jonost24
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Posts posted by jonost24
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So, back to it at last
. 8 separate wires back to the ecu, then I can get these down to 4 lots of 2 for the DB37. Now I know the wiring diagram is idiot proof but being almost a complete idiot I just need some suggestions for the joins for the power side for the injectors. For example, do I splice wires together for 2&4 and 6&8, then 2 wires back to the relay, The same for 1,3,5 & 7, or is it best to splice 4 together somewhere in the engine bay with 1 wire per bank back to the relay? What is the general consensus on this? Zardos suggested 4 to 1 per bank, but dependent on the wire rating. Nige, with the wire you supplied is this feasible? This sounds pretty basic, but I don't want melty wires when I power up 
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It's milling too (although I know how to mill)...
I wouldn't want to manual mill hinges, I'd need 8 with my CSW! I might be able to use the work Haas MiniMill to do it though (Just need to ask the boss!)
Yes,a Haas MM would be ideal for that project. We have one and use OneCNC XR4 for the programming, takes the hassle out of G codes.....
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Stainless Steel door hinges & pins with lube point?
Ooops....sorry...turning..not milling...
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Stainless Steel door hinges & pins with lube point?
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One way of doing this is to piggyback 2 injectors together.
e.g.
green/grey from injector 1 plug to injector 3 plug, injector 3 plug to pin32
green/grey from injector 5 plug to injector 7 plug, injector 7 plug to pin33
Does it matter which injectors go to pin32/33? Could it be 5 & 3 to pin32 for example?
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Okey-dokey. Started running a few wires last night. Just for my own piece of mind...injector wires... I have 4 green/grey and 4 red/grey running back to the ecu. Are the four wires then tied together, thru the bulkhead to the ecu then 2 wires each into the 2 connectors? Do I then have 8 separate brown/orange wires going back to pin 30 on the relay? with blue/yellow going from pin 30 to the ecu? Do all these wires go into one connector?
I know this is all on the wiring diagram, but wanted to make sure no wires were spliced together.
As I said, I'm at the very start of the loom build, so just want to make sure my interpretation is correct.
Thanks
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In which case you probably want the PR4 crimper that Mr Freezer linked to above, the finished crimp will look like a B when looked at end on.
Good-o.....I'll get one of them then...thanks
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Depends which connectors you mean; I have different crimpers for insulated or uninsulated as the jaw shape is different.
I think most of the connections are the uninsulated type, like the injector connections and the coil pack connections, so I think it's a crimper that does those?
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Just started the loom :-)
A daft question, but I have the bog standard wire crimper, cutter, stripper that most people have. Is this suitable for crimping the terminals for the connectors, or is there some super-duper special job that gives a super-duper job?
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I had my delivery from Nige on the 21st August last year
I have done some work......honestly. My head was slightly distracted when I decided to try and get a bike licence.... . BUT.......I did my MOD1 test today, everything went well until the avoidance test.......unfortunately I locked up the rear wheel....instant fail 
I was concentrating too much on the speed....50Kph min....I hit 60 
.....and 65Kph on my emergency stop 
It's a sh!tter really, on practice I was regularly getting 52-54Kph.....So I've decided to give it kneck for a bit and get back onto the landy MS 
The cost of a bike test inc. bike hire etc is horrendous....so you have to put your sensible head on sometimes.It's something I might come back to next year maybe..... -
Could you use something like a cut down leather belt...one of the wide ones???
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I think you misunderstand jon. Regarding the MS side of things i was going to get in touch with nige, however im looking for the main vehicle wiring harness that includes fusebox, dials, instrument binnacle etc etc..
Ahhhh....I understand now.......
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See Nige, he sells a comprehensive loom kit.......
My link -
Try this for hand crank. Another thumbs up for MS......
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Hi Manxey. Not got into the nitty gritty yet, doing most of the "spannering" bits at the mo', trigger wheel, fuel rail, coil packs etc. But as they say "gently, gently, catchy Megasquirt".....
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Good job Manxey. I've also got my kit from Nige. Just tinkering away bit by bit. Hopefully I'll get the same result as you. Well done
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Take a look at this months LRO. A big yank v8 diesel with zf 4spd auto. Very nice
Maybe a couple of months ago.....I've passed the mag on now to a guy at work....
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Good news (i think). The seller rang me this morning before i had a chance to contact him (he had picked up my emails from the weekend). He says he will have it back to fix, so thats something i guess!
Good news...keep us posted...if you don't get satisfaction..name & shame
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That looks great. I've been tinkering with a Kamtec Bowler body on a Tamiya TT01 chassis. No progress recently. Trying to MS the 90
+ a new Staffy pup is taking up any spare time. But, hopefully get back to it sometime. I would recommend the Kamtec bodies in ABS, really nice to work with. I might do a defender in the future with a crawler chassis and motor. -
Did the trader appear reasonable when you were dealing with him? See what his response is going to be. If it drives ok, and you still like the vehicle, get him to repair the points raised, if not, get a refund. I would think as a trader, he wouldn't trade "sold as seen" like a private sale. I'm not an expert, but I'm sure you'd have rights.
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Put the steering on full lock to move the swivel ball out the way....I think.....
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Wouldn't there be a POWERGRIP belt and pulley you could use/adapt, Nige????
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F*ckin' Hell Nige........that's going to be a great piece of kit.
. 8 separate wires back to the ecu, then I can get these down to 4 lots of 2 for the DB37. Now I know the wiring diagram is idiot proof but being almost a complete idiot I just need some suggestions for the joins for the power side for the injectors. For example, do I splice wires together for 2&4 and 6&8, then 2 wires back to the relay, The same for 1,3,5 & 7, or is it best to splice 4 together somewhere in the engine bay with 1 wire per bank back to the relay? What is the general consensus on this? Zardos suggested 4 to 1 per bank, but dependent on the wire rating. Nige, with the wire you supplied is this feasible? This sounds pretty basic, but I don't want melty wires when I power up 
I have done some work......honestly. My head was slightly distracted when I decided to try and get a bike licence.... 
I was concentrating too much on the speed....50Kph min....I hit 60 
.....and 65Kph on my emergency stop 
It's a sh!tter really, on practice I was regularly getting 52-54Kph.....So I've decided to give it kneck for a bit and get back onto the landy MS 
The cost of a bike test inc. bike hire etc is horrendous....so you have to put your sensible head on sometimes.It's something I might come back to next year maybe.....
Sam's 3.5 Disco MEGASQUIRT START/FINISH INSTALL THREAD! :)
in MS-Megasquirt/Jolt
Posted
Just what I needed. The second pic answers my question about injector wiring.Thanks and keep the pics coming very useful.
Jon