DDO173

Every now and again when I'm pulling up to stop in my Discovery 300 Tdi the ABS kick in when the conditions nor the braking harshness any anywhere near the levels that warrant it. The only consistency I seem to have noticed is that its usually when im turning onto my drive and have the wheel hard over to pull up in front of my garage. I did however test it on a quiet road at the weekend in a straight line and under moderate braking it kicked in then as well. Anyone else have similar symptoms or know why this is happening?

Moderators, title of post should read "Discovery Cancelling Indicators" - a frozen computer momement when typing. Could you please ammend

Hands up who has a 300 series Discovery with indicators that dont cancel.... OK hands up who has found the solution to fix this common fault.... because until now I had searched all over without finding an easy way. Well I decided enough was enough and had the wheel of a second time to investigate. For those of you with the fault but are unaware of its cause: on the back of the steering wheel is a plastic collar, originally it had a plastic lug that sticks up and catches a correspoing lug on the smaller indicator cancelling wheel. It is the fist lug that breaks off as it was never really made of much. I had hoped to someway build this back up with something but when you see it, there is nothing much left to fix to in most cases. So instead of building up something coaxially I made my own lug perpendicular to the axis, out of an m3x5 hex spacer (PCB type); although any threaded fixing of simialr dimensions could be used, like an M3x10 screw with a few nuts put on first. Drilling and tapping: on the side of the metal boss (with the splines and taper) inline with the top of the steering wheel measure 5mm down from the edge of the boss then with a 2.5mm drill bit clamped quite far out in the chuck (otherwise it fouls on the steering wheel plastic) drill through the wall of the boss going carefully so as not to make too much burr when you break through the inside wall. once through clean off any bur inside with a suitable file, otherwise the taper with struggle to grip properly. The tap out to M3 and screw in your pillar/substitute. When i was happy i'd got it all right with a trial fit i put some lock-tight on the threads to make sure it stays. reassemble back onto the column and your done! Can post pics, if people wish to see.

Having just replaced the radius arm bushes with polyurethane ones I found the large nylock nuts done up all the way to he end of their threads. As they are nylocks compressing a soft material torque figures have no place on this fixing.

Thanks for the Offer but I have already got it and read over several times before beginning. All seems fairly straight forward If you possess the hundreds of pounts wsorth of specialist LR tools. I'm usually a big advocate of where there's a will theres a way but this is proving tricky.

So reviving an old topic.... I'm currently in the process of stripping down a 'supposedly recon' gearbox for my disco as the old 1 has got a bit notchy. I am faced with a bit of a dilema. Most of my dealings with Land Rovers have been of the series variety and I have rebuild quite a few series 1/2/3 gearboxes in my time (and as such know them like the back of my hand) - they are easy and can be stripped down in a couple of hours. Coming to the R380 I have found it much more difficult to start with although a I have a workshop kitted out with some specialist tooling more than the average, nothing is proving to be simple. Anyway, my plan was, as this was reputedly reco,n it would need very few items replacing and I would just check it over and replace the seals where necessary for piece of mind. First impressions are that the syncro/baulk rings looks slightly worn on the outer teeth although I havnt finished fully stripping it and inspecting all. What I'm after is a bit of advice of how to next proceed. Am I likely to get away with a set of syncro rings at a minimum or if any more items are required through unavoidable damage on dissasembly or otherwise is it going to be more cost effective to buy a complete rebuild kit circa £180??? A few pointers would be very helpful.