UdderlyOffroad
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Posts posted by UdderlyOffroad
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4 hours ago, rhrwilliams said:
Ok - so I shall not sell it , repair and chassis swap (in the long term) it is. Its worth a lot to me as a working vehicle and I will just accept I cannot sell it without telling person buying it its nicked, and except it will never be worth lots of money in the future. A workhorse it always has been and forever it shall continue !
I'm not sure it is; your mate said it was a 'ringer', some posters above are being uber cautious - but all we know for certain from your posts is that it's a 'bitsa'.
As Western pointed out, the fact the engine is a 200 Tdi could've been a factory upgrade kit. You have matching VIN numbers between ID plate and log book.
As you say, it's a workhorse, so nobody in the real world would expect all original bits to be still on the vehicle given the meccano-like nature of Landies. See Snagger's post above as an example.
But anyhoo, you're keeping the truck, and will eventually re-chassis it. To that end, I wouldn't bother trying to patch a cross member, as your bound to find more rot once you start prodding with a screwdriver - but obviously it depends on how you value your time spent fixing it. Also, welding gas, wire and cosumables aren't free! So yes, find the biggest set of forks you can for the front loader and get to it!!
The only caveat with that, inspect your bulkhead carefully for rot too; it's not that it's an MOT failure (except round the brake servo), but it will let in water and otherwise need attention eventually.
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There was a thread on here a while back re this; I'm still very happy with my ESAB helmet, which was £60-odd from the local welding factors. If you can go to your local place and try a couple - bearing in mind these places keep 'trade' hours so you probably need to leave work early one day - there's usually a deal to be had for cash, and prices are often better than online.
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19 hours ago, ThreeSheds said:
Sorry for the long delay - the suspension went very well and allows the unit to be wheeled around very much more easily
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20 hours ago, rhrwilliams said:
It is however registered as a D reg built 1986. I have had the land rover for years and was in blissful ignorance about its history..... I took it to a specialist Land Rover place a few months ago as it failed its MOT and the guy there said its a ringer as its not a 1986 model. I investigated this further and as it appears the chassis number has been ground off thus being reasonable I think it is def a ringer / clone and not just had an engine swap as I thought !
6 hours ago, ballcock said:What a dilema, Do you know who you bought it off, are they the previous keeper on the V5? As you are now aware of it's history if you sell it on you are as guilty as the person who sold it to you. You may want to get some legal advice as to where you stand. As knowingly being in recent of stolen property is a little more than unwittingly buying a ringer. Sorry if it sounds harsh but having vehicles stolen in the past I have little time for people who deal in them.
Slow down people, for all we know somebody legally owned both vehicles and made one 'good' one out of 2 vehicles. Used to happen a lot, less common now. Especially with Defenders and Minis, before prices skyrocketed.
Personally, you've had it this long, I'd get the galv chassis ordered and swap it. Do as Western says, make sure the VIN plate on the brake servo (if it's still there) matches the log book, and stamp up the new chassis with that number.
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Try a proper, umolested mp3 file first! Don't bother with Amazon or some other digital music store...so for instance, go to youtubeinmp4.com , copy and paste a link of any youtube video into the box, select create mp4...then importantly, when the page loads, press the 'download mp3' button to get an audio only file.
Copy that to your SD card and see if your head unit plays it.
To be honest I think your HU has issues. Mac hidden folders don't usually confuse them, as they're, well, hidden. But I'm sure someone will be along to say they've had issues with that...
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16 hours ago, Red90 said:
Flux core? It should be electrode negative. Solid wire is electrode positive. Always read over the data sheet for the consumable to understand setting limits.
The 'flux core' we get over this side of the pond is meant for gasless application, rather than what's generally available in North America. This appears to be intended to supplement the shielding gas (at least according to some of the Youtube channels I subscribe to).
I would guess it comes down to a difference in what's acceptable according to ASME/AWS and the EN stds, which therefore drives what consumables are available.
I am not a welder or materials engineer however, so am happy to be corrected.
As for spray transfer, yes it is do-able with DIY kit, but I would personally stick to the old motto of 'the key to good penetration is good preparation' using conventional MIG...
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4 hours ago, GW8IZR said:
brother in law bought the inverter welder which we put to use fixing the harrow this weekend.
