UdderlyOffroad
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Posts posted by UdderlyOffroad
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Wow, some really useful stuff on here, thanks Defender_300TDI!
A blatantly O/T question, apologies, but how did you repair and/or refurb the battery box to such a high standard?
Nice to see the wiring done properly too!
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Are those the same thing as 3.5mm jack plugs? Because RS/Farnell/CPC/Maplins should all have them.
Nope, thicker and more poles than a 3.5mm. Used in Whirleybirds to connect the crew's headsets to the intercomm/radio. An avionics supplier should be able to get them.
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I think I gave up trying to run 3Dmark around about the '06 version...the 'you must be joking, mate' error messages got too depressing...
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Retro,
I know you've made your decision but I'd just thought I'd share my thoughts:
I'm in the position where my truck is in pieces, and I've welded up what needs to be welded on the chassis, and will shortly be painting it. But at some point in the near future the rear crossmember will need doing. So I looked at the galvanised chassis option. As you said, you won't get much change out of £2k, which is fine and of itself but the fact remains I don't have £2k now. I could save up for it, but I want to use my truck this year, dammit all. So I've taken the make do and mend approach with the chassis, and maybe one day i'll re-chassis the truck. Hell, if that lot on youtube can do it in a weekend I reckon a month of Sundays should sort it.
But, if I had the money I would do it - and if you can find the dosh I certainly wouldn't discourage you or anyone else from doing it either.
Just my tuppence...
Matt
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I think I've confused what's meant by bulkhead, apologies!
Yes, the bulkhead should be part of the tub, and I intend to ply-line the rear, including a floor to ceiling level bulkhead to create a seperate load area, as previously advised.
And yes the double cab bits seem to go on Ebay for the same prices as good quality rocking-horse manure!! :-D
That said, I think I've managed to source a SW rolling shell, so should end up with all the bits I need, assuming all is well!
Am picking it up on Saturday so will report back, and in case anyone googles this thread at a later date, will post a full list of bits once I've done the conversion.
Thanks for your help all.
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Rick,
Thanks for your responses! Am in Bristol by the way.
Don't listen to people who tell you that the chassis are different. Certain outriggers and body supports are, but they all bolt on and off.
I did suspect that from looking at the parts book but wasn't sure...If by 'c' pillar you mean where the 2nd row doors close to,then I cant see any problem, matches up perfectly on the truck cab anyway.Yes, by C pillars I just meant what the doors shut against.
For the rear bulkhead, I used a cut down Hi Cap one, but I needed the panel the truck cab bolts to. Landrover do this panel, but I think it was about £300. I had a quote for £150 to make one out of chequer plate, Rebel 4x4 do one, or you could use the one out of your hard top, but that will make the rear tub pretty useless if you want to sell itThe rear bulkhead should be part of the bodytub itself, so I shouldn’t have to chop my current tub into pieces?
My truck is currently stripped down to its chassis so it makes sense for me to do the conversion now rather than later
Just another thought, since the only real difference between the utility and the station wagon basicaly are the rear sides, could you not still have fold up seats in the rear to keep the 10 seat config. I really have no idea what implications this would have with DVLA or the LEZRick
I’m not too bothered about the fold up seats in the rear, my main aim is to have a completely separate rear load area and passenger area. The van sides from an 88” are mainly for security, so I can leave gear in the back without it being on show – I’m going to get some vinyl to ‘black out’ the rear door window.
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I think you mean this cross-member linky, p/n KVB500230
As I understand it (so not very well), one merely needs to bolt weld this to the van chassis in the correct place? This means the chassis number doesn't change. I may however be wrong on this one...
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I know it’s been covered here before, extensively, for instance linky, and I’ve been perusing the parts book PDF looking for differences…
Am not too worried about the V5 issues, of course I’ll tell the DVLA/insurance about the seat numbers etc, but frankly as far as LEZ goes, I try to avoid driving into London, and as far as I’m concerned this is yet one more reason why not to. Though not being able to pick up relatives from ‘Theafrow’ is a bit of a bind. Anyhoo…
What I’m concerned with at the moment is trying to put together a shopping list of bits I need, in order that I can put up wanted ad, so help from a grown up would be appreciated ;-)
In fact some helpful chap on ebay linkyhas even put up a kit, but his contains more bits than I want (have already sourced some doors, for instance, and will probably go the DIY trim route) and think he’s possibly over-valued what is after all a ropey old tub and some doors, condition unknown…
Question1: The roof is the same, surely?
