[Thoughts and musings on the new defender]

2 hours ago, Snagger said:

The 130 is pretty big

Unless you go to America where it looks like a perfectly regular-sized vehicle next to some of the tanks they drive.

I remember landing in Alaska and seeing a D3 in the car park looking like a Suzuki Jimny nestled into the row of vast pickup trucks.

[Snapped bolt Rover V8]

Sometimes a careful but firm tap on the remains of the bolt with a punch can break the corrosion on the threads, just don't punch it clean out of the housing

[MOG LR hybrid axle build]

Another moment in this thread where Stephen makes it look easy... "Oh yeah just knocking up my own half shafts in my garage, no big deal"

[What thread is salisbury diff pan bolt 607173?]

12 hours ago, Eightpot said:

I had a diff pan bolt on the bench today and an m10 nut ran up it perfectly

Hmmm, makes me wonder if the threads are M10 but the bolts someone's wound in there are not either that or it's been done so ham-fistedly that it's very hard to ID crusty cross-threaded bits

[Snapped bolt Rover V8]

Acetone + ATF 50/50 mix seems to be a popular solution in both senses.

I think welding is likely to work though.

[Good for another 2000 miles?]

Surely it ain't proper if it doesn't come in a plastic gallon jug that looks like it might've previously contained vital fluids for a tractor with a hand-written label stuck on it?

[P38a (re)build]

Just remember that sensors - especially lambda sensors -  can be easily confused by stuff that is not as they were expecting. For example your temperature gauge is not accurate if all the coolant falls out, and Lambda sensors are very easily damaged or clogged up or just confused.

Excess unburnt fuel, burnt oil or coolant going down the exhaust can clog them up and "blind" them, and exhaust leaks throw them wildly off (because they're measuring oxygen and a leak means air gets sucked in).

If it smells rich, it's rich, even if the lambda sensor has gone blind and is swearing you need 50% more fuel - trust your nose and the seat of your pants!

[Exmoor Trim Billet Door Handle Question]

If it were me I'd be chatting to Morris on the parts counter at Gotts, he knows everything.

[Thoughts and musings on the new defender]

Sliding callipers are simple (fewer pistons/seals/channels) and mean the outside part is only as thick as a brake pad and enough material to support it, although they probably do cost less I don't think that means they're worse, just a more efficient design.

The Freelander used them and although pins can bind up with gunk, the pads often came with new pins included - TBH I've had at least as much ar5e over the years with corroded or stuck pistons as with sliding calliper pins so I don't think there's much in it there.

[Mog 404 axles]

12 hours ago, Stellaghost said:

Was also looking at some 39.5 16.5 17 pitbull's, tyres only, just think they would be way too wide

I remember Dirtydiesel buying a set of them as they looked great but he ditched them very quickly for being "bl**dy useless", make of that what you will.

[MOG LR hybrid axle build]

That's nuts!

[Good for another 2000 miles?]

41 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

Agreed re:age/condition, but how many cars cost equovalent of the best part of 100K?

A quick google back to the 1960's with inflation suggests a DB5 would cost 60k today but the average house price was ~40k, so measured against a house it's not bad!

[Alternator wiring]

How did you determine the alternator is "giving a charge" but the battery is not getting any?

What voltages are you measuring where?

[Mog 404 axles]

14 minutes ago, Ed Poore said:

Double stack or quadruple stack some spacers 

Oh god no - I've seen a pickup with huge double-stacked spacers, it was terrifying.

[What thread is salisbury diff pan bolt 607173?]

1 hour ago, Eightpot said:

Yes my mistake, they are unf, which is the same as the diff studs. 

Prop bolts are definitely 3/8" UNF and the diff cover pan bolts are definitely NOT UNF... at least the ones that came out of mine aren't!

[Good for another 2000 miles?]

49 minutes ago, SPendrey said:

On a different, but related note, I just had to replace the rear subframe on my E-Class... common issue with Merc's of the late 2000's to early 2010's (mine is 2012).  I guess the idea of a "quality brand" doesn't mean so much?

Merc had a period in the early 2000's where they rotted like something from the 1970's, ISTR it was a combination of new management demanding they stop doing things so well and some fancy new eco-friendly paint that they didn't realise would bio-degrade quite as fast as it did

On the plus side it gave people a lot of great cheap engine donors as the cars just dissolved around the drivetrain.

[MOG LR hybrid axle build]

If you've got the space those horizontal mills seem to come up a lot for quite cheap... although they seem more specialised than regular vertical mills, I've seen Abom79 do a lot with his.

[Mog 404 axles]

1 minute ago, elbekko said:

I'm in for the pictures of 5 40" Treps stacked in/around LGT.

Easier to take the set off LGT and stow them and then drive home on the 40's would be quite a picture too!

[Fairey pto]

ISTR Dirtydiesel reckoning you could tweak the overload clutch up to get a reliable 20k pull from an H14, also can you clock the PTO round by re-drilling a couple of bolt holes and thus raising it up out of harm's way?

[What thread is salisbury diff pan bolt 607173?]

Looks like some talented person has managed to cross-thread a couple on mine in the course of fitting a stupid diff guard

I'm guessing 3/8" UNC judging by the look of it but all mine are a bit crusty so getting a good measurement is tricky.

[The "Pass the Bucket" 4x4 For Sale on Ebay Thread]

I was perfectly innocently surfing the internet when I saw this with my own eyes so now you have to as well:

 

Quote

Little story in this thing, built by my granddad who is an airplane mechanic by trade. The 1969 body was repainted by piece and assembled onto a 2018 Jeep chassis extended by 16” to fit the wheel wells. Motor is a 5 speed automatic V6, 3.6L w/ 185hp. Battery is in a passenger rear cubby to make space in the engine bay for the computers and wiring, ECM Fuel Injection. The differential was modified to suit wheel diameter (gear ratios changed), installed a Sport Exhaust for better performance. A variety of Interior and Exterior features of the vehicle are fabrications from the mechanic to make the vehicle more practical and even more durable. Reinforced Rear Door to support a spare tire, Custom Interior, Electric Fans, Led Lights, Air Vents, Sound System and Speakers, Coil Overs, Ample Cargo and Passenger Space. Built to be easy to clean and easy to maintain, also it’s well insulated for improved noise reduction. (The defender logo is just for looks it’s actually a Series 2A)

 

It's OK guys, it's got a badge that says "Trail Rated"

 

Honestly everywhere you look it just gets worse. I'm off to drink some used EP90 just to take the taste away.

[MOG LR hybrid axle build]

Interested to see how you get on with that, an indexer / rotary table has been on my mill upgrades list since about 5 minutes after I got the mill as there seems to be so much you can do with them.

[R380 help]

Not sure about the main box but I would just double-check it's not stuck in difflock as that can give the winding-up feeling, especially if it's all been apart recently the linkages could be out of wack.

[Td5 Temp Gauge and Sender - A Discovery]

1 hour ago, ThreePointFive said:

Explain like I'm five, though - what's the best selection of values? 38.47 ohms is 100c and 50 is 197.29, would that be enough?

Standard values close to that are 39 and 200, I'll see what I've got and pop a selection in the post.

[Td5 Temp Gauge and Sender - A Discovery]

You can short the gauge sense pin to ground to prove the needle moves, you can also stick resistors of known values from ground to the sense pin to see if it reads correctly - if you need a selection of resistors posting I'm sure I can sort you out a handfull if you let me know the values.