Its really good and a nice stable arc, light as a feather to carry as well.
the accessories (chipping hammer and mask) are useless but the machine is a good performer.
As with all these things the fan has no filter and if you use the grinder when its running the dust will be drawn into it and duly deposited on the 'electronics' so a bit of common sense needed ... but I've paid more for takeaway food......
Thanks for the info. Must admit am tempted, but will pass in favour of the spending 5 times as much on the R-tech inverter MIG which can do stick too...
As we've mentioned Bridgwater, Toolstation have their 'outlet' shop there, always worth a peruse if you're in the area.
1 hour ago, honitonhobbit said:Ah yes - Just up from the Five0 Station. Might have to drop in...
Weston Five-0; hmmmm not sure that TV series would get commissioned somehow.
....
Damn now I have a mental image of the theme song to drunks fighting underneath the pier....
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The 'C'-clamps in the 'welding clamps' set are a little on the small side, but probably quite good for sheet metal. At a fiver a set, you can't argue, I picked up 2 sets earlier today. I walked away from the inverter stick welder though, 80 A seems just too puny to be useful. Be interested to know if anyone on here buys one and how they get on.
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Deepest sympathies to both of you. None of this is easy. I’ve seen the special type of hell on earth that is a parent losing a child when we lost my brother, wouldn’t wish that on my worst enemy.
I also remember the empty space I felt when our 16 year old collie mongrel had to make the one-way trip to the vet (frankly I’ve got a tear in my eye just thinking about it). Dogs are bu**ers for leaving you.
Anyhoo, there must be a compromise in here.
The off-topic posts do add to the forum’s value. Think of Fridge’s garage, Rattlers’ log burner install, Mike’s camper trailer build? Also people asking about their non-LR cars? Should we ban that too?
A while ago I proposed an off-topic forum, I even offered to help moderate it. Crucially, the posts in that forum should be excluded from the Google search results. That way, the value of lr4x4 as the place to go to find technical answers to Land Rover related issues remains. Additionally, those who have no interest is such frivolities can exclude the OT forum from appearing in their ‘unread posts’ feed.
I’ve always been somewhat confused about the scope of the ‘international forum’, so perhaps the above suggestion could complement it rather than replace it?
Matt
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On 3/13/2017 at 6:59 AM, Snagger said:
You get a lot more luxuries on a Kia, too. The German car industry is on the brink, and the analogy to the British and Japanese in the 70s is a good one.
Indeed. Having been in and out of many different hire cars over the last 5 years of employment, I've noticed a definite decrease in the build quality of VAG group cars and a definite increase in the build quality of Kias especially.
I hope the Germans pick it up, and who knows we might even have a sensible discussion in the press on the merits of a test system that bear little to no resemblance to real life. Given the parallels with school league tables, not to mention the chattering urban middle classes already thoughtlessly parroting the oversimplified 'Diesels bad!' mantra*, I don't hold out much hope
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And not just the earths either. The symptoms described could also point to loose/corroded battery terminal clamps, hence the intermittent nature of the problem. Make sure they’re tight, cleaned and smeared with some goop such as Vaseline.
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18 hours ago, zardos said:
Memory card in camera and configure camera to record to it and email you stills of motion events.
Honestly, using storage on board the cameras kind of removes the point for me, I want to be able to control and record it from my home office. Albeit it does simplify the wiring!
19 hours ago, Happyoldgit said:Thanks chaps, much appreciate the input.
But my head hurts already, I need more of a big dummies guide
So, can someone point me in the direction of this or that kit or maybe bundle of bits from this or that supplier to nail together without the need to understand unfamiliar acronyms.
I concur this thread’s taken in a turn down a techie avenue! In your situation, I’d call one of the reputable suppliers and buy a 4 IP camera kit, one of the known brands, e.g. Hikvision. Explain to them on the phone you’re going to need to hook these up via powerline adaptors. This is because you don’t want them to sell you a recorder (NVR) with Power over Ethernet as PoE and Powerline won’t work together*.
When the kit and the powerline adaptors arrive:
1) ‘sync’ the powerline adaptors on multiway powerstrip (per the quick start guide, usually just involves pressing a button on the adaptors).
