Bumpyride

have added a new speedo cable ( square drive at the instrument end and transfer box end) along with new clip at the transfer box end. However still no speed on the instruement, this did work perfectly before the rebuild, but i now get a clicking noise from the dashboard, as if the drive is turning in the cable but not engaging with the speedo. is there a gear or someting inside these that goes? A drawing or photo's would be great if anybody has them.

cheers for all your help, it turnned out well, the selector socket had slid off the shaft ( the grub screw again falling out) have repaired and added loctite.

cheers all

thanks for te hints will try on the 27th. If i need to move the truck, then am it is currently stuck in reverse. if i keep the clutch down when moving then should i do any damage to the gearbox? I haven't far to go and can keep speed to a min.

your right i forget myself it is an LT77.

it a R380 gearbox in a defender200tdi. to add before to the problem it seems like the selector mechanism has failed rather than the gearbox i would suspect.

In driving the loving restored machine, i lost 3 and 4th, then lost 2nd. and finally 1 and 5th. it is now stuck in reverse and won't come out. In additon the gear stick moves left/right up and down without any indication of a slot location for the gears. Any ideas?

I had a similar problem last month, although not following a off road session. the solution ( from the people at ashcroft) was to adjust the reverse gear selector on the right hand side of the gearbox. Cast spigot, with thread and locknut. However adjusted mine and reverse was ok, but after driving some distance have lost the forward gear so feel it could be a hit and miss affair,

Has anbody got a set of instructions on these drum brkaes. I think i'm seeing the brakes adjust up and down rather than in an out as noted in an earlier post, however there seems nothing obviously wrong with how they are positioned

Does anybody know the thread of the drum brakes retaining screw - this is the ones that secures the drum to the axle. Just paddocks want 5 shipping

Ah not much cooking today then. Just you wait (posisbly for a quite a while) by the time i've finished ill have removed and replaced every dam part.

Just for future infomation i have contacted the extremely helpful David Ashcroft an he has said that the problem will be the reverse gear plunger sticking, which requres the removal of the plate on the side of the gearbox turret (2*13mm headed blots), followed by removal of the plunger, a good clean and re-fitting. If anybody has experience of this job any handly hints are always appreciated

I enlisted the aid of an old friend to help with the engine electrics a while ago, he has wired the yellow wire direct from inigition to glow plugs, bypassing the glow plug relay i had brought. the engine starts fine and runs good. What do you think are the possible repercussions of this? As the glow plugs are only used to bring the compression chamber to temperature to intiate the combustion, after which the temeperature is adequate to produce combustion. Therefore i assume the glow plug relay just provides a lag on each plug depending upon which cylinder it is in, then after the first cycle of the engine it no longer heats up. So would i be right in thinking that the position the key in the inition barrel determins whether a current is able to pass to the lead to the glow plugs and this stops once the igiintion goes to the third click? my only concern is without the glow plug relay are my glas plugs constantly on? and are there anyother possible problems thanks a lots JDC

sorry didn't make that clear is the reverse spring/stop mentioned by Kiall The same as A: the reverse switch - ie stop due to limit of switch plunger. or B: the fifth gear adjustment- screw or C: neither? What i was wondering is there 2 adjustment options - 1 for fifth gear and also independantly for reverse gear. sorry for any confusion

in reference to the above adjustment of the rear brakes, i have been adjusting the "adjusting nut/cam" sorry to sound a bit thick, but am i trying to reduce the the movement required for the onset of braking as much as possible, thus removing the first wasted depression of the brake pedal?

sorry can i just check the reverse spring/stop mentioned by Kiall, is this the same as the fifth gear adjustment or is this a mistaken reference to the reversing switch. Or is it something different again.

ok have undown the reversing switch a turn or two, no effect, so removed completely still no effect. When moving the gear stick i can't actually move across enough to then be in a position to select a gear To note it is an LT77 gear box, (had one or two different engines in this one) where is the reversing switch spring adjustment? anybody have an experience with altering this? IF this fails to work does anybody has any possible causes, to note it had been working perfectly 5 mins before

Can anybody enlighten me on what i should be looking for and adjusting in the drum, everything looks OK. A few hopeful points would be greatly appreciated.

sorry haven't got a gear box R380 manual where is the spring stop located? If anybody has one then please can i have the link.

The clutch and gearbox have been working fine during the rebuild, however took it for a quick spin to test the brakes and have returned and can't select reverse gear. I would argue that the clutch is a bit heavy, but not impossible. Anybody know of thingsi should be checking prioir to taking the thing out again?

I isolated the rear brakes through the flexible and yes the was a marked dfference, the brake pedal was stiff on the first depress. i shall check the rear shoes tomorrow, once ive checked the forum for handy hints. thanks again.

Thanks a lot all, i shall try this weekend and see what happens.

many thanks hopefully that will stop the rattle

sorry has naybody any thoughts on this?

I have fitted a 200tdi to my 110, however think the down pipe connection from the turbo might have a fitting missing. As the pipe drops vertically there is a flange with two bolt holes in it, these appear to look like they would bolt to a fitting attached to the main engine block. There are two nearby holes on the engine block, but not on the same centers as the ones on the exhaust pipe so i presme there is a plate or something here. Does anybody know about this or better still do a quick picture of it for me. Thanks in advance