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gti-90

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Posts posted by gti-90

  1. hi all.

    im looking to buy a socket set. a good one.

    went out the day and split 4 sockets on my old draper one. i put it down to the cold!

    so whats good and how much?

    i have a small teng tools one and a teng torque wrench, think there great.

    but what else is good?

    price rougly £100

    many thanks jack.

  2. hi,

    here are a couple of options that havent been used so far.

    http://www.loglogic.co.uk/productrange.php

    http://www.scot-track.co.uk/scottrack.htm

    http://www.rememuseum.org.uk/vehicles/warv/vehvolvo.htm

    the loglogic soft trak is a very capable machine. i have personally driven two types of these. a three seater pick up and a nine seater (which would suit you better) ive used them both in scotland on Rannoch moor for mainly red deer extraction over severe soft peat and rocks. it will go most places you point it! Where i work, they recently bought one instead of hiring and with all the accesories (winch, spotlamp, extra six seats in rear, roll bar etc.) it was the deep end of 50k!! and there a british company, made in Devon.

    the scot trak is no where near as big as the above but alot bigger than the best argo. would seat six okay.

    if you drive it on floatation wheels its okay but not as good as tracks, but if you run the tracks around the smaller wheels (you have to do that) you will constantly be repairing punchers from the track pinching the bead. and its a pr*** of a job because the track has to come undone each time. but yet very good on soft terrain, hard ride tho!

    have also used the hagglunds and the volvo bv202e. which is slighlty less heard off. the hagglunds was constantly breaking down, and overheating. it had a genuine ford v6 original. would do about 35 mph on hill roads with 20 people quite tightly packed inside, you would fit 25 without dogs and gear. though it is meant for snow, would do just over 50mph on snow. bloody quick.

    hth jack.

  3. many thanks gadget and sheltie50.

    went and had a look at the disco.

    really nice condition, no rust on the body atall, no corrosion on pipework A/C. above windscreen was fine, chassis good,

    interior really nice, well looked after, air suspension and all the bits that moved "moved"

    It was used on the island for social use mainly i believe, but the owner did do some towing, small building works.

    ive decided to buy it. and part exchange my 306 gti6.

    now have 3 L/Rs lol. :)

  4. Hi all, i mainly loiter around the defender section.

    but tomorrow im off to look at a discovery, so i thought id ask your opinions. its a manual 02, XS, 90 thousand miles and its green, it has service history but not with L/R as it spent time on the Orkney Isle, which worries me for rust!..

    its down at £7500.

    what do i look for with a vehicle of this age??.. , ive been round L/Rs all my life but mainly tdis.

    * air suspension?

    * chassis rust?

    * engine knocking/ smoke?

    * ?

    im not going to definatly buy this truck. i guess that if i spent about 9-10 thousand i would get alot better truck?

    any help ideas be great.

    thanks jack.

  5. hi,

    i had a similiar problem with a 300tdi that had done 160,000.

    the turbo as soon as you reached the boost part of driving would squeel, after alot of head scratching, going around the pipes looking fo splits etc. turned out to be the wastegate flap inside the manifold was slightly loose causing air to escape.

    hth cheers.

  6. hi all.

    how much slack should there be in a 4 bolt power steering box on a 95 defender on the shaft that comes from the steering wheel?

    i can turn the shaft about 7mm easy with no other movement coming out, this is with the steering column uj shaft removed.

    had a play day yesterday and the steering is very stiff to move the wheels could the box be knackered? if its original its done 160thou

    any help be great thanks jack.

  7. thanks for the reply.

    i have since put four tabs on for the lights and a simple C shaped 15mm bar loop on the front of the cage for the hook. it wont be used for winching, but i do see your point in making it the weak point, though with my seagull droppings im sure it would be fine. cheers. :)

  8. hi all.

    ive just fitted a removable t/c cage to my 90 and before i paint it,

    what would you do with a new roll cage, what would you mount and where?

    how many lights on the front and or the back?

    ive also got a 8274 up front and was going to weld a hook to the upright beside the windscreen bar, good?

    any suggestions will be great.

    cheers.

  9. the actuator seems fine, extends when a foot pump is connected and doesnt loose pressure. the wastegate arm is only loose when the actuator rod is disconnected.

    i do believe your right in thinking that the flap is the problem i.e corroded.

    the three exhaust bolts are rusted in that heat way and im sure itl be a grinder or a snap to take them off. with a event next weekend ile not take the exhaust of til next weekend.

    if it is the flap can this alone be changed? or a new second turbo?

    many thanks errol209

    cheers jack.

