Ed Poore

The L322 rears are 1/3 2/3 split. Mine only cost me £140 and I have a possibility of some more for £250ish which I might swap mine for.

I'm heading London / Guildford direction on Monday for about a week so if you fancy a little detour down Surrey direction you could have a look at them in the flesh.

Tilted forwards there basically vertical (bearing in mind the Defender seat box slopes backwards). I'm not sure you can fit them in the back because they're too tall to sit on top of the wheel arches. They'll be too far forward on the floor and side by side I don't think they'll fit between the wheel arches as they're too wide. The ones I've got came out of a Vogue SE so have the screens in the back. Ones out of an HSE might work if they're more manual and you can remove the headrest. I don't think you have a hope of fitting 3 rows in. For the above reasons the fronts probably won't work and using rears there's simply not enough space. You also need to consider seat belt mounting points. In mine the fronts reuse the factory ones (removed the built in ones on the seat). The rear has a similar plate (but channeling my inner Nige) to mount the seat belt to the sides and then uses the same base anchor point and then RR buckle. They are all tied into the chassis at the bottom end this way and the tops are built in the same way. But probably stronger than the factory mounts.

Legroom is massive compared to the original but I've lost a bit of boot length as a consequence, not sure I'd trade it though. With the front seats further back then the leg room is as minimal as you'd want to get. The bonus is because the L322 seats are proper full-depth in the back that you don't actually need too much actual "space" between the front seats and the rear because most of your upper leg is actually on the seat. Dogs massively prefer the new seats compared to the old.

I just drilled out the captive nut plates and relocated them (held in by rivets). I think I might have chopped an inch or two off the length of the runners and enlarged a hole to take the standard Defender bolts. Underwear storage??? Underseat? - Sort of, it's a bit of a sod to remove the lid since the motor for the runner sits flush to the floor so you really have to shove it in hard. But with the seats lifted up completely you can get a hand under there. Just enough space to get a set of jump leads in too although I've changed them to an Anderson connector. The drivers storage is the same but you wouldn't want to keep anything you access frequently in there. I keep some emergency spares in there (fan belt, wheel bearings etc.). The framework is for the second row of seats, I just welded a frame which bolts through the existing seat belt mounts in the floor. The framework also has the benefit of not having any verticals in the middle so you can push long stuff through underneath. It's actually quite handy for storing stuff underneath as the second row seats tip up easily. I've yet to box it in but might do in the near future. Things like tow ropes, jump leads etc., sit under there.

If you want any specific photos let me know and I can try and get some.

Wouldn't have thought you've got much else of an option in Wales or Scotland. If it's downhill or flat it's going to flood

What ever you do you must not take it for a test drive

Can you just put a request into the Land Rover heritage division or whatever it's called?

Thinking outside the box slightly. What about tapering the slab downhill and then making the door have the opposite taper so that you've got a downhill slope running out of the garage. You can then put a bit of foam / rubber etc., because in normal operation it's not going to be dragging across the floor. Can knock up a diagram if that didn't make sense.

From an L322 so I think they are possibly even bigger than the RR Sport ones - I think the RRS share the same layout as the Disco 3. The front ones need either the seat base dropping or if you're of the right proportions (as I am) then you can probably get away with just removing the front bracket that lifts the front of the seat squab up, the mounting holes need to be relocated. I don't think they'll work in anything other than a 110 station wagon though unless you've done some drastic bulkhead removal. The bit that's likely to catch is the corner by the B pillar, in a 110 SW it's a nice 90° corner there so you've got the clearance, don't know about other models. The rears do just fit (technically they are wider than the inside of the car but a bit of door slamming squashes the cushions . Obviously need a custom frame welded up for them and ideally they'll be mounted lower down in the vehicle. I've only got to my "proof of concept" stage so far so didn't want to cut into the wheel arches before I knew they would work. Now that they do I'm inclined to drop them an inch or two. You also need a 110 USW for the rears as the seat backs latch into the wheel arch in the L322 so needs another bracket fabricating to latch them into. In a Station Wagon they're halfway through the rear windows. Some pictures I have handy: Apologies about the mud in the rear - had been to a shoot. We'll gloss over the machete on the floor... The fronts utterly transform the vehicle for long distances - having a proper armrest is a massive improvement - although the cubby box wasn't too bad, this is adjustable . All motors work but I haven't got around to building a PWM controller for the heated seats yet, been busy dropping axles onto my fingers .

Another possible idea. I liked the idea of the Mantec Load Luggas unfortunately there were three problems: I didn't want to pay for them They wouldn't fit my 110 with the L322 seats in the rear Mantec went bust So I had a stock of small (20x20mm?) steel angle iron and fabricated my own. One piece of angle sat over the lip of the wheel arch, then there were a couple of uprights and another piece of angle across the top. The front is fixed into the spreader plate for the C pillar, the top rear corner has a stay across to where the rear bench seats originally bolted in (replaced with a rivnut rather than rivet) and I put a rivnut into the corner of the wheel-arch nearest the door opening to hold the rear corner down. On top of this I welded up two shelves (each half depth) that were a nice tight fit, just a couple of pieces of angle iron to sit inside the frame and then a couple of bits of box to go across. Topped off with 5mm ply - gaffer taped because I was in a rush but 4 years later it's still fine . The height of the shelves were dictated by the TIG welder (tallest piece of equipment I might want to fit underneath) and the back of the seats when they were folded down. The purpose of the shelves allowed me to simply fold down the rear seats and put a king size mattress in there for camping. I was originally going to have hatches in the top to access the storage in the wheel arch but never got around to it. Actually using it I found it very useful being able to access it from underneath the shelves because shifting the mattress was a pain. Unfortunately I don't have a decent photo of it and current modifications to the 110 mean that I need to modify the frames to fit in again, but you can just make out the steel frame above the electrical cable to the rear door.

@Daan neat but only if you don't have a fuel tank in the way

It was pretty bad. Just been back down through the Spean Bridge / Dalwhinnie route so further inland and maybe more sheltered. Coming down the steep hill into Dalwhinnie had to accelerate to maintain headway. Was worse south of Glasgow though.