Dr Strangeglove
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Posts posted by Dr Strangeglove
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I made my own. I am around 6'4" and it made a difference for me - but I also made seat risers from 40mm box section.
I think I may benefit from a smaller diameter steering wheel, mostly for getting in and out.
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17 hours ago, Snagger said:
if you’re having to crank the engine for a while to start it, it’s like the fuel system at fault, probably air getting in through a tiny leak in the upper part of the system and letting the fuel drain back to the tank.
Ah, ok! As I am a total novice regards spannering, is there a thread you could direct me to that may help me through trying to sort this.
Thanks in advance for any help you can give.
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I had one of the CTek 3.8(?)a ones. It seemed to work well then started playing up - but I had let it bake on the dash so I can't really blame the product. That too was an issue cycling through the options.
I was just about to purchase another (though 5 or 7a) as the defender is struggling to start but I am now wondering if a set of glow plugs may be a better purchase!
I must admit I have an Aldi one and I am happy with it, but did wonder if the CTek would prolong the life of the battery. Do the CTek ones actually work at restoring batteries?
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I think it's great that you are allowing your lad along this path - far better for the mind than Xbox.
Safety is a must and much of it has been covered, and to be honest, if you trust him with a grinder then he must have some common sense. I find the grinder to be one of the most dangerous tools in the box!
So safety- welded makes things hot which then burn things like hands and fingers. You can tell him this but he will also learn this himself!!
Next, welding produces heat and hot sparks. These sparks travel and set light to things. Be careful where you weld and what is around you. Sparks can roll under small gaps and onto flammable fluff and rags!! Teaching him good housekeeping on the flammable side of things is important. Also may be worth investing in a fire extinguisher and how to use it.
The next thing is a good dust mask for when he is grinding. The s**t that comes from grinding discs is not what you want to breathe in over the long term.
Where are you based. I am sure plenty of folk on hear could supply offcuts of steel for practice.
Well done for encouraging your lad and the level of support you are giving him. If you have the time and are inclined, learning to weld yourself may help him and build your relationship (though that sounds ok already with what you have said).
Good luck with learning and I wish you both a happy and healthy new year.
M
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Many thanks. I will get on to it.
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Thanks VB, that is extremely kind. I will try to find some details as I have no idea about bearings and tolerances so I will have to look into that.
I can draw out and laser cut all the bracketery so I can sort that side.
If anyone can help with bearings and tolerances I would appreciate it.
Regards
Mick
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I want to make a similar carrier but all the decent stub axles seem to be either USA or Australia based. So, two options;
Does anyone know a UK supplier of these.
Or
Does anyone have any drawings that could be given to an engineering shop but with details of the appropriate bearings etc.
Regards
Mick
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Does anyone have a current link to these items?
Unfortunately my main battery drill is an older Hitachi (about 8 years ago) which is just before they changed batteries to the current type. Unfortunately it is difficult to get the bare tools to fit these.
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I would try fitting a set of wheels with good tyres if you can borrow a set from someone - but without the spacers. Or just try without the spacers to start with.
I really am no expert mechanic or indeed with land rovers, but I have had a number of experiences with juddering steering and that has been down to bad tyres (which often did not look damaged). One of those experiences was with my defender!
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I believe thicker material stops more noise, but that also depends on density so I don't know how that will go on changing from steel to aluminium.
Also with noise you have to do all of the barrier and you would only be doing a small part.
Please keep us updated of what you do.
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Really nice! Well done.
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14 hours ago, Retroanaconda said:
I never had any problems with road-holding or braking. They were quiet, same as any AT. But my car is fairly well soundproofed.
Thanks for that. I do very few miles but I like the look of the tread on those. It looks like it will get through water but the tread is aggressive enough for a bit of off-road.
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10 hours ago, Retroanaconda said:
I picked up a set of new take-off Continental Cross-Contacts a while back and ran them on the 90, but I was disappointed with the wear rate. They were down to the limit in less than 30,000 miles which is not acceptable in my view. I was doing a fair amount of miles on unsealed stone roads which may have been their undoing. Swapped to BFG ATs and haven’t looked back.
Apart from the west rate, how were the cross-contacts for road holding and stopping in the wet and dry. Also where they noisy?
