[RRC V8 3.5 Efi - getting worse]

Just having a shufty around the coil area and found this small part bolted

next to the coil, with the wire going to the +ve side of the coil.

What is it ?

Is it worth replacing as well ?

Cheers, Jon

[RRC V8 3.5 Efi - getting worse]

Thanks for your replies fellas. I had thoughts it might be a break down in the coil, that's why I mentioned it.

I read somewhere that you can't fit a points coil to electronic dizzy and vice-versa ? If so, what part no,

place to get one from ?

Yes Nic , that is the aforementioned ve-hicle in the photo. I've had it 3 years in November.

Still learning, not too bad as a spanner-man, get a bit lost with electrics, especially when you throw

in Efi & ecu of an unknown quantity. I will probably go for a full strip down to bare chassis at some point,

maybe soft top, and certainly megasquirt, so don't really want to spend too much at the mo to keep

things going.

Once again , thank you all for your input

Cheers, Jon

[RRC V8 3.5 Efi - getting worse]

My 90 has on the odd occassion stopped, but then started again. Coming back from the in-laws tonight,

(about 8 miles) it decided to conk out about 7-8 times, not much fun when you're on a dual-carriageway

It drives, but loses power, battery light flickers, sometimes it kicked back into life, but mainly stopped.

Into neutral (4 sp auto), and coast to a stop. Almost straight away it started (on every occassion), got

started, went for about 1 min, then same thing again

Please oh please, can anyone shed some light as to what might be the cause.

Is it coil, fuel, electricky or anything ?

Please guys can you help me ?

PS. I have started to collect parts for MS, but that's a bit down the line due to costs and a 3-day week

for the last 4 months

Many thanks, Jon

[MJ/MS parts ??]

Sorry Bishbosh

Oi spose r shudder sed soider, nar thars u proppur jarb

Thats more to your liking

Cheers, Jon

[MJ/MS parts ??]

Thanks B69,

That's useful. Mines a 3.5 EFi with 4 sp auto from a RRC. Does that have any bearing at all ?

Cheers, Jon

[MJ/MS parts ??]

Hi guys,

Just trying to gather a few parts for MJ/MS.

I've just bought EDIS 8 inc harness

I need 2 Ford coilpacks & leads - Can these come off any Ford engine ie 1.4/1.8/2.0 Zetec ?

Trigger wheel 36:1 - What is the OD for the RV8 ? Any specifics regarding bore & mounting holes ? Am I right in thinking you can buy a brand new Ford transit one ? If so, what would the Part No be ?

VR sensor - I think I've got this with the EDIS 8, it states...... "EDIS-8 Ignition Module with very long wiring harness and SPOUT plug to set timing. User friendly, easy to mount, VR sensor with wireing harness (pigtail) used in a Megasquirt Megajolt System. These are the first and most important parts of the setup. The molule has been tested and in working order. "

MJ/MS - Which one? Where from? Will this control MJ and then MS at a later date - funds permitting ?

Beer ? Do I go for an Old English Ale - Maybe Theakstons Old Peculiar , or a continental lager , Grolsch maybe, or Special Brew

Have I missed anything ?

Help most appreciated.

Thanks in advance, Jon

[Battery going flat.]

If the only thing you're doing different is parking downhill, then there must

be a wire or something thats moves forward to make a connection of sorts,

to drain your battery. Try parking uphill, see what happens.

Not scientific, and it won't find the problem as the other guys have suggested,

but it might indicate something !!

[Does anyone know where my old V8 90 is...]

Nice truck. Must've been a tough call to sell ?

[Cutting out !!]

Does this sound more like an ignition problem, rather than a fuelling problem ?

If it is ignition, would converting to Megajolt be the answer ?

I've seen a Megajolt set-up on USA ebay for about £80 delivered, is it worth it ?

Has anyone got parts for sale in the UK ? I suppose EDIS 8, 2 coil packs+wires,

trigger wheel, sensor for trigger wheel ?? Anything else and at what cost ?

Cheers, Jon

[Cutting out !!]

Went to the tip this morning. On the way there the 90 cut out a couple of times, but re-started ok.

Its got a RRC 3.5 Efi, 4 sp auto. When revved up, as it settles back to idle, it drops below tickover

to almost stall, then picks up to normal tickover. I think this is why it cut out, because I was

coming up to a mini island, off throttle, when the revs dropped and it cut out.

Fortunately I was able to pull off the road to a rolling stop (heavy steering without the power)

Any pointers as to why or what might cause this ?

Thanks in advance, Jon

[Greasing wheel bearings]

Ahhhhhhhh!!!!......learning all the while

Thanks Guys

Jon

[Greasing wheel bearings]

Just finished off tonight by putting the caliper back on and wheel.

There was some one shot grease left in the swivel housing before

I fitted it all back together, but I bought some new one shot grease

to fill up.

My question...How on earth do you get the grease in the filler plug

with those plastic tubes when the swivel is so close to the housing ?

I did manage to squeeze the tube into the filler plug hole between

the swivel and casing, but only managed to get about a 1/3rd of

a pack in before it started to squeeze out the plug hole.

Any trick to it ?

Cheers, Jon

[Greasing wheel bearings]

Cheers Gromit,

Jon

[Greasing wheel bearings]

Replaced my cv tonight plus bearings and seals with new gaskets. When re-fitting the drive flange

I put a smear of grease on the gasket. In the Haynes book it says clean and dry.

