Jump to content

Troll Hunter

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Troll Hunter

  1. Troll Hunter

    over tight bearings

    First off, introduce your novice friend to the forum and let him/her ask their own questions. They will learn far more then than receiving second hand comments. Regarding the OP post, I will not comment. Mike
  2. Troll Hunter

    300tdi turbo inlet size

    I've just measured mine and it's 50mm diameter plus, of course, the diameter of the securing rim. Mike
  3. Troll Hunter

    Defender 110 Chassis Dimensions

    Can somebody help me, please? I've got the Defender Parts Catalogue and the Defender Workshop Manual, and they both contain drawings of the Defender 110 chassis, with what appears to be a set of dimensions, but I can't, for the life of me, make out how the dimensions in the list tie-up with the drawing. Are the lists screwed up, or is there some obscure encryption applied? Where can I get a drawing and set of dimensions that are reasonably easy to understand, please? Many thanks for all help, 'cos I'm done with head scratching! Mike Defender_110_Chassis.pdf
  4. Troll Hunter

    Snorkel bits

    Neil110, Many thanks for the effort you put in to supply this link Mike.
  5. Troll Hunter

    Running cool or wonky temperature gauge?

    As I think has been suggested earlier, the two tests to do are to put your thermostat in a saucepan of water and gradually heat the water. Use a cooking/toffee thermometer to monitor the water temperature. With a "good" thermostat you should see it opening at the lower set temperature and be completely open at the higher set temperature. Dailysleaze suggests these are 82 deg and 96 deg. for the TD5. The second test, as suggested by Jocklandjohn, is to check the actual temperatures of the engine water circuit by using an IR temperature gun. Once you know you have a "good" thermostat and that the water circuit temperatures are realistic, if you still have unreliable readings on your water temperature indicator, you then have the option of removing the water temperature sensor and gauge and testing them in a saucepan of boiling water, which almost anywhere in UK is pretty well 100 deg. C. If this proves you have a reliable sensor and gauge, then chase the earthing point issues. Mike
  6. Troll Hunter

    Snorkel bits

    neil110, are these manuals on line? If so, could you supply a link, please/ Mike
  7. I have recently had to drill out a seized bolt in my bulkhead. Not the easiest to get aligned, and, of course, I failed. Consequently I ended up with a slightly off-centre hole that was not aligned with the axis of the bolt. So, I was faced with a significant amount of filing with a rat-tail file to recover the original hole dimensions. I decided that a power file would be a great help. I believe that these are available in UK, but I've been unable to find one over here, so I decided to make my own. I already have a reciprocating saw, so I took an old saw blade and a rat tail file and started from there. After trimming both and slotting the file I had this, and after welding, and tidying the weld, it was far too crappy to show, my new tool was ready for use. And it works a treat. A very good time and effort saver at virtually zero cost. Mike
  8. Troll Hunter

    Breaker bar & impact sockets?

    As above. Forget the power tools and rely on basic physics. Mike
  9. Troll Hunter

    Home made reciprocating file

    Escape, I haven't tried that, but it sounds very interesting. It's on my to try list the next time I need to enlarge a hole. Mike
  10. Troll Hunter

    Recovery mods

    Hi, western, Apologies, I didn't thank you for putting up the photos of your rear recovery/tow points. I like the combination and will definitely be upgrading my ball only Dixon Bate set up when I get to that stage of my rebuild. I don't know if I'll go all the way with a NATO pintle, but will definitely get a height adjustable ball and pin set up. Mike
  11. Somewhere, and I cannot remember where, or even if it was on this forum, I have seen a list of LR thread codes that allow one to identify the length, diameter and tpi of bolts and screws. I've spent quite some time searching this forum, with no success. Please, can somebody point me to this table. I'm at the stage of cleaning excess zinc from my galvanised bulkhead and need to retap various mounting points. If I was a lot smarter I would have identified the details of all threaded holes before galvanising.😡😣 Mike
  12. Troll Hunter

