heath robinson

I too have had the handbrake issue. The little doober that splits the cable's force onto the brake shoes (doober is the officail turm I believe) can sieze, either on or off, depending on how the mood takes it.

I don't think so, if you look at the copper coolers in big PA amps (as I've spent all afternoon doing) none of them are coated, and they have to dissipate some serious heat. Same goes for all the coolers in computers etc. Nice coil though! Really good, you just need to make sure it gets good airflow now.

Picking them up for the first time lays to rest any thoughts of weakness in those turrets, doesn't it!

There are 180A ones of some BMWs, Mercs and VWs I think. Fairly standard fitment ones come from the VW Transporter, the merc and beemer ones are the short-bodied kind it that's easier to fit in the engine bay.

A cheap plumbers pipe bender, it's easy to use, quick, and doesn't wrinkle the inside of the tube.

Ah. While good for you, that's not too handy for me. I might give the galvanisers a ring and see what they say about doing a tank.

Looking at YRM's site, I've found a few more bits that I could do easily, or as mine's an '84 model, are already done (Smugness radiates from every pore...) Upper rad mounts NRC4839 & NRC8609 slam panel under braces (terribly worded I know) no number as yet Underfloor supports ATF710090 A post stud plates MRC5785 * Mud flap brackets, if you're that way inclined sill rail to mid crossmember brackets MRC6359 & MRC6360 Seatbelt bulkhead bracket - no number as yet Seatbelt to chassis bracket nut plate NRC9698 * Sill rail L/H MWC3337 & ALR5309 Sill rail R/H MWC3336 & ALR5308 Sill rail stud plate MRC5785 * Sill rail bracket MRC9438 * Exhaust bracket ESR2945 * Most cost effective to just buy them from YRM or somewhere I think

I have a feeling that for an mot the exhaust has to exit behind the rearmost side window, in addition to not pointing up pedestrian's noses etc.

Diesel and I are not the closest of comrades either, I think the V8 would run a little lumpy on it... Does anyone know if petrol would fare any better? I'm going to use the 90 tank so as to be able to fit an LPG doughnut in place of the standard 110 tank. If only LPG tanks came galvanised! I don't think 've ever seen one on the outside of a vehcle that didn't have peeling powdercoat and a bit of rust underneath. The gearbox and engine mountings are definitely a good idea, and luckily for me most of my suspension gubbins came from a Mr G Lewis, so is already gav'd. Jockland John or Giles, do either of you remember where you got your tanks? I have a feeling they'll be out of my price rance (and I've already got a 90 tank ready to go) but it's worth checking. I also ought to have a good look at the tank I have, as it's second hand, but is suspiciously shiny, so may well be galv'd or anodised! Which would be nice. It would be my pleasure Western, I'll try to compile it in a less my-vehicle-specific way, and make sure that I get all the part numbers.

Axles I'm treaging as a separate thing for now, as I have bigger plans than just using standard gear, but I'm definitely considering having them dipped when the time comes. Would dipping a 90 tank be OK? That'd be magic, as it's one of the few things that genuinely let me down due to rust in the past. I'd just be worried about cleaning it out after, and would it be OK with no extra holes do you think? Really good idea if it could be though!

Already done - Chassis Crossmember Steering guard Body cappings Bumper Gwyn's suspension goodies 90 tank front mount NRC9474 spring seat plates, front NRC9700G and rear NRC4317 wing to bulkhead straps MRC5153 Steering column mounting bracket (Number?) Bulkhead toe box supports NRC7435 and NRC7436 Still to do - Bulkhead Tankguard Bracket supports NRC4661 and NRC5478 Body mounting brackets NRC7053 Outrigger rear body brackets LR514BM (these last two are from memory, I need to check in the lockup.) Rocksliders (although they're not yet welded up...) Tub crossmembers (MUC8949) body stay centres MRC6019 Plate Bridge NRC7164 and NRC7165 toe box packing pieces NRC7131 engine and gearbox mounts (Numbers?) Recovery ring NRC5396 and backing plate 562756 JATE rings (Need two more though) Military rear bumperettes Seat belt mountings (Number?) exhaust hangers that are bolted to the chassis (Number?) Slam panel MUC4806 Maybe/not yet/not sure about - door frames Inner wheel arches at the front Shock Turrets Sill channels I'll ammend this again later, my brain's going squiffy looking at all the parts manuals etc!

Trawling Ebay means I now have a few pre-galv'd bits extra, including all four spring seats (Yes, I immediately went back on what I said there!) the steering columb mount, the wing-to-bulkhead straps, the 90 fueltank mounting bracket (£35 odd galved from ebay, £45 from sh*tpart! Win) and the bulkhead mounts (NRC7435/6 maybe?) and a set of zinc-passivated bulkhead captive-nuts, just for completeness. Also, my dad has just remembered that he's got a 300tdi bulkhead proping up one end of a makeshift bench in the garage! So a bit of shotblasting and a few repairs are in order, and I'm a happy bunny! I'll collate these ideas into one list in a moment, and try to get all the partnumbers right from the manuals.

The cooling loop on my friend's truck (6x6 ex-army thing with a 10l cummins in it, so a big engine-driven compressor, so high air flow.) has a copper coil that we made out of standard copper pipe (standard stuff will cope with 10 bar happiy, it's the joints you need to watch). Just get a plumber to make you a tightish coil of fairly small pipe, as many turns as you can fi i the given space. Proper braised joins are plenty strong enough - one of our weird refridgerant devices sits at 20 bar happily, althou that's small bore thick walled copper pipe.

