cjmt

Thanks all. I really need to examine the inner sills and floor properly and go from there. Advice much appreciated! Charlie

NFU her for me too. I use thm for everything, house, livestock, business, vehicles, the whole lot. Nothing but excllent service so far, even when a claim has been made. Their Landrover prices are especially good. I swapped from insuring a 2.8 Frontera third party to a 300Tdi Disco fully comp for an additonal £30 a year. Bargain! Charlie

This would be excellent and would help those (me) that rintd them out for outdoor reference. There must be an html > pdf converter somewhere that would make it a less manual process

Thanks Andy and ThreeSheds. I hope I'm going to get away with the repair sections and am glad it sounds straightforward but I guess I wont know until I get the grinder out. The box section tutorial linked to is excellent and will really help if I need/want to go that route. Any other advise anyone might have still much appreciated. Any thoughts anyone on wether the insurance co would regard box section sills as a modification??? Charlie

Thanks Andy. So, seam weld to the a/b pillars, the upper edge of the old outer sill and puddle weld to lower lip to lower lip of inner sill and no welding through the floor?? Charlie

Hi All, My trying to get my Discovery in good order before its MOT continues. Phase 2 is the welding... My first of several questions is this. Both outer sills are more or less knackered, but the inner sills appear fine, though they have only been prodded with a screwdriver rather than wirebrushed extensively. Assuming it is just the outers is this a relatively straightforward job? Do I just buy the outer sill repair sections from YRM, cut the old outers out, leaving a lip of good metal at the top to weld them to and then puddle weld to the bottom of the inners, or do I need to weld through the floor too. I hope not! Any advice much appreciated. I have seen the box section tutorial and that technique is a posibility but I'd rather keep the car originalish if poss, am always a bit paranoid about insurance cos etc in the event of a shunt. However if its much easier I'd certainly consider it. I'm a totally novice welder, so any advice with that borne in mind would be particularly kind! Thanks again Charlie

Victory! A combination of pressure, full lock and a jack got it in the end. Many thanks to all advisors. Now on to the front propshaft UJs.... Charlie

Thanks all for the helpful suggestions, going to have a go in the morning and will report back. Charlie

Many thanks Les, I'll give it another try then. As an aside, many thanks for your excellent how-to guides, thy've been invaualble and helped me (I think successfully) do jobs I otherwise wouldnt have attempted. Charlie

Hi All, I'm slowly attempting to rectify all of the mechanical and rust related faults on my 300 Discovery prior to its Nov MOT. In large part the front axles need rebuilding, calipers, discs and swivel seal/ball on both sides. I have progressed slowly but nevertheless have progressed, largely due to the very good technical archive on here. The major lesson I have learned so far is, buy new nuts and bolts, after 14 years the originals snap or round of rather well. My (rather stupid) question is, should the stud in a track rod end turn round as its nut is tightened? I am finishing off the pasenger side axle and the last bolt I have to do up is this one. I imagine it shouldnt and somthing has given way when the joint was separated as none of the other ball joints I have looked at do so. However as a newbie I thought I needed to ask before buying a new one! Many thanks for any help, Charlie