[Big end shell size]

No the oil light goes out, but your right if the shells wore wrong i should lose oil pressure.

In my case the oil light came on after after 7 mls . Stopped and checked oil level . Restarted and got about 1 ml when light came on again . Took off the sump and straightened out a few dents thinking they could be causing oil starvation . Put everything back - went for a drive , same route - at almost the exact same spot oil light came on again .

Sump off again and this time found that the con rods were loose on the journals - could move them up and down .

I know it doesn't take much pressure to keep the light off - maybe in your case the oil pressure is just managing to do so . Though you would expect it to at least flicker at idle .

I only have the journal sizes for the 300 Tdi : 58.725 - 58.744mm and the regrind 58.47 - 58.48 .

If you could bring a shell into an engineering works they should be able to tell you what it is - in my own case the supplier , who I always found to be very reliable - was not sure what to make of the markings on the old shells which I brought in to him . This led to the mix up - he took them to be standard which they were not . In your case you don't have the old shells for comparison unfortunately .

[Big end shell size]

A few years ago I had a problem with a VW Golf dsl having fitted new big end shells - the oil light came on without fail after about 7 mls. When I gripped the end of the con rod with a large pliers I found there was noticeable play .

I then measured the thickness of the old shell and found it was thicker than the new one - went back to the supplier and he admitted making a mistake . Gave me a new set and problem solved .

Was wondering if your oil light has been coming on ?

[Td5 crankshaft pulley bolt - renew ?]

I'm changing the front oil seal on my 01 Td5 and would welcome opinions on whether or not the bolt holding the front pulley on the crankshaft should be renewed .

[Td5 spigot bearing .]

What i have done in the past and still do at work is to dot punch the whole of the outside of the bush, not so hard as to damage the inside of the bush and then fit it with loctite.

Lynall

Checked last night with a caliper and the OD of the bush is the same as the ID of the bore in the crankshaft i.e 27mm . So the bush slides in and out easily and would not last long in those circumstances .

Going to ask the supplier if the bush is the correct one for the engine and if so then Loctite and punch may be the only answer .

Thanks for replies .

[Td5 spigot bearing .]

I have the engine out of my 01 Td5 to renew flywheel , clutch etc .

I also found the release bearing in a bad state and the spigot bearing had split on its length . The new bearing is a loose fit in the end of the crankshaft and I feel it would spin with the gearbox shaft and soon be gone again .

I have seen but never had reason to use products to retain bearings in their housing etc . Would one of these be suitable to put in along with the spigot bearing to make it a tight fit ?

Any ideas/opinions appreciated .

[rusty power steering pipes - best treatment ?]

£25 ish would see two new complete flexi pipes (no cheap steel bits) crimped up to order from a local hydraulics shoppe, they won't rust then

Thanks for advice - reckon I'll go for cleaning , priming and painting . Pipes are in good condition , new ones are quite expensive and don't know of any place around who would make up pipes - and if I found one they would probably be expensive .

And as les said the sections under the clamps were probably the worst so a bit more attention to these points .

Due to their location getting to them again would involve rad out etc but would like to think there's a few more years in them .

[rusty power steering pipes - best treatment ?]

When changing the radiator on my 01 Td5 recently I noticed the 2 power steering pipes which run under the rad had alot of surface rust . As I was in a hurry I sanded them down until shiny - no bad pits etc. and coated them with grease .

I am now removing the engine to replace the clutch and wonder what would be the best treatment for the pipes while I have access to them - or should I replace them ?

Any ideas welcome .

[disco 2 air spring........occassional collapse?]

Would agree with ben - I had exactly the same problem on my 2001 Td5 .

When I bought it last Aug the offside airbag had just been replaced .

After a few months the other one began to go down at random - once a day , then OK for a week but it did become more frequent until almost every time I parked .

I changed the airbag 3 weeks ago ( got it from Paddocks ) and it has been fine since - so obviously there was a leak which was sealing itself depending on the position of the bag etc .

Also the compressor may suffer if the leak causes it to be working more or less constantly.

And having moved the Disco a short distance on a few occasions with the bag down made up my mind

[Td5 clutch change - is engine out a practical option ?]

My 2001 Td5 had a pronounced vibration when started yesterday morning which could also be felt through the clutch pedal in that the pedal was pulsing slightly . I think the dual mass is on it's way out as I can't think of anything else causing this problem .

I had a 300 Tdi up to last Aug and when the fork failed on that I removed the engine to do the clutch .

I have an engine crane and good floor to work on .

Would anyone on the forum have done this particular job by removing the engine ?

I imagine the Td5 has a lot more electronics/wiring etc and would be grateful for advice as to whether taking the engine out would be a practical way of doing clutch /rear seal etc . Do the Td5's need a new fork ?

If the box has to come out I will probably get someone with a 4 post ramp to do it .

Any advice or suggestions very welcome .