carlosbeldia
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Posts posted by carlosbeldia
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Can anybody enlight me about this part? it was found in a genuine LR pallet, so it's supposed to be for a Land Rover. It has no p/n in the body. Measures around 20 inches long.
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in my td5 one of the wires that goes to the gauge was crystallized and got broken
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how much for the rakeaway? did you bought option 1 or 2?
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I have a 10P with 130.000 miles on the clock going stronger everyday. Had overheating issues but due to radiator and hoses (around 10 times was overheated big time, but never it damaged head gasket). I have drive 15P and they are better, not a lot, but you can feel they are smoother in respose, fell more "alive" in the low rpm scope. Also, they have some improvements ike steel dowels.
Whatever you buy, be sure to check if oil pump bolt was already tightened, a 2 pounds piece can cost you all your engine.....
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Nuts are turning with the bolts, have to make a hole to extract them
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what can I do to avoid future seize or damage to this nut? right now I'm not able to take out the hinge due to corrosion
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Thanks a lot, I'm getting all the information I can for making a fast and efficient work. What most worry me are the bolts in the interior of the bulkhead that supports the doors. Did you drill and place additional nuts?
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do you think it's an option to just galvanize my actual chassis after fixing some sections? in my country is really hard to import a chassis due to legal restrictions. does it worth to galvanize an old chassis like mine that already has some dents due to rust?
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how much does it costs to galvanize a bulkhead in England? I'm about to galvanize mine here in Colombia and don't have a clue
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Yeah, I'm gonna change my bulkead in december, it's gona be water proof , jajajajajaja
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the relay that was stucked was the one in the fuse box in front of the gearbox. there was water in there. I tried another relay and everything seems ok. as soon as I connect the old one, fuel pump sounds
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Tonight I went to check some tools in the Defender and found the battery was completly discharged. Checking things, finnaly found the fuel pump relay was hot and fuel filter, fuel pipes and battery were warm. Car was parked during 6 hours with the fuel pump running all the time. I suppose this is a faulty relay, but it's not supposed when I take the key off everything electric goes down?
I've been off roading kind of hard during last 3 days, one with a meter- deep wading, in case this can be a problem.
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How does turbo gaskets go? I mean, they have one depressed side and one projected side (like little vein), what goes to the turbo and what to the other components (oil return, manifold, etc)
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My car came with a factory LR tracking unit (UN version), it was wired to license plate light wire. Was in the left (saw from behind) top corner, attached to the roof by a black glue-tar-something.....
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I have a 88" Series and a 110" TD5. The TD5 is completly rusted (I accept I never protected it, but is too much compared with my Series). Talking about the differences between these, a Toyota friend of mine told me he has exactly the same difference between his FJ40 and his newer (2003) FZJ70. We went to the conclusion that maybe the problem is all this new ECU connections (cathodic corrosion?), just an idea..... If it worths, his 4.5 Toyota Chassis is worst than my Defender, and he used to wash it every week, so when compared with their equals (being equals only Toyota 70, Nissan Y60 and Uaz whatever...) I suppose we are not so bad in terms of corrosion...
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The damper also comes and goes with the clutch position...
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In addition, the noise was just a few seconds in the morning, not during hot work.
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When I had this noise was not from the spigot, the spigot was more a low tone sound, the screech came from the engine damper...
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A friend of mine is trying to replace his broken compressor for a new one, and looking for it he found this one, supposed to be the last in the superseeded line. HOwever, it mentions that this compressor needs some modifications and software upgrade. Is easy to upgrade the software with generic scanner? how invasive are the needed modifications? would it be better to just install the old one?
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/LR045251G.cfmhttp://www.roverparts.com/Parts/LR045251G.cfm
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I had to go with new CKP wires, but after finishing the job I saw there is a cable that acts as screen and goes to the ECU..... how can I do this with my new setup? aluminium foil? how can I connect this to the ECU?
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I ask my LR parts dealer for Defender 110 front and rear shock absorbers. I have just received them and they are for Discovery I. Do you think is a big difference? they are long enough to be installed, what can I expect in using? For me is really hard to find parts for my car here in Colombia, so I'm thinking in installing these.
Must be these dampers precharged or only have to put them up?
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My car was overheated (due to the top hose) at least 8 times with no problems for the head, this is a tough engine. Mine is a 2001. You made the correct bleeding procedure except for one thing..... it must be done with the car completly cold.... then retop with the car in temp...... do it and you'll see it's OK. In my case happened exactly the same, temp went constantly to 100-110 after a while until I made the bleeding in cold...
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TD5 have two pieces half shaft / drive set....
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I used Monroe Adventur with OME springs (HD) for work (heavily laden, bad roads, high speeds).... they didn't stood for 10.000 km. The internal shaft got bended and they went stuck in high position.... I was very disapointed at that time, before that I had the originals with no problem at all. I have seen 3 Defender (2 130 and 1 110) from overlanders that are using them with good results in their travel for South America
What is this?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
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Vaccum accumulator is kind of different. There are original flux capacitors in LR?