UdderlyOffroad
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Posts posted by UdderlyOffroad
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That allbrit website is pretty good.
Isn’t it! Usually have it on screen on an old laptop in my garage to refer to!
Back to the OP’s question, since found this build thread on Def2 – there’s some pictures on pages 2 and 3 showing the fuel tank mounting. I think the poster was a member on here a while back (Defender300tdi), looks like he’s moved to Oz.
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I'm more worried about being able to allow customers to just plug in Land Rover switches, etc. without having to modify each one first.
I think I understand what you’re trying to achieve, but I think your customers are quite likely to break the moulded rubber connections when trying to pull them apart. Certainly I pulled off and found the most horrible corroded mess. Therefore, if you’re trying to create some kind of drop-in replacement harness, you may well be able to, but your customers may still have a frustrating experience trying to install them.
Now if you’re talking about INSIDE the vehicle, they should be fairly standard ‘BL’ plastic connectors – have a look at the Autosparks website. Yes there are oddities, such as the hazard switch connector, but even these are available. Then, probably source them via RS components in Canada?
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Relevant posts from my lack-of-build-thread:
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=60254&page=3#entry714252
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Nope! Mounting is totally different, and a bit of a headache. Doesn't mean it can't be done, you need to figure out some bracketry, and possibly get the tie down strap from the TD5 and tie that into the chassis. I would give you more details, but I'm currently halfway through doing it on my 1989 110, a project which is currently on hiatus due to life getting in the way.
Also you'd need a 300 Tdi ROW fuel pump (WQB100440, actually just a pickup) and they ain't cheap.
Long story short: If you're doing a complete rebuild, and it's a rolling chassis, go for it. You'll get the benefits of a plastic tank, and the possibility to upgrade to a TD5 (or other engine requiring a HP fuel pump) at a later date should you wish. If you're just replacing a leaky tank on an otherwise working truck, pick up a OEM spec replacement tank.
Study the parts catalogues to get an idea of what's involved:
TDI: http://www.allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=759314&SPRACHE=EN
TD5: http://www.allbrit.de/UNI.cfm?PAGE=759422&SPRACHE=EN#5
HTH
Matt
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I need a receipt / letter from reputable garage confirming the engine number and fuel type
Write back and say you did the change yourself, send some pictures and a copy of the receipt from where you bought the engine...That's what the helpful chap from the DVLA told me to do when I phoned up asking about what to do about the letter they'd sent me demanding the same.
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Have you talked to specialist Land Rover insurers? I suspect that if you find the right one, they will not take too dim a view of the 200 Tdi. They are quicker than the N/As you're used to from REME, but not to the extent that they won't have the desired effect you're aiming for with you son.
Insurers who understand what they are talking about, know that a turbocharger is there to do a different job than on a petrol vehicle
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That might be what they told you, but I don't think that can be the case. Let's face it, if you buy a 40 year old Land Rover, how the smeg do you know if the axle casings on it are original anyhow?
What if you have a diff go and punch through the casing... would that mean you'd opt to scrap the car rather than replace the axle, but be at risk of it then losing its registration number.
I think this thread is descending rapidly into IVA police territory.
Rules are for the obedience of fools and the guidance of wise men.Report dodgy ads to Ebay / IVACS - and for the sake of the rest of us, keep your mods on your truck compliant with the '8 points' system whilst not obsessing about minuitae of the wording.
The slightly ambiguous wording is, as far as I'm concerned a good thing, as it allows some application of intelligence. There are plenty of countries where this is all locked down and controlled, and the tiniest mod must be reported to the authorities and tested. The UK isn't (yet) like that, and pushing the DVSA for clarification on these regulations will only result in one outcome, and we'll all moan like hell when that happens.
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I struggled with getting the bottom one to go in square. In my case it was because, once one is in place, there's nowhere for the screw of the clamp to go unless it's out to the side.
Still live and learn.