2) plug all the cameras in and get the recorder working ‘on the bench’. Hopefully the kit you buy should have fairly straightforward instructions for this
3) Plug all the cameras into the powerline adaptors and ensure the system still works on the bench
4) Take a camera and powerline adaptor to the outbuilding, connect up temporarily, and ensure the recorder can still see the camera. If it doesn’t work, test the connection back to the main building using your laptop, to ensure it ‘sees’ the internet.
5) Install cameras permanently
6) rinse and repeat steps 4 and 5 for all cameras
7) Then, if you’re worried about the cameras ‘phoning home’ like Fridge, you can setup the parental controls on your router (!) to stop the cameras being able to access the internet directly. Google your routers model no and ‘parental controls’ and you should find a straight forward guide.
Doing it this way should ensure you only add one variable at a time, so if something doesn’t work, you can go back to the last step.
*That’s not entirely true; I have a powerline adaptor in my outbuilding, but also a PoE injector to power the external camera. 2 boxes that look almost identical but do the diametric opposite! There are combined adaptors that do both, but they’re quite spendy. I’ve had that particular setup rigged up temporarily in my detached garage and it worked ok.
So to be clear, powerline adaptors make it possible to have wired network connection by ‘piggybacking’ into the building’s mains electrical wiring. Using a pair of these adaptors, it’s possible to get a network connection to outbuildings that are too far away for wifi signals, and where you want to avoid the expense of burying cable. They’re not as fast as proper network wiring, but are more than sufficient for all but the most High Def of CCTV cameras.
Power over Ethernet (PoE) does the opposite trick, by using some of the unused cores in network cable to power low-consumption devices, e.g. cameras. This is desirable because it means you only need to run one cable to the camera. Especially in outdoor installations, it makes weather proofing the whole assembly easier. So most (but not all) IP cameras will be capable of be powered either using PoE or via a power adaptor included with the camera.
But, and here’s the gotcha, some kits won’t include separate power adaptors for the camera, as the power will come from the NVR. Hence the need to call the supplier and double-check before slapping the cash down.
Matt
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3 hours ago, BogMonster said:
Given that you can buy every part on the vehicle from somewhere or other that isn't Land Rover, I'm curious as to what stops him (or anybody else) just buying up all the bits and assembling them? Clearly not cost effective at parts counter prices but if you were doing it in bulk the economics might look completely different.
There are few members on this forum that could do exactly that with their stashes...
My coat? Why thank you!
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I think I may have started one of the more recent threads on this. I have yet to report back on it as we are just about to change houses thus the CCTV system was put on hold. However, I have continued researching for the new property.
The consensus seems to be not to bother with wireless, as Wifi of whatever type just isn’t set up to cope well with ‘streaming’. However, if mains power is available in your outbuildings, network ‘powerline’ adaptors can used to provide a wired connection for your IP cameras.
I’d be interested to see what Network Video Recorder (NVR) people recommend, as they either seem to be of the Chinesium cheap-and-nasty variety, or many hundreds for a decent unit.
I have been trying to persuade Zoneminder to work on a Raspberry Pi 3 (in my lunchbreaks), i.e. the roll-your-own solution, but I got bogged down in configuration and dependency hell.
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Agreed, don't hate it...
Doubt anyone can realistically produce a 'modular' design and meet crash safety, leak tight-ness and NVH (Noise Vibration Harshnees) that are required in a modern vehicle. I can't think of a single production vehicle that currently does it.
I'll go further; I don't think many actual first-time customers of the Defender ever used its modularity either?
Back on topic...It might just be that with the...uh, Footballerising of the Discovery, it's at least conceivable the Defender replacement might be slightly more utilitarian? I can't believe that in Tata's senior management, there aren't some people who look at what farmers have replaced their Landies with - the Japanese double cab pickup - and not want a slice of that market. Ok, so they'd be chasing a £25k market, which is a considerable come-down from their current £40k (startIng) price.
Well, I can hope anyway!
Matt
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I had a cheapie Clarke which would do gas-less, and I could never get a decent result. Not that the gas results were that good either. Sold that, bought a Screwfix special, I could get a decent bead in gas mode...but my mate bought a modern, electronic MIG and the results on that, even on thin sheet. are something to behold. So I currently coveteth one of those. On Si's recommend I'll probably go for the R-tech as it can also do stick. Handy for mitigating the running-out-of-gas-on-Sunday factor!
Short story long, get the R-tech, or a GYS, or a quality 2nd hand unit.
