edwardatherton
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Posts posted by edwardatherton
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I'm pretty sure this has been featured/advertised in one of the magazines recently. I think it's an odd looking thing, but some might say it takes one to recognise one!
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I don't have any pictures, but I'm pretty sure Paul's email address is in the LRO article.
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Where's it all stored when it's not in use?
Any chance of some pics? (not of you in bed, but of the bed itself!!)
Simply stood on their side in the box he has built over the wheelarch. The box holds all the recovery gear, and then a couple of straps/clips hold the stuff upright.
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I travelled in Paul's 'bedroom' a couple of weekends ago on a green-lane trip when the S1 didn't want to run.
There are two pieces of board which go from the rear door to the dash, and a couple of pieces of foam that go on top.
That's it. Nice and simple!
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Between us, we'll get them Will!
Smart forfour is only shorter if the Def90 is a pickup with the spare wheel inside btw! Conveniently ignored/forgot that though.
A friend of mine has a new Prius - he says the batteries are guaranteed for twelve years...
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So I can replace the 88" S1 hubs (with the double-ended wheelnuts) so it looks right from the outside then?
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What exactly is involved in converting to 11-inch on the front.
Is it a case of removing hub etc, replacing backplate/drum with 11-inch type, the refitting original hub, or do I need to fit the LWB hubs as well?
I'm not bothered about pipework at the moment as I'm not doing the job right now, just stripping a LWB axle and don't want to throw away bits I might need!
BTW, anyone want the case/halfshafts/diff?
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Yes. Series don't have this ballast resistor, IIRC the v8's do.
Look at the points very carefully, I understand they can get hot and melt the plastic bits, any distortion will affect the gap.
The plastic heel was literally melting on my 2.25 when I had the high-power coil on it.
The other problem I have had which produced nearly the same symptoms was the 'clip' where the wire goes from the condensor onto the points - the gap was so small I had to bend it away slightly from the baseplate otherwise when the ignition advanced it misfired as it was grounding!
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Measured with a feeler gauge with the heel on the cam. My dizzy was fine until this problem started, the other one I've just put in is from an engine that was also fine and was only taken out to fit a V8. Both bolts are tight and the dizzy itself doesn't appear to be moving, I'll have another look tomorrow though
I'm wondering whether leaving the ignition on for ages has damaged something else other than the coil and the points?
Have you got a high-power coil? Exactly the same happened to me when I fitted a Lucas gold coil.
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Kenlowe Performance Chart give the specs, and a 13" standard fan running through a "4x4's thick radiator" is 761 CFM.
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Yes, Yes. I know all about the various makes of gas shocks on the market. What I want to know is what happens when they get old. After say 80 thousand miles a set of oil shocks are probably shagged out. Is this true for gas ones as well? Does thier performance deteriorate or do they just pack in all of a sudden?
Has anyone here any experience of this?
Cheers
Log
Are you asking because you have had some fail, or because you want information on the possibilities with different shocks?
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Useless fact of the day: Jim'll Mix It supplied the concrete for my garage floor!
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I ran my 2.25 on paraffin/petrol for a while with no difference apart from the smell from the exhaust. I imagine mixing it would be the best bet.
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I bought one from Si at Billing but haven't fitted it yet - might be a job for this weekend
Most people seem to fit them in the top hose but I thought the bottom hose was recomended? I guess there may be a temp difference due to water being hotter going into the rad than it is coming out (hopefully lol ).
Which is best? Why do most use the top hose - is it for convenience?
I put mine (S1 2.0-litre) in the bottom hose so it was a bit more out of sight. Here it will not have any air in the hose (hopefully!) and will measure the temp of water going into the engine. If the rad is not cooling the water enough the fans will cool it more.
In the top hose however, it measures water coming out of the engine. If the engine is being worked hard then temp will rise quicker here and kick the fans in slightle earlier to cool the water even more going into the engine.
