TheBeastie

Sorry if this sounds stupid but I have been checking axle breathers. Rear one is fine in that I can blow through without issue but the front one is definitely blocked. I have tried blowing through with all my puff till cheeks red and ears popping but to no effect. What it the accepted next course of action? I presume replacement? If so presumably I get a new length of tubing (aquarium shop I guess) and then pull old length off banjo bolt, slip on new and run same route as the old breather - or is there a patented way of solving without bursting eardrums? Now need to try and find the crankcase breather tube Thanks.

Thanks, I did do a search but did not find that one. Looks quite a hefty job. As Les says it would have been better to do sooner - though I have no audible clunk so hopefully not too late! One lives and learns but mostly ... I reckon it will have to wait a while before I do it since it always takes me ages to (a) get all the parts together and (b) pluck up the nerve to tackle the job!

In my continuing maintenance orgy I have finally got round to topping up the swivel pin housings - spent half an hour looking for non-existent filler plug but that is another story! Having topped them up with EP80/90 there is a marked weeping from the bottom edge of the chrome ball, particularly on the driver's side, so I guess the seals have gone, or at least are almost gone. Is it a big job replacing them? Also would probably replace the housings too since they could never be termed bling - or does it all come as one? Any other things worth checking whilst I am at it and also any recommendations for parts makers?? Thanks as always Malcy

OK, that all sounds easy enough. Will head up to Halfords tomorrow and get kit. Also need to pick up a couple of litres of brake fluid since I only have enough for about two years worth of topping up.

OK Thanks. It must have come from a duff list ages ago - forgotten where. Will remove it from my list of (long) outstanding tasks to do

Another of the maintenance items I am trying to pick off is a note that says every 18,000 miles to renew the brake fluid. Any views on this? Presumably you loosen off a bleed nipple at each of the brakes in turn, pump a fair bit and keep it topped up with new fluid. Or is there a more scientific way to do it? Thanks Malcy

I am trying to work through all the maintenance bits I have never, for one reason or another, got round to. One item says to lubricate the rear suspension upper link. I presume this is the ball joint at the top of the A frame - but might be wrong. I have looked around and can see no grease nipple so guess I might well be looking in the wrong place (which is probably why it has never been ticked on my list :-) Can anyone point me in the right direction please? There are one or two other bits but will post separately since it may be less confusing. Thanks Malcy

Hi guys. Finally got to some testing. With engine off I am getting about 12.7 off the main battery. It did not seem to make too much difference between slow idle and fast idle (but perhaps I was impatient). The voltage steadily climbed to about 14.1V. In both cases it looks like the new dash voltmeter is reading a good 1v low so I am guessing it is time to have another look at the state of the dash wiring and run some new cables to it. At the end of the day I now know I am not looking at critical - I was running radio all day yesterday on RAYNET with full 25W on 2m Tx off second battery without any issue and the split charge got everything back up to full charge very quickly, so the fundamental charging system is working. So, unless someone points out something to the contrary, it is a job I will tackle on a quiet day (Ho Hum) Thanks for all the advice.

I am increasingly needing to have my satnav work with OS grid references (RAYNET and 4x4 Response stuff) and the TomTom Go that I have does not seem to. I have a pedestrian GPS that would do it but much neater to have two functions in one tool. I want to be able to key in an OS grid and it give me a route but also to show me grid references as going through forest roads etc. This latter particularly so that when needed I can say, with some certainty, I am at NT123456. Finding it very difficult looking at satnav specs to identify this functionality. Perhaps those who buy satnav do not know what a grid reference is?!? I do not want to go the computer mapping mode since find a lot of the satnav functionality very useful when on roads, and also have concerns about my ability to create a rugged enough system. - but do accept that longer term it may be a better solution to use satnav on road and GPS linked PC mapping off road. Am quite happy to transfer my existing to my wife's car and get new toy for The Beastie. Does anyone have any recommendations? Thanks - Malcy

Thanks guys for that. Gives me some sensible courses of action to follow. Hopefully by a process of elimination I may be able to narrow things down. The feed is the original one but I may well run a new dedicated wire and will also double check the earth. Western's chart for comparison voltages is useful. I think my alternator is original but will see if I can find some markings to give me a clue as to amp output. At least I now have a plan of action. Will try and report back as I progress.

I have now had my voltmeter fitted for a couple of months and wonder if anyone can advise its behaviour. When normal running with no load it shows a tad over 13 volts - but definitely not 13.5v. With headlights on it goes to about 12v. On Sunday towing radio mast home after being blown off site so headlights, radio, wipers flat out, heater flat out (desperately trying to warm up/dry out) it was showing under 12v. When I switch on but do not start it is showing me about 11v. I have got two new Odyssey PC1200 batteries with an X-Charge splitter. I am beginning to wonder if this is telling me that my alternator needs to be replaced/upgraded but would welcome advice. Thanks for any input Malcy

Thanks guys They were usual bolts. Nothing welded. Bought another pair of mole grips and tried PlusGas, left and hour then tried brute force again but either I am too much of a weakling that I couldn't shift or else they really were solid (I prefer the latter!) Junior hacksaw was the answer. Not as bad as I feared it might be. New section now nicely in place - no difference to noise levels of course, but at least it is neater. Hopefully will now be better prepared for replacing the middle section when it needs it - it was looking quite corroded near the end.