Yes, it will cost you about £400-500 for a complete decent setup including gas. If that seems steep, it is. But I'm willing to bet that it won't be an 'occasional use' tool. Once you have one, you'll find all sorts of uses for it.
Matt
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That controller looks very smart. I like the idea of the CNC machine being a proper device on the network, rather than being some kind of glorified parallel-port driven plotter which requires an attached computer to run it. (Yes, I know of course it still requires a PC running UNCNC/Mach3)
Might be worth starting your own thread RobertSpark, I’m sure many of us would be interested to see what you’ve done; Would prevent us dragging Ruuman’s thread too far off-topic.
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Surely in the Australian market they can disable the will-not-run-without-Adblue device as it's not required?
And she's damning you with faint praise...
Matt
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You can get the basic model from Screwfix for £42. Frankly If you’ve got £79, another tenner will get you a Bosch model…This is the one I've bought to replace my cheapie which worked for 10yrs. It's really good and chews through concrete. I'd still probably use the metal-gearbox cheapie for demo work though.
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If you have a Toolstation near you, they sell Milwaukee branded SDS bits. They’ve held up ok for the work I’ve been doing on my house. And yes they do 6 and 8mm sizes , the most commonly used sizes for rawl plugs
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In case it wasn’t clear….get an SDS drill. Borrow, rent, buy, whatever, but don’t waste your time with a ‘hammer drill’.
I bought the £40 Argos cheapie and it lasted me for over 10yrs before some oaf labourer used it & got a bit stuck in the SDS chuck. It’s still on the healing bench, patiently waiting it its turn to be fixed.
Keep in mind you can also use them in ‘rotary stop’ mode with chisels, breakers etc. So ideal for lighter demo work and pulling tiles off the wall.
Incidentally, the SDS drills I’ve found are ‘kinder’ on the drill bits too, in that because they ‘hammer properly’, the cuttings clear away, so you don’t need diamond-coated, forged-from-unobtanium drill bits
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I’d second drainage without having to actually open up the doghouse; I bought a Lidl boroscope and stuck it in my compressors inspection hole (ooo eer) and wished I hadn’t! Despite how much I’d tried to be meticulous about draining the tank overnight, it was still quite rusty. Mind you, I have no idea what corrosion protection (if any) the compressor manufacturer applied
So my plan is: fit an Autodrain valve on the compressor tank. These are N/C valves that will open at a programmable interval and ‘fart’ a little air and hopefully entrained moisture out. This will be run off a fused switched spur from the main compressor supply, that way whenever the compressor is powered the valve will be on too. I’d still like to have the ability to manually drain the tank, so will probably rig up some form of manually operated ball valve, run to outside of the doghouseI’ll put a manual drain valve at the lowest point in the pipework too, and upgrade that to autofart ™ later if necessary.
If it all sounds a bit VapourShed, that’s because it is. I think I mentioned in your other thread that I’m CAD-ing some planning drawings for a new workshop. Hoping to get these submitted early in the New Year. If and when approval happens I’ll start a proper thread.
Matt
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On 12/14/2016 at 5:58 PM, Cornish Rattler said:
If the shaft and nut size is the same u should be ok, I have a corded 9" grinder and a 4.5" grinder and when I wear a 9" disc down small enough I can use the same disc on the 4.5" grinder a bit of messing about swapping the disc over but saves wasting discs
Check the speed rating of the 9" disc!!! It might not be rated for the rpms the 4.5" spins at and 'might' come apart in an...interesting manner.
As for 4.5 or 5": I'd say 4.5", that extra 0.5" (fnar fnar) isn't that useful and 5" discs are more expensive. And the increased size of the disc guard means it's harder to get into tight spots.
Matt
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Interesting topic. Those who've fitted log burners, presumably you only need a 'single' skin flue pipe and not the ma-hoos-ively expensive double-skin stuff used in domestic installations?
Matt
Hobbyweld gas
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
I've found the Hobbyweld bottles are either not very full to begin with, or the bluddy things leak. It's seems mine are constantly empty, and I haven't done much welding recently. I always turn the bottle off too.
I might give BOC /Ryval a go, especially as I just started a job which doesn't offer flexitime, so getting to the welding factors in work hours is now a challenge, albeit the £19.50 delivery charge stings a little.