TheKeymeister
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Posts posted by TheKeymeister
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I've finally got round to doing the speedo this week - converted my 200tdi to the td5 warning light panel about a year ago now. I've spent the last few nights preparing the wiring and put it all in this afternoon, on the test drive the speedo was even more wibbly wobbly than before, and about 10-15mph under!
Took the transducer out, the square drive bit had totally snapped off, and it turns out it was not sitting square - with the retaining bolt done up, it was pulling in at an angle which I didn't realise before. Has anyone else had this trouble? I suspect it'll need a washer or something behind the hole in the transducer for the retaining bolt so it sits square, then the whole lot will line up and hopefully it won't happen again. It was a legit version, not a cheap copy, but I've had it for a year or two now waiting to be fitted so no chance of returning it.
Is the transducer td5 specific or is it also fitted to the puma by any chance?
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Sounds exactly like the ones in the defenders at work for the 3.9kg gas bottles, is it ex utilities by any chance?
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I had a feeling it was 65nm or 48 ft lbs but haven't got the book with me to confirm, I remember it being easier to set it to the ft lbs on my torque wrench as it went up in increments of 2.
PS- a quick google confirms what I thought, well impressed with that for memory!
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Forgive me if I am wrong, but you did replace both parts of the bearings? i.e. the inner races as well?
I've known people to just change the outer race and cage part to save time and this then results in a knackered bearing alarmingly quickly.
Both parts on both bearings definitely changed, old races knocked out with a bead breaker and a 'special tool' made on the lathe for knocking the new ones in
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The flange has been fitted flush to the hub face...? just thinking it could be an alignment issue, I presume you've got some grease on the splines, if they're getting that hot I'd be putting some high temp grease in that area...
Thinking on the same lines of alignment, can you check the quality of the part, i.e have the female splines been machined perpendicular to the mating face?
The only other thing I'd be doing was, take it for a run so its hot, then take the wheel off and have a good feel of the hub see if the heat is being conducted from something else.
If you have changed the wheel bearings also I'd be going back through the steps you took to make sure everything is fine there. you can easily rule the HD drive flanges out by taking them off and putting the original ones back on for a bit.
Flange is definitely flush, bolts torqued up as per the book with new bolts, and everything greased up. I will have to have it off again to check if its a quality issue, and will have another set for comparison by then. Good idea on taking it for a run and having the wheel off - got a bit of a run planned for the weekend so will try that then.
Putting the standard flanges back on would probably introduce more heat - there was a good transmission clank when taking up drive before I changed the flanges and shafts as both parts were well worn. The old flanges didn't fit too snugly in the new half shafts either.
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It's a possibility - but the wheel is cold, it's literally just the flange that is hot, and I wouldn't usually expect both to be doing it. When we had it apart the hub nuts weren't as hot as the flange so I do suspect it's something other than the bearings, I wonder if the metal they're made of is just better at conducting heat or something stupid.
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I've currently got 3 air horns and a compressor bolted to the inner wing behind the n/s headlight, plenty of room for messing around there. They are a bit too high pitched though, and I need to move them elsewhere as I've got a washer bottle to go in that space, so I'm looking for a new setup and a new place to put them as well...
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Following on from my last thread, after changing my rear wheel bearings at the weekend (Defender 110 200tdi, 24 spline axles), I noticed the drive flanges were hot to the touch at the rear, but not at the front. The fronts are standard, and the rears are HD ones from Paddocks fitted October last year, complete with new half shafts. I had it apart today and re adjusted the bearings, slackening them off a shade, and I've just put it back together and driven about 20 miles and they're still hot on the back but not so hot on the front!
Is this possibly a 'feature' of the HD drive flanges? I haven't done a touch test before changing the bearings, so don't know if it was like it before. Or have I really cocked up somehow?! I've hopefully got a set of HD flanges coming for the front this week, so should be able to prove it one way or the other, but just wondered if anyone else had noticed this.
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I was told to, get along screw driver or something similar, and when half shaft is out, gently knock the seal around so it's side on then get a long bit of wire coat hanger put a hook in the end and fish the seal out pulling it through the axle/ half shaft hole! Hope this helps ted.
That's exactly the sort of answer I was looking for! Many thanks!
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I'm not overly fussed either way, it's just that I've got one side where the seal is letting oil migrate and the other side isn't. I'd have liked to have one or the other but hey ho if there's no easy way to do it it'll stay like that. It came standard with discs so can't even use that as an excuse!
The side that was letting oil through didn't let much out into the outside world, so I'm not overly worried about that. That side definitely had a severely knackered bearing that would have been much worse should it not have been full of oil!
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I replaced both rear wheel bearings on my 110 Defender today (200tdi, but with 24 spline axles factory fitted). I had planned on converting to oil lubrication by removing the relevant seal but forgot to order the stub axle to axle tube gaskets, and the book said reusing them wasn't an option. Have put in the better RTC3511 seals behind the bearing as I knew about that part. As it was quite a game to remove the calipers etc, and severely interfered with a planned trip to the pub, I don't fancy a total disassembly again to remove a seal.
