Lomenech

Assuming we can overcome our various more essential electrical issues, can anyone tell me exactly how difficult it would be to install a radio in my ex MOD '97 300 Tdi 110? It looks like the MOD had about 35 radios plugged in before judging by the spaghetti spilling into the passenger footwell. Vincent said he would do it when I bought the car but I can't see one anywhere. I thought it would be simple, but then I forgot about antenna, drilling through the roof (?) and all those other things, because I am a girl and I just want to listen to the radio on a long road trip in 2 weeks time! I would be very happy with any old radio, if there are second hand places I can go but it's the installation I hear conflicting things about. Thanks!

Thank you! Can I please double check that? (I hasten to add I am following this on the diagram, and NOT by taking the looms apart!): 1. Switch column (in the steering wheel?) S123 goes via C36-4, turns a corner onto C36-3 to 2. Switch Hazard (S121) then turns back onto C96-3 and C287-11 to 3. Header Joint & the 3 indicator circuits C287-12/13 & 14 then back onto 4. C287-11 then down to the instrument pack J100 Sorry, I have probably got that all wrong, I know it is not like a map, but that's the closest I can get by following the green and red on my diagram. C287-9 does not site on a green and red route, and I cannot work out where in all of that the circuit passes through the fusebox, and therefore where the short might be occurring. Now you will see why I am not doing the wiring myself! Thank you for your patience. Olivia

I know most garages don;t want to touch electrics which is why we took it to someone who is meant to be very good, but unfortunately this has happened somehow. There is no way we could do the wiring ourselves, well, not as things stand, but I AM trying to learn more through experience. In answer to your query, they re-taped the loom on top of the chassis. They have agreed to take the car back (so I won;t start taking the loom apart, and apart from that we need it in one piece for now), but I thought it is better if I at least know what to look for, as they have insisted from the outset that it can't be to do with the repair... What do you want pictures of? The mud casing on the bottom of the car? I will try and take some anyway when it comes back later. Thanks, Olivia

Further to last postings, am reporting continued problems with electrics, obviously not cured by the new trailer socket as I had hoped. However, after an 800 mile trip of 15 blown fuses and hand signalling the length of the A1 I have narrowed it down to the LH indicator! A brief re-cap for anyone still awake: post garage repair to the rear loom over a month ago we have, since the car came back experienced consistent blowing of the same fuse, Indicator/Hazards and Rear washer (3rd one along from top L for anyone with the same model/fuseboard as our 300tdi). This one also services the fuel & temp gauges too of course. I thought it might be something to do with the fact that after the rear loom repair the trailer electrics had been temporarily disconnected whilst we waited to put a new X member on. We had the car off the road for nearly a month but though we did get through the MOT, we soon discovered that the problem is still occurring. I have downloaded the diagrams Western kindly sent through and the LR one someone else sent with all the coloured circuits (Fig. 44.1 Defender 97 Model year). I REALLY have tried to make sense of them I promise, but I can;t seem to get a grasp of of what wires go where on the actual car and where in the circuit the fuse-board comes in. Can anyone help me understand this so I can diagnose where in the circuit the problem is most likely occurring? 1. The wire starts at the indicator lever 2. travels to/through the HAZARDS SWITCH (?) 3. OR through the HEADER JOINT first(?) 4. Then to the FUSEBOX passenger compartment What is the instrument pack? - this seems to contain the indicators circuit and the trailer lamp. What is the LAMP-SIDE REPEATER FRONT LH (A121)? Are the wires I need to look at the LAMP DIRECTION INDICATOR HAZARD WARNING FRONT & REAR LH (A117 & A118)? (bearing in mind, our fuse is only blowing when indicating on the LH side). The fuse doesn't blow every time you indicate, but on a long journey the fuse seems to blow much more quickly after the car has been running for a couple of hours, to the extent a replacement fuse will blow every time you indicate and I wondered if it affected by things heating up? If anyone can help me get a better idea about this I would be very grateful. Thanks, Olivia

Hello again, I posted a previous reply and said I would report back re. our fuse problem which sounds like it was similar to yours. Hopefully you have got it fixed by now but I am very pleased to say that since we had our new X member put on and NEW trailer socket fitted, we haven't had any further problem with shorting/fuses blowing. One other thing that might be of help - someone else mentioned this too I think - check for loose fitting lamp covers, as ours had water in them after the car came back from the garage who I think had checked the rear lights and not screwed covers back on properly. And if Western is reading this, then thank you for all your help, we have our car back after a month of being on foot, and everything seems to be working. I might even get a photo done! Bye.