You've certainly taken the belt, braces, and bit-of-string approach to this job!
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I see your point and would normally agree, but i will be amazed if the tool works. I've done a few now and every one i've had to resort to burning the ball joints out with the oxy acetelene. Good luck!!
As I said above, the tool worked for me, albeit with nipsy-clenching amounts of torque needing to be applied to it. The thread appeared not to show any signs of wear afterwards. Like most DIYers, I can't justify an oxyacetylene setup.
Matt
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I've just done this on my disco 2, with that kit from that seller! Also because of an MOT failure
- Buy replacement nuts. The bottom ball joint nut especially will have been exposed to all the salt and corrosion thrown up by the wheels, so will require Mr Angry Grinder to remove. The nuts are M14x1.5 and M16x1.5, so NOT stocked by DIY places
- Lube the thread on the 'clamp'
- Torque required to press out ball joints will be many, many grunts. I used 3/4" breaker bar with scaf-pole extension
- In case you haven't seen it, have a read here and here. Don't worry if you don't parler français (or even ozzie!), the pictures will help.
- I took the halfshaft/wheel hub out as one assembly, which meant for belt and braces I needed to replace the oil seal. For the sake of £4.50...that said I don't know if the P38 has the same arrangement.
- Careful doing above, I think I graunched the ABS sensor cable so now have ABS light showing on dash (sigh).
Hope that helps
Matt
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mmmm tempting. I just wish they did a decent mains-powered one in LED form.
I did post instructions on how to build the DIY 'budget' version a while ago...
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I saw some galvanised ones for sale at Newbury sortout recently. Didn't stop to inspect them closely tho.
I too saw them, and didn't ask either, but given he was knocking out 'NAS' style rear steps/tow mounts in galv for £240, I reckoned 'too much'.
Finish was farm gate, but I'm of the opinion that that's what galvanizing is.
I was umming and ahhing about having mine dipped too - after I've repaired them. The conclusion I'm coming to is that they're thin enough gauge to allow them to be bent back into shape should they warp, so will probably go for it.
So not much help really!
Matt
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All the threads on my Salisbury Drum-to-Disc made my brain hurt too...
In the end I copied the LR parts catalogue, which removes the need for spacers. The only time I deviated was the hubs, 300 TDi Discovery rears.
All fitted together perfectly, apart from a senior moment late one night when I attempt to fit the front hubs instead.
I managed to find the spacers on a scrapper for not much, but apart from those and the hubs, I was able to use all new parts, and the cost was somewhere around £250...
Matt
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Aldi had some of the LED underbonnet types on special a few weeks ago. I got the feeling they weren't selling that well, as at £30 they were above most peoples' 'take a punt on it' on price, and more into 'Bolton Warcry'* territory. Therefore it might be worth keeping an eye on the 'reduced' bin. I am...
Matt
*"'OW much?!!"
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I keep meaning to ask....What is the purpose of having a "small" peice of air hose between the tool and the main air line?
Stops the vibrations from the tool prematurely wearing the quick connect coupler out. It does make a difference.
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When you use the term "weigh in"... where do you do it? I'm in the process of making one good (ish) Disco out of two, then I plan to dispose of the 'donor' one. Who would you approach? Local scrap merchant? I understand they can't pay money for cars nowadays?
They can’t pay cash…my local place will still take scrap cars on their weighbridge, but you must have an account (no issue, just bring your driving licence) and you must bring along the V5 which they’ll stamp and you send off your bit. They’ll then print off a cheque (remember those?). Last time I did it, it was about £80/tonne for scrap cars, pure scrap metal is more like £110/tonne.
If you can bothered, as has been stated, extract the cat and the wiring loom if you’re feeling ambitious. That’ll get you separate £££
Matt
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Thanks guys, so that’s two in favour versus one against for Fat Max. Mike that’s pretty impressive given how harsh an environment boat yards are to kit. Nevertheless the ‘hammer through’ functionality is useful to have, even if it should be a last resort. I also quite like the grip on the US Pro stuff so will stick with what I know.
