Ed Poore

Appreciate that by got rid of I mean not visible.

Looks better than the station wagon ones because it's got rid of that c.d pillar.

I found the IID Tool did everything I wanted of it. Some codes just came up with a code but a little bit of Googling would usually throw up what the code was and suggested fixes.

Too many listed in there...

Opposite of me then. Drove a friend's P38 with the straight 6 diesel (manual) and didn't like it (didn't find it very torquey and had to rev the nuts off it to do anything). Don't like the Nissan straight 6 in the 6x6 either. That's hopefully being swapped out for a 6.2 (probably) or 6.5 (maybe) V8 diesel .

More work but the TDV8 setup (6HP26X and Magna Steyr DD295 transfer box) does have the front prop to the left hand side and the rear is more or less central. So at least the correct orientation for a P38. Here's a picture looking forwards towards the engine bay under a TDV8. Front prop you can see is to the left off the sump whilst the rear is just visible in the dark above the earth strap and above the insulation. Remember this was fully independent suspension so the front and rear props don't really move with respect to the vehicle.

I've got a feeling I've seen somewhere an adapter for (I think) the 5HP to LT230. With regards to the 6HP I think (online research only, never took one out when I had the TDV8) there is a subtle difference between the 6HP26 and the 6HP26X as fitted behind the 4.2 supercharged and 3.6 TDV8s. The X suffix was to denote external 4WD and as such the rear of the box is built in such a way that you can easily bolt on an external transfer box. Where I'm not sure if there's a difference is it looks like the X version has an internal rather than the more classical external spline on the output shaft. Basically meaning that the transfer box then provides the shaft bit to slot inside the gearbox. It's I suppose a slightly nicer way around because it means you can have a thin adapter plate and a custom shaft that goes between, say, a 6HP26X and an LT230 without having to re-machine either the LT230 input gear or the gearbox output shaft.

Who cares about the silly body kit. What engine?

PM inbound

I've got a friend () down here who I suspect would probably be able to do it and knowing him for not a lot. He's popping over on Sunday to look at some work for me so if I remember I can ask the question. Certainly got the tools to do it - he skimmed the head of my sister's Td5 in a single pass on one of his smaller mills .

If it's of any interest I have a 4HP24 with transfer box (and controller as well I think) from a 4.6 sat not very far from a ferry terminal to Ireland... A friend was talking of doing the Atlantic Way at some point and I've never been to Ireland.

I think the first / main thing you'll want to narrow down is what you're trying to get out of it? Are you doing it for the engineering aspects or are you wanting to build to vehicle to use? Since you have your head screwed on correctly (or at least appear to) I think if you're trying to achieve the latter then you may be best off looking at "equivalent" builds that are proven. An extreme example but for example for building an off-road vehicle then you could use Ultra4 / Trophy Truck as a basis, i.e. if it survives that abuse then it's likely to survive the abuse you'd give it. But then you can apply your sensible hat and determine that a 4" chromoly reinforced trailing arm is likely to be overkill for a vehicle that doesn't exceed 10mph so perhaps better off looking at, say, a Defender as a basis for sizing components. If you're doing it more for the engineering aspects then from my brief knowledge of what goes on in equipment design it's mostly down to experience, rigorous testing and to a certain extent simulation these days. It may be worth seeing whether you can have a chat with people involved in this kind of stuff, @discomikey springs to mind and @RedLineMike (although the latter I suspect is build it as strong as possible because we're gonna break it at some point!). You could take a punt and phone up Caterham or Ricardo and see whether anyone's interested in a friendly chat. I've got a friend in Spain who works / used to work for Análisis y Simulación in Vitoria Gasteiz who loves nothing better than to sit down number crunching in Excel designing bikes. We built some data loggers and strain gauges built into the hubs of Formula 3000 cars so that they could record what was going on around circuits. Slightly scarily the logger could tell you how much your little finger was deflecting this solid block of aluminium. Got another friend who works for Ilmore Engineering who I suspect might be able to pass on some useful information about whether there's anything to read up on.

Fairly sure it's a tapered fitting so as long as its snug it shouldn't leak.

I have one of these sets https://www.screwfix.com/p/milwaukee-mixed-shockwave-bit-set-24-pieces For the first time ever, a few days ago, I wore out / broke a tip in 4 odd years of having the set. Ah just realised doesn't have the "driver" bit but I've got the Milwaukee 1/4" impact driver separately. The bits are good though, the little driver has actually managed to take off the odd wheel nut* too which is slightly ridiculous. They claim 226Nm from the updated model and unlike most cheaper ones I expect it'll deliver it. *most of the time I use the far more sensible 1500Nm impact... Although I see the current model is now closer to 2000Nm. It failed for the first time at undoing an M24 bolt on the neighbours topper last weekend. Mind you that I think that was more due to a not perfect fit on the spanner on the nut. It did dig a hole in the tarmac before the nut rounded off.

They're a small local outfit but I've yet to find anyone (even online) to better the price offered by Narberth Tyres here in Pembrokeshire when I've had tyres fitted. Might be worth a call just as a reference point? On the brand subject I've only had BFGs fitted to the Defender. Can't remember what it came with but when my sister sold her 90 I swapped wheels and tyres over. They were the original KOs, I then replaced them with two sets of KM2s which have covered about 100k between them, the last set went on about 30k ago. I've not yet managed to wear out the tread yet on a set. The KOs started sagging due to age, the first KM2s still have about 6-8mm of tread but due to a hard life offroading the sidewalls had got slashed to kingdom come. They're a painful lump to swallow but when I balance the mileage they achieve vs cost they work out the cheapest by a long way. I've driven a friends P38 with the same size (265/75R16) Cooper STT Pros on both on and off road. Off they were OK but really didn't get on with them on damp roads, felt loose as hell. There were a couple of brown seat moments and I wasn't pushing it hard at all. On the L322 I had everyone had ranted and raved over General Grabbers and at the time they were basically the only all terrain option I had. I don't think I covered 30k over two sets . Either they exploded offroad or the sidewalls cracked and collapsed. It's put me off General Tires completely. Goodyear then came out with the Duratrac Wranglers which were night and day, did about 40k on those before I sold the vehicle were much better off road too.