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zardos

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Posts posted by zardos

  1. Ask for proof of posting (this is free to get) so you can get royal mail to investigate the losses and if they did not ask for it, then they have no proof that it was sent.

    If they have proof and royal mail cannot find it then you probably won't be able to claim on paypal but could get £20 from Royal mail.

    Note that Royal Mail don't consider it "lost" until 10 working days after due date (so 11 working days for first class)

  2. I would not worry about the voltage too much as the type of electronics used to convert the 12v to 5V for the usb connection are fairy flexible in input voltage and can usually convert anything from 7v upwards (assuming Nextbase have used the usual method of doing the conversion)

    I would use the multimeter to check that the bullet connector is getting 12v and then check the the earth point is good.

  3. If this holder has both fuses in then it won't matter which way around it is plugged in.

    Editted:-
    Looking at other hardwire kits this blue connector seem to be a bullet connector not a crimp as looks like in this picture.
    These instruction are for a crimp. If it is really a bullet connector you can skip the first test and try the probe between the plastic outer of the other side of the bullet and wire.
    Note a picture of the real installation in the fusebox would help direct where to test and what could possibly be the problem

    As for tests with a multi meter, first I would have it all plugged in as normal and ignition on and then test for 12v on the fusebox side of the blue connector in your picture (See green arrow in picture below)
    You should be able to get a multimeter positive probe between the wire and the blue plastic to touch the metal of the crimp connector inside. If your probe is too big, then a metal pin or I use welding wire makes a great extension to stick in this gap.
    If you have 12v here then the fuse box connector is working and may it is the blue crimp connector is not crimped properly.

    Then if you do have 12v at this point, this is were it becomes difficult, I would use the pin to spear the positive wire just after the blue connector and check for 12v.
    This is to check the crimp connector is working.

    If this second test is working then you probably have a defective voltage dropper (usually near the usb end of the wire there is a little black box which has circuitry to drop the 12v to 5v for the usb input to the camera)
    Note that when using the fag lighter wire this has it's own dropper

    image.png.9b62c7237fb07450c0e69335c7d783e4.png

     

  4. Looks expensive but if that includes gas, rod, metal and electricity it is probably not as expensive as you think compared to doing the same amount of practice at home.

    But if you just want a "taster" training then if you can not find anybody here then ask the same question on the Welding forum I linked to earlier.

  5. Sand mold and cast a new one (with some machining to clean up faces)

    Design an alternative? (There are probably a set number of keep features and these could be incorporated in to an alternative design)
    Alternative mounting of the compressor? (Again there is usually more than one way to skin a cat)

    But without more context it is difficult to suggest alternatives

     

    • Like 1
  6. I'm not a structural engineer but logic says that by removing the centre joist you would be distributing it's load to the other 2, therefore it would be better to double up the sides in a fashion to retain the structural safety margin the original designer intended.
    You might want to also double up the cross beams to stop them bending as wood is more flexible when pulled from the side.
    Also make sure the joins of the cross beams to removed joist don't pull out under tension.

    You might also want to put in a cross beam in the centre (I don't see one in the pics just some planks that are may be not fixed down) and may be some noggins again to stop flexing as you put new downward load on the joists.

    Always better to be safe than sorry, you don't want the garage roof collapsing on you and your vehicle.

  7. So a big question that could impact the solution a lot is are the snorkel and cage tube running parallel to each other?
    Or does the solution need to accommodate an angle?

    My thoughts are some type of P Clip or other pipe or cable bracket or cleat for the snorkel and then another for the cage or weld on mounting point.

    e.g.
    https://www.jtmplumbing.co.uk/pipe-fittings-c433/rubber-lined-unlined-steel-pipe-brackets-c244/jtm-bracketry-rubber-lined-steel-pipe-cl

    https://www.jtmplumbing.co.uk/pipe-fittings-c433/rubber-lined-unlined-steel-pipe-brackets-c244/

    or

    klampworksstandard.jpg
    https://abbeyclamps.co.uk/products/p-clips-saddle-clamps/klamp-works-standard/

    or

    Single-Bolt-Hook-Cleat.png

    https://www.jointingtech.co.uk/Single-Bolt-Heavy-Duty

    I've used similar for water hose mounting.
     

  8. 8 hours ago, cackshifter said:

    I wouldn't normally bother with them, but they popped up in a search for non LR car parts , and they have a promo (code 'early')  running this week which seems to be pretty good, at about 50% off, and if they have what you want, puts them in the pricing realms of cheap to reasonable, eg Mann ERR3390 filters 4.19 with discount. I have no interest or connection with them, but thought I'd put it on here in case anyone else wanted to make use of it. (Mods, I hope this is Ok)

    I've used them a couple of times for non LR parts and there is always a large discount code clearly displayed on their web site or if not you can easily find one with google.
    But yes these codes are usually only available if you order via the web site, this can be for delivery or for collection next day at their local counter (which is what I did).

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