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I can confirm that an 88” sides will fit a 110, which isn’t the question you were asking, but am sure a Series-person will be along soon to confirm compatibility ‘the other way round’.
What I will say though, is if you’re concerned about leaks and rattles, CSW sides for a 110 could well be a case of out of the frying pan, into the fire! They are a terrible design. It can be cured by drastic measures (there’s a thread on here about replacing them with a solid piece of glass). I’d suggest that you’re better off keeping it ‘standard’ and replacing the quarter lights on 88” sides, albeit that might be a bit spendy if you do it all with new parts and OE rubbers.
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All,
As subject line really. The time has come to replace my US PRO Tools Screwdriver set for my main toolbox. They’ve stood up well to 7yrs+ of use and abuse, but finally some of the tips have snapped off and the pozi drives are getting a bit worn. So am tempted to replace them with another set of the same, but am curious as to what others are using?
Matt
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Couple of weeks ago I went to Wellington Welding in Avonmouth, got a cylinder of Hobbyweld 5, 137 bar, 9l.
http://www.hobbyweld.co.uk/default.php?page=35
‘rent free’ in that you pay a £60 deposit (you get £40 back if you don’t want the cylinder anymore), £30 to fill. All plus VAT. So I paid £108 total for a cylinder. No rental or contract or having the bottle tested.
Bit of a wrench to the wallet, but equally, beats faffing around trying to get pub cylinders filled or those stooopid disposables...(MIG) welds seem ok with that mix too.
Matt
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Article at Think Defence about the replacement for the Land Rover
Actually I don’t think that much of the article: the guy is an experienced traffic cop but doesn’t seem to have much grasp of engineering. Or indeed mention how the MOD uses ‘green’ and ‘white’ fleet vehicles, and how these traditional distinctions are more hazy than they once were. For all we are snotty about the comics, some of the Bob Morrison military vehicle articles in LRM are more insightful, but definitely well into anorak territory! Nevertheless, the author of this article links to some interesting vehicles..
Having test-driven an Amarok, it was amusing to see that the first thing the Achleitner did for its Geson model is get rid of the stoopid bluddy 'acres of plastic' bumper and replace it with some proper metalwork.
Matt
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Ignoring for a moment the niceties of the LEZ and DVLA (basically, if it’s an 1980s-era 110, the information on your V5 will be suitably vague and therefore you won’t have to change anything, not that the DVLA would let you anyway!). Just expand on James’ comment somewhat
The basic 110 chassis is the same, all the SW-specific brackets just bolt on.
Parts site Linky
I bought all of the bracketry from various websites new, and it came to £120, IIRC. I then had them galvanised. You can just see it in the centre between the chassis rails
Chassis After Galving! by udderlyoffroad, on Flickr
What you might struggle with however is the SW body tub, pillars and doors. They are commanding a premium now, as many folk (myself included), buy a hard top (van) or pickup and then realise they need to transport more than 2 people, in order to be able to justify the LR to their partners! Best bet is to keep an eye on Ebay for stuff local to you. Or, go to the Newbury sort-out early and cut a deal with someone.
Matt -
Not illegal, but same as with cars, one now needs an IVA/SVA...
More info here, though you'll lose the will to live reading it.
Matt
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It's odd that they can't be used as they are stretched? What about imported US limmo's?
Am sure they could be IVA/SVA'd, but probably not worth the hassle, after all they've got enough private land to drive it about on...
CNC Plasma - Group Build?
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
Sounds like a plan Si. I'd love to be an early adopter but I've got too many projects on the go and not enough space, so unusually for me I've restrained myself and didn't put my hand up!
I'll let others be trailblazers and order a kit-o-bits in a year or two. As well as the inevitable tweaks to the design, I'd be interested hear the how the cheaper plasma cutters perform...
Matt