Continuing saga I am afraid. Almost got both the nuts off the connection between tail pipe and middle section. The end of the bolt is now level with the edge of the nut in both cases but they refuse to budge the final 5mm or so. I have not managed to round then in trying. Is there any alternative to angle grinder? I ask since it seems a bl00dy nasty place to be lying under the truck with an angle grinder going. Even my rudimentary awareness of Health & Safety gets upset! Frustrating to have got so close!!! Any suggestions that might help would be most appreciated. Meanwhile I have bright and shiny new tail part all ready to bolt on once I can get the final stump of the old bit off. I guess next week's job will be replacing the middle section :-)

Thanks for all advice. Got down to it today and removed the tail pipe and the silencer (which broke off last night). Ordered up new bit. Not nearly as difficult as I had imagined and as someone said, you actually have some room to work for once, even if it is all manky! Best wishes Malcy

Thanks. I have always been stumped by the fitters use of heat and welding stuff which I don't have. Am I likely to be able to get the joints undone etc? If the answer is yes then quite willing to have a go. The fact it is broken seems to make little difference to noise output but have been keeping drivers window open just in case of CO buildup!

The exit pipe came adrift on Saturday where it joins the rear (possibly only, have not had real chance to look) silencer. Have always gone to KwikFit for exhausts on other cars but thought worth asking opinions here first since LR are not their standard bread and butter. Any better suggestions? Thanks Malcy

OK, thanks And do they make much of a difference? OK, I know cannot leave him in sun etc but would it help give a circulation of fresh air?

Does anyone have any experience of fitting those rotating roof ventilators to back of a 90 hard top? Looking for ways of making life more comfortable for the dog when we are out no that we finally seem to have a summer coming our way?? Thanks Malcy

I know they are only marking territory but after years of gentle dripping The Beastie seems to have become incontinent and I have to do something about it. A simple question though? Is sorting this out (I suspect replacing all the seals) an easy home job for a very modestly competent mechanic or would I be better getting a quote for doing it from the garage that does my MOT and put a new chassis on a few years back? I do not have capability of lifting gearboxes or even raising the truck beyond axle stands and had a heck of a job getting leverage on some of the UJ bolts when I changed them. Thanks for any suggestions.All best wishes Malcy

Glad you got sorted. Always a bit of a relief when you find it isn't actually you that is wrong :-)

Hi Keith Mine is 1991 too but is RHD 200Tdi but cannot imagine that makes a difference. I bought the Difflock drainplug back in 2007 for similar reasons. At the time the Difflock reference was DRAI007. Fitted without any bother and has been a godsend! Is it possible they supplied the wrong one - it does happen. This is what is said on my confirmation email - remember it was 4/12/2007 though!! 1 x Land Rover 90, 110, 130 Defender Drainplug - DRAINDEF1 Options Selected - Land Rover Drainplugs: 200Tdi (DRAI007) Tax 17.50% Price Per Item - £16.98 Total Without Tax - £16.98 Total Including Tax - £19.95

Please ignore - have just realised I have ordered the wrong part - doh! They are for a Series. Anyone want a pair of these for free if they cover postage?

I have just got a pair of Britpart pedal rubbers (278166) to replace my worn out ones but am struggling to see how they work. They have four broad metal tabs (one perversely sticking up the way) and two narrow tabs. My last ones just slipped over the pedal (which was easy but they only lasted a couple of years) but these are much more substantial (which is good if I can work out how to fit them!) I presume the tabs fold under the pedal but why is one tab vertical since you generally use the ball of your foot on the pedal so it surely cannot be to stop your foot sliding off the top?? Very puzzling

Just received my Odessey battery and slightly thrown by the non-standard terminals. Do I need to get special adapters or simply screw what looks like am M6 bolt in to hold the various leads? Not sure what is best practice and the battery was too many beer tokens to risk damaging it :-) Also astonished by the size and now plan to get a second one since it will make life much more comfortable in my battery box! Any pointers would be most appreciated. Thanks

This may be an extension of my thread on choosing batteries - not sure. Anyway when running previously with, let's call it battery 1, as main battery and battery 2 as radio battery my voltmeter read about 13 amps but dipped when headlights, wipers and fans were on. This led me to think that the voltmeter was giving me a reading on the surplus output from the alternator. Today with battery number 2 as main, and no secondary (awaiting new one), the reading sat hard on 12v. This made me wonder whether the voltmeter is giving me the voltage across the two poles of the battery rather than looking at the charging voltage??? If so, then doesn't this suggest battery 2 is in poorer condition than battery one??? Sorry my understanding is so shaky but never really had any need to think about voltmeter so long as it sat over 12v. Can anyone enlighten me please?