Bumpyride

thanks very much lads perfect A*

gents 200tdi 110 as the exhaust comes down from the engine block about 300 mm in the vertical direction there is a bracket (welded) on the down pipe, which appears to be at the same level at a tapped boss on the engine block - i presume these are suppose to attach to each other to reduce the vibration in the downpipe. Only problem is that it appears to require an intermediate bracket to joint the exhaust bracket and the boss on the engine - is this true? Also anybodt have any idea of the thread on the engine block? anybody has a copy of the parts for this section and illustration it would be much appreciated - or a phot for that matter. sorry if this is a bit hard to understand] many thanks

Not sure if it helps, but ive attempted a variety of schemes unfortantley all at once and so i have no real feel for which had the most effect. 1: panelled the backout - with ply wood - the cavity then filled with sleeping matts - to 60% of the depth of the void. 2: 6mm rubber matt lining all around the internal faces of the bulk head and footwells. 3: rubbber lining of the voids under seats - to be completed. 4: filled all cracks and holes with flexibile rubber sealant. I would certainly like to think it is quiter - however wishful thinking maybe present in view of the amount of work it's taken. Plan to fit an engine blanket (suggestions of a cheap supplier would be appreciated) - once done will measure the dba attenuation. agree with earlier comments, the load space needs to be covered if a hardtop, have tried the aformentioned rubber, but it made sliding things in a real mare. Have fitted series doors, with associated gaps around the frame now plus no door cards to reduce sound - think this is potentially another point to focus on. i have in professional capacity done a reasonable amount of work looking a soundproofing buildings and industrial plant, the killer is always noise leakage through, any hole, crack or joining of materials. So checking door seals, bulkhead holes etc will always limit the amount of success you have with any scheme. cheers hope this helps

guys i got a quote from the money supermarket - £380, fully comp. (110 hard top) from the coop or eco-insurance (some irony there!!) Then called sureterm, they quoted £420, however they are obviously keen for the work, as they asked me for the best i had so and i passed on the coop quote. Then they came back with £350. green laning included. Note i have supressed the mileage to 8000.

cheers guys for the response ill see how i get on

guys and girls Insuring the old beast (110 2.5tdi) has been off the road for a while so not up with the best insurance offers. Can you offer some suggestions - NFU won't because i'm too inner london many thanks

thanks very much guys - ill chech in the morrow

Sorry to be a pain - but guys do you think the pics below would get through an MOT?

Gents i think i probably know the answer to this, but whats the view do they need changing? looks like i had a tad over spray with the waxoyl!!! hopefully the pictures are visable cheers for your help guys

Bearings were done with the clutch if i recall correctly. However i agree that the clutch woudl provide a route of vibration through the drive train. Are there any other potential suspects?

Cheers - can i ask what clutch rattle is exactly and how to cure it. As a note i had in the rebuild replaced the clutch thanks again

Gents having read the numerous threads on poly vs OEM have decided on OEM - better the devil ou know etc. So having decided i have been after a full fitting explanation is there one? Regardless what tools will i need to get the new OEM bushes in? I am asuming through a mixture of fire, drilling and sawing i can remove the old ones. Also are the paddocks ones real OEM's? if not where else provides a good deal. cheers in advance

guys Bit of an odd one Engine hasn't really been running for a year. When starting and only at idle, quite a severe noise rattling after revving it goes away. When running after about 5-10mins, whilst stationary there appears to be a noise beyond the normal diesel rattle. It can not be heard from the engine bay, you only really notice it from under the vehicle it appears to be coming from the drive train. Upon further inspection you can feel a vibration running through the bell housing, gearbox, transfer box and handbrake. Has anybody got any ideas to what this maybe? If you need more info to come to a diagnostic them let me know

excellent thanks

cheers for that lads

excepted that you could speed things up, abiet with potential problems. However if i have a blockage of similar it won't help. Please any other thoughts

can i ask someone please to rmind me how the gutter roof bars that attach above and below the guttering stay fixed in place. thinking of making some, but can't recall how this bit was done. Is it achieved with an angled screw?

