[Caliper Banjo Bolt Tread?]

Whilst rebuilding the swivel ball on my 300tdi I've managed to lose the banjo bolt from where the brake line connects to the front caliper

I've got flexible brake lines fitted by David at Llama 4x4

Does anyone know the thread size of the banjo bolt? Will it be M10x1? I've tried calling David to ask but can't get through. Trying to confirm so I can buy a replacement, as at the moment it's stuck int the garage with no brakes

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Many thanks

Ade

[A-Frame Ball Joint Fulcrum Bracket Bolts]

Thanks for the replies

In the diagram linked, it's the nuts as item 19 I've completely stripped the threads out of. Bolts seem ok, but won't know until I try some new nuts

I've just come across this on the forum

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=83824

Same symptoms as me, but the replies then suggested it should be fine to 115nm

Thanks

Ade

[A-Frame Ball Joint Fulcrum Bracket Bolts]

I've replaced the ball joint on my rear A-frame today, but when tightening the 2x long bolts that hold the fulcrum bracket, I managed to strip the threads from the nuts

The haynes manual says that they should be torqued to 176nm, but striped the nuts trying to get to this. Can anyone confirm if this is correct?

Its now left me in another situation of not having any other 1/2" UNF nyloc nuts to replace them with. Does anyone know of any shops local to the West Lothian area that might stock them?

Many thanks

Ade

[Steering Wheel Diameter]

Does anyone know the diameter of the standard steering wheel from a 300tdi?

I'm sat at work so unable to measure it myself but would really help my search for a new smaller wheel

The one I'm looking at is 350mm, but unsure what thats like in comparison the original

Thanks

Ade

[Spring Lower Cups]

I'm needing to replace the lower spring cups on my 300tdi, but when trying to collate a list of new parts required including nuts and bolts, I cant seem to find if theres a nut and washer required beneath the cup?

The diagram on the misrocat shows bolt 7, and washer 8 above the cup, but nothing below

Can anyone please help?

Thank

Ade

[Problem after swivel rebuild]

Thanks for the replies

As said, my figures were from when carried out with the seal in place

If from you posts above that either 12-14 or 14-16 lbs are ok, should I expect to see greater resistance once the seal is fitted?

Also, how is the resistance lowered? With more shims I suppose but I used all the new ones received in the kit and threw away the old ones. Do I need to buy more?

It's was a Brit part kit used with timiken bearings

Everything fitted perfect and the job went straight forward enough

Thanks

[Problem after swivel rebuild]

yeah, measured with a spring gauge

With seal fitted it was measuring about 8kg/18lb, but as said, that was with all the 4no. new shims fitted and top pin torqued down to 75nm

[Problem after swivel rebuild]

I rebuilt the swivel housings on my 1996 300tdi yesterday with a new ball, bearings, seals, etc... but when testing the preload it seemed high? and this was with all the shims fitted

I carried on with the rebuild, but on completing I took it out for a test drive and noticed that the steering doesnt return back to center, the steering whould just continue in either left or right circles if you do not take the lock off yourself

Is this related to the swivel preload values big slightly high?

If it is, how do I get the preload lower? Was I meant to re-use the existing shims along with the 4no. new ones that came in the kit?

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Thanks

Ade

[300tdi Swivel Housing & CV Joint]

Yesterday, I went to work on rebuilding the swivel housing, and changing the CV joint on the front of my 300tdi, but cam across 2 problems

PROBLEM 1

The 2 countersunk torx screws which go through the damper plate and bootom swivel pin

http://s91.photobucket.com/user/R33Ade/media/swivelhousing.jpeg.html'>

These seem to be fairly rusted and stuck. Does anyone know what size torx head they have? as I was stuggling to get any to fit.

If I cant get them out, whats the next step? Is it possible to drill the head of the countersunb it allowing the removal of the damper and pin, giving good access to the bolt. Then maybe use the double nut method to remove the remainder of the bolt (are the bolts M8 thread?)

Once removed, it it best to get some identical bolts to replace, or does anyone recommend to just use normal hex head bolts?

PROBLEM 2

I have a non abs 1996 Discovery 1, and when looking on the copy of microcat I have, it list the part number needed as FTC3146, but upon searching the web it looks to have changed

In the rimmerbros website, it says the part number is now TDB500280, as per the link below:

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID009961

When it arrived, it looks like the photo below, which I would gues at being for an ABS model due to the teeth around the larger section, whereas my existing one is completley smooth

I this OK to use on my non ABS version? Or do I need to send back to get it exchanged?


Any help on my 2 problems would be greatly appreciated

MAny thanks

Ade

[300tdi Brakes Not Very Good]

I've not really got any further with this as yet

I was however reading the Haynes manual and tried to follow the test sequence detailed in there

With the engine not running, I pumped the brake pedal and after a few presses the pedal was hard, no movement

I then kept my foot on the pedal whilst starting the engine. The pedal then dropped slowly all the way to the floor

From reading the haynes it should of dropped but only slightly before holding. Mine didn't do this, so does this indicate a fault? And what to?

Thanks

Ade

[300tdi Speedo Stopped Working]

Jumped in the Disco this morning and the speedo needle started to jump about, and was erratic for a minute, and then just completely died

Went out again the car, but there is still no speedo, just sitting at zero

Rev counter is working perfectly normal

Is it looking like the speed sender has broken?

