carlosbeldia
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Posts posted by carlosbeldia
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There are three reasons for this problem , I have to battle until find them. I had exactly the same problem you have. I live in a 35-40 celsius zone in a good day, so we don't have cold starts in here, and the problem could be localized when the car started to be hard to start after working days and parked. Problem here was the smallest up hill inclination made it a hell to fire. After a lot of changes (seals of injectors, pump and a lot of cables and fuses), we found the problem was the little bleeding valve in the filter case..... a GBP 12 gizmo.... since there, my car starts really smoothly and quickly at morning....and noon, and midnight,,,,, wahtever...
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Thanks, tomorrow i´ll give it a try
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I have kind of a rattling coming from my hand brake. In a stand still making the rear cardan rotates, there is a really annoying noise coming from it. How can I adjust it? to eliminate it I must turn it to the left or to the right?
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Besides, a HDJ100 is supposed to have 61cm in rear travel, but it doesn't elongate more than my car...
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I don't think so, rear springs are longer and wider in 110 (at least the HD versions in 90's and 110's I have here). Also, shock absorbers that came with my car are like 2 inch longer than the ones presents in both UK and NAS version of 90's...
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Does anyone have this data? I've found that 90's stock is 56cm front / 58cm rear....
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I did a lot of research on them for a friend who wanted to bought it, and we get a conclusion: it's purely carp. They have all the problems in the world, don't go there. Right now they are not Santana Anibal, from 2008 or something like that they are Iveco Massif, just to improve quality, but it seems they were having a lot of troubles too. As off roaders, they are supposed to be really good, but lot of problems from cardan, engine and electrics gremlins. Off course Anibal's owners says they are the best of the best. There is a discussion forum where one of they says his Anibal went and come from Morroco after failure in engine, getting no 4x4, gearbox trouble and clutch in field repair. He was really proud of this....
A forum for only Anibal and Massif:
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But I go off road everyday and the streets of my city seems like there is a war zone, so I think it's better to have it...
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I bought my Britpart like 8 months ago and is already broken, completely ate by salt water from the sea.... the original lasted 10 years working ok until I broke the shaft with a tree, that's why I have the doubt...
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I have just paid some parts for my Defender in Paddock, but just a minute after it, I remembered that I also need the steering damper, so tried to find a good brand in good money (under 20 squids), but under this limit is only the normal Britpart (really crappy item) or the Super Gaz Britpart version. Do you think it worth the money (11 vs 20) to go for the gas version? or they are as bad as the normal Britpart? please help me asap, I have to decide in order they can join this with the main dispatch
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Here are two reports well gone 5000 meters: 5500 and 5850 in 300's with no problems, only the obvius diminish in horsepower and torque...
http://landroverclub.com.ar/viewtopic.php?t=103612&highlight=altitud
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Argentinians are used to drive on the Puna, really near 5000 most of them in 300's with no problems. Toyotas have problem at that altitude, Land Rovers don't. My TD5 have been over 4500 m with no issues at all.
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Mi TD5 came with a 210 amp Denso alternator. Previous owner (an austrian organization) told me it came originally with the UN pack, it fits really well, goes as perfect as the original. it's wonderfull how this can cope my batt (I have a 1350A) or starts any equipment in the field (I work with a machinery contractor). I'll try to see the reference. Can't the 120 amp alternator from P38 fullfill your power needs?
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My car (TD5) came with a Denso unit good for 115 (idle) to 210 (max amp). I don't know why this car have this alternator, is the only one I have seen in a Land Rover. It looks very similar to my neighbor's Cummins powered Ram HD one. I don't have a part number, but the alternator is a bolt on piece, nothing adapted
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Mine was gone long time ago, so I take next size key in inch system and make it fit with a hammer, then just take it out...
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I used to have LR Genuine HD rear springs, now I have OME HD rear springs..... I really want to go back to my LR, these OME are not a good thing handling weight. Yesterday I put around 900 kg in stones in my car and the rear axle was really down. With my Genuine springs there were no fade or too much diminish in height with 1200 kg of lemon.
In the road, OME are marginally better, but nothing outrageous. I friend of mine have this OME version in his 90 NAS and is really good to ride in broken terrain, but not very good handling additional weight.
I thinks it's better for you to go Genuine in springs, don't know in shocks (OME goes tired fast). Most of 110 overlander coming to Colombia come using Monroe Adventure 4x4 (I don´t know why I think it's for the price) in combination with Genuine springs in HD versions. Most 130's I've seen comes completly original.
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Already found it....
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We are trying to find a scheme for this modulator. It's a 98 P38 with 4.6 engine. We haven't found the valve scheme for this, trying to repair it.
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Thanks a lot Western...
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I'm trying to buy brake pads for my 110 TD5 from 2001 (MY99). I have 2 doubts maybe somebody can help me.
As for Microcat, my rear brake pads are SFP000280. However, Paddock only have this reference in Genuine form, so really too expensive for me. The alternative, following other vendor's site is STC1601. Is that correct?
In addition, the brake pad retaining kit appears as especific for STC1601, but in other pages I have found STC8575 as the corrects.
Can somebody confirm me if that's correct?
My car have front vented disc and ABS.
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Peter, did you use the same LT230/R380 combo? besides the engine what else did you change? what engine did your Defe had originally?
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It's for a german friends majking some overlander action in USA.
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The doors are a really odd problem in armored Defenders. This photo is from a Level 4 (good for 7.62 blasts) Defender (used to be the farm car from a drug lord near my city). You can see how bad aligned are the doors. It's reinforced by the footwells, have torsion bars from bulkhead to the chasis and front wings, the company and the owner made all they could to have they in position with no results. All these tricks works in Defenders until Level 3 Plus (a lot of Colombian Defenders are armored vehicles due to our internal war and drug war), but when going for Level 4, they are not good cars. This have an special reinforcement for Minas Quiebrapatas (breaking-legs mines), powerful homemade devices used by Guerilla, and is like an integral footwell, with no results for car torsional strenght.
Td5 Warm start concern.....
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Yes, the valve number 7..... was exactly like yours, an intermitent problem, some days it was perfect, other days consumed almost all the batt crancking...