Davewillb
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Posts posted by Davewillb
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Thanks for the comments - ill have a look for the engine number today.
Dave
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Likley that its not a crack but where the head gasket has gone its allowed the chamber to gas out and "Cut" a channel through the liner top and then through the soft ally
The steam cleaning is a by effect of this.
You MIGHT get away with cleaning it up and filling the flush dead flat with say JB weld etc, then composite gaskets and a prayer or 5, the actual proper route to fix
is a deck skim, which is not cheap, and may be the amount that has to come off is greater than you can safely remove
RIP 3.5 methinks ...........
N
Yes the consensus seems to be RIP which is a shame (to say the least) - I'd be grateful for any thoughts on the picture of the cam in my 'spare' engine if its got a bit more life in it I'm tempted to fit that engine and give it a try but also worried about the amount of work involved to get that in the Disco only to find its also poorly (it was supposed to have only done 85K?) - I suppose the sensible thing to do would be to do the top-end of the spare engine with a new cam and lifters + probably a timing chain and have a look at the bottom end while I'm at it - trouble is thats well outside my comfort zone, which was somewhere around new head gaskets - I guess its the only way to learn but potentially expensive!!
Dave
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Ok, I've un-buried my 'spare' engine bought locally on an impulse (Ebay) cause it was cheap and local and I thought I might need a spare 'one day' (not in 4 months) still a wise investment ..... maybe not, I just took the intake plenum, valley gasket etc of for a peek at the cam and saw this -------:
I think this one needs a new cam and followers - am I right?? (genuine question, I've only seen pictures of this stuff up until now).
Dave
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Hi Dave,
I take it you are talking about the crack from the waterway into the cylinder, personaly I would say yes unless some one know different.
It has cleaned the piston though!
Marc.
Hi Marc,
Ok thanks - I haven't much experience at all of V8 head problems but I thought it looked terminal. I wasn't sure if it was a surface issue caused by errosion due to a long term leak but a crack makes a lot more sense I guess - I thought 3.5's didn't commonly do this
Dave
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Hi,
I'm partway through replacing the headgaskets on my 3.5V8 Disco and just found the problem in this picture - I'm thinking its terminal fro the engine as but would be very glad of some expert comment while I look for some happy pills!
Cheers,
Dave
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Had seen that one, didn't realize it was you. Very tidy build you did there. I think people have used a v8 mating plate for a v8 to series box in this application. I seem to remember that you have to cut the crankshaft flange using a grinder to create clearance for the clutch mechanism but otherwise it is pretty straightforward.
Daan
Thanks for this - useful to know the various options.
I am on the Moon. Dark side.
North Kent, 25 minutes from Dartford crossing
OK, that's a bit of a long haul for me I'm afraid which is a shame - I'm not convinced my old Disco would make it there and back again at the moment.
Dave
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You need a V8 Disco/RR classic LT77 box, but you would have to change the remote to a Defender type, which entails stripping the selctor shaft out of the TD box. Dont bother with adaptors IMO
I have got a gearbox less bellhousing and transfer box here you can have if you want to collect it.
That's a generous offer - thanks, where abouts are you, I'm in central Norfolk.
Dave
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I'll do my best guys - I tried with my 90 rebuild but keeping the thread updated sort of got away from me after I got started so there is stuff from the start and then a big gap and some pictures from the end with just a few specific bits in the middle.
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Can someone move this to the "Special projects" section before all the IVA/SVA bullsh*t smothers another build thread? Let's just leave legality as a paperwork exercise for the owner.
I wasn't sure which section to ask the original question in - its not model specific and as per the topic title isn't supposed to be IVA etc. I'm very happy for it to be moved.
Dave
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If you've got a REALLY tight budget, I'd have thought an IVA would be the last thing you want to consider, at potentially £450...
....it is the last thing, I'm thinking of the relatively recent article John Carroll did for .. I think it was LRO... using a Disco chassis, I'm also looking at the regs for camper conversions with interest.
It depends on what chassis and mounting brackets you are going to use.
If you are using a TD gearbox, it will have a short input shaft which will require an adaptor plate to mate the gearbox to the engine. The spigot bearing will also have to be specially made................
