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TobyMellin

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Posts posted by TobyMellin

  1. 18 hours ago, mad_pete said:

    Or I can pull apart random things I find in the house or shed ...E90D827A-205A-4FB6-84DE-2E34E2BFB318.thumb.jpeg.4af71ef58147d894e05f369aee2b5653.jpeg

    That'll do :D

     

    I cut the runners off my original Defender seats, welded them in place and put a couple bolts in to be safe.

    Just bear in mind, if you have a middle seat, you'll struggle to get the doors shut with the electric seat adjuster buttons on. If you have a cubbybox, you'll be fine

  2. Perfect, thanks everyone.

     

    If you could please @Ed Poore, that would be great.

     

    The TD5 setup is easy as the pump bolts straight on, next extra tensioners etc.

    I use my setup quite a lot for inflating truck tyres, air tanks etc. I did burn out the clutch on my last pump trying to inflate some ait tanks on a truck a bit too quick. Now I just leave it on idle and it's been fine since.

     

    Thanks for the help

  3. I've done a few AC conversion for onboard air supply on Defender TD5's, but a mate has asked me to convert his Defender 300tdi.

    I've never owned a 300tdi. Does the AC pump bolt straight on to a 300tdi?

    Someone is selling a conversion kit, but it includes a front timing cover. Does this need to be changed to accept an air con pump?

     

    Thanks for the help!

    Toby

  4. On 2/23/2020 at 7:51 AM, mad_pete said:

    Found these 

    https://www.raptor4x4.co.uk/raptor-4x4-removable-seat-fitting-kit-for-defender.html

    How does the the Land Rover seat base remove ? Well more how does it stay on place I guess. The rx8 base is held on with 4 bolts but how much holding does a seat base need ?  Wondering if short studs would make it removable.

    Hmmm good idea in one sense....but surely the rails would come loose overtime with just hand tightening torque....

    Personally I used the original Defender seat rails, welded/botled them to the RX8 seats (RX8 main rail removed, sliding part still attached).

    With regards to the airbags, I've left mine in. 

    I've installed a cut out part with battery isolator and Anderson socket incase I need to disconnect battery or jump start. The battery is still somewhat accessible with the seat slid forward, but I wouldn't be able to remove it. Removing the seat only takes 2 mins anyway.

     

    Toby

  5. Where the arrow is pointing is a Parrot handsfree. Next to the Parrot is the pin entry for the Sigma alarm.

    The centre console I made myself from 1mm steel and then coated with  bed liner type material.

    The panel with the switches on is from Amazon. It's a tidy way of housing the switches volt meter and 12v sockets.

    The fuseboard is from a Volvo Truck (I work for Volvo, got this one handy out of the scrap bin).

     

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  6. On 12/1/2019 at 2:01 PM, mad_pete said:

    That is very nice looking. I may have some questions around that in a bit if I may. 

    Mine remain low effort as my seat rails have not arrived. 

    Seats have though and they look good. A lot of seat for the money. 

    They have a car air fresher smell to them, which I hate so I might give them a go over with a steam cleaner and some leather polish. Maybe take a look at taking the air bags and seat belt clips out.

    Any questions, drop me a PM

  7. I was worried about the potential loss of leg room, but there doesn't seem to be much difference.

    I cant put my seat back as far as possible due to my toolbox behind (the back of the seat hits it), but i'm 6ft and I can cope.

    You can see the original RX8 heated seat switches on the bottom right of my centre console. I may change the switches in the future to match the rest of my switches, but they'll do for now.

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  8. Fitting them without those rails is relatively easy. The most time consuming bit was cutting off the RX8 mounts and wiring them up.

    I used the original RX8 switches but ran them through a custom made fuse/relay center behind the passenger seat.

     

    I think I've had my heated seat on every day since I fitted them 👼😂

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  9. This has been something I’ve wanted to do for a while now. I’ve got a 2000 Defender TD5 and always wanted a dashboard that has some use! 

    The most time consuming part was making templates, measuring, cutting, remeasuring, throwing template away and starting again numerous times. I’m pretty happy with the end product. Just need to put some form of coating on (thinking maybe Raptor or some other textured finish). 

     

    More gauges Gauges are one the way, once they arrive I can do final hole cuts and get it fitted 

     

    Toby 

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    • Like 3
  10. 48 minutes ago, Sabre said:

    Yes Toby, tried as much as I wanted, I could not find a direct contact for them. All suppliers' names popped up 

    What is it your after exactly? Mac Tools are Britool distributors/spares suppliers. A mate of mine is a Mac Man, I could ask him if you need parts?

  11. I looked in to this aswel, but found all the injection moulded consoles already have a "pre set" layout of where things go, which didn't appeal to me. I had a Raptor in my old 90, and it was awesome, but just not as "factory" looking a I would like.

    So i've decided to build my own....just need to make the sides now and then I can start cutting the dash :D

     

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