Frax
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Posts posted by Frax
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Thanks guys - will let you know how it goes.
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Yes made sure I got a Land Rover genuine part for both gear and transducer.
Well may go and have another go tonight if the wife is watching di*t on the box.
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Thats good news at least I have to be moving in the right direction - big fear is removing the gear and finding out that it is blue.
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Thanks Mo - looks like a bigger job than I thought - can only hope that it will make a differences when I have done it. Are you running bit tires and is your speedo accurate then. I would not mind but doing 60mph at 50 on speedo is a bit much and the wrong way round for playing safe with the speed cops.
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I did not see part 20 - do you know if it is held by the same bolt that hold the transducer in place. Good pictures, now at least I know what I am looking at but can not see.
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Hi Ralf
Sound like I have been attacking the wrong bit once again, I take it that the bush has a lip the sits proud of the casing - did see the lip but was trying to pull out the center bit thinking the lip was part of the casing - drawing I have of it is not the best.
Regards
Frax
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Hi all I went to change my speedo drive gear for the 20 tooth blue gear today but failed.
Removed Transducer - easy but next was to remove the gear which seams to be held behind a bush which will not move.
Any tips for getting the gear and bush out,
Regards
Frax
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I fitted a set of Recaros from a Siera - no welding but a bit of cutting of the base to get them as low as possible. bolted 1" angle to the base and fitted them to the original runners. I did go back and made some lifters by cutting 2x1" box 18" long from corner to corner to lift the back of the seat and give me more leg room.
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Looks like a good kit - I think I will also order one if they will post it to Scotland that is,
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Did my one in a day, drained coolant, removed radiator and front grill then followed the info by Les in Tech archive. You need a good quality timing kit.
Viscous spanner, pullers and I think it was a 9.5mm drill. The drill locks the fuel pump. I might add that I had to do my one twice as got it 1 tooth out first time. Never had the flywheel locking pin just used the shaft keys and marks (still wonder if I should have used one and may still get something and check it again) To be honest it only cost me the price of the kit, borrowed viscous spanner - had a drill - borrowed pullers. Torque wrench would be handy.
Give it a go - it good to learn.
Always check it - check it again - have a cup of tea and check it again.
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I had the same problem. the two screws that hold the lens cover go through and attach the light to the body. I just used a burr on a drill to open up the body holes and drilled new mounting holes.
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Any grease is better than none.
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Thanks Mo - a lot of the inspiration can for your build.
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Well it was one tooth out on the timing, I checked and double checked this when I did the job but just goes to show you cant check it enough.
Thank you for all the replies, back up and running and as sweet as a nut.
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Well just about finished my rebuild and have got it in such a state that I was able to get it out for a run
, well started it and it white smoked 
– reversed it out and left it ticking over till it heated.The smoke cleared so off I set, down the road I went and as I looked in my mirror all I could see was more white smoke
, throttle response was also pretty poor. 
I did fit a new timing belt which was checked and double checked.
New head gasket also fitted and torqued as per the book.
Back into the garage and have now removed the radiator and all required pulleys so tomorrow timing cover will be coming off again once I get the crank shaft pulley key out which does not want to move
What a pain, any thought on what I have done wrong, might be obvious when I get the cover off, I hope so.
Regards
Frax
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Sound like your starter is not throwing out all the time, may not be spinning fast enough to throw or sticking, it would still spin but would not turn anything.
The only way to tell is remove it and try it on the floor, find some means of holding it down as it will jump as it spins
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Easier to push it in from the fuse box up than from dash down, well my one was.
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Ran my one down to the fuse box and used one of the screws the hold the fuse box in place to the bulkhead with ring terminal.
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Well my one did last winter (Scotland) and needed cleared every time it snowed, also it will stop all the cr*p of the day landing in the blower motor. I would also like to think that it would stop so much damp air getting to the blower motor.
Worth a go anyway.
Frax
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Just bought one as he is back and selling but you need to be quick only two left - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/land-rover-defender-LHD-90-110-130-heater-intake-snow-cover-/300631861889?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item45ff0e2a81#ht_1397wt_1187
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Well its cut now - removed about 50mm from both ends but made sure that I have 15mm from the merest font.
Will see how it goes.
Frax
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Thanks for that, I see that it states that = top, bottom and side margins - minimum 11 millimetres so should be able to loose some of the length if not hight.
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Thanks for that Litch, I did not want to change or alter the fonts just cut down on the surrounding reflective plate, looks like that can not be done either.
How do you stand if your car is pre 2003 ?
Frax
, well started it and it white smoked 
– reversed it out and left it ticking over till it heated.
, throttle response was also pretty poor. 
Water in diesel... please help!!!!
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I would drain fuel tank, remove and change fuel filter remove all the fuel lines and if possible use a vac pump and suck them through, Leave engine to sit as long as possible and any water should drain down into sump providing you have not persisted in trying to start it. Even then the longer it sits the more should drain through. Put some clean diesel back in fuel tank and drain again. More clean diesel in tank, pump through using mech pump, fill fuel filter with clean diesel and again bleed through to injectors. (you could remove injectors and turn engine over to see if there is any water evident) replace everything and try for a start.
You should also change your oil.
Failing that you would need to remove the head.
Just my thoughts but someone may come up with other ideas.
What ever water will not compress and could do some serious damage.
Good Luck.
Frax