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I did not go for the full removal bar. I did look at it but actually wanted to retain the lower section. I am the type that leaves carp in the back and I did not want it all shooting forward and ending up in the footwell if I put the brakes on hard!
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I did this alteration, though I did fabricate my own bar. Very similar to the yrm job but from 30x30 box - but I am not too precious about the truck! I also made myself some seat rails from 40x40 box section. The combination is great. I to am just under 6'4".
This combination allows me to move the seat further back but importantly allows the seat to recline more. I can adjust the seat to suit me, which is great as I suffer from a bad back.
I still need to finish mine as I am going to make some cappings to cover the box (remember I made my own so sure the yrm one will be fine).
Not a hard job to do but I used a nibbler to cut the bulkhead, so lots of tiny crescent shapes to sweep up. Otherwise I think I would have used a jigsaw as I did not want lots of grinding dust in the truck.
I can take photos if you like but it is a bit Heath Robinson!
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Thanks Sigi. I did manage this but took me ages as 50% of the fixings were well beyond unscrewing even with lots of Plusgas. It ended up with mole grips and twist till the fixing sheared in most cases as drill's and grinder can't get access. I did drill the ones to the bulkhead though.
I used the parts from paddocks and I was happy with it. It was from 3mm steel and galvanised. Bracket to bulkhead was 2mm.
Here's a photo of old and new together.
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How much did it cost to do the galvanising Litch? Was it rusted or clear when you took it. I have heard some won't do older kit due to it contaminating the tank.
Did you do much of a repair to yours?
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I need to change the sill channel on my Defender 90 (1993 K reg) and wondered if anyone that has done it has any tips before I start. This is due to corrosion so obviously it is not going to just unscrew!
I have the replacement channel, the rear bracket to the tub and the front plate with two fixed screws.
Al help and advice welcome. Also any photos if anyone has them.
Thanks in advance.
Mick -
Has anyone got a link to the stainless tank?
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The problem for us "budget" defender owners is would we actually be able to afford one of the super hi-tech jobbies? Let's face, I doubt it will be it's ability off road that will let it down, but the cost to keep the electrickery going will be beyond my wallet!
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Has anyone used old milk containers. They look strong enough and flexible. Also you tend to have one available every couple of days and nice and easy to cut with scissors.
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Really interesting as I am new to Defenders and spanners! I am sure I will have to do the same in the near future and need to learn a lot first so will do bits first.
The rust removal has been very interesting.
I thought you said you were only changing the chassis 😁
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On 10/18/2016 at 10:07 AM, bodumatau said:
lights and dim and electronic I don't need, just a wider field of view
i think mine was designed only to look out a small back door with a spare tyre mounted on it, and even that would be too big
Did you ever sort this. I like to know what is behind so I can read the road situation.
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Lightweight vent panel and bulkhead build
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
First can I say how much I admire what you have done so far, I am in awe of your skills.
I find it frustrating you are getting the rips.
These comments are just guessing, so please note they are from a pressing novice - as in never done it or seen it being done.
With shear metal I have found that you have to allow the metal to form. If you try and stretch it too much it will tip or fracture.
With your panel you are forming quite a deep recess in flat sheet. If you were only forming a z from a sheet you would fold it. The edge to edge measurement would be significantly reduced. What you are doing is a mirrored z and giving it very little material to work with so everything is being stretched. The pressing needs to be able to drag metal in for it to work with. It can do it from the outside but not in the centre as both sides are connected.
Would it be possible to cut a slot in the centre again as you did before? This will allow that spare material in the middle to be used to form the pressing. The longer edges should work ok but the extreme corners are where the trial and error will come in. Along the long edges you could possibly get away with just a cut, but I n the CV corners more thought and testing would be needed.
I wonder if there is literature available that could give you some basic ideas.
I like fabrication and can't help but want to change things to how I want them. I have wondered about doing a bulkhead but have always been stumped by the pressing of the recess - then I see this thread and you blow my mind!
Fantastic effort on what you are doing - well done.
Just one note on your folder, try turning your channel into a box section by adding a plate to the open side as that should add quite a bit of strength.
Well done again - this is a fantastic thread!!