Question2: ‘C pillars’ are part of the van/©SW sides, surely?
Question3: Would like to put a bulkhead between the passenger compartment and the load-bay, anyone done this/have pics?
Shopping list:
CSW Tub
B pillars
Floor rails/floors?
88” sides or SW sides and replace glass with ally sheet
Seats of some kind
Seat belt mountings etc.
Anything else?
And yes I’d like to find a Station Wagon that’s going spares or repair local to me so that I can just rob everything I require and sell on anything else but it seems that even tax-and-ticket-less trucks are fetching big money at the moment.
Your help/comments/etc as ever greatly appreciated…
Matt
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What they all said: Overland != 110 or 130. For two people, at least.
I knew from the beginning that a 90 would be tight for my needs, space-wise (and the furthest I plan to go in the truck is Europe. For now...) So I bought a 110. That said I've only filled it brim-full of kit once or twice, when I moved house (Although in fairness it's now in pieces on my drive!)
However, the point I'm making is that you've spent thousands of hours building the truck you wanted. And you now have it. And, I might add, given numerous people including myself, valuable advice based on your experience - thanks for that. So there should be very little that will require you to deviate from this and upgrade to a 110.
The only thing I can think of is if Mrs Maverik starts talking seriously about having Mini-Maveriks? What then? If you've sold the Focus you'll either be in the position of having to buy another Eurobox , or change your 90 for something larger with the correct number of doors and seats.
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All I need to now is to find something for £4.25 and I'll get free postage!
Get a spare indicator/sidelight/stoplight; you know you'll need one sooner or later!
FWIW I had some bench seats in the back of my 110; fine for sitting in the back and brewing up, but quite uncomfortable for passengers as they would tend to slide about all over the place, though that might just be my driving...
One of the seat backs had clearly lost a fight with a stanley knife so have removed it and it now makes a very comfy kneeling mat.
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Try your local welding supplies place, they will usually be doing gas or know of somewhere which significantly undercuts BOC.
My local place for instance gives you a medium-size bottle for about £100 over 3yrs(hire, deposit, testing etc), with refills costing £30 or so. But they don't advertise it very well for some bizarre readon! (BOC mafia? ;-) )
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Ok I can only speak for myself as an amateur user but I have a £15 eblag rattle gun and a 2hp compressor (like the one you see advertised in the back of tabloid newspapers) and really for the uses I put it to its fine and will undo almost anything. If I do come across some nuts that are too stubborn, I tend to find that these will need work (freeing up with penetrating lube) or a breaker bar first. Just because you have the thules that will go into the >1000Nm range (that's a wrist-wrecker...), don't blindly set the undo-power to 11 and expect old LandieBolts to come apart. You'll damage something, worst case yourself.
</grandmother-egg-sucking-lesson>
That said, no-one is paying me for my spannering time. If I was doing this on the clock for a paying customer I would a) get trained b) invest in some decent tools.
In other words the comments of the above folks may be valid for them, but I do sometimes question the advice doled out on this forum; the majority of us are amateurs and do not have the funds available to by 'pro' quality kit, nor should we need to for most jobs.
All that said...I want a bigger compressor
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So a total of £2,230. Not a cheap experience, but then I figured that once i had done it, i would have it for life and that i must be able to earn some money on the side here and there in the next few years to pay it back.
Thanks for that Sam, as you say not cheap but should pay for itself after a while. Lack of cash will probably dictate I only do B+E so at least I can legally tow more than a sack of spuds in a sankey behind the 110...
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Ok, so I'll go off-topic (apologies), but how much did it cost you to get the C+E?
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Another vote for a Supra, doesn't have to be a turbo either. Just don't go overboard on lightening the weight, as you need some kgs over that back axle...
;-)
And if he wants to fit bucket seats, the Supra ones are quite comfy in a Defender, though you may want to remove the bulkhead bar...
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Car builder solutions catalogue (PDF, 23Mb!) has a breakdown of their various crimpers with cost-vs-usage advice, as well as a selection of un-insulated terminals
HTH
Matt
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Any chance of a picture please Scott?
