dooroy
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Posts posted by dooroy
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Yesterday the fuel filter housing in the wheel arch of my 2001 Td5 began spraying out diesel - I was travelling at the time and luckily a friend was travelling behind me and rang to say there was 'water' streaming from under the Disco .
When I stopped I was amazed at the amount of diesel being sprayed around .
This morning I rang the main dlr and was told the cost of a new housing was €340 (£305) . I was shocked to put it mildly - they generously said the new part would come with a new filter attached - I had changed the filter only last week + the intank pump .
Do these housings fail often ?
I know parts are expensive here but even the storeman felt it was crazy .
Ordered one tonight from Britcar(UK) for £82 + carr.
Do the pipes themselves need attention or are there likely trouble spots I should keep an eye on ?
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Hi, have just bought a td5 disco with a dodgy clutch, it squeels when let out at high revs, im guessing this is the spigot bearing?? is this the likely cause? in the manual it says either take out the engine or the gear box any ideas which is easiest? Its a 99 is it still prone to the bolt falling out of the oil pump sproket? Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks
I replaced the clutch/flywheel in my 01 Td5 last summer . I took out the engine and did a few other jobs as well - even dropped the sump and Loctited the bolt in the oil pump .
In your case this would be very important as it was the early Td5's that seemed to suffer most from this problem .
I also changed the water pump , injector loom and slave cylinder ; and had the starter and alternator checked out and removed the EGR.
Taking the engine out is not too bad a job and the comfort of working on it once out makes the effort well worthwhile . All the work seemed so much easier due to the complete access .
I discovered the spigot bearing had broken up and used bearing fit on the new one as it was not a very tight fit in the crankshaft .
In my case the Disco developed a vibration due to failure of the dual mass flywheel .
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Great that you got it sorted - can be very annoying problem.
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When you consider that a side can stay up for a few days , then go down in an hour , then not go down again for a few days it would indicate that a leak can be sealed temporarily - and if you test it while its sealed then all will appear fine .
Leaks generally appear to occur where there are folds in the airbag - maybe if you have the suspension at its full height you will have access to all the bag . At normal height the lower part will be folded .
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As I said it can take a while to get it freed out the first time and you need to be able to direct the spray at both ends to free out the pivot points . Keep moving it through its full range of movement while spraying it after each movement .
Has it got stiff over time - it occurred to me that the spring to move it back down could have failed .
The few I have come across have always freed out though .
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You could spray something like WD40 up at either end of the 'handle' where it pivots and free it out this way .
You could also remove the Land Rover badge from the center of the housing to improve access .
I found that spraying up at either end always worked for me - might be hard to free out the first time but a regular spray after that should keep it free .
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I posted on here some time ago as my brother had a few scares with his 96 300 Tdi ES - someone posted to it again and you can see it on pg 2 or 3 .
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As far as I know the sides are independent of each other - it's possible that you need to change both as it stands to reason they would both wear out together .
When I bought my Disco the LH (nearside) one was replaced just the week I got it - the owner told me it was gone down every morning .
The drivers side (offside ) began to go down about a month after I got it . I carried on for a while and eventually replaced it . Have had no problem since .
They are easy enough to change - just see my earlier post re cutting the air feed pipe .
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My sister has a 98 300 Tdi and having spent a lot of time trying to get the 'upper'indicators to work I then discovered that the last of the 300 Tdi's didn't have these working from new . The wiring was there I think but the lenses didn't have indicators . I thought for a while that somone had fitted the wrong lenses .
I'm not sure at what point this change happened - maybe late 97 didn't have them either .
I had 2 96 300Tdi 's at various times aand they both had the same arrangement - indicators above and below and the trailer indicator flashed once each time an indicator was turned on . If I had a trailer connected it would continue to flash .
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When you turn on the indicators , the trailer light will flash once each time .
It will continue to flash only if you have a trailer hooked up .
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[if bulb holders are still there why not fit bulbs for the test ?
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I never tested mine with spray but at first it could be fine for a few days in a row including overnight parking etc - and then I'd park it and come back in an hour to find it had gone down .
Very intermittent and unpredictable . I noticed once that when I was trying to replace a light bulb and spent some time in and out of the boot with engine off it went down . You could try sitting in the boot for a few minutes with engine off and see if it goes down .
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Mine was going down intermittently for a while before I changed it . Sometimes stayed up for days , then could go down when parked for an hour . But always came up .
IF on any occasion its not inclined to inflate I found that driving back and forwards a few metres always got it to work .So I don't think you need worry about the bag giving up completely any time soon . But as bogmonster pointed out the compressor is working overtime - so don't leave it too long .
I live in Galway and asked the main dlr for a price - I think it €250 + VAT then .
I got mine from Paddocks in a few days - just over a €100 all in I think .
Fitting is easy - just cut the air pipe as close as possible to the old union and then just insert the end into the fitting on the new airbag.
I didn't know this at the time and screwed the old union out of the old airbag and into the new one . I read later that the union in the new bag is pressure tested so I was lucky I didn't have a leak afterwards . Hasn't gone down since .
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There is a part attached to the head which looks like a manifold but of course the manifold is on the other side . Seems to be a little coolant seeping from under this at one end .