I've read about 'damaging' this seal to allow oil in, is this possible without too much disassembly? Only the nearside needs to be done, the offside seal had already failed as the bearing was well covered in EP90, which was fortunate as it was totally knackered. From the diagram it looks like possibly turning the half shafts round would give the end of the shaft contact with the seal, but smashing it apart with a hammer seems a bit pikey even for me. Is there a better idea, the alternative is to leave it be and hope the seal allows oil in on its own, but the other side only decided to fail when the wheel bearing started to let go so I'm not hopeful.
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Decided to go out and play tonight, as the duff connections were just outside the grommet at the back of the chassis I chopped it and pulled it all through the front, didn't bother disconnecting it from the bulkhead. Didn't have to go back too far to get non crumbly green cable, about an inch or so. Prepared the ends ready for jointing to the other end with some proper solder containing lead, sorted out a small bit of chafing, wrapped the lot in vinyl mastic tape and then stuffed it into split flexible conduit.
Out of interest, what is the wire coming out of the loom just before it enters the chassis by the bulkhead, plugging into a sensor on the gearbox? This is on a 1994 110 200tdi station wagon (not 300tdi as I said before) My end goal is to track down the reverse switch wiring as I'm putting a reversing camera in, but as it's just one wire I don't think I'm that lucky!
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Finally found it yesterday! Have been running with Fuse 1 out and living without horn, flash and fog lights for a while, but while doing something else by the rear crossmember I saw a big green lump just where it exits the chassis, when I unwrapped the many layers of tape, I found 13 red straight joint crimps, lots of green crumbly nastiness, and lots of potential for shorting out. I suspect whoever changed the rear crossmember previously went for the easy way out and chopped it then jointed back up and hoped for the best...
The problem now is, I don't think there is enough cable to get on to do a decent joint between the fault and where it enters the chassis. My plan at the moment is to hopefully withdraw the loom from the chassis, re joint the cables and insert pieces if need be to replace the dodgy bits, and run the loom outside of the chassis in some split conduit (of which I have lots). Once it's out of the chassis I'll open it up and check for damage etc before joining, rewrapping, and putting it in the conduit.
Couple of questions regarding this, where does the loom enter the chassis up front? Are there any other exit points, or is it just front to back? I suspect the easiest way to remove it will be to pull it out of the front, as there's no problem chopping it at the back where my big problem is....
P.s. I'd love to go and buy a whole new loom, but they are a bit expensive for me if I can make this repair work first...
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Plates arrived at last, though not cut for the Ariel hole on os wing .
Do I cut hole in black powder coated plate, or relocate the Ariel on the roof?
I had the same dilemma, and decided to cut the black plate, just about got it right.
Ran a bit of silicone along the bottom, and round all the rivet holes. The Defenders at work all have the chequer plate sealed round the edges as well, and they're all fitted by an (allegedly) professional company. I didn't do it like that as I only had white silicone and it'd look carp...but I will tidy it up when I get hold of some black.
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Have done much searching and googling to no avail, so can anyone tell me what this 4 pin connector lurking behind the radio does on my 94 110 station wagon? I've seen pics that show other people have this too, and it was also unused. It doesn't seem to have any connection to live or earth, and I've identified the "optional extra" connectors with switched and unswitched fused and unfused live feeds. I've been having a big purge on redundant wiring to try and help eliminate my intermittent brake light issue, and removed lots so far. I know this is causing no harm, but any ideas what its meant to be for?
Here it is...
The colours are...2 thick wires brown and brown/orange, and 2 thin wires brown and brown/grey
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I seem to have an intermittent fault on the brake light circuit on my 1994 Defender 110 station wagon (300tdi). It started off as one brake light not working, dead incoming supply, and it turned out someone had replaced the connection from the switch in speaker wire
I reconnected the old circuit and all seemed OK. This was in between another project (TD5 instrument panel) where I'd managed to blow fuse 1 (20A - Aux, horn, interior light, flash) by connecting the clock up wrong. After putting it right and replacing the fuse, I noticed the brake lights would flicker on and off on their own, and it stopped doing this when fuse 1 was pulled. At the moment I'm running without fuse 1 in, and the brake lights are fine, but obviously I have no horn, flasher, clock, etc. Rather than run a new brake light circuit, I would prefer to repair the fault so it doesn't cause other problems later on. My usual method of clearing faults won't work here (keep putting bigger fuses in until it blows clear
) Does anyone have any suggestions of where I should look for the fault, i.e. where the two circuits run together, before I attempt to dismantle the whole dashboard or something like that. Thanks in advance
I reconnected the old circuit and all seemed OK. This was in between another project (TD5 instrument panel) where I'd managed to blow fuse 1 (20A - Aux, horn, interior light, flash) by connecting the clock up wrong. After putting it right and replacing the fuse, I noticed the brake lights would flicker on and off on their own, and it stopped doing this when fuse 1 was pulled. 
) Does anyone have any suggestions of where I should look for the fault, i.e. where the two circuits run together, before I attempt to dismantle the whole dashboard or something like that.
wibbly wobbly speedo
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
The one in that diagram looks a lot different to the one I have, which looks like this....
The one in that diagram actually looks like the Disco version...like this...
I'll slide under one of the puma defenders at work on Monday and see whats fitted...if its compatible there may be a swap done...