heath robinson

I'm not sure that that isn't a part unique to Marslands, as I've never seen it anywhere else, on TD5's or otherwise. The TD5 rear crossmember on the back of my dad's has the welded tags like all the older types.

I've always used a dial-type gauge. Mine's a chunky thing with a thick rubber surround and a metal air shaft like this. It's survived my mistreatment for the best part of 10 years, and is easy to read at night, or use wearing gloves. You can get them with a needle that sticks at your tyre pressure, which you then release with a little button, although this can in my experience get filled with mud. It's amazing the variety of things that can get filled with mud.

To be honest, I can see how the effect could be achieved if you could get the torque converter to lock by choice. I think, from what I've read, that this is quite a tricky proposition. The actual workings of the valve pack without the kickdown cable, or the converter locking up at 54 in top are pretty much as I'd want them. Before I'd bodged crafted the kickdown adapter for my carb-fed engine, I drove for a month or two. Up to the point that it locked up, if you used the selector it was fine. It was only when you hit 54 that there was a problem. If I've got this right, it is the flow of fluid from the governor that dictates this bit. Not a lot to be done about it really, except look into the TH350/400. Probably a cheaper pipe-dream than the Compushift, but still out of reach for the moment. Hey ho. There's a small chance that I might get my mitts on a ZF box with knackered splines, which I might give to my friendly local genius mechanic and tinkerer. If he can make a tiny jet engine out of an old turbo in a few hours, maybe he can wrestle the 'box into shape. Much food for though for my tiny mind to contemplate, while my hands get my truck working again.

I looked at a few hoses on lrseries.com, and a few of them seem to be for both yours and the 110. Maybe they'd be worth a ring tomorrow. Even if they don't have the bits, I reckon they'd know what's what. Hope that helps.

Sorted then. The PM790 is definitely a direct vinyl replacement for a 110 full hood, don't know who's numbering system though. The other is listed on dunsfolds special offers page as a full sand vinyl hood. Strange. Thanks Jake

Are these 2 part numbers for the same item? DSB000220ABE PM790 They both purport to be sand-coloured vinyl 110 hoods, so why the different number? Jake

I'm trying to get the thrice-cursed parts-catalogue-onna-cd to work, which has the answer. Bear with me. Doesn't exist... Eh? Looked in the parts catalogue, the cd, all over. Weird. Right. It's an optional extra. Thus in the optional extras catalogue. Cunning, that. Hose - Water outlet - Heater valve ERC3485 Hose - Heater valve return pipe ERC3486 Hope that helps. I think that they're fairly similar to the first 110 v8's. Try lrseries.com or somewhere like that. Good luck!

But you need a 'leccy autobox in the first place, don't you? One day, when I'm rich and famous... The effect that I'd like to achieve is as if there were no kickdown, so the box changes up at the earliest opportunity, unless held down with the selector. However, without the kickdown, the thing would lock the converter in top asap, irrespective of throttle, which would be a bit pants. Effectively, i'd like the choice of 1, 2, 3, 4, and Lock. I know that compushift solves this, and a whole lot more besides, I just wish that there was a bodge until I've sold enough of my soul to afford it

Having had mine for a few years, I have to agree. I used the selector (You can't really class it as a proper gearstick, can you) as much as possible, but it's not half as much fun as the manual in the CSW. However, towing heavy vans out of muddy fields, and carting heavy stuff about over marshy bits, it's invaluable. As paul said, makes things like that easy. I just wish that there was a similar device to what Will mentioned, that let me dictate it's actions.

balls. You got my hopes up there. Take the kickdown cable off then, and file the teeth off the gearstick locators. What you're saying, essentially, is that if I want one, I'll need more horsepower...