As Western knows, we have been experiencing similarly annoying problems on our 110, with the indicator/rear washer fuse blowing continuously (when indicators activated) since we had a repair to the rear loom done as an apparent remedy for severe malfunctioning of lights, indicators, dashboard etc. It was only when the car came back from the garage that the problems with the fuses began. Maybe you have a problem with the rear loom/towbar electrics? We thought we had cured the fuse problem by fiddling around with the fuseboard, but it came back again. However the trailer socket electrics had been disconnected and coiled up behind the X member, following loom repair, as we were due for a new X member. Now the latter has been done and trailer socket renewed and reconnected I will see if we still have the fuse problem (only got the car back tonight) and report back...if that's of any help at all?!...

just to let you know I have just ordered new calipers for my LR, same model and year, and with new pads as well the bill comes to 350, (same amount for new ones as trading in old ones for reconditioned), so if you don;t need to change the calipers then all the better! Olivia

I know, so would I! but even if I could work out how to paste photos (bearing in mind my website is about 5 years behind for the same reason) I would be too ashamed to show it. It's not parked in the Sahara, or partaking in any off road championships, and I haven't even fitted a roof-rack let alone extra lights or a snorkel....So much for girls on the forum! But I will try and do a photo-shoot soon...

hello, sorry I am making a habit of hijacking, but i was talking about etching primer this evening as we have patches of white corrosion on our hinges coming through the paintwork too, both on door hinges and the vents on the bulkhead, the latter particularly bad. Am I right in thinking most of the framework is steel, but that the hinges and door panels are aluminium? Would it help to put rubber/foam gaskets underneath the hinges, to prevent contact with steel body parts, as well as etching and re-painting? Or would wax oyle be as good? Thank you and sorry to interrupt! Olivia

Thank you for those Western! All lights working at present, expensive MOT coming up, but hopefully we will get everything worked out eventually. Compared to everyone else's cars in the photos ours is positively neglected, but I hope we will get it looking better soon! Olivia

probably not much use but seeing as I am NOT making my own X member I phoned around for prices. The Bearmach one with extensions is in fact £160+VAT, the one I was originally quoted for was a 'Hadrian' and priced at 230+VAT. I have now chosen one which is meant to be a genuine part - whatever that is, as someone said LR don;t make them anymore!? Olivia

Sorry I am hijacking again but I would love to know the supplier you are getting your Bearmach one from, and how the Bearmach compares with other market parts as I have been quoted 230 for a new X member (can't remember the make!)from the local (& cheapest) supplier! Thanks, Olivia

Hello, I would like to think I have some useful advice to offer as I am about to replace my X member on a 110. However I think I am hijacking the topic! I have ordered one with extensions, as I understand that you have to cut away some of the rear chassis ends when replacing the X member. However mine is costing £230 + 1-2 days fitting in the garage, and it's not a LR part either! Someone did say that you need to remove the fuel tank when doing the work, but I am not sure about this either. I hope you gets yours sorted out...Olivia

Thanks, that's what I had understood, but my grasp of electrics, mechanics and everything is so basic I thought I had got confused again...the diagram is great - can I ask where it is from as I would love to get a copy (I work better with pictures!). At the moment our trailer socket is disconnected as we knew we have to replace the X member so wiring is all tied up behind at the moment. I am just about to buy a new rear X member, brakes calipers & pads, drop arm ball joint and new belt for the alternator to get the rest of the repairs done before MOT in 2 weeks. I hope one day I'll have learnt enough to be able to do more DIY. Thanks for the help, Olivia