Bumpyride

Sorry for the delay Have tried the haynes test of pressing pedal down and then starting up and waiting for a downwards movement in the pedal as the vacumm builds up. and Yes you can fill this. Tried to test the non return valve, but found it impossible to get out (anybody know of any tricks) have tried levering out and mole grips. In If not started if i pump the pedal the hiss is there and it does harden up as though the vaccum is reduced. Does this not suggest the value is working correctly? Is it possible they are not bled properly - what wouldbe the symptoms of this? Spongey pedal?

I have been having a problem with my brakes (1987 defender - disks front pads rear) The brakes seem a little ineffective i have 1: replaced pipes were corroded already 2: new pistons and seals on calipers 3: new flexible pipes 4: flushed through brakes fluid and re-bled 5: new rear pistons When i get in engine off pedal goes to the floor with limited resitance. As soon as ive started and pump the pedal once or twice the pedal goes hard half way down. There is also a kind of whooshing noise when i first press the pedal. Is this normal? i'm possibly being parnoid and trying to compare the braking effectiness to a modern car however i can't help but feel there is something wrong There is only a limited list of things i still could replace - is the servo a possible area and what are it's usual symptoms of failure jim

sorry moose are you saying you can get the banjo fittings for the axles in B+Q?

Am i right in thinking that you mean Wynns Additives - Wynns Super Charge For Oil 425ml have yuo seen good effects?

cheers for that, didn't fancy the craddocks over priced one shot stuff

Thanks guys some nice jobs out there,

I'm thinking of getting the stereo up in the air along with the CB to avoid water damage, i have moved the fuse boxes to the rear bulkhead as well. I know this is not a new idea so was wondering if anybody had any pictures of their attempts to make the job easier? many thanks.

evening guys Just wanted to check what grease people are using, need to do the hub bearings and then all the grease nipples on prop shafts, ball joints etc. Do you use a standard one or different types dependant onn location?

Dear all I'm replacing the bretaher pipes to take them to the top of snorkel. I have although broekn the ring (assume this is called a banjo? ) that goes around the banjo bolt, i have be trying to buy them but have failed to located them with craddocks. Has anybody got a part number of know where i can get a couple? i guess they may come as part of the pipe, but have been tryign to avoid this route. many thanks jim

many thanks

I have been looking at replacing the swivel pins, i have seen a set on ebay for 5 quid, but they are QUINTON HAZELL BRAND are these to be avoided? The standard ones are about 15 quid.

thanks very much i shall have an attempt to download and test the old PC skills

does anybody know where i can lay my hands on exploded drawings and associated part numbers to cover the whole defender. I have the RAVE CD's but these don't always show all the details if my memory serves me correctly. In addition i have a 1986 110, which the 2 versions of rave i have brought don't appear to cover. A 200tdi engine section would also be beneficial. many Thanks

Although still a relatively new user i though i would aks the question of design. I view of the high cost ( not nescarily un deserved) of a spare wheel carrier and roak sliders, i have decided to build my own My thoughts are below please feel free to pull apart and tell me how it should be done!!!!!! I shall be knocking up drawings before fabrication and will post if anybody is interested, it probably won't cost to much to make mutiple pairs, in consideration of steel lengths, set up times etc, so could be scope for a cheap pair or two. Rock sliders first: I am concerned that in bouncy down a lane and knocking a bright new slider that apart from crakcing the paint work, the fact that it is held on by the bulkhead bolt and outriger could potentially lead to disaster, ( possible bolt snapping or outrigger and bulkhead bending a little) . Obviously this may require quite a knock but they do happen. Whilst at the rear end there is quite a overhang between the end end of the beam and outrigger, so support here is limited. For this reason i am proposing a bolting on the slider free of the exisiting fixings, and directly onto the chassis, bolts although not idea do allow you to remove easily when damaged etc, whilst with use of speader plates either side of chassis provide strength. material wise a 80*50mm box 3 or 4 mm thick for the beam and then channel 50*50*3 mm for the two supports then 5mm spreader plates for chasiss, bolting holes outside the channel section area for max moment resistance. Channel to beam to be welded together, channel passing through inner way to outside wall. (drawing would probably help here) Spare wheel carrier: No ones seems to use bronze bearings etc for rotation, just nipples for greasing steel contacts ( pin and bush) Possibly sintered. The curve at the wheel contatct point although pretty is hidden by the wheel mostly and so could be simplified to have stright sections and then a web for strength. Fixings onto rear cross member and then top of tub should be ok. use of spreader plates at top of tub as most tensile stress here. simple latch to keep open at bottom hinge. 40mm * 3mm tube, 3mm plate for ends. collars for rotation 60mm dia

I have been continuing my rebuild abiet a little slow and periodic With both front wheels off, if i A: rotate the drivers side hub, drive is immediately taken up and the prop rotates. B: rotate the passenger side hub then the prop roates a 1/16th approx of a turn and then stops with then drivers wheel then starting to rotate. C: roate the prop the drviers only side rotates. immediately Is this corect - ie all about the driver going to the shaft iwth least resistance? If so then are the resistances i'm seeing correct? Also if i rock the dirvers disk towards and away from me then i get a little movement: Am i right in thinking that this is liely to be the wheel bearing or possibly swivel pins ( or with my liuck both ) comments please

Being a tight sod i have decided to make my own brkae pipes, i have read the thread in the technical forum, but would just like to clarify something: I have a mixture of threads, 10mm and 3/8, which is not problem once identified, however does the physical flare you put on the pipe vary depending on what thread the fitting is? i would presume not as its the angle of the seat recieving the flare that matters and the dims of the clamping section at the end of the fitting. But would like someone to confirm who has had a little experince of this, as it's a relatively important part!!!! Cheers in advance. If anybody knows of a good quality seller of a flare kit that would be good as i have purchased and returned one of these cheap ones,

many thanks to you all in true style found both metric and imperial fittings on the brakes, so toying with the idea to replace all pipes to provide one system.

Hi guys and girls Coming to the ned of an exhaustive and painful rebuild many lesson learnt. Just a few last questions 1: Brakes don't seem very effective have rebleed several times and flushed through with fluid. Vacum assist all seem to be ok. Is this likely to be a master cylinder problem. 2: If major surgery on brakes was thinking of doing a job i should have done earlier and replace the brake pipes. what the best method for doing this. 1987 model so assume metric fittings, any ideas of cost of replacment pipes, quite fancy a crack at flaring etc myself so any hints on the best place to buy flare tool, pipe etc. woud be appreciated. 3: In a stationary position the front prop shaft can be turned about 1/3 turn before resitiance is felt, i assuem this is backlash in the trasfer box? Is this anything to worry about? 4: Axle breather banjo fitting where do you get them? Am running breather to top of snorkel any good trick (apart from buying the expensive header) to make the pipes from axles, Gearbox etc look neat? 5: Axle oil, hae filled up but in contrast to Haynes manual appear to only have drain plug and either one of filler or level, rather then the three they suggest should be there. i assuem that the higher plug acts as both filler/level? 6: any ideas on cheap sound proofing, have considered 8mm rubber inside footwells/seat box woudl cost around £40 gives that industrial look? any comments. 7: Have purchased a new speedo cable which seems to be the correct length, however the end appears to be round and the transfer box connection is a sqaure orifice. Is this right or any knowledge of correct part number? cheers guys

Dear All I'm new to posting, but have been reading the threads for a while now. Also new to the idea of paying someone to have the pleasure of working on the motor. Living in the Dartford area and wondered if anybody had any experience of a garage offering good standard workmanship at a reasonable price? many thanks in advance