I have a more suitable gearbox from a V8 Disco/RR, but you would need the v8 bellhousing and would have to change the remote assy.
But it all depends on what you are doing................need more detail
The chassis would be from a V8 (auto) Disco circa 1994, so I'd be better of with a Disco manual gearbox and V8 bellhousing then as I don't like the sound of specially made spigot bearings? - could I use the remote assembly from the 90TD LT77 gearbox to get the gearsticks somewhere sensible? or is this where its starts getting expensive because I really need a bellhousing from a 101?
Cheers,
Dave
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Well I did say or similar ..... but more honestly I'm blaming a senior moment ...SVA
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Hi,
I've accumulated a lot of the bits and pieces on the cheap to build what I'm calling a Disco / 90 camper and its on the tightest budget so I need to use what I've got laying about, it probably won't be very pretty and will definately upset purists as it will have a combo of series, Disco and 90 bits. As per the title I've got a good v8 from a manual Rangie and a good gearbox from a 90 TD - what do I need in the way of a bell housing to join these two with a gear stick in a conventional position?
Before anyone says SVS or similar I am factoring that.
Thanks,
Dave
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I'm not that good with eeproms I'm afraid, wish I was - I read that thread on the forum a couple of days ago and admired what went in to it but I'm just a dabbler in electronics and don't have access to that kit.
I do think that fiddling with the signal going into the speedo is an option though and I've got a spare speedo to play with at the mo.
If I get anywhere with it I'll let people know but it could be an autumn project.
Dave
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its poor isn't it - I guess they may have muddled up the spec and made them for a Disco with the higher pulse count. I bought mine from LRDirect and I've sent them a link to all the forum comment. Mine was a shoddy build quality as well with the metal section loose on the plastic molding.
Just so this is linked to this forum, I did try the AMR 1253 from the original Disco gearbox, this need different wiring, two wires, one is an earth and the other is the signal out t0 the Defender TD5 speedo, this combination also reads double. I started playing with a CMOS divider chip (4027 I think) and this worked briefly but then stopped, I think the signal from the AMR 1253 is too messy probably, but then I managed to blow it and didn't have another to hand so abandoned it in disgust - I'll try it again though when I've got a bit more time as it would be quite neat.... it might even be a way of correcting for tyre size variation etc with a more sophisticated divider chip??
Dave
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Had the same problem, bought mine from LRdirect, they sent a black unit in a Britpart box which overread. They exchanged this for a Almakes which was green with VDO marked on the side, this worked as it should.
I just had the same problem with the Britpart version of the YBE100530 - the Allmakes (mine was marked VDO as well) worked fine when it turned up as a replacement - I just want a credit on the Britpart version now.
Dave
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Update - well I traced the wiring to the solenoid on the tank and guess what, two twisted joins taped over with what looked a lot like sellotape and the twisted wires were unsuprisingly tarnished. While dealing with this I noticed that the solenoid makes a loud click when power goes on, but is silent when it goes off; thinking about it I have heard this click a few times without realising what it was, so it looks like the gas supply was going off occasionally ....... possibly helped by the twisting forces when going around a roundabout!
I've also checked the HT lead runs (Tanuki) and tidied that up a lot, and added some cable ties using the two ties trick to keep them spaced .... one cable around the HT leads and another over that one between the leads so that tie keeps the leads seperated. Things seem better and the engine is definately smoother ..... still having got the idle speed consistent though so next on the list is looking for air leaks I guess. This is the no lambda sensor, no Cat simple 1992 14CUX system so hopefully it won't be too difficult to sort this last (for now) problem.
While I'm on a winning run I've also sorted out the central locking so all the doors now lock instead of half opening while the other half lock and the back door not doing anything as the actuator was missing and the classic little spring also broken - what a pig of a job replacing one of those is!!!
Anyone got a set of lock barrels with a key or a speaker amp for the rear door - my locks don't match the ignoition key and the speaker is missing completely.
Dave
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Like the thought on savings to pay for the MJ ECU, neat thinking.
I may be close to sorting my problem though, today my wife could hear a ticking noise while we were driving and I'm fairly confident it's coming from a solenoid on the LPG tank at the back, if the lpg supply is going on and off intermittently that would explain a lot.......still think the ignition amp was playing up as well, but I'm getting to the point where I've changed too many things to be sure anymore, timing, ign amp, layout of ht leads.
Dave
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Thanks for that suggestion Tanuki, I have pulled things about a lot getting the distributor out, fitting the ign amp and getting it back in again and timed so thats definantly a possible - it would be fairly typical wouldn't it, fix one problem and cause at least one new one in doing so, worst scenario with similar symptoms to the original problem.
Dave
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Well it said Lucas on the boxes and it wasn't cheap, but having said that from what I've read recently that's no guarantee so maybe I'm assuming too much. Guess the distributor cap / rotor arm are possible contenders again.
Are you running megasquirt / jolt then?
I've started collecting bits for megajolt and just about have everything except the ecu now ( the expensive bit!!) but I don't really want to be forced into doing it now with a lot of other stuff on the go ATM. ...... and a holiday planned with any luck that needs the Disco mobile.
Dave
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Update - ignition module fitted and it hasn't broken down since but its still not running quite right, it misses a bit on over run and hunts as well, dosn't start quite as easily and generally doesnt seem quite right. Its the same on gas and petrol.
I've recently replaced the distributor cap, rotor arm, leads and plugs (all decent stuff) this was before the recent breakdown but only 5 or 600 miles, now I've done the ign amp and I'm wondering about the coil but in the past coils have either worked or not for me ..... do they go intermittent or low output??
I've got software and a lead to look at the output from the 14CUX and all looks ok there, no faults recorded airbypass working and airflow meter providing changing voltage....
The idle is a bit intermittent still despite a new bypass valve,it improved when I replaced it but still tends to hold high revs for a few secs before dropping to slightly too low and then corrects itself eventually. Timing is about right and advance is working.
Air leak maybe???
Any suggestions appreciated.
Dave
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When I went to start it on Sunday morning, when it was still cool, it was very reluctant which isn't normal at all but it had driven faultlessly for 10 miles after breaking down on a main A road on Friday evening. It will be very interesting to see if the new module fixes it.
Out of interest, is it possible to fit the module by loosening the distributor and turning it rather than removing it completely? 30 degrees clockwise would make both philips screws accessible from the front.
Dave
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Thanks Bowie69 - think I'll order one, worst scenario it will be eliminated.
Cheers,
Dave
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Hi,
It costs me about £25 of gas to do 150 miles so by a very rough comparison 300 miles at a cost of £50 feels roughly equivalent to what it would cost me to run a Tdi.
Not cheap motoring either way but I don't much like diesels and I really do like my V8 (except when it breaks down) so I'm happy.
Dave
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Hi,
My Disco 3.5v8 has spluttered couple of times part way round roundabouts recently, tonight it did the same but then over the next 100yds on the straight the engine missed and died. I pulled over and it would start but was running on about 2 cyl on both gas and petrol, wouldn't rev. I did the usual bonnet up, checked ht leads, nothing obvious amiss, tried again, started on 2 cyl, pumped throttle violently got a few more revs the suddenly cleared and revved normally. I drove the rest of the way home (10 miles) with no problem at all.
Weird, please someone tell me this happened to you and it's.............?
Cheers,
Dave
Help! - 3.5V8 - is this terminal?
in International Forum
Posted
The original Engine number is 24d and its marked as 9.35 / 1 so I gather that is a 3.5 so I was unlucky to get the crack I suppose. The spare has the same prefix so that's all good hopefully.
I've been spending every spare minute getting the spare 3.5 sorted out, I wasn't going to even look at the bottom end, and just cross my fingers but I'm glad I had a peek as the shells are showing a lot of copper. So it's getting timing chain, new spring etc in oil pump, new cam and followers + pushrods followed by composite gaskets.... And now shells as well. Cylinders look ok to my inexperienced eye.
This is my first time this deep into an engine overhaul so getting really worried about what I've spent on bits versus the first start .... Or attempted start!
Done a lot of reading up on the forum and also the v8forum.com so fingers crossed - I'm not sure how much longer its going to take but I must be close to starting to put it back together soon I think.
Dave