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Ed Poore

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Ed Poore last won the day on November 18 2017

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About Ed Poore

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    Old Hand

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    Tongham, Surrey
  1. Unless you get the antenna higher up you're going to be sacrificing performance by dropping it down the side of the vehicle like that.
  2. Mig reccomendations h

    I picked up a virtually new second hand Clarke 130EN for £100 including a load of consumables and safety gear (Parweld auto darkening helmet and gloves) and it's been absolutely find for everything I've thrown at it. Switched away from fluxed wire and moved to having gas and it makes a world of difference. Slightly random suggestion but have you considered TIG? If you're in the £1k ball-park then I just got myself an R-Tech AC/DC 210 (they do smaller / cheaper) and only had 30 minutes to play with it so far but it was beautiful to use and considering it's the first time I'd even touched a TIG let alone set it up and have a play with it I'm not displeased with the results. Would be more versatile long-term. Don't get me wrong though - I wouldn't be throwing away the MIG anytime soon, there's a lot to be said for point and shoot particularly in inaccessible places and upside down on your back. But depending on your budget you could possibly get a half decent MIG and TIG together.
  3. A night in the Glens

    Glad you weren't in -10 like it was when I was up in the Highlands last month. But I do the Highlands.
  4. Suspect they were hosted on photobucket or whatever the site was that's now started charging for pictures.
  5. It's Snowing

    Meh Manchester was pathetic when i drove through this morning I stayed up a bit longer in the Highlands to play... The Defender was clear of all snow at midnight and that was taken at 8am. Equally thr bottom photo should show a road, again overnight snowfall. Neighbour had cleared the road with his tractor mounted snow plough, then the council came around as well, that's the result of overnight. Just got back to Surrey and I would have said of all the places I saw Glenmorriston was the worst hit. Friends family further north towards Inverness said they didn't have as much. Glad I got my rear locker for going out after beasties with that amount of snow.
  6. Which Range Rover to buy

    Not just that the 3.6 diesel V8 he mentions is the 3.6L TDV8 which was launched in 2007 and designed not long before so a 2000's baby. From a quick Google it looks like the 3.9 Rover V8 has been in production from the 60's so only about 40 years of engine development in between them then. Even if you consider the end of the production run (2006 according to Wikipedia) then it was being phased out as the TDV8 was being developed. On the subject of turbo charging the TDV8 doesn't make do with just one either... I think on the subject of a fairer comparison you would be better off doing a comparison between the 4.2 supercharged and 3.6TDV8 since they were introduced into the L322 at the same time. 3.6TDV8: 270hp, 470 lbft 4.2 supercharged: 385hp, 406 lbft Very little in it then. [edit]Putting some figures behind it - towing the 110 to Wales into a strong headwind (by far and away the scariest drive I've done) with the 3.6TDV8 I averaged 30mpg. Had no issues with power - just the trailer I had and 110 made it quite a tall combination (110's bonnet was level with the Range Rover's roof) - but boy was the wind fun! [/edit]
  7. Defender 90 rear storage/toolbox fitting

    Was better than nothing as it was all I had in the back of the Land Rover in the middle of France...
  8. Defender 90 rear storage/toolbox fitting

    Definitely... In all honesty it's (in my opinion anyway) the far superior vehicle. Unless you're doing tight twisty off road all the time I find the extra length makes it more capable off road. Equally it's much more planted on the road and you get a lot more space inside. You've got to remember it's not much different in girth and length to a typical saloon like a Mondeo which shows you how compact the 90 is. A work colleagues XKR is both longer and wider (ignoring the spare wheel on mine).
  9. Defender 90 rear storage/toolbox fitting

    Regarding pipework - if you can do that then it's probably worthwhile - I didn't have anything as I only had the compressor. The main issue I've seen with our normal compressors with water is not actually water but humidity which a water trap doesn't really help with. Although I'd guess with a hot engine the humidity inside the engine bay (if you take the intake from there) should be relatively low. I think the issue with water in the tank will be more build up over time rather than anything else. Oiler - just a cheap inline tool oiler off eBay - oil I didn't have any, I was going to use the recommended oil for tools, but instead squirted loads of WD40 into the compressor befoer I closed it up and then I've been filling the oiler with WD40 instead... Pressure is limited by the compressor manifold switch - in excess of 100psi, I think about the 130ish mark is when the switch cuts out, cuts back in about 90 I think. Oiler: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-4-BSP-MINI-AIR-LINE-FILTER-WATER-MOISTURE-TRAP-IN-LINE-OILER-FOR-AIR-TOOLS-/272765855132?hash=item3f821ca59c Filter: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-AIR-BREATHER-FILTER-BLUE-12mm-Neck-Clamp-/170609451135?hash=item27b91da07f Pressure switch: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AIR-COMPRESSOR-PRESSURE-SWITCH-SINGLE-PHASE-PRESSURE-GAUGE-SAFETY-VALVE-/173040942701?hash=item284a0b3e6d
  10. Defender 90 rear storage/toolbox fitting

