksaw. That's about the limit of my workshop! Can any of these be used to reduce the hard grind, literally, of filing by hand to extend nominally round drilled holes into oblong holes? Are there any specialised bits that can be used in any of my tools? Any advice will be gratefully accepted. Mike
  23. Factory fitted only on the rear of my 1991 110. It's the driver that needs one now! Mike
  24. In practical terms, what is wrong with fitting the thickest gasket regardless of what gasket came off? This way you know that the head is clear of piston contact, and yes, you will lose a little compression ratio, but is this a practical concern? Of course, if the block is skimmed then piston protrusion must be measured on each piston to ensure that that the gasket protects against contact. Mike
  25. Get well soon. This forum cannot afford to be without your input for very long. Mike
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