    LR bolt and screw thread codes

    Thank you, both, for your replies. That link, Red90, is just the dog's danglies. It's not the one that I remember seeing, but it's even better, and now downloaded and a valued file in my Land Rover folder. Thank you, again. Mike
  13. My starter motor, a Bosch unit, is getting very close to needing new brushes. I have replacements, which I believe are the correct part number, STC1246. However, on examining my starter the existing brushes appear to have the braided copper strap spot welded to the fixed contacts. How should I approach separating the braided copper strap attached to the fixed terminal to allow removal of the old brushes. The new brushes have a clip on the end of the braided copper strap which looks as if it should be crimped onto the fixed terminals. Many thanks for any and all suggestions. Mike
  14. Troll Hunter

    300Tdi starter motor replacement brushes

    Hi, Yes, I was hopeful, but failed. The problem of using a solder sucker on braid is that the combination of capilliary action and the texture of the braid makes it very difficult, if not impossible, to get an air-tight connection, and I just kept drawing air into the solder receiver. It might work on a much coarser braid, such as used in earthing straps, but for the fine threads in the brush braid it was hopeless. It's not surprising that braid is used as one of the methods of removing solder from soldered connections. Mike
  15. Troll Hunter

    300Tdi starter motor replacement brushes

    OK, job done. I used a die grinder with a small cutting disc to separate the copper braid of each brush from its terminal. I then soldered the new brush clips to the terminals. The only problem I had was when one of the new brushes hung below the solder terminal and the liquid solder flooded the braid and it set solid. I remedied this by re-using one of the braids from an old brush. Starter now rebuilt, refitted and tested successfully. Mike
  16. Troll Hunter

    300Tdi starter motor replacement brushes

    Bowie69, I agree, provided that would make a good enough and reliable contact, but first I've got to get the old braid off the terminals. How should I do this? Perhaps a small die grinder would do the job. Any other ideas, please? Mike
  17. Troll Hunter

    300Tdi starter motor replacement brushes

    Thanks for the replies so far. Here are some photos: First, a view of the copper strap to one of the old brushes. Here is a clever shot of both sides of the connection. Finally, here is a shot of the replacement STC1246, which I believe to be the correct part. The fixed parts that the copper straps attach to appear to be permanently installed with an epoxy(?) compound, not intended to be replaced. I can't be the first forum member to be replacing 300Tdi starter brushes, so any further thoughts and experience will be much appreciated. Mike
  18. Troll Hunter

    LT230 Rebuild issues

    Alternatively, go to a fishing tackle shop and buy a spring balance. I use a zero to 25kg one for virtually all my pre-load settings. Mike
  19. Troll Hunter

    So what did you get

    Bought myself a dash cam on Black Friday, and two days later my compressor decided to fubar itself, so I then bought a nice 220 volt, 13 amp, 60 gallon tank compressor with a 30% discount!😂👆👆👆 Obviously a long Black Friday! After that I didn't dare expect anything for Christmas, and I wasn't significantly disappointed. Oh yes, I did get a bottle of locally distilled vodka😁😁😁. It's a tough life, but we've just got to put up with it! Mike
  20. Thanks for the explanation and support for photos to be on the forum, not elsewhere, and I fully understand your reasons for putting them on Flickr. Mike
  21. Great photos of what looked to be a fun event, and most of them have nothing to do with Land Rovers, but having been bitten by Photobucket, please can we post thread photos on line, not somewhere that's currently free, but could well change. Sorry to p**s on your parade, but so many older threads, still highly relevant and valuable, are significantly devalued by photos no longer being available. Mike
  22. Troll Hunter

    intake manifold thread size

    Agreed. I've also done that. But I believe that the waste gate starts opening at about 9 - 10 psi boost, and is fully open at 15psi. I haven't worked out yet how to delay the opening of the waste gate without raising the final boost pressure. Perhaps a grown up can cover that mod. Mike
  23. Troll Hunter

    Alpine window hole cutting help

    I have the alpine windows out of my 1991 110 CSW and the front of the cut out is 38" measured from the front end of the rain gutter above the corner of the windscreen. Alternatively, the rear of the cut out is 39.5" measured from the rear of the roof. Hope this helps. Mike
  24. Troll Hunter

    Recovery mods

    Hi, western, Any chance of a photo of your rear set up, please? Thx. Mike
  25. Troll Hunter

    intake manifold thread size

    Hi, I did this exact addition myself a few years ago. I bought, I can't remember where from, perhaps ebay, a banjo fitting with a bayonet connection, see photo. I've just measured it and it's a 12x1.5 metric fitting. HTH. Mike

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy