edwardatherton
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Posts posted by edwardatherton
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A friend of mine has bought a Ford Escort RS2000.
He had a mate lined up to collect it for him on Saturday but got a text message saying he now cannot do it...
The trouble is, he lives in Manchester and the car is in Leigh-on-Sea!
He had agreed to pay a fair amount for moving it, so if anyone is interested, please PM me!
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Thanks very much everyone - it is indeeed the motor on the diverter valve. The motor spins fine.
I found a little manual switch on the back of the valve so the rads now work, and as luck would have it it is less than £14 from onlineplumbingsupplies.co.uk. The motor can be replaced without the valve, apparently!
I don't think SWMBO was expecting much of a result - she didn't look impressed when I said I had put a message on a LR forum regarding central heating!
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This morning we had hot water but all the radiators were cold. This evening it is the same.
From looking at a few web pages it means the pump that circulates the water has packed up.
It is a Grundfos Selectric 15/50 which looks to be about £60 from a quick Google search.
How can I test if this is right? The big round red bit
does not appear to be doing anything at all, but there is also a square metal bit above it. What's that?
Any help much appreciated as it is a tad cold at the moment. Personally I would just put the heater on in the garage and continue work on the trailer for a few nights and worry about plumbing once the Sankey is roadworthy, but SWMBO won't let me...
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I am about to put a new tub on my Sankey, and a few people have said that I should get it galvanised first.
Does anyone have any idea on likely cost, and where in the Manchester/Lancashire area to get it done?
I carry all sorts in it, is the galv likely to get rubbed off/scratched etc?
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p.s. Which is best bang for buck - considering that this will probably be a one-shot electronics project - a solder-sucker or this solder-wick that you mention? (I haven't noticed solder-wick, but I can imagine what it's like)
I have never tried a solder-sucker, but the wick is very good. I had to use it when I built my megajolt board!
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Noticed a rusty streak dwon the side of the engine yesterday, looks like a small dribble from the nearside core plug at the front of the engine which looks like it has corroded at the bottom to give a pinhold leak.
I'm thinking that even with the exhaust manifold in the way I should be able to get to it and just hammer it out (after draing the collant) and knock a new one in with some sealant, or is it much harder than it looks?
Not sure whether the manifold has to come off or not. Easy to replace the plug though - just make sure you only put a thin smear of sealant round the edge, you don't want any getting in the waterways.
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How do I know what size I need...
Do I need to find an air filter with inlet/outlet roughly the same size diameter, or do I need to get one off any engine with about the same horse-power?
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Nice quick reply from Longlife -
STOCKISTS OF WOLFRACE HIGH POWER NO RESTRICTION CARBON DYNAMIC AIR INDUCTION KITSHi Edward ,
We are the people to supply and fit a Stainless Steel Exhaust to your Landrover. All our systems come with a LIFETIME GUARANTEE so it is fit and forget. The combination of the quality grade stainless that we use (T304) and the free flow system will transform the vehicle.
The cost for a custom British built T304 stainless steel system from the manifold to the rear, together with mirror polished tailpipes would be £299 including vat, including fitting and is guaranteed for life.
The system comes with a choice of 15 different tailpipes fron 2"to 5" oval round and slash cut ,We have over 87 other tail pipe designs to choose from if you fancy something designer, such as jap-style, blue flame, twins, acoustics and letterbox styles. Unlike other fabricators our tail pipes are not pre welded to the rear silencer which gives you the ultimate flexibility in your choice of style of tail pipe and also allows you to choose the sound that you want from the car. These can be viewed at tailpipes.co.uk .
Hand-building and fitting your custom made system takes approximately 5 hours (around 2 for a back box only) by appointment at our Leeds centre. We have courtesy vehicles which you are quite welcome to use so that you can nip off and do other things whilst we attend to your car.
Because all of our systems are custom built, you are able to tell us how you would like the car to sound, anywhere from quiet to full sport. The most popular choice is Mild Sport, which gives a slight note when you open the accelerator, yet without being intrusive.
The benefits of a Longlife Stainless Steel Exhaust include improved engine performance and greater fuel economy. This is achieved by fabricating all our exhaust systems on a full free flow principle which means that your engine operates more efficiently. You will immediately notice an increase of around 10 BHP and 10% MPG and the car will have more torque making it more responsive at bottom end revs.
When you arrive, before work commences, you will be talked through the system design and fitment. You will also be given a choice of sound, from quiet to sporty, or somewhere in between. We can also 'offer up' a selection of tail pipe designs to your car to help you make your choice.
After our work is completed the exhaust will undergo a thorough 12 point quality check, to make sure it is clean, there are no leaks, and the fit is perfect, it will then be tested for sound. Don't forget our exhausts are guaranteed for life, so you can truly fit it and forget it, unlike other systems built from lower quality imported t409 stainless from China or Korea. It's the difference between Gold and Gold Plated.
I have sent some photos of our recent work so that you can see the quality of the product .
Please call me or my colleague Kelvin on 0113 279 8944 to find out about this months special offers and promotions, and discounts where possible.
I look forward to hearing from you soon.
Doesn't seem bad at £299 including VAT and fitting does it? If I can persuade the wife to go shopping (not difficult) then we can go out for the day in one of their cars as well! So, any ideas on what shape of mirror-finish rear pipe I want/need?
Does anyone know anything about stainless? What does T304, T409 etc mean? Are there any specific questions I need to ask? Just need the accountants to get the year-end finished now so I can get my bonus!
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Greenwood Silencers
13-17 Halliwell Street
Rochdale
OL12 6TJ
Phone: 01706 356982
They don't do stainless unfortunately. I have filled in the form on the Longlife exhaust website, so we'll see what they say.
Thanks for the help!
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I have a 2.5 petrol in my 88" Series One. Currently it has a 2.25 petrol exhaust welded to the top bit of a Defender front pipe and is also lengthened as the manifold outlet is 1.5" further forward!
The 2.25 pipe is quite a lot thinner than the Defender pipe so I would like to put a larger system all the way through without bodging too many different bits together...
Steve Parker are near to me and can do a stainless system for just under £350 or mild aluminised for just over £200. Seems a lot to me!
Does anyone know any other companies who could supply a system?
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Since I put the 2.5 petrol into my Series One I have had a K&N filter on the carb elbow. It happened to be in the garage when I needed a filter, and was neater (also less restrictive) than putting a long pipe round to original oil bath filter (which has a much smaller outlet pipe).
Since fitting megajolt and being able to watch the pressure/vacuum readings as I'm driving (while occasionally looking at the road
), I have noticed that there seems to be a 'ram' effect - also if it's windy it makes the pressure change substantially which the megajolt interprets as me putting my foot down and changes the timing. The timing and therefore the mixture are not at all steady.Apart from various comments about the effectiveness of K&N filters, it is exposed to any water splashing in from between the wing and bonnet (as well as all the holes around the engine bay of a S1!), so a proper filter would be a good plan.
Is there another model that has an air filter box that I could use? Something self-contained so I could mount it somewhere and simply attach a pipe to the carb? A LR product would be better so I remember what it is and can get filters from LR suppliers!
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Rover P4 cars had 4.3:1 diffs if they had overdrive, and 3.9:1 if they didn't.
Trouble is you need two cars per Land Rover if you want these diffs!
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Not sure when they changed or what other differences there are, but some 2.5 Webers had one solenoid on the side, and some have two.
I think one is a fuel shut-off and one is an air-bypass thingy...
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Every vehicle I have been in has a speedo with a different reading than the satnav/gps. The S1 reads 28mph when I am doing 30, nearly every modern vehicle reads 30 but is doing 27mph.
Trick is to remember which vehicle does what...!
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Jon
whats the 2.5 performance like in comparison to 2.25
Cheers
OWL
I've just put a 2.5 in my S1 and it goes very well - it certainly feels more powerful than the 2.25 I had in my 86" years ago, but there isn't much difference between a well-sorted 2.25 and a 2.5. Be cheaper to put a 2.5 in and get unleaded 8:1 head as standard than spend the money doing the same to a 2.25.
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A few weeks ago my wife's Fiat 500 was written off by another driver running into it (she's fine, she was more upset about the car!).
Anyway, I have just heard that it is deemed 'uneconomic to repair' and that they will offer the agreed value minus 20% (possibly but not definite) for the salvage if we want to retain it.
We had already thought that we would use the bodyshell to make a little Fiat trailer but for £700 it isn't worth it. If we cannot negotiate a lower price, I assume the insurers will scrap it anyway?
Now for the question(s)... If/when they come to collect the car, it had a non-running engine, standard steel wheels, limited interior, no fuel etc, would they know/be bothered/do anything about it?
We put a replacement engine in only a month ago - it would be a shame to lose it, but we have got the old block that could be cobbled together to look right, although it definitely wouldn't run...
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Bluddy 'ell!!
Dropped the 110 off at my specialist yesterday evening for an MOT, service and the mid-box removal job mentioned elsewhere.
Just had a call to say that overnight some oiks broke in and nicked me wheels and BFG's and stereo!!
OK, trying to stay calm, but what should I do?
Told them I want her running in time for Billing. We leave Thursday.
Tell them you want it back for Thursday - you will probably not get a replacement set of alloys/tyres/stereo by then, but they should fit something to keep you rolling!
They should have their own insurance or simply pay you for getting the bits if they don't want to claim.
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I've never come across that in quite a few years of running LPG vehicles... I would ask to see the maintenance/inspection sheet for that pump!
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Yup, just checked, 41mm
Great, many thanks. Will ring our mechanic now!
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Does anyone have a rough idea what size it is please?
Need to borrow a socket today but brought the hire car to work instead...
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I recently got a new PC for work with a 2.4 Gigahertz processor and 1 Gb of RAM and it runs on Vista.
We use it for web, email, word processing, Sage (company accounts program) and usual stuff (LR4x4, LRO forum, etc when the boss isn't in!).
It has been absolutely fine, no problems at all, and seems to sort itself out quicker/more automatically than XP - what I mean is, it crashes less often and seems to sort out installations/problems itself. Downside is that some programs may not run on Vista.
It is not used for anything particularly intensive, so maybe my experience is different than others here, but I quite like Vista!
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I would have thought that an air filter designed for a 2.5 litre engine would be undersized for a 4.6.
I reckon it would be strangling it a bit.
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>Engine mountings to chassis?
Leave the chassis alone! Use the normal 2.25 engine mount on the left hand side. I was told to use a 2.25 bracket on the right hand side with an angled adaptor, but I found that drilling a new hole in the original 2-litre mount worked fine.
Edwardathon, you have raised a doubt in my mind now. I have fitted the round type engine mounts to the chassis x member. My engine awaits refitting. From what you say I will need to drill another hole in the xmember? How far from the orginal hole will this be (Approx) ? Thanks Geoff
What I meant was that you can use the 2-litre mounting (the bit that bolts to the engine block) but you need to drill a new hole in it close to the block where the bolt comes through.
Just been outside and got some pics...
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Uli,
I'm sure I either PM'd you or have posted details of a lot of this previously... Maybe it's my memory...
>Only flywheelhousing? Into which part?
Keep the flywheel housing that is attached to the engine. Use a Series 2 bellhousing - part number 277961.
>Exhaustpipe?
Standard Series exhaust pipe for a 2.25 petrol.
>Radiatorhose?
You will need to either move the radiator outlet to the right hand side (when looking from the drivers seat), or make up a long pipe somehow as it is on the other side to a 2-litre engine.
>Engine mountings to chassis?
Leave the chassis alone! Use the normal 2.25 engine mount on the left hand side. I was told to use a 2.25 bracket on the right hand side with an angled adaptor, but I found that drilling a new hole in the original 2-litre mount worked fine.
>Oilbath aircleaner hose?
Either make something to go across the engine to the original oil-bath or put a pancake filter on the carb. As the carb is close to the bonnet you might need to make something to fit the carb top.
>Accelerator lever and rods because carb is now on the other side? Any pictures for me?
You need the rods/levers etc from a Series 2 or 3.
>Dynamo connection to voltage control box (LU37138A) ?
Same as the 2-litre connections as it should also have a dynamo.
>Is the 2,3l nearer under the bonnet ? Any modifications herefor?
As above - the only bit that may be awkward is the air filter to carb connection.
does not appear to be doing anything at all, but there is also a square metal bit above it. What's that?
), I have noticed that there seems to be a 'ram' effect - also if it's windy it makes the pressure change substantially which the megajolt interprets as me putting my foot down and changes the timing. The timing and therefore the mixture are not at all steady.
Friend in need of help...
in International Forum
Posted
Just got another text from him to say he's all sorted!