kiwi_110
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Posts posted by kiwi_110
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I've managed to install ARB lockers into 2 different 110's salisbury diffs without needing to distort their cases. If it is necessary, it can be done with a cargo strop around the axle tube and centre x-member tensioned up.
Ray.
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Those guys know their stuff, for sure. I suspect something has happened when you've put it back in the vehicle.
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Is the knocking more noticable when turning and can you tell if it's coming from the left or right of centre? Cound be a front CV joint failure. If it's more from the centre (I hope not) it may be an IRD problem...
Ray.
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PAS pump is on the drivers side of the engine as are other belt driven accessories like the Alternator, water pump, aircon pump. There is a single belt going around the pulleys for all the accessories and a tensioner that automatically keeps the appropriate tension on the belt. If the tensioner is stuffed or the belt too old, you may be getting slippage. Check the tech forum for details or download the RAVE manual.
Ray.
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1. With the handbrake on and gearbox in neutral and the t/case in Hi or Lo, jack up one front road wheel. If you can then turn that wheel, the centre diff is not engaged.
2. The linkage could be bent, disconnected, or not connected properly. You need to be having a gander at it.
3. See 2.
Did you strip and rebuild the G/box or T/case yourself?
Ray.
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Check your serpentine belt tension. The belt may be slipping on the PS pump at low revs.
Ray.
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I doubt it's supposed to look like that. If it's only like that when the engine is completely cold, like after sitting all night, then it might be because the hose has collapsed with the vacuum created as the PS fluid cooled and contracted. If it's like that when hot, you may be low on PS fluid. But either way, that would indicate a softening or breakdown of the host and I recommend it's replaced. You can do it yourself. The near end is a quick release fitting, the far end on to the PS gear nearest the firewall is a threaded fitting with an O-ring seal.
Ray.
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One of the Power Steering hoses. "HOSE ASSEMBLY - RETURN GEAR TO COOLER" (from MicroCat) Part number QEH000062.
Ray.
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Looking back at your original post, the diag tool you were trying to clear the fault code with clearly reported "Internal fault, replace SDM". Unless someone here knows for sure, it's only a guess that SDM = DCU. You may need to see the handbook for the diag tool you were using to find out what it means by SDM. Also, some tools other than TestBook, aren't able to communicate with all the controllers in a vehicle and only partially support some of the controller features. It might be worth trying to find another tool that might be able to do more with the SRS controller than your current tool.
It's possible to fix an unknown fault without realising it, just by re-seating plugs, wiggling wires etc. If that's been the case, then after 40 cycles, the error will clear in the DCU. Also a fault may be so intermittent, that you get over 40 cycles before it happens again.
I'm afraid it's a tricky one and I'm sorry I can't be more help. I have a hawkeye tool, but there's a large body of water in the way...
As a last resort, and you didn't get this from me, if you were prepared to drive it with the Airbags disabled, you could follow the guidelines for making the SRS system "safe" and disconnect the SRS lamp.
Ray.
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Yes, according to the Rave info that Western put up, the DCU is responsible for deploying the Airbags and Pre-tensioners, so without a fully functioning DCU, they are inoperative. However, tampering or short circuiting may cause them to be deployed so be careful.
The way that Rave info reads, it implies that the DCU cannot trigger one restraint type without the other, it triggers both Airbags and Pre-tensioners at the same time. Did your Airbags deploy? If they did not then that could mean the crash was not sufficiently bad for the DCU to act. The DCU could be OK but is seeing another undocumented issue that is causing the DCU to hold the SRS lamp on. Also note that an intermittent fault may clear after 40 drive cycles without it recurring.
Ray.
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Your centre diff can be rebuilt. You need this sort of stuff:
You've ground up one or more of the 4 cupped thrust washers (lower l/h in pic) so at least one of your 4 side gears, also pictured, is now running directly against the inside of the diff carrier, steel on steel. Less of an issue when your diff is locked because the side gears don't move then. When unlocked, they spin to transfer the difference between front and rear prop-shaft rpm.
You might also end up needing a new pair of cross-shafts which the side gears go on:
Some of the LT230 Gasket Kits come with the thrust washers in them and input/output shaft seals etc so you might get away with just a gasket kit if your side gears etc are not munted.
Happy travels, Ray.
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I replaced a broken front short shaft last Christmas with a Bearmach, I think they're fine.
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I think your version of the LT-230 Transfer Case is not fitted with the centre diff-lock. You would have to fit an earlier LT-230 and shift levers. Even then, it may confuse the traction control and cause other issues. I think D2 owners are supposed to have faith in the traction control, trust it to apply braking to a spinning wheel or wheels to force power to the others.
