monkie
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Posts posted by monkie
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1 hour ago, Arjan said:
Are 2.5 N/A injectors and 200 Tdi injectors swoppable ?
No, they are not. The pre-Tdi engines are indirect injection so have the stubby, smally injectors made by CAV. The Tdi engines are direct injection so have the longer, thinner injectors made by Bosch.
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Shine a light into the hole in the head to check there is no dirt, soot or old copper washer in there that might prevent a good seating of the injector. Make sure the injector is clean and has a new copper washer fitted. Refit the injector making sure the washer is in place correctly, fit the clamp, making sure the threads on the stud are clean and then tighten carefully to the correct torque.
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8 hours ago, Gazzar said:
No doubt someone will hack one so it can be retrofitted to a TDI 200.
That thought did cross my mind!
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I thought this article was interesting, so I'll share it here for you all to read if you want to.
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I wonder how heavy it is compared to the standard bulkhead?
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An update incase this is helpful to someone in the future. 2 faults have been found by a specialist in York. 1 corrected, the other is terminal.
First fault which was stopping the car from starting was traced to the removal of a tracker (we have to have a tracker fitted to our cars we use for work). Whoever removed it completed 90% of the work but overlooked one thing that caused the none starting issue.
The engine now starts and runs but is awfully rough (somewhat improves as it warms up). This has been said to be a known fault with the 2.0 diesel ingenium engine (I don't know precisely what) but the engine is not economical to repair and requires replacement.
If I get more details, I will add them.
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That would explain a smokey exhaust (blue/grey), but I don't understand how that would account for a rough idle.
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Definitely doesn't sound like it is running right to me. As others have said, it could be a valve clearance issue. Your mechanic should take the rocker cover off and visually inspect that all the pushrods are located correctly on the corresponding rocker and the gaps between the rocker and valve are adjusted correctly. If that checks out okay, then remove each push rod in order and check that none are bent by rolling on a flat surface. If this checks out fine, it could be a timing issue. If the injection timing is not quite right, you will get rough running and unburnt diesel which manifests as white smoke that stings your eyes and smells of diesel fuel rather than diesel exhaust smoke. I know Tdi engines sound like a bag of pebbles in a washing machine, but I am surprised a garage handed it back sounding like that.
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8 hours ago, reb78 said:
Put genuine ones on. Aftermarket plastic things are rubbish.
I second this. Only use the genuine part, the aftermarket ones seem hard and brittle, they won't last and that's if you can get them to fit in the first place!
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2 hours ago, Troll Hunter said:
You did, on 1st January 2019. It's one of the threads that western included in his reply.
Mike
I didn't even notice that was mine!
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12 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
They're probably used as "one way valves" which is more common, as others have said they crop up on the charge light circuit to stop the alternator warning light back-feeding into the ignition live and keeping the stop solenoid from actually stopping.
This rings a bell. I had this very problem a few years ago before I did the rewire. It wasn't 12v leaking back, but just enough to prevent the solenoid from closing so I had to stall the engine to stop it. I think I had a thread about it...
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It's been a while since I looked at the wiring. I'll double check all my notes and drawings for you that I made when I rewired my 110. I don't recall any more than 1, but I'm starting to doubt myself (also my original wiring was a right mess of previous DIY jobs since 1988, so maybe others were deleted by previous owners?)
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This is the only circuit containing the diode you mention that I found in my wiring loom on a 1988 2.5TD 110. As Western says, it is in the heated rear window circuit.
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I don't think either tdi is known for smoothness and refinement, its just not their thing. Economy and robustness is what they are designed for. I'd say ensuring they are well serviced, correct timing and a set of good injectors along with quality engine mounts are things to focus on.
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I put thread lock on the bolts and then used Halfords 14mm spanner. Once I got them as tight as I could by hand, I also gave them 2 or 3 moderate whacks with a hammer and the job is a good'un, now a few years later.
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2 hours ago, Northwards said:
Just as I was writing that I wondered what that might be in AF 17/32s apparently
Exactly, try getting some weird and wonderful none metric stuff to fit. Even with the ball cut off you may well have this same issue. I appreciate this is bodge it territory, but have you tried to see if you can get enough purchase using a Stilson pipe wrench?
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Just to point out the bleedin' obvious, but... As soon as a you take a grinder to the job, you are 100% committed to finding a way of undoing every single one of those bolts. Are you absolutely sure you cannot get them moving by giving them a soak in releasing agent for a few days, good bit of heat followed by some brute force?
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In theory, can the refurb of a steering box be done at home or do you need special tools and presses etc?
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1 hour ago, sean f said:
The basic idea is not new, I am sure I have read about a project somewhere where from quite a few years ago they pump water up to a reservoir during low demand and then let it back down via a turbine during the peak demands.
It is a great idea, we already do this in the UK and it is shown in the gridwatch data as pumped storage.
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47 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
We had a very cold but also very still and overcast period, which is an unfortunate combination - but as this stuff moves on there's huge work going into storage technologies and the like.
Demand is ever increasing, switching from ICE to EV (as I am) will increase demand on the grid. To store it, you need to generate it. I don't think wind and solar is a long term answer to relied upon as we transition away from coal, oil and gas. Storage can help flatten out peaks in demand, it won't cope for a few days of still and low light conditions.
I think you have hit the nail on the head about most people (particularly younger people who will be new drivers) not really caring about if a car is EV or ICE.
Those of us with diesel land rovers will become Fred Dibnah types of characters.
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A sustainable power dense production of electricity is we desperately need to feed our energy demands as we switch from burning fuels to using electricity, but somehow can't figure it out properly.
I was interested to see that when we recently had the cold snap and power demand was up, our wind and solar was not able to contribute much.
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I use the Elring head gasket which can be found here. Note that different thicknesses are available depending upon the piston protrusion relative to the deck of the block.
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This is a very interesting thread. I have always struggled with this job using a hammer and drift in an attempt to move the locking ring round with much bad language as I hit my knuckles.
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Careful now, you'll upset our plant based diet friends! 😆
Happy Christmas
I didn't even notice that was mine!
Engine conversions for a 2015 Puma
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I thought that you shouldn't tamper with a device fitted to your engine that is part of an emissions control system (even though people commonly blank off EGR). If this is true then surely replacing an engine for an older one which would be down grading in terms of euro compliance would be not allowed?
Also, if your car has a DPF (like a puma 2.2) you will fail an mot if you remove the dpf. So if for example you were to replace a 2.2 tdci with a 2.4, surely that would be not allowed?