    That's what I meant by compressor manifold, in hindsight not the right term. Regarding pipework off the back and at least with the 300Tdi pump I just sanded a big ol thick piece of flat bar flat, drilled and tapped the appropriate holes. Cut a piece of welly as a gasket and bolted it all up. The pump I got (a Denso one) had two threaded holes for holding the manifold on, two big holes for input and output and two locating pins. I can try and take some piccies if I remember in daylight. But from input to output I have: K&N filterr -> Oiler -> Compressor -> Basic filter / seperator -> manifold. Manifold has pressure release valve, pressure switch, unloader port. On the output of the manifold I have the tank and a separate regulator for the 65psi for the diff's. The tank had a T piece to split off for a PCL connection inside the back door. The switch inside sends power to the pressure switch which in turn fires the compressor (or fuel solenoid at the moment) as required. The bit I'm missing at the moment is the non return valve. One thing to consider is if you want to run the engine all the time. If not something like a suspension compressor off an L322 which is electric might be an alternative with a big enough tank. They're about £140 new I think from Steve at Advanced Factors. From memory the mine will do two complete raises of the suspension on the tank alone which is about 6" in diameter and 4 to 5ft long on that so a reasonable volume of air. With regards to water never seen any in the trap but chances are its evaporated there. Test will be to run the plasma off it which is very fnickerty, really didn't like Wales' humid climate over Christmas with Dads big V twin compressor. Think its because its a pilot arc version and it was shorting in the torch.
  11. Defender 90 rear storage/toolbox fitting

    Sort of... It was but I wanted to take the 110 to my parents for Christmas rather than the L322 and it was being stubborn at starting. Found out for some reason I've lost the supply to the fuel shutoff solenoid. In despair because I really couldn't be bothered finding out where the cable was damaged I looked around the engine bay any my eyes lit up when I saw the compressor. So I've dutifully nicked the 12V feed to the compressor (luckily couldn't be arsed with wiring it from an switched feed) and I am still using that to switch the solenoid. Extra security feature... - have to switch this innocuous switch on the dash to start it, although I have jumped in in a rush recently and forgotten to switch it the 'compressor' on and wondered why the engine isn't starting. Equally when I remove the key why the engine is still running... Apart from fixing that one thing I need to install is a non-return valve after the compressor. I forgot to order one before heading off to France so the 110 sounded a bit like a steam train going up the tricky stuff when I activated the diff as the compressor would switch off when it reached pressure and then sufficient pressure would leak back through the pump that it would start up again so did a good impression of a steam train as it kept kicking in and out.
  12. Defender 90 rear storage/toolbox fitting

    From my experience pretty much any tool can be run (only had the compressor fitted since September though). My tank ~15 seconds to fill from empty (9l according to online sources), I've made the intake side of things 10mm bore air line and the output stage (for simplicity) 6mm as the Ashlocker and the P38 tank had a 6mm bore fitting already. If you attach a blow gun and hold the trigger down venting at the maximum rate everything allows the compressor keeps cutting in and out as it's being limited by the 6mm bore pipework. When I was in France I managed to get some logs stuck between the rim and the tyre so let all the air out and with someone jumping up and down on the tyre managed to pull out most of it. Re-inflating the tyre from empty to 35psi took <1 minute. Again I suspect the 6mm bore limiting things here. So in summary I think it'll be more than enough for what you need - also probably a damn sight quieter, the only significant downside is you have to run the engine unless you have a suitably large tank. But all in I reckon I had a breakdown of the following costs: Compressor (eBay): ~£35 Genuine bracket to mount onto 300Tdi block (eBay): ~£30 Idler pulley & arm (Bearmach): ~£40 Belt (Bearmach): ~£10 Tank (friend): free Compressor manifold (eBay): ~£30 (typically knew I had one lying around but only found it after I'd ordered the new one) Pipework - 10m of 10mm, 10m of 6mm (eBay): ~£20 Various push-fit fittings & oil feeders, filters etc: ~£40 I was up against it on time to get the thing assembled before my trip to France so paid over the odds for some stuff to get it faster (e.g. I could have built a bracket for nothing to hold the compressor). So ~£200 all in plus I have probably about 18m of pipework left but I thought it'd come in useful elsewhere so ordered a decent length. I also had a slightly more complicated setup as I needed a regulated 65psi output for the locker but also thought I might as well fit an unregulated PCL output for running tools / filling up tyres. I don't think there's much to compare against an engine driven compressors and the benefit is that on most Land Rover engines they had the AC option so if you don't already have air-con then it's really simple to mount it. If you do then there are several threads on here showing various mounting solutions. I'd have said that it's probably better at driving tools than my 2.5hp 100l compressor in the shed. Again when I was in France most of the Frenchies had aired down their tyres and when we were packing up after the weekend my 110 reinflated 4 vehicles (16 tyres) before one of the others with a twin cylinder ARB style compressor had finished their vehicle. Also very useful for blowing dust out of the vehicles after high-speed runs across gravel tracks! Getting BBQs going is another good use :-) The downside is once people realise you have one they'll always be pestering you for the air supply rather than breaking out their own equipment.
  13. Defender 90 rear storage/toolbox fitting

    What about an engine driven compressor? Recently installed an AC compressor onto my 300Tdi and the output is pretty impressive. Mounted a small tank (off a mates P38) behind the passenger rear wheel in my 110. If you happen to have a 200Tdi I've got on sat in the shed gathering dust...
  14. I'd recommend Craig's Buzzweld stuff. Painted my new rear axle with Chassis In One and its holding up well so far. If you can I'd go for the thinner option and spray it on in lots of coats with a pause of maybe 30 minutes between coats. I tried some bits brush painted and some with an underbody "Shultz" gun and spray painting not only appears better but appears to be tougher too.
  15. I've got one lying at my parents if you're interested. Can also scrounge up some hub assemblies and new discs. [edit]Also have a prop from mine in good nick - all came off a 300Tdi 110 with R380 and LT230[/edit]