Thanks guys I need a whole one, as the front right wheel became overly intimate with a significant proportion of a polo... A new axle is in the offing, however I do it, so thought I'd get a nice newish one. Am I right in thinking that the vented 110 axles had the 24 spline gubbins? Also, I'm re-building the truck in general, and probably going to do a disc conversion on the salisbury, a là this post, so getting a whole one would cut out a lot of faffing. I've got and adjustable Panhard rod, and can get the radius rods with the axle. My main concern was that if too many of the bushes are different, then the Superpro kit I have for the rebuild might be less of a bargain than I thought... If it's just the radius bushes, I can get them reasonably, and flog the ones from the kit. Panic over. Thanks all

Hi all. Quick question. I'm replacing the front axle on my 110, with a vented-disk one. I think that I'm right in saying that radius rods have to change too, as the bushes are 54mm instead of 48mm. Is this the only change? What about the bushes for the panhard rod, and the chassis-end of the radius rod? Also, are the brake pipes the same? Thanks Jake

Tell me of this wondrous device! Where does it come from, how hard is it to fit, and how much of my soul will I have to trade for it? The manual valve-pack that is, I'm not sure that I'd need the deep gearing. This sounds like the thing that's haunted my dreams since the auto snuck into my truck.

Richards chassis ordered, everything bar the springs and shocks ordered from Gwyn Lewis (later, when flush...), many goodies in post, bank account emptying fast. Truck going to mate's workshop in Somerset at the end of next week (I've been lent a back-room, with ramp and air supply, in return for wielding a spanner. Best deal ever!). Digging for parts in the heap that supposedly contains our garage begins tomorrow. Looking at workshop manual and going "Eh?" well under way. I'm starting a thread to detail my screw-ups as they happen, for the merriment of all. Now all I have to do is squash the feeling of "Oh god, what have I started". Thanks for the advice, and inspiration (or should that be incitement?). No doubt there will be questions. Some of them might be sensible.

That's the best kind of answer... "Well, if several hundred pounds-worth or electronics won't do it, you could always try a paper-clip " Remove blue Blue ABS relay, insert paper clip between black and black/pink on connector. Ignition on. read codes Look up codes here... Fault Codes This site has both codes for ECU faults, and the immortal words "Nothing shown on display - Either nothing is wrong or the display is broken." As soon as he gets back, I'm going to set about his electrics with miscellaneous stationary Thanks guys.

Yeah, dad taught me that when I was first able to reach the peddles. There's a few driving things from when I was little that are burned into my brain. Shame for my chum's thumbs (Sorry ) that he didn't have a dis-used airfield to hand when a kid.

Thanks Tinker, I'll have a look. From memory, the ABS light came on first, as while dad was up country a while ago, a garage clouted the ABS sensor while fixing a ball-joint. The sensor has since been replaced, but the light won't go out until you've plugged the thing in to the thingamajig (To quote the service manual). I'm not sure what the TC light is about, or when it appeared, but I think it was more recent than the ABS. I'll have a shoofty at the wheel bearings as a precaution though. Thanks

Hi. My dad's LSE soft-dash needs the ABS re-setting and the traction control looked at, but our local Landy mechanics (Faultless in everything else but this, I hasten to add) can't get the thing to talk to any of their diagnostic gear. The old diagnostic stuff says it's too new, and the newer gear says it's too old... Any ideas? Many thanks Jake

Having watched a mate break his thumb while blatting round a forestry track (Truck hits root, root moves tyre, damper looses all it's fluid, tyre turns steering wheel, steering wheel makes a technical adjustment to the angle of his thumb), you can get more than a stain on yer drive if it fails. That said, his may well have been Britpart... and the damper on my truck is had been on it for a good while when I got it 10 years ago, is still on it now, and is an original armstrong. Jake.

Think'll stick it on my old springs to shift it round the workshop, and then worry about the new one's when it's nearer finished. As an aside, I'm putting an lpg doughnut in behind my southdown tank guard/tow point, so does it sound a better plan to make my own petrol tank to fit up under the rear tub side, or should I stick a 90 one in under the seat? The facet and filter are going up under the tub anyway, so I think that I'll knock up a square kinda jobbie, with a nice thick floor (3 bits of 3mm steel? should ward off flying stuff) and back end. A few baffles should be easy to put in too. I've read the threads on tank guards Vs re-made tank bottom, and this definitely sounds like a better plan. If all goes to plan this summer, I'll be rebuilding the 4.2 (Trying, and probably failing to emulate Bull Bar Cowboy's engine rebuild), and with a little luck, getting megasquirted. But that's another thing entirely. And also assumes that I don't get distracted by any of the engines lying around in my mate's workshop. TVR V8? Jag V12? No no no stoppit stoppit stoppit. One thing at a time! First a vehicle for the engine to go into...