Have I done anything wrong ?

Cheers, Jon

[CV Joint !!]

Thanks Les. That's right it's my offside that's clicking. I'm going to order a couple of cv's and

do the nearside as well while I'm on a roll . Silly me, although the bearings are covered in

a grey gunge, I forgot to apply a sideways pressure (tapered bearings) so in fact they don't

feel too bad, no notchiness or anything, BUT is it still worth me replacing them while I'm at it ?

They are Timken bearings LM603049, with a seal on both sides of the hub, although Haynes

only show a seal on the inner side of the hub Any one know what the part No's would

be for those seals ? They both look different.

I did notice when I unbolted the stub axle from swivel there was no gasket but what appeared

to be silicon sealer or something. Is it better to use a gasket ?

Sorry about this , but one last question then I'll p!ss off.

Shall I re-fill the swivel with EP90 as per RRC Haynes or one-shot grease ?

That's it for now

That's for all input, cheers, Jon

[CV Joint !!]

Okey dokey. Tonight I cleaned the cv joint and found that the ball-bearings were "slightly" pitted

but I did notice that on the outer inner cage (if you know what I mean) there were chips in the windows

where the ball sit, and also some wear on the windows. So I think I'll replace the cv joint, possibly double up

on everything, so I can do the nearside. I did also notice that the bearings looked clapped out, so I'll

change those as well.

In the Haynes RRC book it also says something about changing the spacing collar and the phosy-bronze bush

Is this something I need to do or not ?

Cheers, Jon

[CV Joint !!]

Thanks for your input Red. I'll give the cv a good check. If it's ok I'll pop it back on.

I don't think it's the tyres, they are BF MT but they shouldn't be rubbing. I'll also

check the other cv and take it from there.

Cheers, Jon

[CV Joint !!]

Thanks for confirming that Red. I tried to find the serial number where Dale suggested but can't find anything.

Red, if you say these cv's are strong, do you think it's still that that's causing the clicking ? As I said the cv

seem to be in good shape, or doesn't that mean very much. By the way I have found that cv in my Haynes RRC book.

The housing has had one shot lube in and not EP90. Would this make a difference, although it does look pretty well lubed.

Any suggestions before I dive off and buy a cv joint. By the way, any idea how much these type of cv's cost ? and where from ?

Thank you for your comments, more welcome

Cheers, Jon

[CV Joint !!]

Just checking paperwork when I bought the 90, and it does make mention of the rear axle being used off the RRC.

So I decided to strip down the "clicking" front offside.

I've attached a few photos. I've got the Haynes Defender/90 & the RRC manuals, but they don't appear to tie

up with what I've got.

I've tried to put the photos in order as bits came off. There doesn't seem to be a circlip on the end of the shaft, and the

CV joint just came out leaving the halfshaft in place.

Anyone recognise what I've got ?

The bearings appear to be in pretty good order, but also the CV joint "looks" ok. Is this just a false indication and

still worth replacing ? Shall I replace the bearings as a matter of course ?

Thanks in advance, Jon

[CV Joint !!]

Thanks Dale, that's useful info to know. Did you have to disconnect the brake caliper ?

I assume the cv comes out with the halfshaft and then you "knock" the cv joint off ?

Where's the best place for a cv joint ? MM4x4 are close to me. Would it come as a kit,

with gaskets etc ?

Sorry to be a PITA

Any tips would be useful

Cheers, Jon

[CV Joint !!]

I think it's time to change my offside cv joint . I've the obligatory "clicking" on left full lock for some time,

and today after a trip to the tip I've got a squeel when turning right, from the ofside front........I think.

Is the squeel another sign of a knackered cv or something else ?

How do I tell which cv I have ? or is it just a case of taking it off and having a look ?

Where's the best place to get a replacement cv, quality/price wise ?

While it's apart, is it worth changing anything else ?

Any special tools required, and any awkward bits to watch out for ?

It's an '87 90, was a 2.5D but changed to a 3.5 RRC 4 spd auto, don't know if the previous owner changed

the axles as well, or would they be similar reagrding the parts I require ?

Sorry for all the Q's, but want to get it right

Thanks, Jon

[draper socket sets]

I've had a Draper set for about 25 years now. They've been used and abused, bashed and squashed,

but still going strong with no breakages. If I needed to buy another set I would seriously consider

another Draper set no probs.

Jon

[Spare Wheel Mounted On Hard Top Side Panel]

If you, or you new someone who was good at fabrication, what about something like a drop-down

carrier mounted on the rear x-member ? This would give a platform/worksurface when dropped down.

The only downside (no pun inteneded) would be opening the rear door from the inside

[Heated Rear Screen]

Thanks Ralph,

I've seen the "how to" for removing the VSR, and just use the switching relay on its own. Would this relay be rated at 30A or 40A do you think ?

I'll need to plan carefully on my own installation, maybe using VWP for parts !!

Thanks , Jon

[Heated Rear Screen]

Had another look yesterday, can't find any spare wires or connectors behind the dash. I have the

bracket on the bulkhead for the relays, but no connector blocks to plug the relays into, hence

no wiring. Should the wires be in the loom somewhere behind the dash ?

Could this be a dash out jobby, including the bit above the fuse box etc ?

Thanks, Jon