Ray.
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There's a Loctite product, 660 Quick Metal, that you smear on bearing shells that have flogged out their seats before pressing them in. It will take-up 0.5mm of play, sets hard, but will release in a press. I would try that before springing for a new prop. Just make sure your cups and seats mating surfaces are cleaned with a solvent and dry befiore you apply the 660 and press them back in.
I've used it successfuly on various applications like yours. Here's a link to the spec sheet: http://www.loctite.sg/sea/content_data/93755_Loctite_660_Quick_Metal_Retaining_Compound.pdf
Ray.
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With the back wheels on the hard, and the front prop off, the centre diff is getting a work-out. The side gears are working to transfer all the power to the front flange. Could be that the clicking is due to damage inside the centre differential, perhaps a broken cross shaft or missing teeth. Unless you dissassembled the differential carrier itself, you would not know.
Does your model have a centre differential lock? If it does, try a short drive (on gravel or loose surface preferably) with the diff lock engaged and see if the clicking stops. Locking the diff stops all differential action through the side gears in the internals of the diff and the front and rear outputs then rotate as one. If the clicking is not evident with the diff locked, I suspect the issue is almost certainly internal to the centre differential unit.
Ray.
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We are talking about Colombia right? Please don't take offence Carlos but I reckon as soon as that thing senses large quantities of illegal substances being loaded in the back, it imobilises the truck and calls the feds...
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You will definately need:
1. Gear-Intermediate Shaft 1.4:1
2. Gear-High Output 1.4:1
And you might need:
3. Gear-mainshaft (that has the right number of teeth and mesh-width to match item1, if your current one is wrong.)
Those will all be dependant on the T/Case serial number. You could also be doing intermediate shaft bearings, new crush spacer etc while you're in there but you don't have to... This site can help a bit too, they have plenty of pictures and details of the parts including number of teeth and T/Case identifiers. http://www.shop4autoparts.net/Defender/Gearbox/Transfer-Box/Gears-&-shafts?filter_action=3&filter_value=4
Ray.
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Ok, good, that's clear thanks, then you are on the right track with the LT77/LT230 and 1.410 conversion.
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Carlos, can you be a bit clearer about the issue?
Is it...
1. like you have to keep dropping back into 3rd or lower every time there's a hill (overgeared)
or
2. it roars up every thing in 4th easily and you hardly ever have to change down into 3rd? (undergeared)
Ray.
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Is he still using the series gearbox? I thought you were working with the LT77 (5-speed) from the Disco as well as the LT230 T/Case?
4th gear in the series box is direct drive, as is 4th in the LT77. If he's on standard 750 x 16 tyres, 4.1 diffs, and l.22 T/Case, then at 90 KPH, the motor is doing about 3100 rpm. The nissan should rev freely up to almost 4000. If it's lugging, then dropping to 1.410 at the T/Case and keeping the series GBox it will be reving at 3600 to maintain 90 KPH.
If he uses the LT77, it will do that in 4th, and when he pops into 5th on the highway (if you have them!) the revs will come back to 2800. That should give him some power in 4th and nice overdrive for cruising in 5th.
Ray.
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When you say "sluggish one in off-road", are you talking about serious off-road, and he's already using low-ratio? Because a change from 1.22 to 1.410 will not change low-ratio.
If it's sluggish in high-ratio, then yes, going to 1.410 will help. Check the serial number prefix (36D, 41D, 42D ??) of your LT230 transfer case because there were a couple of different main shaft (input shaft) configurations (26, 28 or 38 teeth) and that will determine which components you need for the conversion.
Use the Ashcroft site.http://www.ashcroft-...d&productId=176
Ray.
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can cause catastrophic damage to your drive train in just a few miles.
Which is why I say all FIVE tyres.... If you have to use your spare and it's in way better condition than your others, you can still cause some damage. Proper tyre switching at regular intervals (oil changes) should keep all five within the same degree of wear.
Ray.
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I don't know what the plastic tie indicates but ANR1415 is correct for your VIN according to Microcat.
Ray.
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How many miles has the vehicle done and has the VCU been replaced at all? Could be starting to bind up. Slippage and a "pulling back feeling" from the rear during slow speed turns can be indicative of impending VCU seizure.
Ray.
LT85 - 2.8 Isuzu Clutch problem
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
The clutch plate I'm using between my FD-35 and LT-85 is a mitsubishi one but I would not recommend it, the anti-rattle dampers are weak and she's a very noisey unit at idle.
Ray.