TheBeastie

This will sound silly but anyone got any tips about re-fitting a bumper since I have just spent 90 miserable minutes trying and failed! I got new captive nut block for both sides and can get one side to sit in nicely but the other side simply refuses to line up. The steering guard makes it all a tad harder too!! It may just be a case of needing patience and a handy swear box but I wondered if there were any recognised "expert" tips? I only wanted the original back on whilst the nearly new winch bumper is being sand blasted and then powder coated. Then I guess I will have exactly the same problem as before. Thanks and best wishes Malcy

Thanks for all comments - was tied up with other things today as first Sunday for yonks when weather was good so got propshafts greased, oils all checked, dodgy dipstick sorted and "new" winch bumper tested ready (plus drilled some mecessary holes) then off for blasting and coating. Will try and get time tomorrow to run tests with the engine running faster. Cannot recall make off top of my head but will try and post that too when I have new results. Engine starts pretty easily all the time.

Well the red light was off on the dash suggesting that the alternator was charging. It is only about two years old but then I guess that doesn't really mean too much.

Right. Now been out into howling wind and rain but have multi-meter readings off the battery posts - just in cabin LED light on. Engine off 12.48V. Tickover 13.2V. Tickover and sidelights on 12.8V. Tickover and dipped headlights on 12.25V. Tickover and full beam plus two spotlights 11.87V Suggests to me that battery is OK since mostly short drives recently and ofen in dark. To be honest I am not sure whether this all says alternator is OK or not but it certainly suggests that there is some corrosion somewhere inbetween the battery and the volt meter. Anyone able to shine a more intelligent light upon these readings for me?? Thanks Malcy

Thanks. I had been coming to conclusion that it was probably a wiring issue. So run a +ve and -ve 8A wire from battery direct to voltmeter and presumably still take the basic 12v supply off ignition feed (working from memory). Will also put multi-meter direct on battery too (done this before) for comparative purposes).

Fitted a VDO voltmeter a while back and come to conclusion it is reading about 1V below (probably need to upgrade wires), So running normal is around 13V, put on side lights drops to 12V, put on headlights and heater and it drops to about 11V. Have grown used to this and do not bother too much. Last couple of days though it has been dropping much further and last night with just side and head lights on it dropped below 10V on the meter. As soon as I turn lights off ,not whilst driving:-), it comes straight back up. I am pretty sure battery is ok since starts immediately, even with this morning's snow on ground. So does this imply alternator is not giving out the current that it ought to (in which case can I fix or is it new alternator) or could the voltage regulator be on the blink (in which case I presume swap in a new one) It is disconcerting driving with volt meter below 10V since even allowing for my suspected 1V error it is still pretty low and wonder if lights will all go out. Any thoughts or suggestions would be most helpful. Thanks and best wishes Malcy

As a follow up I was running the compressor off my spare RAYNET battery. I had replaced the fuse in the +ve line but on trying the battery with my radio this evening it has also clearly blown the fuse in the -ve line as well. Methinks time for a new compressor. I had thought the one I got was reasonable but clearly it is just a toy. Any recommendations for a new one for reasonable 4x4 use - so topping up tyres after off road etc. Happy to pay for a good one but prefer to avoid the ones that look like they have gold plated tanks

OK and thanks - will try starting and running then connecting hose. Suspect it is probably as CwazuWabbit suggests since remember re-inflating a set of tyres I had let down off road one time and think this was last time it was used. Hey Ho. One lives and learns but maybe I will be lucky this time!

Things happen in threes (hopefully not more!!) My tyre compressor (TMax) seems to keep blowing fuses as soon as it starts to inflate - runs ok if no load. Does this suggest the thing is pooped and I get a new one or is there something I could try and fix? Thanks Malcolm

All has gone brilliantly with wipers since replaced the motor about three years ago. Then on Tuesday the park seemed to stop working. Then on Thursday the intermittent seemed to run like the normal speed wipe with the exception that when you swiched off it seemed to almost park then head back for another quarter wipe (so blades end up at 1030h rather than 0900h. With the normal speed wipe the blades now stop exactly where you switch off (so you have to wait till 0900h then hit the stalk). This is workable but incovenient and (a) what goes next plus (b) something has clearly broken. Am not sure how to diagnose this. On the one hand it sounds like possibly an earth problem (seen lots of them) but could also be a switch going. Since it is quite awkward getting at everything behind the dash I wondered if anyone has any pointers to get me started. Thanks and best wishes Malcolm

Thanks guys. Now sorted. Tried filling the latch with WD40 but it still failed to catch so slackened off the two screws and made minor adjustments by trial and error and hey presto! I tried spraying in WD40 through the gaps where the catch enters the latch unit but had no wee tube to direct the spray. I guess this would have been better. Also sounds like a good idea to flush out before the really cold weather comes so may buy a new can WD40 since I can never manage to hang on to the red tubes!! Which would be better for re-lubricating? I have white lithium spray grease or silicone spray. Best wishes Malcolm

Seemed to lose locking capability on my passenger door. On close examination the striker plate has a sort of integral insert over the "pin" and this appears to have started to disintegrate so it presented a 3D landscape rather than a smooth surface to the latch. So I ordered two new genuine replacements (reckoned if passenger door plate was collapsing then the driver's side would soon anyway, and that for something used so often genuine might be worth the extra). New ones came and slightly different in that looks like a plastic insert that rolls over the pin - so perhaps less wear and tear. Tried it in the latch and seemed to work fine then fitted it but same problem. The door catches on the first level (i.e it holds it loosely shut) but does not properly close and hold the door tightly closed. I think it is reasonably secure but it should hold shut. Where do I go now??? New latches? Any thoughts most appreciated since ratchet straps are nice and secure but not passenger friendly Thanks