Its a 2.5 TD 1996 300tdi if that helps

Thanks

Ade

[300tdi Brakes Not Very Good]

I dont think its a bleeding problem, I've never encountered any problems since using the Ezee Bleed Kit

I'm also starting to think master cylinder, I might try overhauling that to see if theres any difference, as thats probaly also the cheaper option as well

The way the Ezee Bleed works, by pressuring the top of the reservoir pot with air, if the master cylinder is faulty, could this causing the hissing noise?

[300tdi Brakes Not Very Good]

Brake pedal is probably the opposite to feeling hard, it feels soft and spongy, and you have to put your foot right down to get it to brake

If you pump the pedal while braking its better

[300tdi Brakes Not Very Good]

No fluid loss

[300tdi Brakes Not Very Good]

Hi,

My brakes had started to feel useless, to the point where you were pressing the brake pedal right to floor just to get a bit braking going on

I needed stripped everything down to find the one rear caliper partly seized and the other not moving, so replaced both the rear calipers with new

Whilst there, I replaced all the wheel bearings, and also fitted new discs and pads all round

Bled the brakes using my ezi-bleed kit, and was a breeze as usual using this

Only thing I noticed is that when I connected the ezi-bleed to the master cylinder there is a hiss coming from the brake servo/master sylinder area?

Took the car out for a test drive; drives better and stops a bit better, but still not what you would expect.

Is there something else wrong? Anyone had any similar problems?

I'm thinking it may be servo or master sylinder related

Thanks

Adwe

[Can I spray standard wheel arches? does it work?]

I've had this done in the past, and I'm sure the bodyshop added an something to the paint, so that the paint would flex with the arch, where as normal paint would crack and peel when flexing

[300tdi Arch Liner]

I had to pull my front wing off this weekend to do some welding for the MOT

I've now got a problem as how to re-fix the arch liner (the plastic arch that fits between the outer and inner wings)

As soon as I removed the wing, the arch liner fell free from the wing; how is it meant to be attached?

It looks like it may of had a sort of spider rivet? Can I use a normal rivet? if so, what size

Then, with regards to the other side of the arch liner and attaching it to the inner arch. The plastic push in rivets I removed are all unusable. Do I need to buy some of the same to replace them, or is there something else I can use in there place

I have some of the rivets spare that are used along the plastic sills/rear tread plate; can I use them?

Any help would be greatly appreicated

Thanks

Ade

[300tdi Key Wont Turn In Ignition Barrel]

I've had a few problems recently where my key wont turn in the ignition barrel to start the engine. The key fits in the barrel perfectly, but sometimes just wont turn

Last night it took over 30mins of wiggling to get it to turn. Tried WD40 in the barrel, but to no help

I assume the only way to fix would be to change the barrel

But I then assume that this will leave me a different key for the ignition, and would have to keep the original key to operate the doors/fuel cap

Anyone else had this problem?

Thanks

Ade

[Bumper Dye]

I use this stuff:

Works really well

[200/300tdi Plastic Arches]

Has anyone ever fitted any plastic arches to there 200/300tdi?

I bought somw arches from Ebay to try and tidy up the exterior apperance of mine, but the instructions are useless

I received 6 arches to suit my 5 door, and a roll of rubber seal. And the instruction say that I need some adhesive thats not provided with the arches, and give a LR part code for it

Only thing, is the arches are hollow, so how do you bond them on the car? And where does the rubber seal go?

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Thanks

Ade

[300tdi Spare Wheel Nut Lock]

I came to remove the spare wheel from my 300tdi today, but after removing the cover I found that one of the nuts has a lock on it

I asume that there is a seperate key to undo this, but didn't come with the cae when I bought it

Has anyone ever removed one of these without a key or could advise the best way without destroying the wheel

Thanks

Ade

[300tdi Disco 1 Freestyle Alloys]

Thanks for all the help everyone, and putting my mind at ease

I've ordered 5 new 235/70/16 AT tyres today

[300tdi Disco 1 Freestyle Alloys]

If the tread of the tyre is significantly wider than the rim then the tyre will not handle as sharply and might wear at the shoulder, for the outright best handling around an inch narrower is best.

This rings true with the state of the mis-matched tyres on my Disco. THe outer edge of the tyres are badly worn compared to the inner and centre of the tyre. It would suggest that there has been too much flex in the side walls of the 255/265 tyres when say cornering due to the overhang dompered to the rim wheel width

Interestingly, I found the information below on the Bridgestone website when looking around at tyre sites

Looking at the freestyle alloys; they are 7" wide; so would a 205 tyre be better?

Does anyone else run 205/R16's on alloys rather than steel wheels?

Thanks

Ade

[300tdi Disco 1 Freestyle Alloys]

Freestyles always originally had 235/70R16 on these vehicles though the OEM fit varied - some were Michelin, others Goodyear and I think Pirelli put in an appearance for a while too

From memory (at work at the moment), but I think the spare is a brand new Scorpion 255/65 R16

It looks wide on the freestyle alloy wheel, but is the 255/65 OK? I dont want the car to feel vague on a wide tyre especially when it will be used for towing the horses

Its a shame with it being brand new - I was hoping that would be the correct size and then I could buy the rest to match it

[300tdi Disco 1 Freestyle Alloys]

The 300tdi Disco 1 that I bought seems to have diffent size tyres on each of the corners

Its fitted with the freestyle alloys (spare as well)

My question is, what size tyres should it have fitted?

Or, which size of tyres would be the most ideal for my needs?

The car is being repaired/restored to eventually be a tow car for the horses, so will see road use with the occassional muddy field

Thanks

Ade