Mr Bean
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Posts posted by Mr Bean
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I just lowered the front part of the head lining out as it was just the front sunroof leaking. I had a perished seal around the sunroof to body and a snapped drain tube above the driver seat. I was surprised at how easy a job it was to do.
See this thread
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That's good to hear as when i repaired the drain tubes i took the initiative to re-seal the sunroof frame and the actual roof. Hopefully the combination of the two repairs will sort it for a few years to come.
I just wish the sun-roof was never fitted seeing as though as i have climate control it is never used.
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If it is, it backs up my point nicely.
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IMO the D3 / D4 does everything a little bit better than the D2 but at a lot more expense.
I went down the low mileage (40,000miles) face lifted D2 route when buying last year, excellent choice it was too!
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The sunroof is leaking because of a faulty seal, not because of a detached drain tube that'sonly there just to take any run-off if the sunroof is raised with water laying on top, that's why they are at the front only and you have a plastic strip on the leading edge of the glass to divert any water to the sides .
Sort the seals and you have sorted the leaks.
I did consider the option that should water be getting in there in the first place? But the seal between the glass and the frame is not leaking so which seal are you referring to?
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Well over the past few weeks i have been getting very wet everytime i have been out in the rain.
By very wet i mean i soaked!
The good lady has taken it twice to a local garage who said they cant find anything wrong! Thankfully they never charged anything.
So yesterday i finally got round to dropping the roof lining at the front to see if i could see anything. Well low and behold the drain pipe above the drivers seat had snapped off!
So i have found some plastic tube the right size kicking around in the shed and have glued it in and connected the drain pipe back together. During last night there was a proper storm and it has stayed totally dry!!!
But the question that i am asking is how does it snap off in the first place?
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Nothing.... Must be on the naughty list!
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Thanks for the reply. I also need the little angled brackets.
Do you know what the part number for those are?
Thanks
Trev
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Why MUST it have beam axles?
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In my opinion these are the best options.
1. Find a second hand door the same colour and fit. Cost £50 - £100
2. Find a second hand door any colour then repaint it. Cost £250 - £300
3. Supply a new door and paint as appropriate. Cost £500 - £750
Tell the insurance company nothing as it is an excuse to rob you next year!
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I too think that Discovery 3 platform would be a good place to start...Just put some round headlights on it so it looks Defenderish.
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Take it back to the dealer and DEMAND that it is fixed.
I mean you have spent around £20,000 and it doesn't work?
WTF...I would not be happy!
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I have the bonnet mounted spare wheel carrier fitted to my Series 3 but i have no bolts for it.
Does anyone know what the bolt is that i need?
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That BBC article does disprove the theory....
SNAKE OIL !!!
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Freelander was created to open up a new market and buyer type to the brand.
Evoque was created to open up a new market and buyer type to the brand.
The Defender already has a well established customer base but it is fairly small. So if you ditch (for example) 100k existing cutomers but create 200k new customers is that not a better "business" position?
Surely that makes the most business sense, remember they are in the market to make money...no other reason than that.
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Just spent £200 and everything fitted perfect... all were Bearmach parts not Britpart.
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Just a thought did it connect to the old style oil filler that the newer doesn't have?
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With the engine in and now just fitting the other parts I found this part and a little unsure of what it is.
I have a 5 bearing 2.25 petrol engine fitted with a Webber Carb.
I am reffering to the PCV valve
Where does the other end connect to?
What does it do?
Any clues?
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Where did you buy the Zenith from?
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Or buy a Webber?
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The sensor at the front near the thermostat is the choke warning switch. It just switches on when the engine is up to temp to bring on a light on the dash.The switch nearer the spark plugs is the correct one. This may have failed and needs replacing.Trev
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I guess no one knows....
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The issue is not with the tubes but with the nuts on the tube.
The 5 bearing engine i bought did not have one in it but when i thought i could use the old one, but that does not fit either.
So i bought a new tube and lock nut which is a similar diameter as the old one but a very coarse pitch, the old one was a very fine pitch.
I think i will have to do some measuring, i was just curious if someone knew what the two different threads are off the top of their head.
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I have finally got round to removing the old engine (fantastic hole in the side!!!) and fitting the 2.25 5 bearing engine i had.
I have found that this engine is also metric where the old one was imperial.
So i bought a new dipstick from paddocks which was labelled as metric but it doesn't fit, the old doesn't fit either!!!
Is there a third size of dipstick i need?
Any ideas guys?
Thanks
Trev
Water inside LED Indicators
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Some of us just like the look of the original items...