  10. would it be safe to wire the wastegate open and go for a short drive? ive done it closed and the noise dissappears, to see if its this thats causing it? the wastegate arm seems looseish, the wind would blow it in any direction is this right i cant find any info on it.

    im now getting 14.5 psi on full throttle from shortening the rod a wee bit and going for a drive.

    please someone help

  11. hi,

    still not fixed :angry:

    all new intercooler hoses

    new pipe from turbo to actuator and clips,

    boost gauge fitted and plumbed into the above pipe, only reading just 12 psi when full throttle on a slight climb in forth.

    this should be 15 i think is this correct?

    the noise is still occuring with all this done!

    and yet if i take the wastegate arm off an drive there is no noise, is this the wastegate buggered?

    hope i can get this fixed this weekend as got the landys first shakedown next weekend.

    cheers.

  12. had a wee bit of time on the landy this aft and ive got the actuator pipe of and its basically useless,

    it is a hard plastic type and its swollen at the turbo end, im guesing, got hot turned mallauble then soon as the presure got up expanded the pipe and it was loose from then on, prob from first fitment, possibly somebody put this pipe on rather than a LR fitment. tried the actuator on a pump and it works fine.

    on the phone to D44 got a new pipe a silicone hose set and a boost pressure gauge on its way up to me, should have by the wknd.

    cheers jack. :)

  13. i am on the case as i write following up some piping, but when you want something it never appears.

    being so close to the turbo itl hae to be sturdy stuff.

    i will get a new pipe and fit it and then try another test,

    possibly thinking of fitting a boost gauge to monitor things from now on.

    you think i should put a tyre gauge compressor on one end of the pipe

    and see if the actuator moves the rod as to open the W/G? though carefull as not to damage.

    M M TYPE S

    ive seen that thread where you had that problem and, have checked the inlet manifold gasket yep and its not that, ive had it off and checked the gasket and no failure, retightened the bolts to 25nm.

    think the problem is with the wastegate, as above ^^ taken the actuator rod off and it no longer squeels, so the problem is somewhere turbo related

    thanks jack

  14. aha aha, white 90 you beauty, were getting somewhere. lol

    right i got the c clip of and tied the wastgate back to the bulkhead so its closed, (not as i put above ^^ to the front) took it for a blap up the road and no noise, just a lovely turbo whistle and the tyres roaring,

    now what do i do?? new actuator?

    many thanks tony.

    jack.

  15. yep thats those clips, the pipe is a hard plastic and im wondering if it should be rubber, i cant see how it would get as good as seal to the 'brass' turbo pipe one end and the actuator at the other as it would if rubber.

    i cant seem to get the wee clippy of the rod to test the W/G any pointers? theres no doubting its a pig of a place!!!!

    the noise as you say is most odd! it is a screech almost like a bearing is guna give up, or air screaming through a hole, very loud and only when you have a load with power. would i be better to try to get hold of a new pipe in rubber for the turbo and fasten it good, then if nothing try the rod? just im sure if i get the clip of ile never get it back on.

    thanks jack.

  16. right ok,

    so i disconnect the small clip that holds the bar on then do i need to tie the W/G shut with wire or something similliar to keep it closed? closed is towards the front right?

    the silly little metal grips that hold either end of the short hard plastic pipe (not rubber should it be?) dont seem fanatasticly good ive tryed the washing up liquid trick but cant see the engine end as the inlet airbox pipe is in the way!. lol but still dont see any thing wrong, though i geuss its happening at pressure, ile try the W/G thing now.

    thanks

  17. hi all,

    having looked through and through the excellent tech archive reading carefully the posts by both les and white 90 but i cant quite put an end to it,

    i have a 300tdi 90 with 160000 miles, i have 35" tyres and struggle to get 60 on the A9 on the flat is this normal with tyres like this? my old 300tdi would do 85 with 265/75s!!!. When excellerating hardish through every gear from half way up the rev range to full it screeches like crazy somewhere from the front! i have checked ujs/ props/ transfer box/ diffs/ its not a belt noise i dont think.

    i have stripped all the pipework of from turbo to intercooler to inlet manifold and cant find any splits, the intercoolers fins are corroded and flakey but the main frame looks good, the only thing i can think of is the wastegate seems very hard to move by hand and seems rusty squeeky when moving with a small pry bar, if it is not moving would this create this noise? other than that the boost pressure pipe that runs from the actuator to the turbo looks good but doesnt seem right the clamps either end dont seem over tight and dont want to be tightened any more.

    any help would be great

    thanks jack :)

  18. Hi all.

    I have got a older type 8274 winch and have partially rebuilt, resprayed it back to good, but?

    what sealant/gaskets do you people use to seal between the top and bottom housings and the freespool lever plate?

    what oil and how much do you recomend for the gears in the bottom housing?

    and also after lots of searching i cant seem to find much info on the brake end of the mainshaft, should there be a circlip

    on the shaft to stop the plate coming off? its well rusted on.

    sorry for all the questions and if theyve been asked many times before.

    cheers. :)

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