heath robinson

The other advantage to this is that I've got a bunch of 3000F supercapacitors, meaning that I can bung an anderson on a bank of them and have a lightweight jump pack.

Thanks guys. The 110's got pretty soft +2" springs at the moment, and I really like the way it rides most of the time - it's got one of Si's unlockable ARBs, which is pretty much the best thing since sliced bread. 90% of the time it's fine, but occasionally it needs to cross the country with the back full of oak, or cross a muddy festival site with the back full of beer, and both of those make it a bit of a pig due to the arse sinking down. I looked at the helper springs, but they're not occasional enough, if you see what I mean. I don't want to make it harder for the most part, just have the option when it's needed. When it's loaded up, it sort of screams "pull me, I'm overladen" long before it actually is.

Also, I'd really prefer to get a separate compressor so I can do tyres etc. as opposed to a single dedicated one for the springs.

Hi all. I'm after some air helper springs for the 110, but the only ones i can find are the airlift ones, and there doesn't seem to be a simple option to run them off a compressor. The ones from the states are nice and cheap, but don't fit 110s. Ideally I'd like to be able to control it on the fly, is there a system that'll do that? Any advice/thoughts/experiences gratefully received! Cheers Jake

I've got stacks of 50mm-sq multistranded welding cable, so I'll make some up out of that, and just buy the kit of anderson bits from ebay. Cheers.

Does there not seem to be a slight disparity between the 1200A cable and the 175A connector? I know that you shouldn't be actually starting the other vehicle off yours, rather charging their battery for them to start from, but am I over-thinking it? Would I want a bigger anderson to be sure? I suppose that the croc clips are the weak link, I don't recall seeing any that are rated much over 150A, and even then you'd struggle to get them to grip onto a terminal well enough to flow much above that current anyway, so maybe 175A would suffice. Certainly a damn sight cheaper than the 350 ones!

Where did you get these? I've been looking at doing this recently, but for that money I'll just buy the kit!

Got it, just took an unbelievable amount of cranking. Is there anything that might cause it to be hard to bleed up?

Everything's assembled correctly, pipes are in the right places etc. and it's very close to starting now. I think everything's ok, it's just taken it's time to prime up - purged it 5 or 6 times, I think my main issue now is just the battery getting low. It came so close last time, but the battery was sounding a bit too flat. The charger isn't a fast one, so I'll just have to wait.

I'm fairly sure, but I'll check again. The one with the clip connection is on the top. I'll try the purge again for good luck, it's sort of coughing a bit now, which is a good sign, I'm just a bit wary of overheating the starter and ruining the battery.

Hi all. I changed the fuel pressure regulator earlier, and now the thing won't start. I did the priming thing, have checked for obvious screw-ups, changed the hinge pins on the rear door, and the bonnet release cable, and had several cups of tea, but it still won't start! I've had a charger on the battery for most of the day to ensure that it's spinning and glowing as much as it can. It'll cough over with easystart, but doesn't want to run. Any tips/tricks/advice etc would be very welcome, as the warehouse is beginning to get pretty chilly, and I can't get home if the thing won't start! Cheers

that was on the tip of my tongue, honest! Thanks

Does anyone know the number for the little bit of plastic trim on a td5 defender door that goes around the lock thing (actuator/button/knob/uppy-downy-bit)? Thanks, it's getting inconvenient having the knob flopping around all over the shop.

Thanks for the replies guys, I think I'll stick with the LUK job for now then. It's cheap enough that I won't feel terrible if it doesn't last a million miles, and I didn't really want to loose the DMF just to gain a few more miles on the clutch, especially if there's a question of it damaging the gearbox. Any suggestions for a cheap supplier for LUK bits Nige? Cheers

I need a bit of advice from those who've put in either a ceramic clutch or a rakeway job. The clutch has gone in the 110 TD5, and looking a heavy duty clutches give me two choices - Nige's ceramic job, or the rakeway kit. Both equally spendy really, so what it comes down to is practicality. The truck does a lot of towing, sometimes with less-than-experienced landrover drivers, and gets driven by loads of different people, of varying abilities. So would the paddle clutch cause problems? I like the idea of a fit-&-forget thing, but don't want to make the truck unusable by average joe, or awkward for towing. Can you slip it a bit when you're pulling a plant trailer with about 3.5t on it? There are times when it's driven by people with a trailer licence, but no concept of a low box... Cheers Jake

Brilliant Si, thanks. I'll start with Dave then, cheers.

Hi all. I've searched in vain for the thread about using a 130 clutch to make up a heavy duty job for a 110. It's a 2001 TD5, and the clutch is well on the way out. I was intending to buy one of Nige's all-metal clutch bearings, and get an LUK clutch plate and cover, but can't remember if it's both bits from a 130, or just one, and which in that case. If anyone can shed some light, and even give me a pair of part numbers, I'd be very grateful! Thanks, Jake

Hi all. Our TD5 has started acting up a bit - it makes some rattly knocky noises when cold, doesn't seem to be getting enough fuel at the top of the rev band and generally makes less power than it did. It's also started using oil, and beathing oil a bit more than it did. I'd like to get someone to look at it, as even if it's something I could fix, I don't know enough about diseasles to diagnose the problem. We've also fitted a new intercooler (as the old one popped, and was full of oil) which is bigger, so it could do with remapping when it's all working right. Can anyone recommend anywhere around Brighton that's trustwothy and competant, and if possible won't cost the earth? Thanks

Will do, thanks. If I'm going to have to pay for a full set I may as well buy a decent trusted brand, it's not the kind of thing to see if britpart might be ok for!

Aha, no sign of one, so I'll make one up. Thanks.

Ah, I'll have a look for that then. Going to be a damn sight more expensive though! Thanks

I need a new R/H seat belt buckle for a 2001 td5 defender. All the ones I've found so far either say >2000 or puma, no mention of the intervening years. Cheers Jake

So in the 4 square inches you can't get a hand to above the gearbox mount then... Joy! I've found two different drawings, neither of which show that. One claimed it was on the transfer box, above the front flange! Thanks again Western, knowing I don't actually need it will save me messing about lying in my folks gravel instead of just taking it home and doing it in the warehouse with the trolley jack. Cheers

Hi, second question of the day - how might I stop my egr delete pipe leaking where it joins against the inlet manifold? It's always leaked, so I took it off and cleaned it up, then refitted it with a thin layer of hylomar, and that seemed to work for a bit, but it's leaking again now. Would making up a gasket do the trick? Cheers Jake

Hi all. I've got an mot booked early in the new year, and thought that swapping the reverse light switch would be easy - wrong! I can't find the bleeding thing for love or money! It's a 2001 td5 110 with an R380 (I'm fairly sure). The manual and parts catalogue all suggest that it should be to the right of the gear lever, but the hole in the casting there isn't actually a hole, just a blanked-off recess where the hole might have been. Any ideas? Cheers, and happy Christmas. Jake