Just to say used an 11/16" socket and now had confidence to give it a bit more pressure. Once it "released" all was fine and dandy. It just needed the confidence to give it a bit more oomph. Thanks for the advice. Much appreciated

I am trying to remove the upper seatbelt fixing (goes into diagonal bracket) to fit a made up ply side panel before refitting the seatbelt. I need to template where the hole to let the bolt through has to go. It would seem to be not quite either 17mm or 11/16" since both have a bit of slip. It also appears to have been done up with loctite possibly 21 years to harden up. Can anyone advise precise spanner size and do I just put a scaffold tube on and put all my weight onto it? Would prefer not to wreck since although I intend to fit new seatbelts it will not be immediate. Any suggestions most appreciated. Thanks Malcy

Thanks for the continued input which has made (mostly) interesting reading. I am now wondering about the idea of putting steel bracket plate onto "roof rack" - it is 3 Thule roof bars with homebrew angle iron sides. I may go for slightly smaller signage but like the idea of it being out of easy reach. I am also thinking though of gluing plate to roof to take a PMR magmount I have acquired but think I will def use PU adhesive rather than gaffa tape after others' experiences. Shame I removed all my insulation from one side but hey! it is a Land Rover

Thanks for input guys. Not too encouraging since the whole idea was to get a fairly big and prominent Lothian 4x4 Response or Lothians RAYNET sign onto both sides of the vehicle to provide publicity and also clarity when attending events. The vehicle will not necessarily be static and the signs are too expensive to go billowing off in accordance with Nick's inverse cube rule (not heard of that one but do not doubt it! Certainly do not want steel on the outside, and equally do not want the signage on a permanent basis, so it looks perhaps like a non-starter. Also means the time spent stripping the Karrimat off the side walls was wasted :-) Back to the drawingboard but thank you gentlemen for saving me having two expensive signs flapping off going round the bypass!! Malcy

I want to be able to attach magnetic signage for my 4x4 Response group or for my RAYNET group (depending upon activity) to the sides of my Defender. The signs are about 615mm x 150mm. I have salvaged some old PC cases where the matrerial used is proper steel (and thus magnetic). My thinking is that if I put them powder coated side against the aluminium and fix them I should be OK on a corrosion front but how best to fix them? Do I just glue them, or should I use a sort of rubber sheet between. Alternatively would somehow using Velcro be better. Has anyone done anything like this before and if so then what seems to have worked best? I may also put some onto the roof so I can use a magmount for a PMR radio I have just got. Any ideas much appreciated. Thanks

Where does it all go to? I am having to top up significantly (5 pumps or so on OilSafe) every three or four weeks. No obvious major leak (but usual LR territory markings) so where is it going? I am stumped and want to try and sort but no idea where to start looking. Already carry engine oil and brake fluid. Perhaps I need to start carrying EP80/90 as well!! Thanks Malcolm

Can I ask how long you might expect a clutch master cylinder to last? I replaced mine following brake fluid trickling down the clutch pedal about 3 and a half years ago. After two years it abruptly failed and since need was urgent (and weather was awful) I got local LR specialist to replace it. I had wondered if I had done something wrong since 2 years did not seem right. I am now (18 months later) seeing the familiar sheen on the clutch pedal again so suspect total failure is not far away. Is this normal? If not then is there something else wrong in the clutch system causing it to happen? Would appreciate any advice here since somehow replacing clutch master cylinder does not feel it should be a normal regular maintenance task. Thanks Malcy

Thanks Ralph. Never thought of Accessories - tried chassis and electrics. One lives and learns!!

Hi Towbar electrics fubar and everything corroded shockingly (to be fair it is a lousy place to be down there on a permanent basis!!) so used angle grinder to get the nuts off the bracket that holds the 7 pin socket. Bracket itself not good but the socket I got with bracket attached no use for Defender since hole spacing too wide and holds the socket into the tie bar. Need original where hoe centres are about 60mm and the socket is held above the tie bar. Looked in the 110 parts manual but cannot find it. Anyone got any ideas what the number might be so I can get a new one? I suppose I might be able to make one but would prefer proper Thanks and best wishes Malcolm

OK, so routing pipe over from O/S looks OK. Presumably you had to create your own "entry" on the driver's wing. Did you just cut out a round section of the wing to take the pipe?

Decided the time has come for The Beastie to grow a snorkel but whilst finding lots of info I am now more confused than ever. Some say the 200tdi fittings are not as good as the 300tdi fittings so best to fit 300tdi (on driver's side) and then run pipe across to the airbox. Others suggest getting best possible brand but reading crits this does not necessarily guarantee happiness. It is not that I plan doing loads of wading, more that I want to have optimal resilience. It is probably also worth saying that the idea of doing machine work is almost certainly beyond me otherwise Southdown through the top of the wing does look very good option. I am not averse to the concept of DIY but strikes me a lot potentially at risk if you think it is watertight but isnt! Any suggestions would be really useful as I have been contemplating this for ages! Thanks and best wishes Malcolm

Did similar on an off road drive where passenger foot caught the key. Having fitted it myself never believed it would actually work! It does, however, and very effectively!!! Much head scratching, followed by hilarity, was created.

Thanks. I have just now ordered from LR Series. As you say a good price and I like them to boot. Far rather support "the community" than a random motor parts place Appreciate the tip. Malcy