Frogland

Why do my brakes scream when i haven't driven for a few days,do they need copper grease on the back of the pads or is it something else ?

Yeah it's funny but whilst your doing a job like that you can't help imagining the worst the thought that the car may end up stuck on the drive for months.

Started first time and sounds smoother although i did replace the water pump ,auxilary belt tensioner and belt and the idler pulley.I took her for a spin and all seems well maybe a little less black smoke under load. When i came back i noticed a water leak, a drip the goes between the steering pump pulley and the alternator and ends up creating a puddle on the steering box.It's probably coming from somewhere around the waterpump but i can't see the exact area.I did change the p gasket. can anyone tell me the easiest way to crank the engine when doing the tappets ? I think I remember hearing that it was possible to do it by lifting one of the front wheels in fifth gear and then turn the wheel does this sound right ?

ok changed the crank and cam seals,then i put the new belt kit on i had to redo the pump timing again by holding the centre bolt and undoing the 3 bolts then retightening once the pin could slide in.I've turned the crank an few hundred times whilst rechecking the timing marks everything seems ok put it all back together tomorrow and then turn the key and pray

Great,thanks for all the advice i'll be posting a bit tomorrow no doubt.

ok did that, it seems ok turned the crank a few times got back to tdc all the pins went in ok and the marks are lined up Hopefully i'll be able to finish everything off tomorrow.i'm a bit worried about doing the cam and crank oil seals without the special tools.

Nah it didn't work.Now what if i loosen the 3 bolts on th IP pulley then insert the pin then turn the the crank and insert the tool in the flywheel and then retighten the 3 bolts on the IP pulley.Then I undo the tensioner an proceed to replace the belt.

tried it this way round and couldn't get the flywheel locking tool in,I've been rehearsing this for months, why isn't it going like clockwork!!!

The flyweel timing pin is in. crankshaft woodruff is at 12 o'clock camshaft pulley timing mark is roughly in line with mark at the back of the timing case. I can't fit the IP pin in it needs about another mm to fit should i undo the 3 bolts and jiggle it in,and would this explain the black smoke i've been having when under load ?

I'm replacing the timing belt and when i opened the the casing i noticed oil contamination i'm pretty sure it's the crankshaft seal which i was going to replace anyway so i may as well do the camshaft shaft seal at the same time.Is it a common failure and can it be done without the special tools ?

Thanks western but les mentions crankshaft pulley removal,but not camshaft pulley removal.So just to be clear 1. I position the timing pins in the IP and wading plug hole for flywheel. 2.make sure crankshaft woodruff key is at 12 o'clock 3.check timing marks on cam pulley and rear casing. 4.remove belt. and then I can undo the bolt on the cam pulley and remove it ,right ? I need assurances before I can carry on (although it's a good excuse to watch the grand prix)

I'm about to replace the camshaft oil seal ,is there anything to be aware of when removing the pulley ? should it be done with the timing pins in place ? should the belt come off first ? Is it really as simple as the workshop manual indicates ?

My 110 still has it's 2-part plastic chassis undertray until now i've put up with it ,although it's a pain because it has to be dismantled all the time even for the most basic maintenance jobs.I would like to remove it altogether has anyone got any experience with these and will i get more road noise if i do ? The pics are of the part that sits under the gearboxes the part that sits under the engine cannot be removed without undoing the steering damper,arm.

How do I test to see if it's still working ?

Ok, new part ordered, shame everything was going smoothly. I'd left the viscious fan lying in the sun, when i picked it up I noticed a trace of oil on the piece of wood that was underneath,is this something to be concerned about ?

ok just to be clear on that,I need a whole timing case front cover ? (sorry just going to dry my tears)- part no. ?

so this means a new timing cover

OK first surprise,the camshaft pulley is only held on by 3 bolts,the 4th cannot stay on due to the fact the threaded slot is broken,up until now It hasn't posed or created any problems.Can I carry on with just 3 bolts ?

Thanks for the speedy replies guys,i've spent months getting all the tools and parts together to do this i even lay a nice flat slab of concrete just for working on the landy and it's hard to beleive i'm actually going to get on with it,i'm sure those waterpump bolts will give me greif i mean it can't all go like clockwork can it ???

I'm replacing the timing belt,water pump ,p-gasket,auxilary belt tensioner pulley on my 300 tdi tomorrow and wanted to be clear on a few things. 1.The viscious fan nut is undone clockwise ,is that when facing the vehicle ? 2.which bolts need to be threadlocked,I P pump bolts ,crankshaft bolt,waterpump bolts ? 3.would it be best to test the engine after the belt change before doing the tappets or do it all at once and then turn the engine ?

Thanks, how could i check that boost to IP pipe ?

There are oily traces around the turbo to intercooler elbow area and the bottom intercooler hose.The hoses are in good condition.They pressurize.There's no play in the turbo.I don't have a boost gauge,i'm concerned that oil may be finding it's way into the boost pipe .Is this oil coming from the crankcase breather ? ,the main air inlet doesen't appear particularly oily. -Bog standard 110 300tdi 1998

Did it make a difference ?

Thanks western I'd looked at that page and missed it !

Hi I'm looking for the part No. of the core plug that is behind the water pump-the one that becomes accessable when renewing the P gasket.The vehicle is a 300tdi 110. Any help would be appreciated