Will see if I can find a pic of the engine and maybe identify this part .
Haven't managed to se the large diameter plug yet but will keep looking .
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I have a 2001 Td5 with 190K on the clock and it is losing a small amount of coolant .
When I look down behind the air con compressor there is a small area of damp near the base of the centrifugal filter housing .
But I wonder if the leak is coming from somewhere else as I can't see any anything at that point which would have coolant going through it ????
Any ideas /suggestions welcome .
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When I changed an airbag and suspension was not inclined to rise I drove back and forward over a piece of 3x2 wood or similar a few times and then it came up .
I came up with this plan because the old airbag used to go down intermittently and starting the engine had no effect - and I found that moving the Disco so that the rear wheels moved up and down worked every time . Hope it helps .
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Due to the way it fails intermittently he feels sure now that the fusebox is the problem in view of what the IDM controls .
He will try leaving the ignition on for a while tomorrow - could be lucky .
The main dlr has quoted €400 for a new fusebox - a car dismantler has 3 Td5's broken and reckons €100 but he doesn't know anything about how a SH one will have to be setup to work etc . or even will it work
Can a fusebox be transferred or will it have to be taken to a main dlr to be setup ?
Is a second hand unit a big risk - could it also be affected by damp ?
Thanks for all your help so far - Land Rovers are thin on the ground around here and so is information on them ; this forum is better than any manual .
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Thanks for replies - will pass them on .The D1 system was a bit different from the D2 but it is worth a try .
And yes bogmonster - when he took out the fusebox the first time it had a lot of moisture on it . And he did say that he couldn't get at all parts to dry / clean them properly . He also commented that as he put it ' it was no ordinary fusebox' in that it had quite a bit of circuitry and had like 2 plates close to each other with no apparent way of getting between them .
I'm afraid your description would indicate the fusebox is as you politely put it f***ed - and could cause expensive damage .
He's had the Disco for sale for quite a while during which time it gave no problems - now he has a customer anxious to buy and the Disco is playing hell
. Looks like a new fusebox would be his best option . -
Having problems contacting the Land - Rover - Parts - Shop.com.
Have sent 2 emails re failed pump but no reply so far .
Anyone know anything about them - I presume they are still operating ?
Any help appreciated .
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He took out the fusebox from under the dash again and took off plugs etc then put fusebox back and - EVERYTHING WORKED .
Key fob operated the central locking as it should and Disco started and ran perfectly . Did this a few times and then left it for a while .
When he tried again it was back to its old tricks - key fob wouldn't do anything , no start etc.
So it appears the fusebox and its connections are the problem -
(1) is there any particular spray etc. he could apply to improve the contacts ?
(2) anyone know which of the plugs on the fusebox has connections to immobiliser system etc so he could give those connections particular attention ?
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Got the pump from Land - Rover - Parts - Shop.com and on their site it's described as being made by Allmakes - not another name for Fuelparts I hope .
Have emailed them to see what's the story .
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I changed the fuel filter when I changed the pump in the engine bay - about a week after I had changed the in tank pump .
Not sure who the pump maker was - will have to look it up .
The fact that it is for priming explains the cut out after a time - so now I know that's OK .
Could the engine bay pump be damaged by operating when the tank one is out of action ?
Thanks for reply - will keep you posted .
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In November I changed the tank pump in my brother-in-laws 01 Td4 when it failed .
Less than a week later the pump in the engine bay failed and that was changed + new fuel filter .
All was well for a while - but yesterday it stopped again and it seems the tank pump has failed again .
(1) When checking the feed to the tank pump - having removed the plug from the engine bay pump - I find that feed to the tank pump (plug off) switches off after a certain length of time . Would this be correct ?
(2) has anyone experienced pump failure after such a short time ?
(3) I have the pump unit out at present - I suppose if it decides to work on the bench putting it back would be risky ?
Any ideas or opinions appreciated .
I got both pumps in from England as the main dlr prices here were crazy .
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Seeing this I'm not surprised the EKA didn't work on the few occasions we tried it . I had no idea that times etc were so critical - especially the 5 min wait before opening the door.
Thanks for the detailed explanation - it would take me a while to type that much .
. Looks like a new fusebox would be his best option .
fuel filter housing - split .
in Discovery Forum
Posted
Having examined it closely , but without taking off the wheel , I could see that the fuel was coming out well above the top of the filter .
I was also a bit puzzled as to why it should crack and on reading the replies of 3 experienced people like yourselves of not having come across this before it reinforced my doubts .So even though it was 1.30 a.m I decided to go out and check again - this time taking the wheel off. When I took the filter off I noticed that the outer seal seemed to stand too far above it's seating in the filter . Can you guess ???
When I checked the old filter I discovered the outer seal was missing !!! it had remained stuck to the housing - and I had wiped the sealing faces clean before fitting the new filter . The 2 seals seemed as one and had held for hundreds of miles .
I peeled them apart - refitted the filter and no more leak .
So a sincere thanks - especially since I got a reply from Britcar that they had sold the last of the housings at £82 and the new part no were about 3 times the price .
The last time this happened me was about 20 yrs ago when I fitted an oil filter and the old seal stayed in place - but on that occasion the problem showed up as soon as I started the engine .