guys I have an intermittent problem with the 110, I would get a throbbing noise in the fuel lines. The general consensus was that it was a poorly lift pump, have changed this, however in bleeding the fuel system I haven't been able to get fuel up from the tank into the pump itself. been pumping the handle for about 5 mins. Just as a note how long of pumping with the lift lever is typically required to bleed the system if we assume the fuel has drained back to the tank? I ran out of tinkering time, but fairly confident the pump is sucking. shall check gain tonight Also have changed the fuel filter in case of blockage and added half a tank of diesel to make sure. If the lift pump is ok, what would your bets be on? block in fuel line itself ( has been left standing for 3 months)

been running the engine (2.5tdi) after a long period of in activity - however there is a pulsing whistling noise coming from the fuellines. It is intermitterant if i rev te egine hard then it goes away for a couple of minutes. The guage shows plenty of fuel, and the system was bled - Going to throw in morefuel tomorrow in case has anbody goany more ideas? Thanks inadvance

Have up till now been strggling with a cheap 2ton trolley jack, which really can't deal with lifting the whole of the rear of the truck from the offset diff, discovered when the jack toppled over. Also max lift height rules out using it more centrally in the axle casing or chassis However have struggled on with a mix of blocks of wood and axle stands placed at odd locations. This i assume is not how the more organised of us approach this. However think i need a more rigid slick solution Thus i going to invest in a trolley jack more up to the job - thus in the spirit of thrift, any suggestions and prices for a goodset up

I know this refers to a defender, however thought guys reading the series forum may have more experience with drum brakes. I have purchased new shoes, drums and adjuster kit, for the back axle (110, 1986 - 1987) - Have never done anything with drum brakes before. All seemed to be going well, however have made mistake of buying from britpart, the drums are a very close fit around the shoes - seems to be overcoe by varying the height the shoes sit at on the lower pivot (permament pivot - rather than later removable type). The issue surrounds the adjsuters (these are the two part ones with a securing bolt from the outer side of the backing plate into a threaded spogot. Once fitted with the shoes the adjusters seem to have more of a tedancy to push the shoe out (towards the outside of the truck) rather than making the daimeter of the shoes vary. Then after prolonged adjustment the securing screw starts to undo - this seems very bad so was going to lock tight this in. Has anybody seen this? can't work out if i'm doing something obviously wrong (which seems hard with the limited number of parts) - am using new springs as well. I have checked ive got the leading and trailing shoes in the correct order ( just to check - trailing ones - friction pad starts higher than the leading one?) Finally the drum securing screw paddocks sent is too large - were there two different sizes? An idoits guide to getting this right would be greatly appreciated. james

i have been trying to remove the steernig wheel to get better access to the dash. However the steernig wheel is well and truely stuck. I have made a pulled from 5mm thick angle, however in my efforts it has bent this. As a note the puller worked fine the two times it was used, however against my better judgement i had the guys at TLM landrovers do some work on it and, judging from the quality of their other work, it wouldn't be too admiss to sugesst they would have hammered it on with a sledge hammer if required. Anybody got any ideas, i can always treat myself to a "new" soft steering wheel if this one needs to be runied to remove. Of do i need a very industrial puller (pics of examples would be great) cheers guys

on the subject on the wires at the heating end,does anybody have any handy hints on an easy way to get the clipis to fit that secure th outside of the cable, have taken off multiple layers of skin trying to do this!!! cheers

I have purchased new shoes, drums and adjuster kit, for the back axle (110, 1986 - 1987) - Have never done anything with drum brakes before. All seemed to be going well, however have made mistake of buying from britpart, the drums are a very close fit, however not too much of a problem. The issue surrounds the adjsuters (these are the two part ones with a securing bolt from the outer side of the backing plate. Once fitted with the shoes the adjusters seem to have more of a tedancy to push the shoe out (towards the outside of the truck) rather than making the daimeter of the shoes vary. Then after prolonged adjustment the securing screw starts to undo - this seems very bad so was going to lock tight this in. Has anybody seen this? can't work out if i'm doing something obviously wrong (which seems hard with the limited number of parts) - am using new springs as well. I have checked ive got the leading and trailing shoes in the correct order ( just to check - trailing ones - friction pad starts higher than the leading one?) Finally the drum securing screw paddocks sent is too large - were there two different sizes?

i asked this question some time ago, it appears that my exhaust bracket won't stretch enough to allow it to be bolted to the threaded holes on the engine block. Or is there an intermediate bracket between the welded unit on the pipe and the block? from the two pictures it looks as though the brackets are different thus why it doesn't reach the bolt. I am planning to make a plate to fit accross this gap, however, what is the feeling on how much stress you can put on the downpipe? I am fitting a 200tdi into a 2.5n/a, for reference? please see photos