DDO173

Valeo are OE clutches, AP Drivline are the same as Borg and Beck just in different boxes as AP acquired Borg and Beck some time ago. All as good as each other really. Would go for blue box parts no matter how tempting the price is as you dont want to be doing it again soon.

Could be the Nylon socket that grips the ball at the base of the gear stick has cracked or deformed. Incidentally this common fault is covered in the Workshop section of this months LRO mag.

Can they really take 10 degrees!? I find that quite surprising. I managed to get mine to run really nicely now, power wise and that was almost bang on the timing mark (9.5mm drill bit). Still hunts a little at idle so my suspicion is turning back to injector nozzles...

Double cardans become a CV joint to eliminate phase vibration in on a standard UJ at large angles. So with that much lift It would be a good idea to fit I think!

.....Dont forget to put you foot on the clutch ASWELL with it in gear!

Not from my own vehicle but upon visiting my local friendly mechanic today, he had a TD5 110 utility in for a clutch change. Then he showed me the clutch they took out.... It still just about drove apparenty! Anyone seen one this worn?

I have no suspicions of fuel contamination/air ingress. Adjusted the vernier pulley empirically (advance) today and at first it was down on power when I went for a drive and slowm to pick up. Adjusted it again (advance) was very close to the limit of the adjustment anyway and that was awful when i started it up, very clattery. So backed right off and did a couple more advances a bit at a time - now its a lot better and pokier!

Checking the timing is a piece of cake, all you need is a 10mm spanner/socket and a 9.5mm drill bit. I know as I've just done mine and it wasn't exactly out. Out of principal though I went through the motions of slackening off the vernier pulley and realligned so I could get the drill in. However now it hunts more than it did before, even when warmed up!

Yep, mine does the same! Will be checking my timing tomorrow night.

I've had a similar problem with mine since I bought it. Idle was set a little higher by the PO to compensate I think, but If I set the idle to a satisfactory level (750-800 rpm) once the engine is warm, then next day from a complete cold start she runs very rough and low idle for a little while (as per the first posts described symptoms). I had put it down to the injector nozzles being worn, and the fuel was not atomising and burning fully when cold and hence the usual puff of black smoke on startup. ian_s I support what you say as the timing could be slightly out. I beleive It has not long had a new cambelt as the timing cover gasket was clean where is sticks out looking like it has freshly been done. I may try adjusting the timing using the injector pump 3 adjustment screws - are we thinking too far advanced? If so the pump needs rotating a bit anticlockwise on its adjustment screws?

I fitted a full set of RRC police spec springs to my disco. Only the rears have a different spring rate to standard disco ones. The police spec springs have a spring rate of 170 lbs/inch, where as standard disco springs have a dual rate of 155/215 lbs/inch; so they are between the 2 dual rates. Ride wise they are great when coupled with good dampers, but I have not had it fully loaded yet. Height wise, it brought mine up by about 20mm but it was sitting low already so I guess you will only gain 10mm over standard at absolute best, so hardly a lift. Useful resourch on springs here: http://members.shaw.ca/jbarge/springinfo.html

I'm going to be using some of the 'easy-on' stuff in the coming months on mine so would be interested to see how you get on if you go down that route. I'm plannign to get the pack containg sills, A and B pillar bottoms for both sides and 2 front inner wings.

If air had been drawn into the hydraulic clutch system over a period of time and then you replaced the clutch for a new 1, it may have been sufficient with the air compression to disengage the old 1 but not the new 1 with its thicked friction plate. Try a bleed it cant do any harm and if you do it enough you will flush the old fluid out and replace with new which is never a bad thing.

LT230 (early suffix) although pretty much all revesions of the LT230 are interchangable.

Have you replaced the clutch as part of this gearbox change operation, if so did you use a clutch plate alignment tool, if you didnt there isn't a snowball's chance of it mating up. Also you will find it a lot easier fitting the gearbox without transfer box first as this removes the off centre weight wanting to twist it all the time while you are getting the studs to line up.

The EGR and non EGR spindles are different (ask me how I know!) I replaced all the parts you have listed and refitted the original spindal as it wasn't that worn - just the Bush and o-ring causing the leak on mine. Sorry I don't know the correct part # but good luck! This is a job I never wish to do again as it is incredibly getting all the pump internal linkages and levers lined up especially when its all shrouded by an AC pump...

Cheap?!! Parafin costs more per litre than petrol/diesel and is basically a by product/less refined version of gasoline. Criminal it is!

Have rebuilt 3 transfer boxes in the last couple of months so its quite fresh in my mind. As BogMonster says the collar that holds the sqaure drive/plastic gear will come out once the transducer is removed by putting a screwdriver under the outer lip and levering it out, the only resistance should be the O-ring but if its been in there a while without being disturbed in may be a bit stiffer with crud build up. It may be possible that if the original transducer had seized in some way it may have restricted the drive member and stripped the plastic teeth (just a hunch). If you want to check the worm drive collar inside the housing, that just unbolts off the back of the transfer box once the prop and handbrake is disconnected.

I would suggest jacking a rear wheel up, then with the sensor removed get someone to spin the wheel (transfer box in neutral to reduce drag) then see if the square drive on the rear output housing rotates freely and smoothly. If it does I would then look at the voltage regulator as I have heard this can cause similar symptoms.

Some photos as promised - sorry it took a while was 1 of those 'roundtuit' jobs doing the next 1 for a mate.

My Discovery has returned with a fault that cured itself a couple of weeks after I bought it. When the ignition is on I can operate the internal heater blower controls as normal on all settings up to 4. However if I leave the fan runnong (anything but 0) and turn the ignition off it contrinue to blow, but then can be turned off manually. As I said before it had this when I first got the car several months ago but the problem went away before I got chance to investigate further. There is every chance it may go again before I can solve it properly, but my guess is that its a relay somewhere. As the AC relay b (behind the kick panel near the accelerator) was knackered due to water running down the A pillar my thoughts are the problem may eminate from there - but has anyone any other ideas?

I have some similar symptoms of what your experiencing. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=64656&st=0&p=558739entry558739 I've bought swivel overhaul kits to do my front this weekend - will post back if I find anything obvious and if its cured it.

Fair point scrumps, I wasnt aware the part/repair kit was available let alone the part number. However after have a quick look around the net at the usual suppliers it seems to come in at about £40. My repair took me about the same time and cost me next to nowt. I'm not advocating 1 way or another just the options are there now.

Easiest way if the vehicle is scrapper is to cut the slam panel out between the headlights. With the engie strapped up with a 3 point fixing on a crane (2 at the front eaither side and 1 wrapped round the gearbox bellhousing) disconnect all propshafts and engine/g'box mounts and remove completely out the way. You can also unbolt the selector housing from the top of the box (once you have removed the tunel trim) to give you a bit more clearance on the tunnel but its not essential. Then remove the gearbox crossmember, support with a trollay jack inline with the vehicle and drop it down to the floor. Then slowly extract the lot forward and upwards at an angle. Done this many times before and its by far the easiest way.

I'm planning to overhaul my front hubs soon anyway to cure the usual swivel leak. Mine has stopped leaking now so it must be out of oil! The top swivel pin with sensor holder comes with the rebuild kit so if there was any float previously it should be eliminated/made better.