TheKeymeister

I've got the later ones, but (unless I'm missing something) the bushes on them are too big to fit in the chassis mounts, and the bushes from the early arms are too small for the threaded bit of the later arms to pass through

I've got an off roader hybrid truck based on a 1974 Range Rover Classic... The front axle was totally knackered so we set about fitting a discovery one that was in stock & fully rebuilt and painted. Unfortunately we then realised the radius arms are different, with the Disco ones being the later, thicker ones, and the original ones being the thinner type. The original bushes were too small for the new arms, and the new bushes were too big for the chassis mounts. The 'bodge' to get it rolling across the yard again was to file/grind down the newer bushes to get them to fit (ish) into the chassis mount, but I need a more permanent solution. Any thoughts on this? There must be a better way surely! Can I use the early radius arms in the newer axle and space them out with something, if so what should I be using to space it. This all happened many months ago now and caused it to get left in a corner, and I've had a sudden burst of enthusiasm again which is rare.

Forgot to add, I did a bit of investigation around the function of the air temperature sensors... With the MAF unplugged and the IAT sensor at the front plugged in, I got the following codes: P0100 Air flow meter short circuit to ground or open load P0110 Air Temperature Sensor Signal out of range With the MAF plugged in and the IAT sensor at the front unplugged, I got this code: P1110 No text allocated for this code With the MAF and IAT sensor at the front both plugged in, I got no codes. The Hawkeye I was using does not display any live data from the front IAT sensor so unless the Hawkeye isn't clever enough to see what it does, who knows what its function is!

When I got the Freelander about 2 months back I did a full service replacing all fluids but managed to round off the gearbox filler plug. The plan was to try and free it off with a hammer and chisel when I got round to it. Since then I have noticed the reverse light switch has failed, can I fill the gearbox via the reverse switch hole instead of trying to remove the rounded filler plug? I have got an electric oil pump to get it in, and I can measure the required amount of oil using the measuring jug from the kitchen

Thought I'd better report back with the results... I bought the Pierburg version, fitted it, and it was awful. Flat up to 2500rpm and dangerous pulling away. I read another post that said his did the same and sorted itself out after 100 miles, but that didn't happen, tried disconnecting battery to 'reset' ECU values, but no, still exactly the same. Fortunately I was able to return the unit for a refund. The correct Bosch sensor arrived this morning so I will be fitting it tomorrow morning

Thanks for the replies, A bit more research reveals Pierburg now manufacture a drop in replacement that doesn't require any nonsense to fix it, part number is 7.22684.11.0, and their site confirms it is compatible with a Freelander Td4 and lists MHK101130 as an equivalent part number which all stacks up, see here - https://onlineshop.ms-motorservice.com/msi/MSICD?lang=E&page=showLUVGDetail&ksnr=7.22684.11.0&stacklevel=0&hisdir=fwd The dilemma is, the Bosch one is only about a tenner more expensive, so I suppose it depends whether the Pierburg is indeed more robust or it's a bit of a selling tactic by the bloke who sells the magic boxes. A quick Google does turn up many threads from various different forums (not LR ones) bigging up the Pierburg, maybe I will take a punt. After changing the carb on my 2.8 Cortina from a Pierburg to a Weber, it seems wrong to 'upgrade' to a Pierburg item! I haven't got round to plugging the current failed MAF back in to see if it starts reading inlet air temp again, but I will find this out and report back either way, it does seem a bit coincidental though...

From the info gleaned from a Hawkeye, it appears the MAF sensor on my 2005 Td4 Freelander 1 is about knackered. No fault codes are present, but the live data shows a reading of 468mg/stroke at tickover, increasing to a whopping 505mg/stroke at 2500rpm. I've unplugged the MAF and checked again, which seems to make it start at a base value of 500mg/stroke increasing with rpm and it now runs much better than it did before. I have noticed whilst the MAF is unplugged, I have three fault codes:- P0100 Air flow meter short circuit to ground or open load (as expected) P0110 Air Temperature Sensor Signal out of range P1110 No text allocated for this code Live data also shows the inlet air temperature as a constant -40*C. I'm not sure if this has happened because the MAF is unplugged, as I also had a boost pipe split right next to the IAT sensor yesterday which covered everything in oil and the electrical connection may be suspect. I will tomorrow try and reconnect the MAF and see if the temperature sensor codes go away. I have tried to check RAVE to see how the IAT is wired up to the ECU but to no avail, I have an early version of RAVE which is from before the separate IAT sensor came in, and the only later version I can find of RAVE is for NAS vehicles and only shows the KV6 engine. I would be interested to know what this sensor does if it does not replace the sensor in the MAF per the previous vehicles. I've done a bit of reading and it seems a Pierburg MAF is a better replacement than the original Bosch but it does not include an IAT sensor so needs an additional box of tricks (Synergy tuning box) to make it work. I am wondering if this still applies to my vehicle as it has a separate IAT sensor in the intercooler pipe at the front of the engine. I could do without the additional expense of a Synergy box at the moment if possible, but at the same time I don't want to spend pennies on a cheap eBay sensor that will last a month, so ideally I would like to fit the Pierburg if it is indeed a more robust solution. Many thanks in advance for any advice

