ninjagreg

Hi, I'm thinking of purchasing a 05/06 Range Rover Vogue/HSE and want to know how I can stop myself getting burnt by any cloned or stolen cars? I assume all the VINs are stamped into the metalwork etc and in the front windscreen. Does anyonw know where all the VINs are located? Also is there any way of checking the engine number to ensure it matches the original VIN? e.g. the engine hasn't been replaced? Is it just a case of checking the original log book? Any help would be much appreciate as I don't want to get my fingers burnt!!

Given Land Rover's terrible history of customer service, K series engine problems on the Freelander 1 for example, I would take it back and demand they inspect it with a proper road trial, also demand they provide you with a courtesy car. If they refuse to do this then I'd be demanding a replacement. Over-reaction? well maybe that's just me but with a new car you shouldn't be having to do their job for them of finding the possible cause/fault!!

I want one.

Thank you for the replies.

Thanks Les, yeah I know what you mean I've already got one of the exhaust manifold pipes off (used my hi-lift jack as a spreader and carfully eased it off - I was actually pretty proud that I thought of that one by myself). I can't do that with the other pipe though as I have nothing for the jack to push against, so I'm using a rubber hammer and it is verrryyyyy slowly coming. I'll get the turbo lubed up beforehand and idle the engine for a while once it's on.

I need to buy a pair of defender diffs from my local LR breakers and I don't have a clue what I should look out for or check. Would appreciate any advice. specifically I'm concerned about buying a load of rubbish, so is there anything I can check? turning them? colour of the oil etc? thanks.

Thanks for all the advice, i flushed the intercooler a few times with kerosene and was amazed at how black it came out the first time, flushed it until it came clear. As it turns out the rebuild is taking me longer than I anticipated so any vapours should now be long gone. Has anyone fitted a new turbo before? when I fit it I assume I should I put some new engine oil through the bearing and turn the turbine a couple of times. A mate of mine also said I should back fill the top oil hose with new enegine oil. Is this right?

Thanks Les.

Ok, So I've just bought myself a new turbo for my 300tdi, as my old one was starting to smoke and I didn't have the time to overhaul it myself (old one will be going on fleabay soon if any Irish owners are interested for spares/repairs). Whilst I have my bonnet up I thought it was also time to give my Landy a bit of love. A new timing belt, plugs, filters, oil change etc. I'd like to flush out my radiator and my intercooler too, and was wondering what is the best DIY way of cleaning these out. I was thinking of flushing with kerosene, which I have readily available, and then flushing with water. I don't want to have to go out and buy any specialist products if I can help it. Does anyone have any suggestions or tips? Your advice and opinions are, as always, greatly appreciated.

wow, thanks, I just googled them. didn't know such a thing existed.

Ok, so I had the turbo off my 300tdi the other day and when putting it back on I threaded one of the manifold bolt holes in the cylinder head - I was being careful I promise!! Anyhow all the other bolts went in no problem but it's annoying me to know one is not as it should be. Any possible home workshop remedies? other than the obvious buying a new cylinder head!! ;( All suggestions gratefully received.

thanks guys, I think I'll pop up and see what exactly has happened.

Thanks, so I guess I should swap him over to coil springs, there's a LR breakers on the way to his house so I'll stop by and pick some up.

I was speaking to a worried friend at the weekend. He was telling me how the other evening he heard a very loud bang from his D2 parked in the drive. He went outside to be greeted by his dog flying, scared witless, through the front door and a big puff of what he called "smoke" coming from the vehicle. The result is that the back suspension has now dropped, whilst the front suspension is still normal. I've not seen the vehicle and he's not mechanically minded. He's loathed to take it to Landrover and is currently driving around in his old Fiat Punto!! I HAVE to help him! Before I head over with my toolbox, he lives about 60miles away, does anyone have any ideas what it might be? or where I should start looking? Any help/suggestions gratefully received.

Hi, I'm interested in this as well. Is there any considerations to the size of the tubing? I'm no plumber but the radiator hoses are a much larger diameter than standard domestic copper piping will this cause a problem with flow or pressure? In my opinion it would be a dream to be able to weld in a brass tap at the bottom of the radiator to allow easy draining!!

Thanks for the advice, definitely food for thought. If you have any pics of the process I would be v interested in seeing them.

Received my order from Namrick and would recommend them to anyone else who is looking for quality nuts and bolts. reasonably priced and very fast delivery.

Thanks for the advice on the DURALAC, I'll def get some before I start.

Thanks, tools are also another major consideration for a job like this. I've been looking at ratcheting spanners as I'm sure, despite their quite high cost, the effort saved is well worth the money - especially with the amount of bolts I will be encountering!!

Thanks for all the sound advice, yeah I'm only going to replace what is absolutely essential, or logical to do. I'm going to keep a photo log so it might help someone else on here.

Thanks a lot, I've just placed an order with Namrick for a couple of mixed packs of HT BZP nuts and bolts. Is it wrong to get excited about nuts and bolts?!!

Hi, so I searched previous forums so that I didn't waste anyone's time but I couldn't find anything. Very quick and hopefully simple question. What nut and bolts will I need when doing a chassis swap - I really only want to replace any bolts that come into contact with the chassis e.g. body work and anything up front in the engine bay. Does anyone know what are the common sizes I need? Which is preferable zinc or stainless? Also are there any "tonnage" considerations? (I actually hadn't heard of this phrase until I went into my local agricultural shop to buy some bolts!) I assume it refers to the tensile strength of the bolt?! Any help and opinions greatfully received. Also are there are any bits that are worth replacing whilst the chassis is being swapped - and I mean bits that aren't easy to get to normally. Thanks.

Thanks Quagmire, I went to my local agri shop and they will have some Tractol black for me by tomorrow, I already have some oxi paint. Now I just need a spare few days to do the chassis swap!!!

lmao

yes... yes they are Les