Does that make sense? And does it really matter where it goes. Certainly I doubt the 2.0-litre would be affected by a few degrees difference in temp!
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I seem to think my trailer had 30psi or something like that on the side of the body.
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A friend of mine runs a vehicle CCTV company and he gave me the system that I posted about on here a while ago.
I find it is great for doing exactly what you want, especially if you mount it low down enough to look up... er, oh, wrong forum.
**Ahem**
I have put my camera in the PTO hole so I can see the NATO hitch in the top right of the screen. I can get the trailer ring exacly over the hitch every time, and if you set the trailer height slightly low, you can bump the ring into the hitch so it will definitely engage when you let it down - after all, you don't want it to slip sideways...!
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Concrete's currently my favourite option - just need to find a way to may it look pretty - I seem to remember there are companies who'll 'texture' a concrete drive to make it look like block-paving?...... that, combined with a coloured concrete must appease SWMBO
My neighbour has just had textured concrete put down his drive to look like block-paving. If you want, I can email you a photo after the weekend? It looks alright.
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yep, potting compound is the resin that you set the circuit in to protect it. 2-part epoxy (ie araldite) is sometimes used, but as roger says, it gets hot when curing, which isn't a good idea for soldered things.
Mark
Ah, right. Would this stuff from Maplins work alright?
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I have the Maplin ignition amplifier on mine, properly potted it has been great.
I also have the Ducillier dizzy (SIII) which has an external condenser so swapping back to conventional ignition is even easier than on a Lucas dizzy.
NB - if you do pot it, make sure you use proper potting compound as other two-parts get hot when they cure, and test it BEFORE potting!
potting compound? I have to admit that I have absolutely no idea what you are on about! My wife got some potting compound at the weekend from the garden centre but I have a sneaky feeling that burying it in a bag of compost wouldn't really help things (and there's not enough room under the bonnet either).
I have ended up getting a Maplin's kit and building it last night/this morning. For simplicity and cheapness it will be a good start! It says in the instructions that it should be covered in resin to help waterproof it - is that a potting compound?
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I want something that doesn't need too much work to install and doesn't compromise refitting the points if necessary. Also, I'm tight, so don't want to spend much!
These are my current thoughst, comment/agree/disagree as necessary!
Magnetronic: Not too expensive. Could revert to points fairly quickly. Could I use the 25D baseplate in the DM2 dizzy so didn't have to swap dizzy completely? Could fit high-power coil.
Optronic: Quicker switching, only need to buy fitting kit to swap between dizzys. More dosh. Cannot fit sports coil - does this matter?
Maplins: Had one fitted briefly but as soon as a drop of water touched it, it died.
Mtero/Montego or EDIS4: Too much fiddling and/or using second hand components for my liking. I use this every day for work, so needs to be reliable.
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I have got the Lucas DM2 distributor on the 2-litre with standard points at the moment.
A while ago I 'made' a spare Magnetronic kit (supposed to be for the 25D4 dizzy) fit but it only lasted two days before dying, so back to points again. However while it had elec ign it ran noticeably better.
Can I fit a 25D4 from a 2.25 engine onto the 2-litre and put an elec ign kit on that, or can I get elec ign for the DM2 dizzy?
Any opinions on whether I go for Magnetronic (cheaper), Optronic (more money, but that much better?), or Aldon Ignitor?
The advantage of having a 25D4 dizzy is that I could swop that onto the 2.25 I am rebuilding for the day when the 2-litre has had enough!
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It looks very tattty to me, as if it has been sat there for ages... If it is so good, why not get it out/clear the grass, and at least clean it up a bit for better photos?
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Another excellent post for the archives Les.
Yep, another good read (and some useful info in there as well!). Many thanks!
Paddocks - Very unhappy
in International Forum
Posted
I find that either of the Buckley Brothers - www.landroverspares.co.uk - are very helpful and knowledgeable. I use them for most stuff that I need urgently. I don't usually know part numbers but give them a vague description and they give me the correct part!