That's a whole host of goodies, nicely done. Does anyone use the decent stainless twist-wire brush wheels for small angle grinders? I can only ever seem to find them with £15 postage on them, from germany etc, but they're brilliant, and if I could lose some of the postage would be worth getting.

Read the bit about "10k boost" on this thread, and indeed about BP premium fuel in the second page, that should help.

Someboby got visited by the chequerplate fairy then...

I've been doing this in my old LT35, on the say-so of a generally knowledgable friend, but I don't do enough miles in that to know if it helps... The engine runs perfectly, however since putting 2-stroke in the diesel, the diff's lost all it's oil, and all the wires to the back end have desintigrated and shorted out I know that's not really what you wanted to hear, but from what I read at the time I started doing it, it made sense to me.

+1 Definitely worth ringing that chap, Owen if I remember rightly. A friend bought a bloody massive 400A 3 phase mig lump from him for about £350!

+1 for namrick. I'd forgotten about them! used them in the past, and been happy with them. Also, Wentins have a website - http://www.wentinfasteners.co.uk, but I don't know about their mail order prices, as they're just down the hill from me...

I think there's a thread on here detailing it, but in essance you whack it in between the air box and the Y pipe. Bung the LPG feed into it and voila! Obviously there's a small amount of tuning to be done, but nothing to taxing by the sound of it, provided you can work out which end of a screwdriver is the useful one (and maybe can poke about with a colourtune etc...) That said, I now can't find the thread I meant, but I'll keep looking, as the pics were quite handy. To be honest, I've read such glowing reviews of starting/idling on the BLOS carb, I'm tempted to do away with the petrol entirely and just use an EFI manifold/plenum/throttlebody, and Megajolt it. One chap I read the account of was running just BLOS LPG on a truck up in the wilds of Canada, and said it ran flawlessly through the bloody chilly winters up there. I've just ordered the carb, and should things go to plan, I'll have a capri and a 2.9 24v V6 to put it on buy the end of the week Oops!

I have to say that the ball ache when something goes awry far outweighs the hassle of the RAC/AA inspection and paperwork. When I stacked my 110 it had a 4.2 in it instead of it's origional 3.5, and although the insurance knew, the DVLA didn't. This gave the insurance (Lancaster, who were useless, underwritten by Equity Red Star, who are complete barstewards) the opening to try to renege on their agreed valuation. It took me a year of bother, and eventually a summons to the small claims court before they paid up! Do it right now, and sleep easy now and forever more.

Hi all. This is a two part thingy. Firstly, there are a few things I've found of late that just work a bit better than areage, and that I thought others might benefit from knowing. I'm in no way affilliated with any of these companies, I hasted to add. Secondly, I'd like your recommendations about this kind of stuff. Where do you get your bits, and have you found anything that just works that little bit better? Specifically, does anyone know a good supplier of the stainless twist brushes for angle grinders? But really anyone who supplies above-average abrasives/nuts'n'bolts/paints/general workshop necessities, prefferably at below average prices. Come on, tell us yer secret sources! Having spent forever locked in an old fridge truck box doing metalwork, I've found that some stuff doesn't handle the pace, while other stuff shines. The ceramic abrasive flap wheels from Weldequip.com are great, and although they cost about the same as some zirconium ones, they last far longer (If you're not a berk, and refrain from plowing them edge-first into sharp edges etc). The 40 grit ones eat steel remarkably fast too. I splashed out on a new angle grinder, getting the baby bosch one, the gws 7-115. It's tiny! i can touch my fingers around the handle! This really makes a difference if you're holding it one-handed for any lenght of time. And at £40+vat from Wentins Fastners in Yeovil, it's fairly cheap too. In fact, Wentins deserves special mention, as they are the nuts. Literally. And finally, Inverter Fusion in Honiton. The welder I got from them (180MA) is brilliant, and their rods etc are really well priced too. Enough waffle from me, I hope that this helps somebody at some stage.

You can seal the seams? I thought those gaps were there for drainage and ventilation

I've always said that the minute my 110 doesn't make me smile, I'll sell it. Irritatingly, even the pile of bits that's it's current shape make me grin, so I'm being forced to go through the expensive process of re-building it... Having spent the last 6 months driving a modern car (a Passat, which was very luxurious and all that), I've had to sell it. The fact that it scrapes the floor with my driving style down lanes all the time was annoying, the fuel economy dropping to about 35mpg when I drove it hard (most of the time) kept making me think "I could be driving something much more interesting on lpg for this money", and the final straw was repeatedly loosing it in car parks. Who wants to look like the rest of the schmucks? Having fornd that only 5'10" of my 6' comfortably fits in a spitty with the roof up, I'm now leaning towards a Capri. Different, I know, but I can't find anything RWD and rag-topped in my price range that won't make me look like I spend my time trimming well-dressed young mens hair... I'm thinking that a capri is just the ticket, and a judicial application of MJ and LPG should see me on the road to fairly affordable fun.

I'd like to throw the BLOS carb into the mix of your ideas here. The more I research these things, the more this seems perfect. With a changable ignition map, and a BLOS carb (A self-regulating carb, works of manifold vacuum like an SU, but without any throttle or butterfly. Very effective, and much less restrictive than a mixer ring. I think Zoltan uses and likes these.) you'd have the most efficient/simplest/cheapest LPG rig currently available. I'm ordering one of these imminently for my own devious machinations. Linky... Not me or nuffin, just a suggestion.