Brilliant, 4.2 in shed, in preparation to be stripped, gearbox in negotiation. This wheel-weighing business... A). How? B). Is it worth me waiting until the new chassis is on, and the auto has magically become an r380, or can I just weigh my old truck? There's going to be very little difference other than the 'box and the galvanising. I know that doing it afterwards would be preferable, but I'm limited on time, and doing most of this on my tod, so I'd like to build the thing up on it's eventual springs and shocks in the first place. FF, I was resigned to getting another old one, and spending the next ten years failing to keep up with the rust, etc. Now I just have a dodgy-looking receipt for my soul, and a fast-disappearing bank balance. I haven't been happier in ages... However, this does seem to have raised a question or two in my mind, hence the pestering of all and sundry. Thanks, Jake

Thanks guys, I've just sent Richards a long and rambling E-mail. LR90, I was more looking for advice on spring makers than spring weights. I'm trying to work out a budget for the various bits I need. I've heard varying opinions of progressive springs in general, and different makes in particular, so wondered if anyone's had any experiences/thoughts. Having read (and been baffled/terrified by) the thread on spring rates and "Loadings" started by HFH, I'll definitely be asking for advice on the actual spring weights when it's finished! How do you weigh the corners? Parking with one wheel on my mum's bathroom scales only gave me mild concussion... The "Loading" issue is interesting (even if it isn't a real word), as I use the truck for many different things. One day I'm carting around a prodigious quantity of cider or engines etc, the next I'm driving around with nothing in the back what so ever. Balancing these two aspects is going to be tricky, I know. The springs on it were from it's former life, which involved an a-frame crane thingy for towing logs in a forestry... erm... forest, and seemingly a lot of gravel at some stage (I still find it in corners, even after 10 years!), and were fine, if a little harsh. They meant that it used to corner better than most, but had a tendency to loosen your fillings a bit. Thanks again

Hi. Following Fridge Freezer's incitement, I've been looking at ways to replace the chassis on my 110 v8. This has led me to wonder many things, mostly concerning my sanity... However, some of these things involve my truck. So here they are, in no particular order. [torrent of gibbering from fevered brain] I've noticed a lot of support for Richards Chassis. I've run into them before, and have been muchly impressed. However, due to time and budget considerations, I wondered if a rolling chassis from Designa was worth looking at. I need a new front axle anyway, and would need to re-bush everything, and wouldn't mind new springs and shocks. I'd be doing the swap in a mate's workshop, with plentiful ramps and tools, and I know my way around a spanner and indeed a landy, but I'm pushing it financially to afford all the bits I'd want, and will be doing most of the work on my tod, in a limited space of time. The Designa-chassis seemed a reasonable compromise for both cost, time-saving, and shiny bits. Also, does anyone know if there's any difference in the clutch/bellhousing between a 3.5 and a 4.2? I'd be putting my spare 3.5 in to start with, then building up the 4.2 over time. Can I just swap from one to the other? Lastly (hopefully) Can anyone recommend a good spring? Heavy duty, maybe a 1" lift (255/85 16's already fit nicely with my old H/D's) and progressives(?) for a little more comfort. I don't do a vast amount of the lumpy kind of off-roading, but I do spend a lot of time in deeply marshy places, towing gurt heavy hippy vans out of festivals, and towing things on the road, and carrying many barrels of cider in the back, etc, so cross-axling isn't my biggest worry. I also enjoy a hasty road journey now and then. It's a working truck rather than a competitive one. [/torrent of gibbering from fevered brain] Wow. I've always talked too much, but now it seems I write too much as well. The sooner I get the thing running, the sooner the v8 will drown out my ramblings... Thanks to anyone who can be arsed to read all that! @fridge freezer... I'm beginning to wish you'd never mentioned this, as aside from initiating the rantings above, it led me to look at the HOFS things, which led me to find mouse, which left me a gibbering idiot, and gave me pipe dreams that will haunt me to my grave. You lot are the best kind of nuts, and that mousey thing... (looses power of rational thought, and has to have a quiet lie down)