Am currently working out how to make a headlining as they're like gold dust in the UK (never mind AZ??) so an inspiration picture of the lights/light location would be very useful...
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Without B + E you can only tow an unbraked trailer with a maximum loaded weight of 750kg.
IANAL but I don't think you're correct there. The leaflet you mention is here: linky
Which offers this little nugget:
A vehicle with an unladen weight of 1250kg and a MAMof 2000kg, towing a trailer with a MAM of 1000kg could
be driven by a category B licence holder. This is because
the combined MAM of the vehicle and trailer does not
exceed 3500kg and the MAM of the trailer does not
exceed the unladen weight of the vehicle.
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A friend has lent me his engine crane on long-term loan (so can't offer to lend it out, unfortunately). I would say that if you're pulling apart a Land Rover some kind of lifting arrangement over and above a jack is pretty much indispensable. Assuming you don't have access to a JCB/Forklift/Frontloader...
As Recklessengineer said, it's one of those things people sit on the fence about buying, but you only have to hire one for a couple of days before you've pretty much paid for one.
However, they do take up quite a bit of space, even when folded up!
What I will say though, is get down to MachineMart or where ever and by some proper lifting straps and shackles!! It's not worth risking your safety for the sake of £10 worth of lifting gear...
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Local welding supplies place
(Facepalm!) Good point! Thanks.
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Probably too late to mention it, but I have successfully connected Durite Anderson-stylee 175-amp connectors with genuine Anderson ones, seems to work ok.
FWIW am currently figuring out how best to route the thick battery cables on my bare chassis, will probably bolt one to the side of battery box too, as well for'd and aft.
Bit off-topic I know, but anyone found a good source for 35mm2 battery cable? Dun-bri do 10m rolls for £51-odd quid+VAT, anyone better that?
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Have purchased one of the LIDL units myself, see if it manages to revive the dead disco-battery ;-)
They were also doing 5 litre tankards of screenwash for £1.49...
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In fairness the "You and Yours" link was mentioned in post #4
Whoops, my bad!
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Speculation, Speculation, Speculation........
Part of living in a democracy is right to rant at other like-minded people on the internet at things the government purports to do ‘for our own good’, if you don’t like it, move to <insert name of pariah state> ;-)
Also, it’s not speculation, Discoron has an email from a credible source at the DVLA laying out the policy, and the ‘you and yours’ interview available in iPlayer with the minister concerned. Though I will agree that before those two sources were linked, this thread was a little short on facts, and I may be as guilty of this as others.
As for the way traders work; last time I test-drove a motor at a dealer he affixed a trade plate to the car. One assumes this will be the way forward.
Also, as has previously been stated, if your vehicle’s reg-plate is not showing as insured on the MID database you will get pulled over. This is already the case and has been for a while. The officer should then phone your insurance company in order to establish whether or not you’re covered. You can see this on numerous ‘cop’ programs shown on television (just be wary of old repeats on ‘Dave’!) - and from what I read there will nothing to change here.
Basically, the biggest issue I see from a practical point of view (assuming one is a normally law-abiding citizen) is before you drive someone else’s car (using your fully-comp policy, which you’ve checked covers you to do so) make sure they have insurance, by running their vehicle’s reg plate through www.askmid.com – that way you won’t attract the attention of the law…Also not driving it like you stole it usually helps…
I stand by my assertion though that whether or not we have all the finer details, this legislation is a revenue-raiser which will do 3/8s of sweet FA to counteract the problem it purports to solve. The police already have all the powers they need to remove an uninsured driver from the road. But it’s the tax-less, MOT-less, uninsured-less, not-even-registered scum they struggle with. Also, this will make it easier for the lazier officers in the constabulary to target the softer targets (get their detections up) rather than concentrate their efforts on the aforementioned pond-life.
Also, I’m slightly irked that the onus is now on you to ensure the accuracy of a record held on a database that’s run by a government department in partnership with the insurance industry! Just who does one turn to in the case of a complaint? The data protection commissioner? Just keep repeating the mantra ‘it’s for your own good’…
I did suspect that from looking at the parts book but wasn't sure...
Chassis Repair Options
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Ah got ya, start off with a non-ropey seatbox
That Fatmat stuff looks like the dog's dangly bits for use in a Defender, are you planning to cover it over with anything? Presumably in the passenger footwell area you'll want to protect it from muddy feet?