The front mounting is straight forward - it bolts straight to the bulkhead bolt. There's a bracket mid way that bolts to the steel plate which I then had to adapt to fit round a bracket on the Landy, and it was the same further back. I believe it's exacerbated because mine is a 110 CSW. I'll try and get some pictures to show what I mean, however it will show my shocking bodgework to get the bloody things on

Fortunately mine look nothing like that on the inside - there's no trim at all in the back section as its ex AA and there was originally a load of racking there. It's not my only motor so I'll go for stripping it down and see what they're like when off. Not sure who I can get to weld the carp section up as my mate who used to do all that sort of stuff for me isn't around any more Fingers crossed they are salvageable at all first. Struggling to think what else I could throw in other than the cappings if I'm honest, already got a galv front winch bumper and galv roof rack....hmm.... Anyway I'll try and get it stripped down when the weather is a bit better and see how we go from there

I honestly expected them to be normal steel, but considering all 5 doors have rotted out and the worst the cappings have got is that small patch, they either used very good paint or did something else! It did go through special vehicles and there are a few obscurities, but who knows. Any thoughts on how to repair them?

Having just bought a cartridge for my 200tdi (which turned out to be the wrong one, got a 300 one!) I can confirm all I got was a cartridge - no new gaskets, o-rings, retaining brackets, nuts, bolts, studs, or anything else you'd need when changing the cartridge....

I bought a set for my 110 csw from Mill Services, with the monster bar fitted to act as a step, quality is spot on but fitting was an absolute nightmare, they came with 4 pieces of steel plate and I spent ages cutting and messing about until they fitted properly. I know nothing should be expected to be 100% bolt-on on a Land Rover but I expected slightly better for the money. Here's a picture showing them fitted....

Looking at changing the side panels on my 110 sw to van sides (it has some nasty non standard leaky windows at the minute) and feel I should pay some attention to the cappings at the same time. There's a slightly rusty patch on one of them on the outside, and an even smaller one on the opposite side on the inside. Both look to be where something has hit it. There is no corrosion anywhere else on the cappings, and this is a 1994 model land rover, so I'm assuming/hoping they are galv. There is also some bubbling on the tub around the cappings. As they are in generally good condition other than the small patch, and considering the cost/scarcity of replacements, what is my best way forward to bring them up to snuff and preserve them? My welding skills are terrible but happy to outsource this if required. I've got some cold galv paint for what its worth and I'm going to be painting the whole landy anyway considering I'm changing the sides, all 5 doors and the bonnet! See attached photos Many thanks

Andys Landys on Binley industrial estate....seem to know their stuff Heard mixed reviews about Douglass Motors at Wolston Town and Country Land Rover in Cubbington, only ever used them for parts but they might do servicing too The garage at Marton always seem to have a couple of Landys knocking about as well Hope this helps....

I had a fault in my loom where the brake light feed was shorting to something permanently live and flickering on every so often, I found that when the rear crossmember had been replaced by a previous owner, they'd chopped it and re joined using red straight through crimps, which had let water in, corroded and shorted together.... I pulled the whole thing out from the bulkhead end, wrapped it in split plastic conduit, strapped it to the chassis out of the way of everything, this gave me enough length to cut back the corroded part and re join properly and heat shrink each core afterwards. It's been like that at least 18 months now and there's no problems at all - just a thought depending on where yours has gone faulty. Next step is to remove all the bullet connectors in each corner and either make them solid or replace with Econoseal as I'm going to the later style indicator/rear lamps anyway.